Warrior193

The transmission will be slipping the clutch - there is no extra low gear for 'creeping'

I would suggest taking a good look at the switch and the starter solenoid, very likely to let you down in the future.

Have you considered fitting hood gas struts to that lovely beast?

An Air-source heat pump in an EV is around 2 to 3 times more efficient than a standard A/C unit, resulting in lower battery drain.

Welcome to the forum. Check the flexible wiring connections between trunk lid and vehicle body, these can fatigue and break the connection.

Welcome to the forum. As glowplug number three is the only one incorporating a pressure sensor, that does stand out. Were you able to read absolute boost pressure?

Crumbs, the Land Cruiser must have had a hard life! - those things are practically bomb-proof!

It sounds as if you have made the best decision - plenty of genuine vehicles out there. Not important now and something I missed originally - did this vehicle have high-intensity (HID or LED) headlights? IIRC missing HL washers is very likely an MOT failure.

My guess would be Blind Spot Assist - green for all clear?

Sawtoothing of tyre treads or failing wheel bearing can be common causes of droning noises - as can loosening exhaust baffles. Does drone frequency change with vehicle or engine speed? Does it change depending on throttle setting?

I may have missed it, but is this a genuine private seller? An independent inspection would still be your best move - but if the asking price matches or is beneath vehicle status and condition and is acceptable to you, I guess worth a punt.

Not exactly what I was looking for, but maybe something like this below would work.

What you have is actually an automated manual gearbox - which, as you are finding, is very different to a TC transmission.

If in doubt, ask vendor if they would be happy for you to comission an independent engineers report on the vehicle.

That engine sound does not appear particularly unusual to me.

An issue with that case may be that it's an RFID shield - OP sounds to primarily use KESSY without physically taking key out of bag. I was thinking more along the lines of a small, hard plastic case.

It would appear to me that you need an upgraded oil cooler with thermostatic control to prevent overcooling on lighter loads.

I can see where this might be a problem with a crowded bag - the centre button sits a little proud from the upper and lower ones. As you rarely use the physical key, how about using a small plastic box to keep the key in?

I'd definitely suggest seriously considering the heat pump option - the gain in range from more efficient cabin heating/cooling must be worthwhile.

You won't find the 1.4 short on power - even with the older 140HP version. Check that the front assist radar sensor has been correctly recalibrated - cruise will be disabled if it hasn't. Upgrade from standard cruise to ACC may be expensive.

@JulianR Have you made any progress on your suspect parasitic current drain?

Do these speed limit warnings also display when you aren't towing?

Welcome to the forum. Two things to check first - Have the battery properly load tested. Carefully check all battery and alternator connections for tightness and freedom from any corrosion/oxidation.

Have you considered the likely issue of excessive headlight glare from reflectors that were not designed for leds? Over the past few years there has been an increasing problem with oncoming drivers being 'blinded' by excess headlight glare - I suspect that a lot of these instances are the result of illegal headlight conversion. In my experience, most of the current offenders are not high-riding SUVs. I hope that the current Government investigation results in tighter scrutiny of all vehicle lighting, particularly high-power headlight conversion beam spreads.

In that case, I'd guess you need to ask the vendor for advice. Good luck.