Skoda Octavia VRS 162 tsi 2016 45,000km

 

It appears my water pump thermostat kit unit has crapped itself. The usual story similar to others, engine temp light and coolant low light came on, topped up coolant and took it to a garage. They quoted me $1200 Aud for the water pump and thermometer replacement + for labour. I cannot afford this at this current time so I'd do it myself with a mechanic friend of mine.

 

I ordered the pump and thermostat kit (part number 06L121111H) and we have our first problem.

 

The gasket of the thermostat kit has two holes open, however the gasket of the new unit has one hole sealed (see how my finger can't go through) and one hole open. (See photos)

 

My question is :

- Is it supposed to have one hole sealed?

- assuming it is supposed to be sealed, how come the holes in the old gasket are both open?

- any words of wisdom/advice on this job?

 

We are currently following this guide:

 

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-water-pump-thermostat-housing-mk7-vw-gti-beetle-jetta-macan%3fhs_amp=true

 

 

Thanks in advance!https://www.google.com.au/amp/s/blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-water-pump-thermostat-housing-mk7-vw-gti-beetle-jetta-macan%3fhs_amp=true

 

 

 

Just had 2017 Octavia 2000tdi water pump failure at 74000 miles on Monday. No warning just smelt the smoke then saw the temp rise. Not good for a relatively new car.

Skoda say that it is out of warranty. At last service I asked whether the warranty needed extending and was told it would be good for another service. I was offered a part discount on the labour and part but have made a complaint as I expected the warranty to cover it. Had a pretty bad time with Skoda assist too as Enterprise car hire couldn't deliver a car so was told to go to Exeter airport as their office would be open. It was closed due to COVID19 and had been for months so had 2.5 hr wait until finally got a taxi home to Gloucestershire. whole thing has been a bit of a joke really.  

17 hours ago, ChrisCorn said:

Just had 2017 Octavia 2000tdi water pump failure at 74000 miles on Monday. No warning just smelt the smoke then saw the temp rise. Not good for a relatively new car.

Skoda say that it is out of warranty. At last service I asked whether the warranty needed extending and was told it would be good for another service. I was offered a part discount on the labour and part but have made a complaint as I expected the warranty to cover it. Had a pretty bad time with Skoda assist too as Enterprise car hire couldn't deliver a car so was told to go to Exeter airport as their office would be open. It was closed due to COVID19 and had been for months so had 2.5 hr wait until finally got a taxi home to Gloucestershire. whole thing has been a bit of a joke really.  

 

I feel you pain, Its a bit of a Joke on such a new Car.

In 15 Years of Motoring and having Owned around Performance 50 Cars including many VAG's, I have never had a Water Pump Fail on any of my Vehicles!

This is One of the main reasons I am hesitant to buy an Octavia VRS as to be honest this sort of thing should not really be an issue on Modern Cars.

On 09/07/2020 at 16:27, ChrisCorn said:

Just had 2017 Octavia 2000tdi water pump failure at 74000 miles on Monday. No warning just smelt the smoke then saw the temp rise. Not good for a relatively new car.

Skoda say that it is out of warranty. At last service I asked whether the warranty needed extending and was told it would be good for another service. I was offered a part discount on the labour and part but have made a complaint as I expected the warranty to cover it. Had a pretty bad time with Skoda assist too as Enterprise car hire couldn't deliver a car so was told to go to Exeter airport as their office would be open. It was closed due to COVID19 and had been for months so had 2.5 hr wait until finally got a taxi home to Gloucestershire. whole thing has been a bit of a joke really.  

 

2017 is worrying... is yours a facelift model?

 

Just had the water temp hit almost 130, stopped and then restarted and the temp moved up and down a little past 90. No errors when doing scan with VCDS.

Going to dealer on Monday to see if they will do a goodwill pump replacement - probably no chance, but will let them know that if wrong answer then they won't getting 

a sale when the new VRS appears. 

I seen a mention of someone that had the TPI details but cannot find the poster. Does anybody have either the TPI details or contact details of the poster.

VRs TD

Feb 2016

44,856 mls

 

 

 

I recently bought an used Škoda Octavia mk3 with a make year of late 2014, 1.6 TDi engine.

Drove it for only a few days and ran into the same problem.

Another sympton I noticed was that auto start-stop started to activate a lot less frequently than usual, this happened a lot before the temp actually shot off the charts. This was happening on regular drives before I even suspected anything.

 

Anyway, I had just started my voyage when the message to pull over now came up on the Maxi-dot display. I did and limped back home with a few breaks to let the engine cool as needed, so it wouldn't hit red.

Did some digging and found these forums so I was pretty certain what's up ahead and indeed it was the water pump.

 

I bought the car at around 120 000 km and drove perhaps ~150 km before this happened.

The seller used it before me for a couple of weeks and I'm actually not sure if the problem came up after I bought it or before, since they only drove short distances so the engine didn't properly warm up I suspect. But perhaps it only broke just as I had bought it.

 

I was in a lucky situation though, as I am located in Estonia, the portal for selling adverts offers an insurance for bought cars, which I had taken.

