Show your Octavia III Dashcam setups

[Sam@]

Anyone else using the Koonlung K1S?

 

I have it currently set up in my Focus and will transfer it over to my Superb when it arrives. 

 

Without the car infront of me it's hard to picture, but I want to find a better way to fix the two cameras than the sticky pads on glass, as a) they keep coming unstuck the lens is then so close to the glass it causes lots of reflections.

 

I want to find a way to mount them a short distance from the glass but keep them as discreet as they currently are.

A) use better sticky pads! I don't use the same camera, but have 3M pads and they're going nowhere.

stay as close as you can - fit a CP filter if it's causing you problems.

[Mr Grump]

On the topic of pads: My mini 806 is mounted on the plastic lane assist camera housing, and even the 3M pads give out in the summer. I have now taken to removing the camera from the slide mount if the car isn't going anywhere for any length of time.

Kinda reluctant to move the mounting point as its very discrete from inside and out

Edited 6 July, 2016 by Mr Grump

[ToffeeMRD]

I bought, on recommendation from Techmoan, the DDPai M6+ from eBay for £99. Arrived within a couple of weeks and easy to set up - works with an app for taking pics and short videos. Uses a micro SD card for constant recording. Picture, audio and recording quality is superb having seen other videos from far more expensive units.

Here's the link to show the box and video quality etc:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402088-vrs-tdi-so-far/?p=4675163

Here's a link to show the wiring (I have just been informed about a fuse tap):

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402088-vrs-tdi-so-far/?p=4681697

If you want to know which site to buy from, check techmoan or drop me a line and I'll send you the shop name I bought from.

Edited 2 August, 2016 by ToffeeMRD

[Alex1980]

Morning everyone.

I was just wondering if any Octavia Vrs owners have had issues with their dash cams getting a GPS signal.

I've bought a mini 0903 with a GPS mount and when viewing the files the actual recordings/videos are great, but the GPS trace is very erratic and shows me in the middle of a national park in British Columbia, when I'm actually in Derbyshire England.

To be fair the seller has been brilliant and very responsive between myself and the factory in China. He is going to replace the mount as a first possible fix, and has suggested not mounting it underneath the dots around the rear view mirror, where it currently is.

Edited 17 August, 2016 by Alex1980

[FlyingGecko]

No GPS on my Transcends.

[Neily03]

GPS works fine on my blackvue

[vrs red]

Blackvue DR650 GW ir 2ch works fine. No GPS faults, and no DAB interference.

[FluffyEyeball]

Blackvue DR650 GW ir 2ch works fine. No GPS faults, and no DAB interference.

 

Does the IR camera work any better when recording outside the vehicle than the standard camera?

[ExSEAT]

My mini was fine with GPS in my VRS until it completely packed up. Similarly no problems with my 520g either :/

[vrs red]

The ir is only on the rear camera. Gives a pretty good view at night

[YMe]

Hard wired my dashcams today, was surprised to find only one unallocated ignition controlled fuse position available. I bunged a male spade connector in it and connected, via two in line fuses, to auxiliary sockets to these, plugged the cams transformers into the sockets and bunged the whole wiring mess in a Tupperware box in the glove box.

 

Anyone any idea what spec cable you need for the USB to camera lead as most of these leads are data enabled as well which means that they wont display or record a picture but are looking for a data input like a storage device? I ask because my rear camera uses the original cable plus two short extensions and I would like to do the run with one cable if possible although with all the hiding of wires it is probably getting near to a USB2 cable length limit.

Edited 19 August, 2016 by YMe

[encephalopathy]

I am running 2 cameras (1 front and 1 back) I have piggybacked a switched live feed into the glovebox where the charger sits with both camera usb leads plugged in (nothing plugged into the cigarette lighter type ports bit of this)

this has knocked off my DAB signal almost completely

 

any links for the charger bit that folk have used in an estate that doesn't affect the DAB signal? It needs at least 2 usb ports

 

thanks

[YMe]

I use the chargers that came with the RAC cams in a similar set up to yours except I hard wired the power rather than piggyback, and used female 12 volt accessory sockets to plug the chargers into - no DAB issues. Can only suggest checking your wiring runs where it passes close to the DAB aerial on my SE L estate this is the rear side window - I think, but may be wrong, that there is an aerial both sides.

 

Could it be that two cameras plugged into one charger is overloading the charger enough to cause interference with the DAB but not stop the charger working?

