Alasdair1

You learn something new on here every day. For once they actually removed an antipolution device. Normally they add more as in dpf/gpf etc. and make the cars more complicated and less reliable/more to go wrong. If only they would remove the dpf and egr on diesels my cars would be a lot happier. Alasdair

I assumed all newer petrols had them as when I was looking for a purge valve for my sons mk1 1.2 and egr valves came up which surprised me also. (although that was autodoc so maybe only fitted in europe?) Going to have to look tomorrow when its light and warmer

I read that they have an egr valve and have seen some for sale but as its petrol will not be so bad at gunging up like diesels do. I may be wrong but worth checking. You could always put a bottle of cleaner in from time to time or the odd tank of superunleaded once in a while as it has more added cleaners. Alasdair

Not sure but definitly go for petrol not Diesel. My old 1.6tdi is struggling these days as I stopped long runs and now have to take it out about once a week for a good blast down the dual carriage way to get it to regen. Had an old volvo petrol that was fine for 3-5 mile trips for years but engine oil tended to get a bit emulsified after a while due to it never reaching full temp especially in winter. You could always as I do take it out for a longer run every week and as said a good blast down the dual carriageway wouldnt do any harm. I think that engine may have a GPF so may need a longer run to keep it clean and the same goes for the EGR. Alasdair

I use NGK in everything from strimmer/chainsaws to cars without any problems and have been using them for years. NGK have a plug finder https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/catalogues/cars/search/spark-plugs/ I personally avoid others especially unknown brands. Alasdair

I would be inclined to get it scanned to see what if anything major caused it. It should have stored a code. On my older diesels limp mode seems to just reduce power to engine and limits revs. Engine sounds and runs ok but if you go any higher than 2nd gear it doesnt have the power as they seem to be limited to about 1800rpm. Same in my sons petrol fabia. Too me a long time to get home the last time. The shaking of the engine could be a number of things so get it scannned. Alasdair

It may be the connector at rear of cluster thats needing cleaned or reseated. My old octavia had weird dash problems with random lights and guages not performing well. I removed cleaned and reseated and it came back to life. Check the cluster for dry solder joints while you have it removed and remember to disconnect battery before removal as imobilser can stick on. Alasdair

I agree plus I wait for at least 30min before touching them. Mate was very lucky he wasnt hurt when trying to remove one in his steering wheel. He was under dash at the time but if had been in seat would have been a different outcome. Alasdair

Did read that some aftermarket ABS sensors can be very slightly too long. Hope you have a box of use once hub nuts and get it sorted. Alasdair

Meant to add you could try turning airbag off via the switch in glovebox if the MK1 has one. Mine is off on the MK2 and passed MOT ok. Alasdair

Think the wiring for passenger airbag is behind glovebox. Yellow if I remember. The connectors are usually good but check the wiring there. You could try and reset and see as sometimes its a random blip. Alasdair

Remembered the company I got mine from. They may be able to help. eBayItems for sale by everyexhaustpartlimited | eBayShop eBay for great deals from everyexhaustpartlimited!

On the MK1 the cat and front pipe/flexi are seperate but you need a repair flexi with a slight angle at one end not straight. I did a vw FOX which may be similar to yours but the flexi is part of the cat with not enough pipe to clamp a repair to once old old one was cut off so needed welded unless you replace cat and flexi. Alasdair

When I use those strip connectors I have started to cover in silicone sealant, let set and then self amalgamating tape. Have been finding that some are copper plated steel and tend to rust pretty quickly. Glad you got it sorted Alasdair

Hi there wondering if anyone knows where to get a set of headlights for fabia mk1 2006 1.2htp cheaply. Ones fitted are very cloudy and reckon past using one of the polishing kits as they are now showing small cracks. MOT advise but reckon will fail next time and I doubt I can get replacement lenses as they seem glued on so looking for a cheap aftermarket set. Had a look on ebay but wary they may be just as bad. Found some on autodoc etc but for LHD cars. Any suggestioins welcome. Alasdair

Reckon if the ring is a better fit and clear of sensor I would fit it. It must be there to stop dirt etc. Wonder why it warped in the first place. I would first suspect a bad wheel bearing as they can heat up if there on there way out but as its newish doubt it. Make sure its spinning freely anyway with no signs of movement or grumbling. It could be a binding brake. Had one that after a long trip the whole hub was very very hot. Have also read that some cheaper aftermarket abs sensors are slightly longer and can cause problems. Hopefully its a one of Alasdair

My sons did the same but it was due to a build up of dirt behind 1 plastic shield other was missing. I assume a bearing had been replaced and they never bothered with a new one. I replaced sensors/bearings but couldnt get the plastic rings at time. I didnt bother fitting them its been fine for two years. Had to destroy old sensors to get them out as they were rusted solid. Alasdair

Quick google and the ohms reading accross the two wires of the same colour in sensor should be 4-10 ohms aprox. If theres zero or very low 1 or 2 the sensor heater has failed. Think the above is correct. Alasdair

I would put battery on charge first and get it fully charged. 12.3v is around 40-50% Check the strip fuses in engine bay near battery and check others again for secure connection. The strip fuses on my sons MK1 developed hairline cracks that were near impossible to see. Check as well vaccum hoses for damage etc including the brake servo pipe. His was split in two places at joins. If the above are ok then maybe o2 sensor. Think theres two but would check wiring and if ok change one after cat first. Not exactly sure how to test sensors if car wont start. Alasdair

I fitted a heavy duty Tow Trust towbar on my old MK2. Cheaper than some of the other makes but excellent quality and fairly easy to fit. They have a dealer locator so there may be a fitter near you. https://tow-trust.co.uk/find-a-dealer Alasdair

Check the wiring back from the crank/cam sensors including connectors for moisture/corosion. Think there should be 5v at sensors with ignition on. Read that near engine lifting eye and under battery tray are most common places or damage. Alasdair

Check they coded/cloned the new ECU/BCM and check fuses/relays for wipers/indicators etc. As said get a VCDS full scan done. It may ping something up that explains the fault. Modern cars are a nightmare. I spent about two hours working out why my wipers werent working on a Seat altea and finally discovered they are disabled with bonnet open for some weird reason. Alasdair

Looks better than new. Mine was the same although I admit I just oiled and moved it till everything was moving freely then added some copper grease as I had a tin handy. Nice tidy job Alasdair

I meant the control unit in the door thats part of window motor. If its from a different car it may not be able to communicate with new BCM. I assume the BCM was coded to match ECU/clocks etc. Reckon a good scan with VCDS is in order. You could spend days trying to locate a fault. Alasdair

Check gearbox oil level? and maybe recheck rear diff level as well and if you can haldex level. Were all four wheel bearings replaced? Alasdair