Alasdair1

On my 1.9tdi it was the same. You had to loosen pulley slightly to get timing just spot on. When I used the locking tools and then rotated engine once belt was fitted it was just slightly out after a complete turn and I couldnt get locking pin back in again without loosening pulley. It only moved about 1mm but that was enough to line everything up. If it was a sensor then I am sure a code would have been stored. Not sure re driving but its probably only slightly out so may be ok. Personally I wouldnt if possible until you get it checked in case its the tensioner/belt thats been wrongly fitted. Alasdair

It may be that the oil is low or getting past it and has become too thin allowing a bit of chatter in the Box. Worth checking oil level anyway and maybe change it next service. Not sure what the gearbox oil change interval is if there is one. Alasdair

Many thanks. Going for the larger one as it will fit the battery tray. Reckon he could do with the extra power. Alasdair

Folks old mk1 fabia was the same. Alarm would go off randomly probably due to failing siren battery. My local garage disabled it but not sure how. With yours being newer may need VCDS to disable it. You could try removing fuse for alarm but knowing skoda it probably is connected to other systems. Read on here that its fuse 54 15amp but it may be different on yours. Alasdair

Could be a worn clutch release bearing although I would have thought it would be there all the time. Might be worth getting oil level in Gbox checked if its possible on your Gear box. Alasdair

I think its the switch on the drivers door pillar below where seatbelt is. It disables the interior sensors so you can leave a dog etc in car. Alasdair

Check that when the clutch was replaced they fitted a new slave cylinder. I generally fit a new one as if it goes then its back to square one re clutch. Just wondering if the seals are failing and its not operating clutch fully. (same can happen with master when they allow fluid past seals. You could also try double declutch ie in 1st clutch down then into neutral then clutch up then clutch down and into 2nd. May have to blip throttle. If the gears drop into place then it may be 1st/2nd syncro going in Gbox.

If you keep getting P3138 I think its related to flaps in air intake/throttle body. They could be sticking or perhap failing or wiring fault. It may be the reason for the P0642 as I think its on the same circuit. Might be worth cleaning throttle body in case its carbon up. Try and unplug throttle body and remove P0642 and see if it comes back again. Alasdair

Mine on my octavia is on the label in the boot near the spare wheel. Sometimes theres one stuck in the hand book for the car as well but in my Seat the paint code is missing from the label as is my sons fabia. Saying that there are a few others missing in my Octavia like brakes etc. Have always wondered why they bother with PR codes if they dont put all of them on the sticker. Alasdair

Had exactly the same with Michelin on my Seat altea. 80% tread but two had deformed and caused a major wobble felt through your seat plus signs of cracking between tread. No bulges but had an almost twist in the tyre. Tyre guy said he sees it a lot with Michelin considering there not the cheapest. They had never been repaired and were on the rear with no kerb damage etc. We agreed that best course of action was to dump them and fit 4 new as if two had gone the other two wouldnt be long. Last thing you need is a blow out. Made me look at my trailer tyres. 90% tread but loads of cracking as well. It was an expensive week. Alasdair

I find as well that cheaper tyres seem to lose their traction after about a year even with good tread depth. Rubber if it is actually rubber goes hard before tyres even half worn. They are also prone to cracking etc. Have a set of old school dunlop on an old car. They must be at least 20 years old and no visible cracking and they still hold air. Alasdair

I agree with the stoping distance. Some are as previously said shocking. Guy at our local tyre service told me that on budget and some lower priced mid range tyres its the manufacturer that states the tyre data so can be listed as better than they actually are. I found out when I fitted budget tyres to get car through MOT. Brand new and first wet roundabout went straight on instead of turning. (wasnt going that fast at all) Took them back and he fitted mid range GT radial with no probs so far. Kept the cheap ones as spares. Dont buy Comforser!! Alasdair

Is your coolant level ok. It may be a faiing waterpump or perhaps an airlock thats cleared itself or as simple as a sticking thermostat. I agree with changing sensor anyway and would monitor it and keep an eye on coolant. Alasdair

Many thanks. Tayna battery came up with 012 but some others came up with 063 which is slightly shorter. Similar Ah and cca. Will double check height when son gets back from work. Reckon he could do with a more powerful one as he has the usual amount of gadgets in car plus its damn cold here so hard on battery. One thats fitted is ok but a bit small and struggles on cold mornings plus at moment hes only doing very short runs so probably not getting fully charged. Alasdair

If its a use once nut 12 point then its 50Nm plus 45 degrees. (thats for the MK1 but think the MK2 is the same) It must be tightened with wheel off the ground.

Not sure but another quick point is disconnect battery while checking voltage before starting. just in case there is a drain somewhere. If it still reads under 12 and wont charge up any higher then I would get a new one. Alasdair

Sounds like the battery is failing. The turning may be coincidence or perhaps the power steering uses more power turning right? and the voltage has dropped too low for the electronics in car. I would try a different known good battery or a new one.

timing at 75k should still be ok unless its more than 5 years as long as they fitted a decent quality kit. Any decent garage would be able to look at it/check it for you and may be able to help. My old one that I used to use regularly before they retired didnt mind if you popped in to let them hear any problems especially if you took biscuits/cakes Alasdair

If the battery is 11.3 volts its either very low and needing charged or failed. Depending on how old it is it might need replacing if it wont charge up fully. With the car running are you getting 13.7-14.7 volts as it may be the alternator thats not charging rather than a failed battery. Alasdair

Could be as simple as a failing battery or bad earth/wiring fault/fuse/relay problem somewhere but you will need to get it scanned to see if it stored any fault codes to hopefully pin point the problem. Check that the battery is good and reading at least 12.4volts engine off and is actually charging 13.7-14.7volts when engine running. Check battery terminals etc and earths for corosion as well as fuses/relays for looseness or corosion as well. As said difficult/impossible to tell until its been scanned. Alasdair

Shouldnt work with ignition off and key removed. Maybe a stuck relay if it uses one or bad switch. Not sure which relay does wipers. Had a look online but couldnt find out any info. Alasdair

Hi I am trying to find out whats the correct battery for my sons 06 plate mk1 fabia 1.2htp. The one fitted has failed but doesnt match up with any online so I assume the previous owner fitted a different one. I have fitted a spare battery but its old and looks too small plus gone flat a couple of times. I have come up with an 012 but not sure. Alasdair

Found this list but not sure if its the same on your car. Reccomendation is to unplug each individually with ignition off and then switch on and check if code is gone. The sensor that removes code is likely to be the problem or wiring to it. Not sure if it helps but worth a try. Check for dirt/moisture in connectors Manifold Pressure/Boost Sensor (G31) Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Position Sensor (G336) Low Pressure Fuel Sensor (G410) Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor (often on this circuit) Throttle Position Sensor

I am trying to learn vcds as well. According to rosstech the p0642 is low voltage to a number of sensors but p3138 is intake manifold control which I think is one of the sensors. Check the wiring from ECU to inlet manifold for damage or corosion/looseness at terminals. Read common places for damaged wires are (taken from AI) Common culprits are shorts to ground from wiring/connectors (especially near turbo/intake/thermostat housing), a failing sensor (MAP, Boost, Fuel Rail Pressure, Throttle Position) Havent got VCDS yet but its on my list. Mate has just got it and is learning too. Alasdair

The radio is a weird one but I have read on here a couple of ttimes that some aftermarket radios were stopping OBD2 conecting to car. Doesnt make sense but at least you got it calibrated. Think someone mentioned it interfering with canbus but thats way above my level. Can you get a hub ring or is it a compete bearing? Alasdair