Alasdair1

On the 1.6tdi I think it depends what Gbox and if its start/stop. I always assumed mine was DMF but on checking it may not be. Alasdair

As warrior pointed out the excess oil will have been diluted by diesel. I personally would be inclined to get an oil change done as you don't know how much diesel was in oil or how much oil was removed. Surprised the garage didn't say something unless it was a small amount as I cars use oil not create it. Too much diesel can eventually lead to problems and worse case scenario it gets past the turbo seals and causes run on. Having the same problem with my mk2 1.6tdi. Used to do decent mileage but not any more. On mine it makes a slight noise during regen and revs at idle are around 1200. When it happens if I can I continue driving and take it for a decent blast in 3rd/4th to keep revs up until idle becomes normal (about 20mins). On mine a failed regen puts fans on when I turn of engine. Alasdair

On my old octavia one was very bad and reckoned it would snap. I used a small nozzle propane/map gas torch to give it some heat. Melted the old sensor but it was seized in anyway . I use a plumbers heat pads to protect surrounding area like cables and flexi hoses. Bit of heat then a spray of penetrating oil then repeat. Eventually got it out. Last thing you want is to snap one. Alasdair

I agree with them seizing. Had a few that were solid but managed to remove eventually. Find as well that if the bolt is seized so will the sensor. If I am replacing them I use a small smear of copper grease. Alasdair

Think its M6 x 16 torx Although they were allan/hex on my octavia but may not be original. Alasdair

Got some extra in case and it took 4.6 litres. Oil level seems fine at op temp but will double check in a day or two. Forgot that to get the filter out on the 1.6tdi you have to remove wiring and stainless pipe. Not the most ideal design. Old 1.9tdi plus my sons 1.2htp comes out no problem. I suppose thats designers versus mechanics again. Alasdair

I agree with Pete. 40k and 5 years as long as a decent make of belt and tensioner etc was used should be ok. Never had one rumble before plus if it disappears when clutch is pressed it points to clutch/DMF/gearbox/release bearing not belt as belt etc would still be turning when clutch is engaged or disengaged . I would run it and monitor the rumble. If it gets noticeably worse then more investigation may be needed. Depending on the style of driving previously it may be the clutch/flywheel/release bearing that's failing at that mileage Alasdair

Check the car socket to see what wire colour is on pin 3 which should be earth and normally white. If its white I would move it from terminal (a) on the trailer side of the bypass relay to the earth connection on bypass relay Alasdair

On yours there are seven wires going to trailer but white cable on a seven pin is usually earth number 3 from memory. As far as I know 7 pin sockets dont have reverse connection in uk. The way its wired up not sure where the trailer is getting earth from. If you need reverse you need to upgrade to 13 pin socket etc. Alasdair

Excellent news. Just finished fixing all the small problems on my 12 plate then noticed wiper wasn't working and hope to get MOT start of week. Have a working one on my old Octavia but don't have time to remove and fix to my current one as the car is used daily. Many thanks Alasdair

Maypole is the name of the company that made the one I got.

MOT time soon and rear wiper has failed. Just wondering if anyone knows for certain if its a fail if it doesn't work. Alasdair

Fitted a maypole one to my old Seat and no probs. Similar age of car plus can bus. If your getting 12v to relay then maybe check your getting a good earth. On the maypole one there is only a live feed and the earth is on the car side section of relay. Check the trailer socket wiring again especially earth as its fairly easy to trap insulation rather than copper cable. I would also check car socket with multimeter in case theres a problem with the trailer lights. Alasdair

Hi there cant find my manual so does anyone now off hand how much oil a 1.6tdi CAYC octavia takes. Have it in my head 4 litres but not sure if that includes filter etc. . I already have 4 litres of oil but dont want to start changing it in case I need extra as I would need car to go and get some. Alasdair

