Breezy_Pete

I will message you later, I think I can help. 🙂

Hello @langhede , that's a good question, but the answer depends on which 6Q1959801 you mean. The crucial information is contained in the letter after the core 9-character part number. Older Mk1 Fabias (pre-facelift) used 6Q1959801A in LHD cars, 6Q2959802A in RHD. Mk2 Fabias, from around 2008, went back to a 6Q... part number, but this time the end letter is F/G/H/J. The 6Q1959801A and 6Q2959802A have three connectors, in contrast to the two on a 6Y... motor. They are involved in mirror control, the reason for the third connector. They also use two-wire CAN for communication connected to the convenience bus. The 6Y...motors use LIN, single-wire comms with (only) their passenger side counterpart (and rear motors if fitted). No involvement in mirror control. The later ones (2008> approx), 6Q....F, etc, use a single 16-way connector. Also LIN-connected only to other window motors. No involvement in mirror control. I will try to add some photos later today, when I have some more time. Edit: see below. Note: the character sequences I've written in brackets relate the last line of the part number labels to the model that they are from/for. If you mismatch these, despite having matched the main VW group part number, correct function isn't guaranteed. Numbers in orange are the number of ways in each loom connector, not all will have wires in. I also have some advice on pitfalls to avoid if trying to purchase on the secondhand market, which I will do as a separate post later. Executive summary: beware of sellers who over-generalise applicability, and especially any that seem to have scratched out characters on the part number label.

I would look what prices I could find for 2nd hand genuine too though.

This is probably your cheapest route to new genuine- https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/1K0906627B/vag-pressure-converter-1k0906627b

That depends which calipers you have. FSII calipers (239mm discs) have an M8 thread. 6mm hexagon bit to unscrew bolts. FSIII calipers (256mm discs) are an M9 thread I believe. 7mm hexagon bit to unscrew pins.

Hiya Poopy, welcome to Briskoda. Please do contribute to this post at some point. 😁 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/220601-what-made-you-choose-your-username/page/17/#comment-5925982

A tool that you may need, and may not have, is a 9mm 12-sided socket. This is for the M7 screws that hold the clutch pressure plate to the flywheel. I can lend you one if you want to get in touch (and I can find the one I bought!).

@ords's part number is correct for your VIN - 06K109121B. £24.80 + VAT at Skoda.

Reg or VIN would help me to help.

Stop buying throttle bodies. That isn't the problem, you've already shown that by trying another.

No. It goes from the brake servo (big round black thing on the wall at the back of the engine bay), to the intake manifold just below the throttle body. You will see it better with the engine top cover removed, I think. As I said above, they tend to crack at the junctions of the hard plastic sections. Look with your eyes, but also feel with fingertips, because they often crack on the underside.

I think you can probably change it without losing much if any oil on a 1.2 TSI, others will know better than me, never done one. Likely is the wrong filter, I'd say.

I went through a phase of watching lots of his videos. There's a fascination for me in watching how he overcomes a lot of the access and tooling issues whilst also managing to film it all, well, seemingly alone!

Take your time, and if in doubt, remove more bits than strictly essential, to give yourself more working space.

Yes, pull the nozzle out with pliers and see if it sprays then. If so, put nozzle into descaling solution for a while and then try to blow through it. If not, just buy a replacement for not much. Pin is no good for unblocking, I seem to remember, because there's a right angle bend in the pathway the water follows, which you'll never clear with a pin.

Perhaps you have been given/sold the wrong filter type? Was it visually the same or different to what came off? It's possible you have a coincidental failure of the oil pressure switch, find and disconnect the 1-wire connector from it to see if there is leaked oil inside it.

If a fault with potential impact on emissions is detected, that the engine ECU can ascribe to one of the three cylinders, it does indeed shut down that cylinder @J.R.. It's quite dramatic and unwelcome on a 3-potter. What would have been an excellent idea, with 6/6 hindsight (metric for 20/20) is to have asked the roadside attender which fault codes had resulted in the warning lights. There will have been at least one, and they would have seen it, before clearing and blaming the need for a software update.

Find it, read the big number off the top of it or the part number on the side of it. See what prices you can find for 2nd hand and new, and decide which to try by substitution.

1.2 12-valve or 1.2 6-valve? Wiring and relay arrangements differ. Let me know the VIN if unsure which.

So there are 2 fuse no.7s in the under-bonnet fuse box, one is a strip fuse, on the front of the box, shown as not assigned in my info. The other, a 40 Amp blade-type fuse is shown as supplying the X contact relief relay. If that relay is sticking on when it should be off, that may explain the large current draw, if something that should be switched off by it is staying on. That relay is in position 5 of the "relay holder A under onboard control unit" (also known as BCM, in cabin generally in front of driver's right knee in RHD cars).

Same part number (including suffix) = same item, doesn't matter where it's found.

VIN or reg plate would allow me to investigate car-specific circuits and fuse allocations. Owners manuals try but often fail to keep up with all the variants.

Helps with fuel economy/CO2 rating during Type Approval testing, primarily. Charge management with EFB/AGM batteries, which mustn't be overcharged, too.

Might be a worn EGR valve rather than a sticking one. A sticking one ought to generate a specific code saying 'position mismatch' or similar, since there is position feedback from a potentiometer in the top part. EGR valves on petrol engines tend to burn off any local carbon build-up cos they run very hot. As said in that linked thread, it's only generally the TB end of the metal pipe that gets occluded, where temperatures are much lower. No cooler on these, @Alasdair1 other than the long steel pipe. There's a little pipe on the side of the EGR that equalises the pressure above the valve, with a tiddly little air filter on the end of the short flexible pipe. It might be worth pulling that filter off, and seeing how much suck there is on that pipe when the engine is idling (EGR should be shut below 1500rpm). It is expected that there should be a bit of air entry here, due to the clearances round the valve stem and wear on the valve seat, but if it seems like a really strong suck, that air is probably leaking through to the intake manifold and potentially confusing the engine ECU. If EGR valve is thought to be original, it may be time to replace, genuine Pierburg recommended over the many cheap chinesium offerings.