 

This means I only had to cover 25% of the costs. The repairshop replaced water pump, generator clutch, belts, and tensioner. This would have cost me 600 €, but because of the insurance I only paid 150 €. This means that the failure was actually beneficial for me, because at one point I would have had to replace the belt anyway which wouldn't have cost too less.

• Year of registration

2015

• Engine

2.0 TDI vRS

• Mileage when fault occurred

60,000 Miles

• Dealer name & response (i.e. "don't want to know"/"yep, they all do that"/other)

Skoda Cardiff. No comment on it really, just it needed to be done..

• Warranty or goodwill contribution?

No. Outside of warranty.

• Any other info. (Full Skoda service history/independent?)

Wanted to charge me £636.00 to replace it. I've taken it back, I know a couple of garages in the area I can take it to and ask them to carry out the work. I'm sure it's going to be a damn sight cheaper than £636! Will update once I've done that.

On 17/08/2020 at 20:38, 00Tom said:

• Year of registration

2015

• Engine

2.0 TDI vRS

• Mileage when fault occurred

60,000 Miles

• Dealer name & response (i.e. "don't want to know"/"yep, they all do that"/other)

Skoda Cardiff. No comment on it really, just it needed to be done..

• Warranty or goodwill contribution?

No. Outside of warranty.

• Any other info. (Full Skoda service history/independent?)

Wanted to charge me £636.00 to replace it. I've taken it back, I know a couple of garages in the area I can take it to and ask them to carry out the work. I'm sure it's going to be a damn sight cheaper than £636! Will update once I've done that.

 

I'm not sure about pricing in the UK, but I suspect it is similar amount, except in pounds. So it depends what they suggested to replace. Read my post above to see what they replaced for me and it cost ~600 € for me too, but if you use it to also replace belts etc too, then it might not be too bad. Although it could be a little early for that, I reckon it would be better to do it anyway because a big part of the cost is labor for disassembling the engine bay.

11 hours ago, kalaluuryytel said:

 

I'm not sure about pricing in the UK, but I suspect it is similar amount, except in pounds. So it depends what they suggested to replace. Read my post above to see what they replaced for me and it cost ~600 € for me too, but if you use it to also replace belts etc too, then it might not be too bad. Although it could be a little early for that, I reckon it would be better to do it anyway because a big part of the cost is labor for disassembling the engine bay.

 

That price was just for the waterpump. They then wanted me to change a load of other things, oil, air con etc. as a service.. so it would have been up in the 700 mark somewhere.

 

A mate of mine recommended a garage, had a chat with them. Got it booked in next week to replace the pump, cam belt and oil and filter too. All for £561, works for me! Been borrowing my brother in laws Audi TT.. can't wait to get back in my vRS.

• Year of registration

• 2015

• Engine

• 2.0 TDI vRS

• Mileage when fault occurred

• 59,300 Miles

• Dealer name & response (i.e. "don't want to know"/"yep, they all do that"/other)

• Taking it to an independent as I'm not paying £549 for cambelt and pump.

• Any other info. (Full Skoda service history/independent?)

• Full service history, 1st at Skoda the rest elsewhere. 

 

I knew it was coming as I was planning on getting the work done at the end of this month, stupid car has other plans though 🤦🏼‍♂️

 

Tempted to take it to we buy any car instead and put a deposit down on a Type R or i30N 😂

• Year of registration: 2015 (65 plate)
• Engine: 2.0 TDI vRS 184
• Mileage when fault occurred: 51,400 Miles
• Dealer name & response (i.e. "don't want to know"/"yep, they all do that"/other): Funnily enough the car was booked in to an independent VAG specialist for timing, cambelt and water pump at the end of this month as its due. £440 all in.
• Any other info. (Full Skoda service history/independent?): 3 first services up carried out by Skoda with previous owner and then the rest carried out by myself.

The car did a lot of short journeys since April as I took additional job as delivery driver to support the family during covid. Recently after driving for about 5 minutes (first start up of the day) the coolant temp gauge in the car shown 90 deg c but then 1 minute later started rising past 90 deg c which was odd as it never happened before. I pulled over, waited for couple of minutes and then temperature dropped back to 90 deg c and stayed there until the end of the night. I have plugged in my OBD reader the next morning and took the car for a drive and same thing happened. Temp shot up to 110 deg c, dropped down and stayed there until the rest of the day. It seems like its fine after the car warms up properly? I have also noticed that the fuel economy drops significantly during that first 5-10 minutes of the drive until the engine temp rises beyond 90 deg and drops back down. I have drove the car last night aswell and the temp went to 118 deg c on my OBD reader so after getting back home it got parked up and will not be driven until fixed.

 

I know its another topic but does anyone know what the pressure on the fuel pressure rail should be as I had a reading of about 1700 bar recently under full load?

 

Thanks!

 

Maciej

3 hours ago, MaciejO said:

• Year of registration: 2015 (65 plate)
• Engine: 2.0 TDI vRS 184
• Mileage when fault occurred: 51,400 Miles
• Dealer name & response (i.e. "don't want to know"/"yep, they all do that"/other): Funnily enough the car was booked in to an independent VAG specialist for timing, cambelt and water pump at the end of this month as its due. £440 all in.
• Any other info. (Full Skoda service history/independent?): 3 first services up carried out by Skoda with previous owner and then the rest carried out by myself.