Edited 20 August, 2016 by YMe

[encephalopathy]

the interference happens when both cameras are unplugged as well which makes me think it is the charger in the glovebox. rf chokes have helped a little. I've just ordered a dual usb 12v-5v adapter off amazon for under a tenner to try instead

 

DROK® DC Converter 8-22V 12V to 5V 15W Power Adapter Double USB

[BlueDiesel]

Had a nightmare getting the glovebox off today with a view to fitting my dashcam I took out of my previous car, however I have noticed that the circular connector that was at the end of the black ground cable has somehow come off:

 

 

In relation to this, I am wondering:

 

• Which is the best fuse to piggyback on to?
• Where is the ground point around the fusebox, and can I just unscrew and wrap the exposed wire cord around?

Also, with the sensors pictured below, will I have any trouble trying to install the camera in and around the mirror area?

 

 

Sorry for all the questions, hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

 

LD.

[BlueDiesel]

Well I have managed to use the fuse port 35 (HL beam adjust/camera/radar) for my camera and all appears to be working fine. It is not as covert as I would like, but it does not restrict my view as such and gets a good viewpoint. I will upload some photos of the setup and upload some drive footage tomorrow.

 

One thing I did notice was that I am missing fuse number 16 which is said to be for the signal amplifier for telephone, does this mean for the phonebox feature which I apparently have?

 

Edited 29 August, 2016 by LaneDiesel

[ExSEAT]

For the earth or ground you will want a fork crimp at the very least or a circle ring crimp ideally. There is a very handy bolt under the side cover that you remove to get access to the glovebox. Its highlighted elsewhere in this thread. I used the rear wiper fuse for a switched live if that helps.

Positioning wise, wherever works best for you. Mine is a little to the left of the centre part of the screen as my sucker mount wont stick to the black dots around the cars camera section. I have a 3m mount to overcome that with though

[BlueDiesel]

Got it set up and it looks like this from the driver point of view:

 

 

Slow moving vehicle footage:

 

 

Normal driving footage:

 

 

Rather happy with the install, even if the camera does appear to shake a little bit.

Edited 30 August, 2016 by LaneDiesel

[Banjaminion]

This is what mine looks like, will upload some pictures of how discrete the camera is later

Trying to upload from my iPhone as my desktop is broken

[Rybu79]

error

Edited 31 August, 2016 by Rybu79

[mabnz]

Hey guys

 

I've got an O3 with a fair few options, and after trying to use fuse 47 (rear wiper) I've found my fuse tap physically won't fit in as it hits fuse 50 (boot lid) on the way in. Turn it around the other way and it hits fuse 45 (operating seat adjustment).

 

I got a multimeter in there and it literally looks like only two fuses are ignition switched - 47 and 49, neither of which I can use with the fuse tap I have.

 

Has anyone else got any other suggestions?

 

 

Mike.

[FluffyEyeball]

Hey guys

I've got an O3 with a fair few options, and after trying to use fuse 47 (rear wiper) I've found my fuse tap physically won't fit in as it hits fuse 50 (boot lid) on the way in. Turn it around the other way and it hits fuse 45 (operating seat adjustment).

I got a multimeter in there and it literally looks like only two fuses are ignition switched - 47 and 49, neither of which I can use with the fuse tap I have.

Has anyone else got any other suggestions?

IMG_1329.JPG

Mike.

Use the empty unassigned fuse slots, should be one for both live and switched live. You can get VAG fuse box connectors that slot in from behind (just like the OEM wiring) and connect to the devices wire, then you just use a normal fuse.

[mabnz]

Use the empty unassigned fuse slots, should be one for both live and switched live. You can get VAG fuse box connectors that slot in from behind (just like the OEM wiring) and connect to the devices wire, then you just use a normal fuse.

 

Thanks for the idea. Managed to find a switched fuse (don't know how I missed them yesterday) but hooked into 37 (headlight left). 36, 35 and 33 are also ignition switched.

 

 

 

Edited 4 September, 2016 by mabnz

[ahenners]

Just did my install today, great thread with some helpful info. Removing and refitting the glovebox was a massive pain! Tapped into fuse 48 for the switch live and it's working a treat.

[GainfulShrimp]

I completely agree re: glovebox... a royal pain to get it back in.

Did you route the wire along the top of the a-pillar and down the rubber door seal though?

I did that myself a few weeks ago based on the advice in this thread, then someone pointed out to me that there's an airbag extending down inside the top of the a-pillar, so routing a wire over there is a bad idea. Your car might not be the same as mine, of course, but it's worth checking.

On pages 18-19 of the Octavia A7 manual, it explains that if you've got an 'AIRBAG' badge at the top of the b-pillar, it indicates that you have the 'head airbag system' fitted, which extends all along the top of the windows, from a-pillar to c-pillar. Or just peek inside the a-pillar trim and you'll see the white concertina-folded airbag in situ.

Hence I changed my wire routing today, so it now goes along the roof lining, down the side of the windscreen and then between the bottom of the a-pillar and the side of the dash, exiting into the same area to the side of the glovebox. Same difference in terms of a neat install, but doesn't compromise the air bag in the same way.