Warrior193

Right, it sounds like you may have at least two, possibly three separate faults. I'd suggest that you need to find a good independent who will at least consider suggestions. 1 - probable faulty park/neutral switch: This will prevent starter motor from cranking the engine if the switch is falsely sensing the transmission isn't in park or neutral. 2 - Possible faulty crank or camshaft position sensor: This fault will allow the engine to crank normally - but typically results in failure of engine to start - or only after an extended cranking period. This fault is often reported be worse when the engine is up to temperature (start is often normal when engine is cold) 3 - Have all cable connections to starter motor checked, especially the chassis ground cable.

To clarify, when you experience this starting issue, does the starter motor simply fail to crank the engine?

The A/c compressor on your vehicle does not have an electric clutch, but is permanently driven by the aux. belt. There is a mechanical shear-plate connecting the compressor shaft to the pulley, check that it is still connected to the compressor. Yes, VCDS should give you data on the A/C.

I'm finding it a bit of a struggle to understand how a software update can eliminate a transmission noise - has it been explained to you what this noise is?

Welcome to the forum. I'd strongly suggest having the park/neutral position switch properly tested and/or replaced.

Get the starter battery load tested - at simplest, measure the battery voltage at the terminals with a meter while engine is being cranked-over on the starter. Did the vehicle suffer an impact around the time of the breakdown? Could the SS message you saw have been something like SS not available?

Could the noise be from the clutch slipping - does the Tacho rise in sync with the noise? I assume the 'until late 2013' is a typo and you meant 2023?

Welcome to the forum. You really need to have the vehicle scanned for recorded DTCs. Apart from that, get the battery load tested and have the ABS wheel sensors checked. Failing battery or ABS sensors are prime suspects for generating multiple fault codes. For the GPS errors, have the antenna tested.

By 'the 3rd one' (when removing the suspect coil packs) do you mean cylinder 1? I.e. the cylinder at the timing belt end of the engine. What were the DTCs recorded that the breakdown tech found? Very possibly failed spark plug/s. Hopefully replacing the plugs will fix it - check very carefully that none of the tips of the old plugs have detached and fallen inside the cylinder.

Ignoring the higher (60hz) frequency, achieving the same wattage at effectively 50% lower voltage requires a substantial increase in amperage - poor connections, understandable when you consider the type of connectors they use, significantly raises the risk.

Possibly fewer electrocutions with 110V - but from memory, many more electrical fires due to significantly higher current in circuits.

Welcome to the forum. Are these hub-bolts 'handed' - I.e. LH thread on the left hubs?

They're there alright! Some are so badly positioned they confuse Mk1 eyeball, let alone camera recognition.

With the Tesla's at least, a lot of those seemingly spurious brake indications will be regen braking when driver is backing-off the throttle.

There is usually a date stamp on the top face of the battery negative terminal, particularly if the battery is original. Format is WW/YY - so March 2016 would be something like 10/16.

Certainly would recommend a proper battery load test being done.

Unless I'm misunderstanding your latest comment, it is very unsafe to attempt to fuel with the engine running! which would mean ignition should always be switched-off before fuelling.

The only objects in the fuel filler pipe are the anti-syphon device and the emissions filter on the breather vent - those are purely passive.

I used to wildfowl on Lake Onoke and the Ruamahanga back in the 60s-70s. Fond memories of warming frozen fingers on the barrels!🤣

Was that 'mass cable' a sensor connection - which one?

Just avoid The Windy City during winter - unless you truly like horizontal rain! 😀

@Element7 Did you finally get the brakes bled ok?

Usually corrosion and/or 'road gunk' build-up around the caliper piston seals - which also serve to retract the pistons slightly when brake pressure is released.

Have you noticed any increase in the time the engine takes to start, especially from a hot start?

Welcome to the forum. That engine stalling sounds a lot like a clutch 'bite point' issue - have you noticed there to be a significant difference from the original clutch in the point where the engine revs starts to drop when you start to lift the clutch pedal? Have you tried 'slipping' the clutch a little more when moving off from standstill?