Breezy_Pete

Or perhaps more likely, part of it jammed up the crank pulley, causing it to stop rotating abruptly? Not sure.

There is, the timing belt is fully covered, albeit by plastic covers. I guess the aux belt remnants flailing about managed to destroy part of the covering.

Remove the two covers from the gearbox end of the cam cover which give you access to where the cam locking tools fit. You will be able to see the slots in each cam that the tools fit into. They should be always parallel to one another; and when cylinder 1 is at top dead centre, they should be parallel to the head gasket. If either of those conditions is untrue, the chain has jumped. Here's a pic of ours when newly acquired, with some flat bits of alloy stuck into the slots to investigate parallelism (at TDC). Changing tensioner alone is not possible without almost all the same work that would be involved in changing the whole timing kit, it lives under the one-piece alloy cover at that end of the engine. There are horizontal locating dowels in the engine block that mean the cover has to be removed horizontally after all the fasteners are removed. It will probably break if attempts are made to remove it in other directions. Tensioner visible here with timing cover removed (in 2020), just below water pump. And locating dowels can be seen in the block too. Since the cover is attached by sealant as well as about 30 fasteners, to camcover, head, block and sump, it is difficult to remove even with the sump off, let alone without, where the sealant to sump would have to be broken in shear. Would be nigh-on impossible to refit the cover to the sump (with sump left on) oil-tight using sealant unless the dowels were removed and omitted. The image shows the sump loosely refitted after the timing cover was removed.

The VW group part number may well be visible on the rear face of the alternator. Match that exactly and you will be fine.

02K 945 415G, superseded by 02K 945 415K, apparently. But do rule out wiring issues first, I have a Fabia switch that I bought several years back, only to find that it was just bad wiring when I went to change it.

Maybe the plastic body of the switch has become loose relative to the metal casing?, leading to unpredictable switch mechanics. I can look up switch part number for you if you supply reg number or VIN.

Having said all that, a bad connection would tend to make the light(s) not work, rather than stay on when they shouldn't be on, unless the two wires are shorting together somewhere near that same area. Cutting that short section of trunking off may reveal something. Could also be that the switch contacts are sticking, but probably best to improve the wiring situation first, if any damage is found.

Yes, it's quite common for the wires near that connector to degrade, possibly due to the transitions between relatively stiff plastic convoluted trunking and the free bits of wire just before the connector entry. Vibration and engine movement can cause the insulation to crack thereabouts, then water can get in and turn the copper conductors within into green and black dust over time. It's probably best to remove that section of convoluted sleeving completely, buy a connector with tails of wire prefitted, and keep cutting back the insulation of the existing loom until clean bright copper is found. Then splice the wires together from new connector and loom. Part number is just visible in your photo, 1J0973702, I think.

For that VIN we get halogen headlights as follows: 6Y2941015R for the left side of the car, 6Y2941016R for the right side. Both still available from Skoda at £135.50 plus VAT each, if you're feeling wealthy.

Just about to go out briefly, but if you ping the 17 character VIN across I can look up later for you.

The blue square is your oil pressure switch. When these start to fail, oil leaks out through them.

Catalogue shows WHT 001 812 for a '24 Karoq, no idea what the difference is - if any, but the price is spectacular.... £9.90 each, including VAT. 😆 😲 Second hand is definitely the way to go!

I'm not sure it's going to be relevant to yours, but I have found that after changing cam belt over Christmas, mine seems to have stopped smoking. It was showing a -1.5 torsion value before, and now is +0.5 approx. I think the four year old belt had stretched a bit; the belt tensioner pointer certainly wasn't anywhere near the notch. I think you can see the tensioner pointer with just top belt cover off. VCDS can tell you the torsion value in MVB4. Your VW specialist is probably going to check this sort of thing any way, if they feel it might be relevant.

Good choice I imagine. 👍🤞

Find a reference to it being necessary (for a PD 1.9TDI) on here, or on ross-tech forums and I might believe it. Both places are usually reliable because someone will shoot down duff info pretty quickly.

I'm not sure that such coding exists on PD engines. In fact I'm fairly sure it doesn't. That makes me distrustful of your garage. Possibility 3 (from youtube research alone, I'm a PD newbie) might be that they fitted this other injector, but failed to de-burr the head where it sits, and the new seal(s) were ripped on the way in. Apparently that's a major risk. 2. sounds wildly unlikely to me.

Look at, or post a photo of, the end view of the alternator belt pulley. If all you can see is a big nut, you don't have a freewheeling pulley. I don't think the exciter wire can be the problem because when that breaks, the battery light never works at all. The other thin wire is for monitoring only, and doesn't affect charging. I think voltage regulator/brushpack is the most likely problem.

Yes, the black/violet wire to the rear wiper is ignition switched 12V, from fuse 47.

I'd be a bit surprised if there's more than one oxygen sensor. Can check via wiring diagrams later.

There is usually just one wire in the whole car that is completely unfused; the one that connects battery positive to the starter motor. A short to chassis/earth on that could be responsible, but obviously the cable run and insulation is designed with this in mind, so that seems rather unlikely to me.

I think your assumption that the CC isn't working because of the battery is unsafe. Better to scan and look for fault codes that may relate more directly.

01/07/22 built. Not really sure what I'm looking for amongst car data. No mention of 125 anything, is there another way that's described?

What's the reg?

All of them will be permanent 12V.

Which engine in this car? Does the battery light come on with ignition/contact?