Breezy_Pete

Interesting. Claimed compatibility doesn't include Roomster, according to this page: Throttle Body Pierburg 03F133062B Difference may be too subtle to matter. Well done for getting something that works anyway. 🙂

Yes they do.

This I think. Two options shown, single and dual speed fan. Fuse 8 in battery fusebox is a standard blade fuse hiding beneath a cover to the right of the strip fuses. Failure of first/low speed function of fan is common; internal resistor burns out.

Can you remember what colour(s) this wire is? There's a lilac/yellow wire that comes from front passenger side module to rear one on same side, which is the data line telling rear what to do. Fuses that power the rear motor modules do both sides, so if other side is working OK, so must they be. Could be worth checking wires going into rear door though, in case any breakages are apparent there.

I have stock of the relay; I'll start a private conversation with you to discuss the options. 🙂

Reply copied from your other, edited thread: "Early mk2 BCM (pre March 2010) is much the same as mk1 version but with a different relay type in the suffix-F BCMs to the previous versions. The relay is soldered into the BCM, as shown in this post, which is going to be the same version as yours, I believe: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/473170-wiper-relay-replacement/#findComment-5806937 You can bypass the relay for test purposes by linking a couple of the wires on the relevant connector. If you read that whole thread, I think it may be described in there somewhere. Whereabouts are you? I would be able to repair for you if helpful."

Edit: Welcome. Reply about wiper problem moved from here to your dedicated post.

This catalogue tends to be quite handy: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/en/catalogs They also sell genuine bits, but delivery can be slow.

These, I think https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5j0819055a-clip-skoda-22467.html Any dealership parts department should be able to order for you. Some may be reluctant due to low cost.

There's a little nipple-like feature that can be seen if you look into the fuel filler neck with the cap unscrewed. This is supposed to only be pushed in by the fuel cap as it's screwed back on; but it is possible to accidentally or deliberately push it with the petrol pump nozzle while filling. It's particularly easy to do this accidentally if filling with the pump on the wrong side of the car, where the nozzle may go in off-straight due to sideways pull on the pump hose. The vent valve actuated by pushing the nipple is supposed to only connect the air space above the fuel level to the carbon canister when the cap is on, tank sealed. However, if pressed and held down while filling, you can inadvertently fill this planned air space and the carbon canister with liquid fuel instead of vapour. The canister is not designed to cope with this. This may be what has happened and is causing your problem. Removing and emptying the canister may help, I guess. I seem to remember reading about at least one person successfully doing that.

No idea on value. What year is it and whereabouts are you based?

3mm length difference, 0.27%, no problem.

Not sure how it could happen, to be honest. I guess there would have to be a one-way valve somewhere that isn't working. Not sure if the purge valve itself has any reverse flow prevention in its design.

First video looks like a lot of positive pressure. Malfunction in the EVAP system I think. Any recent work done on the engine?

Just realised that group 31 is lambda nominal value, not voltage, in the table for AZQ engine. Group 33 is showing voltage;( for AZQ, the 1.5V I had remembered).

I looked back at the workshop info, and 1V could be correct if you are looking at measuring group 31, (red ringed info) or 1.5V could be correct if you are in group 33 (blue ringed numbers). Perhaps you looked at 33 before the sensor change, and 31 after? Note 15 is for AZQ engine code. Please check again the numbers in groups 31 and 33, with engine fully warmed up. There may be another cause for the over-fuelling. Is the coolant temperature sensor original? What coolant temperature does VCDS show when engine is fully warmed up?

Did you keep the old sensor after you fitted the new Bosch one, or did you throw it away? What Bosch part number was used?

Have you still got the removed O2 sensor? From memory, for this wideband sensor with this ECU, 1.5V steady is correct. Have you checked basic things like spark plug condition?

I would see if you can find a secondhand throttle body on ebay with a perfectly matching part number to the original. Get someone to fit it and adapt the ECU to it (I would gladly do that for you) and probably only spend about £100 total to find out if that fixes it. TBs are usually pretty reliable so most secondhand ones are probably fine.

Have you checked the spark plugs?

Yes, I was expecting you to find that. That bearing couldn't get to that position if its spring was fully intact.

Have you compared the height of the car left and right front? Top mounts and bearings are often damaged or dislodged as a result of spring breakage and the remaining part's jagged edges digging into stuff.

Cabin and under-bonnet fuse locations? I can't access circuits before this evening unfortunately.

Suggests a blown fuse, have you checked relevant one(s)?

Roughly speaking a litre of petrol or diesel combusted in an engine results in a litre of liquid water being created. Mostly this remains in vapour phase and exits the exhaust unnoticed, but in cold ambient conditions and if the whole exhaust system doesn't get hot regularly, it becomes apparent as condensed liquid water.