Breezy_Pete

Yep. Brim to brim with zeroing of trip meter each time can't help giving the best accuracy that's easily obtainable.

I can look up part number via the VIN, I'll start a private chat with you in a sec. Unless there's worse cracking on the far side of any of those points, I would probably recommend a repair with self-amalgamating tape. Especially if a new replacement does turn out to be unobtainable as suspected. If it wasn't actually icy at the location of the incident, it may have been surface contamination by diesel fuel, or oil of some kind, leading to one or more wheels locking up unexpectedly and triggering the ABS.

That was just the ABS kicking in I think. Did it feel like the pedal was vibrating harshly underfoot? As with any VW group car of this era; probably a good idea to check the brake servo vacuum hose for cracks at the junctions of the hard plastic sections. Edit: and check your tyre pressures, MOT doesn't.

Thanks Lee. Currently trying to dream up an explanation that isn't head gasket.

Found that the oil level was rather low, despite no external leaks these days. Must be burning some. ☹️ Has done a fair number of miles since I last looked, so not too alarmed. Buuut, just this afternoon, went to re-check the oil level (fine) but noticed coolant was a bit low. Hadn't been driven for almost 24 hours when I opened the expansion cap to top it up. Sickening sound of pressure release, stone (ice!) cold engine. Oh dear...

And you'll get exactly the same divided opinion here. I'm in the 'car will figure it out just fine' camp. No-one ever really produces any proper evidence either way.

Try here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs

It is probably part of the procedure for removing the light switch. Certainly is on earlier models; push and twist, can't remember which direction.

What makes you think it needs a cambelt change?

Logic suggests that a correlation error is not a fault with either sensor (which would have dedicated and specific fault codes) but a strong hint that the belt has not been fitted correctly, and the engine is mis-timed. Maybe the garage has used incorrect locking tools?

I can't see anything in the wiring diagrams for a BMN that calls itself "Sensor reference voltage A" unfortunately. There are various 5V outputs from engine ECU to various individual sensors, and one that goes to two via a splice in the loom, G581 Position sensor for charge air pressure actuator and G212, the potentiometer of the EGR valve, both coming from pin 26 of the ECU, white/yellow wires to both sensors. No idea if this is the specific supply that the fault code is referring to, or whether it is all of the 5V power outputs from ECU. Not much help, sorry.

Your roof will not collapse and crush you, even if the vehicle rolls and lands on its roof. Therefore it can take a lot more load than 75Kg. The 75Kg limit is about not raising the vehicle's overall centre of gravity too much for handling to be adversely affected when in motion.

Roof load is all about what's safe to drive with up there. Presumably no one will be in the tent when mobile.

If you find the engine code I could look up the wiring relevant to the fault. Without it, I can't.

The relay will be soldered onto the circuitboard of the BCM, but your BCM will not resemble either of the ones shown in the linked thread. I have no experience with this later BCM type (just two large connectors). Expecting one in the post shortly though, so could potentially examine circuitry associated with front wipers.

Engine code is the starting point for any wiring/circuit research. Probably shown a few lines above the top of the section of your scan above, or on a sticker on the upper cambelt cover, or at the start of the engine number on V5c. Example shown below for a different engine type.

Might be another springtime project in the offing. Just scanned the car and got this, which was about 20 minutes into our return journey from Christmas visiting. As well as the scaryish-sounding fault, the engine temperature (reported) looks rather low for the time since start-up, as does the system voltage at 13.9V. I wonder what the deviation numbers mean? No chain replacement has occurred since (engine) factory build 165k miles ago, I'm pretty sure.

Driving about on Christmas Eve visiting relatives, the absence of cruise control was mentioned at one point. So I had a quick look on partslink24 and ebay and ended up buying a kit yesterday. Genuine NOS of correct PN per VIN. Wasn't cheap at £150, but considering it includes new stalks, BCM and some sort of loom section, seemed reasonable. Found a link or two on TeamBHP that makes it look doable with VCDS and effort. Quite looking forward to a New Year project. Probably won't really start until springtime, but you know, in the pipeline. 😁

Missed this post, sorry for not acknowledging. Interesting thought. What was 'alsonager' meant to say? Also managed? Sounds worthy of investigation, ta.

^ That's incredibly beautiful.

What is your engine code? If it is BNM or BNV then the circuit info looks like this, with no clear marking of +5V or signal, or even +, so I'm not sure you should expect to find a 'power' pin. Later diagram for BMS engine code (first found in mk2 Fabia I think) shows something more like what you seem to be expecting, or even what you are looking at in terms of a circuit diagram: Looks to be two different technologies of crank sensor in these two examples.

You could just cut the wire near to each connector and add a new wire linking the two. (Check that the parts you have cut have continuity to their nearby connector before joining them.)

If it wasn't different in some way, it would not have a different part number.

Reassuringly, if I search partslink24 for 06L109259A for a 2015 Octavia, it shows as being dropped on Apr 1, 2018 and superseded by 06L109259E. £58.60 + VAT each at Skoda.

I see. That makes good sense.