Breezy_Pete

Does the car have start-stop? There are different systems for starter control if it does, obviously.

Where have you seen reference to the "Terminal 30 relay"? The (100) one in the photo is the "Diesel direct injection system relay". The starter solenoid is driven by the so-called Terminal 50 voltage supply relay, but that's in the cabin, not under the bonnet, apparently.

OK, I'll look at the diagrams while you measure the voltage.

Tell me what year your car is so I can find the right wiring info. It could well be a flat battery, do you have a multileter to measure its voltage? Or a charger to charge it up a bit?

There only looks to be one relay there, so it's probably that one!

Yes, the fan switch. Shame it wasn't that, it would've been a free fix. I clearly read too fast the bit where you described the location.

Check that the leak isn't coming from the thermoswitch first. Seems very common and results in wetness below it. It's just above the bottom hose fitting. Tightening a little generally fixes it.

What year is your car? Sounds like the alternator excitation wire may be busted. Year and ideally engine code and I can look up the details in wiring diagrams.

Because you mentioned looks in your opening post, and again with the Clarkson reference. You didn't seem interested in trying to pin down why your existing brakes don't feel adequate (i.e. what's actually wrong in the system) you just want to bolt on some bigger stuff. As far as I'm concerned that 's exactly what I'm here to try to do. Tata for now.

So it's a vanity thing more than a function thing. I'm not really interested in that sort of stuff, so I'll leave further guidance to others.

The other sensor, G62, the primary coolant temperature sensor is easily visible in these images of the water pump assembly. It's the grey plastic connector in the corner: Water Pump - PW0009 ET Engineteam - 06H121026AB, 06H121026AF, 06H121026AG | K MOTORSHOP Very much harder to see when the water pump is on the engine, I have no doubt. Tucked under intake manifold, follow the two big coolant hoses up to it, just to the nearside of the oil cooler as I said in your last thread about this. I don't think you're likely to need to be getting there, but others searching and finding your thread title may benefit.

OK, G83 wiring to engine ECU: Pin 1, yellow wire to ECU pin 36 Pin 2, brown wire to ECU pin 12 Inspect connections both ends for looking for corrosion too.

Very likely to be fuse. No. 35 in cabin fusebox, 25 Amp.

It's a nut rather than a bolt here, but yeah, that's my favoured technique too. Edit: not a bad idea to put a couple of custom-shortened wheel bolts through brake disc into hub before doing this, otherwise the M6 brake disc retaining screw takes all the torque of the undoing or tightening, and may bend a tad. Funnily enough ( see below post) I did a major overhaul of out HTP in August and after stripping the engine down to virtually bare block, the only fault turned out to be the clutch (d'oh!) Chain was barely visibly different to the new genuine replacement at 175k miles. Maybe 3mm elongation, if that.

Thanks. I had a pretty good day today, but that scene makes me feel optimistic about the future in a way I can't begin to explain. Soul food of an extremely pleasant flavour. It's not a bad bottle of Argentinian Malbec I'm drinking, before anyone else says it...

Did I tell you about where the wires go before? If not I'll look it up tomorrow. Most likely a problem at or near the sensor connector I think, but I should be able to find info so you can do end-to-end continuity checks, if you have a simple multimeter.

G83 is the one you've already found and changed, so focus on the wiring to that and forget the other one.

Yeah, I mentioned the soot upthread a bit.

Fix the problem(s) with the 256s, they should feel ample for an HTP. Is it the 6-valve or 12-valve variant of HTP? If you do want to go bigger you need the other type of wheel bearing carrier, without the built-in brake carrier. If the problem with the current set-up is hydraulic or pneumatic you won't be any better off though. Any warning lights on? Our HTP suffered a gradual loss of servo assistance due to a PCV valve airleak. Fixing that returned the brakes to their previous ample functionality and they are only the 239mm size. The airleak started to generate intermittent lambda faults but only years after the brakes started to get worse. Brake servo vac hose cracking is another mechanism fro airleaks direct into the servo pneumatics, check it by feel and visually ether side of the one-way valve.

All these folk who think it's a blessing to not have adblu should probably read the link the OP posted above. Things like this: SCR advantages: Permits more optimized combustion Can enable better fuel efficiency/power No concerns about engine durability/oil degradation

Ebay sellers are going to be buying from TPS or dealers then adding margin for handling, shipping and profit; so just as expected really. (For genuine parts anyway).

It charged, then it stopped charging; as intended by the charger's designer I expect. Resting voltage (nothing connected, and not recently in use or on charge) of a fully charged lead-acid battery is about 12.6/12.7V. Charging voltage has to be higher, and for a while afterwards the battery will still show this higher voltage. After an hour or two it'll show the 12.6ish volts if fully charged and the car isn't taking excessive current in its 'fully shut down' state. See below.

Marketing will be another strong driver for the ever-increasing array of 'toys'. The 'my car does x; doesn't yours?' BS/vanity/insecurity/willy-waving nonsense that seems more and more popular as time goes by. If your car isn't lit up like a freakin Christmas tree inside and out you're just no-one right?

Intake valve guides will have no wear, I think.

I don't think that either are directly involved on your car, as far as I can see. Try the temperature sensor change alone; always best to only try one thing at a time, otherwise you never know what really worked.