Breezy_Pete

Catalogue shows WHT 001 812 for a '24 Karoq, no idea what the difference is - if any, but the price is spectacular.... £9.90 each, including VAT. 😆 😲 Second hand is definitely the way to go!

I'm not sure it's going to be relevant to yours, but I have found that after changing cam belt over Christmas, mine seems to have stopped smoking. It was showing a -1.5 torsion value before, and now is +0.5 approx. I think the four year old belt had stretched a bit; the belt tensioner pointer certainly wasn't anywhere near the notch. I think you can see the tensioner pointer with just top belt cover off. VCDS can tell you the torsion value in MVB4. Your VW specialist is probably going to check this sort of thing any way, if they feel it might be relevant.

Good choice I imagine. 👍🤞

Find a reference to it being necessary (for a PD 1.9TDI) on here, or on ross-tech forums and I might believe it. Both places are usually reliable because someone will shoot down duff info pretty quickly.

I'm not sure that such coding exists on PD engines. In fact I'm fairly sure it doesn't. That makes me distrustful of your garage. Possibility 3 (from youtube research alone, I'm a PD newbie) might be that they fitted this other injector, but failed to de-burr the head where it sits, and the new seal(s) were ripped on the way in. Apparently that's a major risk. 2. sounds wildly unlikely to me.

Look at, or post a photo of, the end view of the alternator belt pulley. If all you can see is a big nut, you don't have a freewheeling pulley. I don't think the exciter wire can be the problem because when that breaks, the battery light never works at all. The other thin wire is for monitoring only, and doesn't affect charging. I think voltage regulator/brushpack is the most likely problem.

Yes, the black/violet wire to the rear wiper is ignition switched 12V, from fuse 47.

I'd be a bit surprised if there's more than one oxygen sensor. Can check via wiring diagrams later.

There is usually just one wire in the whole car that is completely unfused; the one that connects battery positive to the starter motor. A short to chassis/earth on that could be responsible, but obviously the cable run and insulation is designed with this in mind, so that seems rather unlikely to me.

I think your assumption that the CC isn't working because of the battery is unsafe. Better to scan and look for fault codes that may relate more directly.

01/07/22 built. Not really sure what I'm looking for amongst car data. No mention of 125 anything, is there another way that's described?

What's the reg?

All of them will be permanent 12V.

Which engine in this car? Does the battery light come on with ignition/contact?

Difficult to know if the pump has problem until it has some fluid to pump.

Probably leaking into the dust covers on the tie-rods.

Bear me in mind if you have any trouble with the electric windows. 🙂

Yep, 239mm for that VIN. 👍

Only if you are talking about roughly twice as many petrol vehicles as diesels. The difference is significant, but nowhere near that big. I guess you mean CO.

No Octavias have the same engine as yours, so the Indie may be getting confused about what's involved in changing just the tensioner (much the same as changing chain really). Ask Skoda to look at it and give you a quote to repair. Or a VW group specialist independent.

The Skoda tech, I think. I believe it may be the 1.2 TSI (turbo'd, quite different engine) which had a change of chain and so tensioner around that era. I think the degree of slip could be assessed (by someone with experience of this engine) by seeing how far away the slot that isn't currently visible via cam sensor hole is, if that makes any sense!? Taking the chain cover off is a big job timewise, and I can't see why changing chain at same time as tensioner would add greatly to the cost. Is it an Indie specialising in VW group cars or a more general one? I would be tempted to get more quotes. How well/badly did it drive on the way to the Indie?

That's the 60bhp single cam version. I think I see what they're getting at with viewing through cam sensor hole. Especially if they set cylinder 1 to top dead centre in compression stroke prior to getting the pic. I'm more familiar with the twin cam version of the engine to be honest, though. I think they are getting mixed up with a different engine type when referring to tensioner changes and incompatibility with chain. Whether it's worth fixing may depend on how much the chain has slipped. If it has only jumped one tooth there may not be any valve damage; more and there probably will be. Are you attached to the car, so to speak?

What's the registration plate, or VIN please? The 70bhp 3 cylinder is a 1.2 litre non-turbocharged engine. The work to replace the tensioner (on that engine) is almost the same as for the whole chain, so I think this garage are not too sure what they're dealing with. There's a fairly straightforward way of checking the chain timing on this engine, without significant time or disassembly work. Sounds like they're unaware of this. Whereabouts in South England are you?

Yes, windy up there.

Gale force winds from the WNW may have some bearing on this??