Breezy_Pete

The battery light should go out once the engine is running. Not before.

I think the light should only extinguish once the engine has started.

Great news. So maybe the original N280 was the only real problem? A previous owner possibly changed the HVAC module whilst trying to fix the system's problems that were (unknown to them) caused by failing N280, without success?

There may be a restrictor/jet within one of the fittings, to make one narrower diameter. if there are no leaks in the system (EGR valve diaphragm?) then there should not really be any significant volume of air being moved, the diaphragm should make it a closed system, so high impedance to airflow may be no problem.

I think I would expect to connect to the uncapped one. They may well be equivalent, hard to see in that photo. I guess one might be routed to each side of the valve? Most likely both will be connected to the vacuum pump side, leaving only the servo on the protected side of the one-way valve.

Not sure if 'fingers crossed' translates in to Dutch, but I'm sure you understand the meaning. It sounds consistent with the fault code, if it was making intermittent contact.

Are you certain that it wasn't brake fluid? That would have a much easier way of entering. Maybe the real fault is master brake cylinder leakage?

If the pump exhausted air that way by design, I think a lot of oil would leak out of there too.

Remind me, is your steering wheel on the left or the right? If it's on the left, your servo vac hose should be part number 6Q1 612 041DF, if it's on the right it should be 6Q2612041BS, I think. Your engine has the PR-code T9V, I think. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2002-225/6/611-611070/

It pulls air out of the brake servo, and any other connected vacuum 'motors', exhausting any air that it pumps into the cam cover via this non-return flap valve. I would not expect that hose to be loose, it should not allow any air in except what comes through that pipe that you are moving.

I've always believed you! 😁

If you meant to write fuse, then yes, please do inspect. Take a photo and post it here if unsure of its condition. Trouble with engine speed (crank angle) sensor could well be related to starting/running problems. Inspect wiring near connector as a first step. Down behind oil cooler, I think.

Could it be worth checking that the VIN is the same everywhere it's written/stamped on vehicle, documentation, in firmware within control modules?

Is there a date code anywhere visible on the radiator fan that might indicate that it was/wasn't fitted during factory build?

How strange.

I agree. I agree, but maybe only after resolving the 00898, if a fault external to the HVAC module can be found for that. The system may start behaving correctly despite showing those relay errors.

For the power steering, it's probably a good idea to have a very close look at the strip fuse for it in the fusebox on top of the battery. These can crack, sometimes almost invisibly, leading to intermittent connection of the main power feed to the pump motor. In your car it's in position 5 of the strip fuses (1-6, left to right as viewed from in front of the car looking into the engine bay). Exact fault numbers may be useful if you still have the info, or the OBD tool?

In the implementation where there is a separate fan control module, the engine ECU doesn't have any (direct) dealings with it though. Inputs are either from radiator thermoswitch(es) or HVAC module. No data to it from anywhere. The version the OP has, without fan control module, the converse is true, all control is direct from engine ECU on the blue/yellow wire, as I understand it. (PWM signal, I think, from memory) It'll be nice to learn from this thread, assuming the problem does get resolved. I have confidence that Ruben will triumph.

The pictures in this listing make me think yours doesn't look right. I don't see how your cams could be rotated simultaneously in the same direction to achieve the position shown where that locking tool would fit in? Did you use such a tool? Qiilu Car Engine Timing Tool Camshaft Locking Tool Kit for 1.4/1.6 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

The way I read the scan in the OP, it's the HVAC module that's saying there's relay faults, not the engine ECU? From within module 08, or from within module 01? Having just looked at ETKA pages for 2010/2011 there's nothing to indicate the existence of suffix -B modules with any 'choice' of software/firmware pre-programming. That suggests my idea about differently programmed modules with the same part number to suit different fan configurations is very doubtful, I think.

I wonder if there is a software version in suffix B units that suit J279/J513 applications, and a different software version that suits the 'module in fan' version? And you have a suffix B HVAC module with the first of those software variants. The mis-match between dates of wiring diagram changes and ETKA part number changes seems to suggest that this might be what's going on? Almost that it must? If it was as simple as "suffix - C/D suits the module inside fan, suffix B suits separate fan control module" then the dates just can't be made to work.

Just leave the charger set on Normal. Although AGM batteries can be charged faster at higher voltage than wet batteries, they don't have to be.

There's a screenshot of two of those for £33 delivered in the third post of this thread. Link 2x5L Mannol 5W-30 C3 vw 504 00 / 507 00 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil Longlife 3 5056511600579 | eBay

A Skoda dealer should be able to order it for you. This UK based company claim they can get you one, but it seems crazy to buy from here and have shipped all the way to Czech. Skoda Ball Joint 5E9803902A - LLLParts At that price I would be keen to find one in a scrapyard!

Will look forward to attempting some assistance in the mk1 Fabia subforum.