Think from memory you have to keep and hold key turned towards front and then rear of car when pressing lock/unlock buttons. Tried it on my Seat but didn't work as the transponder chip was bad. As a last resort maybe a chat with an autolock smith. They may be able to check system and perhaps delete imobilser for you to get you going again. I suspect though removing imobilser may be an insurance problem. Alasdair

Not sure exactly where in citigo. Read its above the fuse box but difficult to see. You could try resync the key. I think the citigo is different to fabia so not sure how. Did find this on Ai so ??? but worth a go Roll down the driver's window (to ensure you don’t get locked out). Manually lock the driver's door using the physical key blade. Turn the key toward the front of the car and press and hold the Unlock button on the fob for about 5–10 seconds. Turn the key toward the back of the car and press and hold the Lock button for 5–10 seconds. Take the key out, get into the vehicle, and insert it into the ignition. Turn the ignition to position 2 (dash lights on, but do not start the engine) for a few seconds, then turn it off. I assume that all fuses in engine bay including the strip fuses in front of battery are all good. Not sure what else to try Alasdair.

Not sure on the citigo but might be BCM related? If its failing/corosion then it could put on imobilzer as I believe that the imobilzer/security systems use BCM for imobilzer Alasdair

My SEAT dealer wanted £100 plus vat to plug it in with no guarantee they could fix it. Plus if it needed an ECU and reprogramming reckon would cost more than the car was worth so told them not to bother plus the AA had scanned it previously and no codes but got as far as imobilser problem but couldnt access it either so I got it recovered home. As said once battery was flat and it was left for a few months it seemed to cure itself. Alasdair

Not sure but maybe the old EGR was faulty and the new one may need programmed/settings? Think you can use VCDS to get car to perform it. Pulled this from Ai so may be wrong but worth a try, How to Program the New EGR (Using VCDS/VAG-COM) You can easily complete this using VAG diagnostic tools like VCDS. [1, 2] Prerequisites: Ensure the ignition is ON, the engine is OFF, and battery voltage is above \(12.5\text{ V}\). Go to [01 - Engine]. Go to [Meas. Blocks - 08] and select Group 074. Click [Go!]. Select [Switch to Basic Settings]. Wait for the adaptation status in the 4th box to change from "Run" to ADP OK. Once successful, return to measuring blocks and exit the controller. [1]

If SAFE is displayed then I reckon imobiliser is stuck on. Had same problem with old SEAT as I used a bad key fob which I assume transponder chip had given up. Couldn't get imobilser to go off afterwards even with good key. Seat garage said they may have to reprogramme ECU/imobilser at quite a cost as codes etc would have to come from SEATEurope and maybe a new ECU. I ended up getting another car and left old Seat in my carpark. Eventually battery went flat and when I charged it up to try it again it worked for some unnown reason. Maybe disconnect battery for a longer time (overnight or more) and see if it helps. Also check any fuses related to security etc. You could also try and resync key fob with car. Also try key in ignition and turn till dash lights are on but dont crank and leave for 15-20 mins. This can sometimes resync key with imobilser. Alasdair

Fair comment Pete. Cant do any harm though. Alasdair

You could try a tank of supreme diesel and some additive like wyns or forte egr cleaner. It may help. Alasdair

Years ago I blanked mine on my old toyota and had no problems without any ecu adaptation. Not sure if its possible with skoda engines/ecu unless theres a software change in the ECU. On my 1.9tdi bxe its on the top of the engine at rear . Still not brilliant access to get at securing bolts but doable. I take it on the 2.0tdi its hidden somewhere. Alasdair

Could be failing diaphram but more likely gunged up with oily gunk. My 1.9tdi had EML on/limo mode and fault code for EGR. When I took it off there was so much black gunk it was stuck solid. Cleaned it and no more problems. On the 1.9tdi there is an EGR cooler with another plastic vacuum operated valve. Not sure on the 2.0tdi but on my old Seat with same engine had same code for bad EGR but it was the plastic one on the EGR cooler that was causing code as it was sticking. From memory insufficient EGR flow. Alasdair