Breezy_Pete

See this post, make your own mind up based on what's written in the banner link: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499676-battery-causing-various-errors/?do=findComment&comment=5607340

If you fit a non-AGM/EFB battery you should disconnect the battery monitor signal connector from the battery negative post. The alternator should then revert to a fixed voltage output that should be OK for a conventional 'wet' battery. No

Flocking baaa-stew-ards!

Yes I probably would still avoid it to be honest. There's a reason the chain had problems, there's a reason the seller is getting rid of it, there's a reason it seems like a 'good deal'. I wouldn't want to become involved with such a vehicle.

I personally would treat a chain replacement on a 1.2/12V as a big 'avoid' red flag. 120 000km or before (when exactly, do you know?) is very early to have had chain trouble, so it suggests that maintenance of the engine throughout its life has been questionable.

Not ideal, cos it's much more expensive than a normal KKL cable, and it will have pirated software probably. VCDS Lite is a free download from ross-tech.com and a suitable cable is usually max £20. Cable example from reliable supplier: VW Audi Seat Skoda USB Interface for VCDS Lite - for most VAG cars 1996-2003 (gendan.co.uk)

I'd be hunting round the aux belt run carefully with a mechanic's stethoscope if I were you, trying to locate the noise source. Guess the compressor has had it, and that probably means game over for the A\C. Lucky (?) summer's almost over.

Does it still function to provide cold air?

Very likely, yes. Keep an eye on it; there may be a charging fault, or there may be a parasitic drain on the battery from some connected item with a fault. Or it may just be normal. Probably a good illustration of why they removed the state of charge display later; caused too much anxiety. In a minor fit of pedantry, the battery isn't coded to the car, the car is coded to the battery. There is nothing at all inside the battery that could harbour a code.

Is it the earlier type with motor modules with part numbers starting 6Q, or the later where they start with 6Y? 2004 was the changeover year. Have you examined the wiring in the bellows between door and a-pillar, both sides?

@domhnall will very likely be able to answer this for you.

Edited. Out of date info, sorry.

Brown/white and brown/yellow for G17 ambient temp sensor on a 2005 Fabia.

All the petrol engine variants except for the 2.0 will be smaller connection pipe diameter, the vRS one is bigger at 55mm. Any non-vRS diesel one should be OK though, except estate/hatch will have different versions too, I think.

Which fuse do you mean? There appear to be 3 fuses associated with the fan control module, a 10 amp one in the cabin fusebox, position 16, a 30 amp blade fuse in the battery-top holder (position 3a) for slow speed fans and a 40 amp strip fuse (middle position of the five) for radiator fan full speed. Have you checked all three? Were the replacement fans you fitted new or used items? Have you checked that the connectors and their contacts which connect to the fan control module are unaffected by the spilt acid?

May be worth measuring the resistance of the other two solenoids while you're waiting, if you haven't already. This to test that your meter is reading reasonably, and also to guard against an error in the workshop manual whereby they've swapped a couple of numbers/ranges. Pins 1-2 (N239) and 4-6 (N18). Guess you have the suggested ranges for those already in the manual?

No Ken, sep was referring to the hot/cold blend flap, hence cycling the heat control to exercise/unstick it. I would suggest using VCDS Lite to scan the HVAC module for fault codes. One relating to V68 temperature control flap motor would be confirmatory.

From memory crank sensor on the 1.9 diesels is low down on front face of engine block, right hand side as you look from front bumper into bay. Where was the thing you changed and what part number was it? Tucked in somewhere behind oil filter housing/ oil cooler apparently.

Fault code was for crank sensor, wasn't it?, is that what you changed? See e.g. Engine not starting - Fuel issue - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA

Wow, love it when people put such great resources out there.

I understand your purist wish to have everything 'just so' and OEM, but if you're already going to be fitting secondhand relay holders, why not just extract the pins/wires that come with them, bin the large ones and replace, re-use the 6.3mm ones by either connecting onto the existing wire, or cutting that back close to the crimp and soldering onto your loom. They're only going to be carrying, what, 50mA of coil current or something, sub-critical. Nice to get a full list of parts required for anyone interested though.

Ah, OK. 🙂

Are both of the 'real' relays the same contact pattern as each other (or simply the same part)? I had it in my head that one was smaller, with 4-off 1/4" spade contacts (like the RHS relay in my photo), but if so how do they both fit that same relay socket?

You'd be welcome to any of these bits should they be useful. The left two relays are equivalent I think, pins are oriented opposite just to show what's written on each. Connector looks to be the only genuine bit, but it's the male pin part from the heater, not the loom.

I've probably got one of each relay in a box in the shed, but from memory, at least one of them has the whopping 3/8"/ 9.5 mm wide main contact terminals, then 6.3mm for the coil contacts.