Breezy_Pete

Sorry, a very important message came in just as I was about to upload image!

Item 14 is the oil pump. Appears to require cam belt, crank sprocket and sump removal to change. Bet there's nothing wrong with it though. Do you know if the oil separator on the back of the engine block has ever been inspected or changed? That has an impact on oil quality when blocked up, which is why the strainer on my Polo there was blocked, I expect.

No, but it's up at the cambelt end. The only pic I can find shows only the middle area. I'll try to find a diagram for you.

This thread may be helpful to you if it's a 16-valve engine with manual transmission, and has the alloy sump type. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/481220-oil-pick-up-1416v Not a very nice job to do on the driveway. Be very careful after the sump is off, not to headbutt the end of the dipstick tube. I did and it hurt a lot! Could have been very nasty in an eye socket. Exhaust has to be dropped down out of the way on this sump type. Not sure if it is also the case for steel sump version, or automatic transmission.

Yes, it's probably the strainer then. Is it manual or automatic transmission?

Have you looked at the oil pressure switch. Can leak oil through the connector when it fails, easy to see if you just disconnect it and see if it's oily inside?

Also find and fix the exhaust leak!

Your VIN calls for 6Y0 823 737B, which was available until recently, so some places may still have stock. Dropped from sale at Skoda in August last year.

If it is not there, get one from a scrapyard. One version appears to be available new from Skoda still - 6Y0 823 723 A Not sure if that is the correct one for your car or not, if you tell me the VIN I can check.

You should have this:

Can you post a photo of your engine bay? There is a rubber seal that goes along the top of the 'water box' (the section below the windscreen wipers), and all the way around the engine bay, to seal against the underside of the bonnet. This should keep any leaked exhaust gases from entering the ventilation system inlet (which is inside the water box). This is quite a dangerous situation. If the leak is upstream of the catalytic converter (like at the head/manifold junction) you could be breathing carbon monoxide (CO) which can make you fall asleep and die.

Any of #57 - #66 inclusive, where there is a fuse fitted.

Browse here to find the part numbers of what you require. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/697/8 May be able to order from them too.

Hello Michael, thanks for getting in touch. I'll be glad to help with this, and will send you a Private Message in a minute. 👍

Is anti Islamophobia really a thing?

It is a CUNA engine, car was built 24/02/16. Part number of after-cat sensor is 04L 906 262. Is that what was fitted as the replacement? Or aftermarket equivalent? Your oxygen sensor wiring is as shown here G130/Z29 seems like the one you need to focus on. The red wires are both fed by fuse 8 in the engine bay fusebox (10 Amp). The black/white wire going off the top of page will not be relevant.

Within erWin, when logged in:- Go to Individual vehicle info tab, select repair info, then model, then circuit diagrams. There may be more than one huge pdf of circuit diagrams depending on year. When you have paid your 'flat rate' they will have download buttons. Save somewhere safe, then, use ctrl-F within them to find specific functions. Or the index/menu drop down on the left.

Secondhand genuine from ebay. Photo of perceived problem?

Measure either side of the fuse that connects alternator to battery. First one of the strip fuses above battery, usually.

Fling your VIN my way and I can tell you which rad part number you have.

Hope the mating connector in the loom is OK?

@mczakk PM incoming in a minute.

I'm seeing signs of availability (on partslink24) on kits suited to Roomies built on or after 28/05/2012, is the one you're looking at a 12-reg or 62? If the latter there's a decent chance it was built after that date. Sorry, but cross-checking those part numbers against what's on offer at LLL parts suggests they're gone too. ☹️ Have you @Rheumy got an image of the connector involved? May well be able to still buy that?

Hmm, how many connectors, pins, wires...?