Breezy_Pete

Often just that the winder handle has got knocked and windows not fully shut.

They're very competent liars.

Look up 'vw connector removal' on YouTube. There's a knack involving a push, rather than pull, prior to releasing latch.

There's very likely to be a part number on that connector. If you put that number into ebay search box, with a little bit of luck you'll get hits that include such a connector with short wire tails hanging out of it. Then you can join to existing wires well away from connector plastic.

Nice to get oil ash volume and mass on the same screen, enabling conversion between the two numbers. 👍 Oil ash volume (litres) = oil ash mass (g) /431 from those two numbers.

See if fuses 1-5 also have no 12V with ignition on. Could you bung your VIN in a PM so I can find exact car build date, and so the most appropriate wiring data, please?

Try with ignition switched on, I think the cabin one is switched, engine bay one permanent 12V.

I would have thought you'd be within your rights to demand that they deliver it to a fully equipped dealership that can fix the bloody thing!

VCDS would be my first action. Injectors are one of many problem areas on these engines, I've read.

Scan of ABS module should tell you a fault code that goes with the warning light.

See if there's 5V at pin 1 (red/green wire) of the cam sensor connector with ignition on. EGR, MAP sensor and cam sensor all use this 5V supply. TB also has a 5V feed to the position pots, but not sure if it's the same rail. Purple/red on pin 2 of the TB conn.

Have you looked at the cabin fusebox to make sure no fuses have shaken themselves loose/out?

Soot = carbon

1, 2, 3 left to right as viewed from front bumper looking into engine bay.

Check under-bonnet fuse 24 (5 Amp) and cabin fuse 6, also 5 Amp, both are supplies to the databus diagnostic interface.

triplesquaretable.pdf

Extremely unlikely on the last point, I think.

XZN. Can get the nominal size by measurement and reference to this chart: triplesquaretable.pdf

Yes, lock module is dumb, just a dc electric motor, a few microswitches and resistors. Key barrel is separate and unaffected. Did you keep the old door loom after replacement, by any chance?

I'd be happy to have a look at it, but have no experience of engine ECU repair.

Is that 3.4V with the connector not plugged into the coilpack? If so I tend to agree. First step - maybe - look for water ingress in connector(s). Then if no telltale corrosion found, see if anything has got inside the ECU's case.

May be able to find it if you PM me your VIN.

Not tried it myself Graham, but this popped up on a quick googlage Car CO2 and NOx emissions data (fleetnews.co.uk)

Right, nice one, your engine code is AZJ. Brown on pin 1 of coilpack connector is earth, black/lilac on pin 6 is the switched 12V feed, live when fuel pump relay is energised (e.g. engine running). Pins 2, 3, 4 and 5 go to engine ECU pins 102, 95, 103 and 94 respectively. These will be pulsed earth (or positive) triggers, I think, for each cylinder's coil driver, energising spark plugs no.1, 2 ,3 and 4.

Possible but harder I think. the grey/white wire originates at fuse 37, the black blue at a junction of of two other wires, one going to reversing switch on gearbox, t'other to BCM pin 48 of the white 73=way connector. Not sure how close/far they are apart on a RHD mk2.