The car did a lot of short journeys since April as I took additional job as delivery driver to support the family during covid. Recently after driving for about 5 minutes (first start up of the day) the coolant temp gauge in the car shown 90 deg c but then 1 minute later started rising past 90 deg c which was odd as it never happened before. I pulled over, waited for couple of minutes and then temperature dropped back to 90 deg c and stayed there until the end of the night. I have plugged in my OBD reader the next morning and took the car for a drive and same thing happened. Temp shot up to 110 deg c, dropped down and stayed there until the rest of the day. It seems like its fine after the car warms up properly? I have also noticed that the fuel economy drops significantly during that first 5-10 minutes of the drive until the engine temp rises beyond 90 deg and drops back down. I have drove the car last night aswell and the temp went to 118 deg c on my OBD reader so after getting back home it got parked up and will not be driven until fixed.

 

I know its another topic but does anyone know what the pressure on the fuel pressure rail should be as I had a reading of about 1700 bar recently under full load?

 

Thanks!

 

Maciej

You may find that answer in here...

820433_EA288.pdf

having a read through this topic it seems a fairly common problem with VAG engines and water pump failures. At the moment i don't have (touch wood) a problem with high coolant temps or coolant leaks but in the near future I will be replacing my timing belt and water pump (i always replace the pump when doing a belt). Looking at parts prices for timing belts/kits/ water pumps it looks like you can purchase a water pump with or with out the switching part and the cost is significantly different. Someone on this post mentioned that the new water pumps come without the collar. I understand why VAG have chosen to fit this pump as it is all to do with warm up times and power losses etc etc. My question is, has anyone fitted a non switchable water pump on their engine? If a non switchable water pump is fitted then as far as i can see some of the problems that arise from this type of pump will be eliminated. I have also seen a you tube video of someone doing this and they fit a non switchable pump and then just swapped the solenoid over from the old pump to the new so that the ecu thinks/knows the solenoid is still in circuit but it will not have any effect on the water pump.

12 minutes ago, skodavia said:

having a read through this topic it seems a fairly common problem with VAG engines and water pump failures. At the moment i don't have (touch wood) a problem with high coolant temps or coolant leaks but in the near future I will be replacing my timing belt and water pump (i always replace the pump when doing a belt). Looking at parts prices for timing belts/kits/ water pumps it looks like you can purchase a water pump with or with out the switching part and the cost is significantly different. Someone on this post mentioned that the new water pumps come without the collar. I understand why VAG have chosen to fit this pump as it is all to do with warm up times and power losses etc etc. My question is, has anyone fitted a non switchable water pump on their engine? If a non switchable water pump is fitted then as far as i can see some of the problems that arise from this type of pump will be eliminated. I have also seen a you tube video of someone doing this and they fit a non switchable pump and then just swapped the solenoid over from the old pump to the new so that the ecu thinks/knows the solenoid is still in circuit but it will not have any effect on the water pump.

 

I had a non-switchable fitted on my 2014 Leon TDI in March due to the electric widget on my other one sticking and having overheat issues. Had the timing belt done at the same time (99,000 miles). Also had thermostat and housing changed as a precaution and also heater matrix as that was causing separate issues. 

 

The pictures show the sticky widget (the silver `collar`) and the other one is the instructions that show how you attach the solenoid to the new pump. I've had no issues with it since.

10 minutes ago, BillyCool said:

 

I had a non-switchable fitted on my 2014 Leon TDI in March due to the electric widget on my other one sticking and having overheat issues. Had the timing belt done at the same time (99,000 miles). Also had thermostat and housing changed as a precaution and also heater matrix as that was causing separate issues. 

 

The pictures show the sticky widget (the silver `collar`) and the other one is the instructions that show how you attach the solenoid to the new pump. I've had no issues with it since.

Thanks Billycool that is good info. Have you noticed any difference in engine warm up etc with the non switchable water pump? i just cant justify putting something back in that is known to fail.

Just now, skodavia said:

Thanks Billycool that is good info. Have you noticed any difference in engine warm up etc with the non switchable water pump? i just cant justify putting something back in that is known to fail.

 

Can't say I've noticed much difference with warm up times. Possibly a bit slower by 2 or 3 mins but not a lot. I still have heat in the cabin after 5 mins. The switchable pump was designed to exclude the radiator circuit and just use the smaller engine circuit to get up to temp quicker. Like you said, it was to help with emissions etc but a flawed design.

 

That's why I didn't put another switchable one back in. Like my mechanic said, they subsequently designed a non-switchable `option` for a reason!

 

 

 

 

thanks for the info!

On 03/12/2020 at 10:37, BillyCool said:

 

Can't say I've noticed much difference with warm up times. Possibly a bit slower by 2 or 3 mins but not a lot. I still have heat in the cabin after 5 mins. The switchable pump was designed to exclude the radiator circuit and just use the smaller engine circuit to get up to temp quicker. Like you said, it was to help with emissions etc but a flawed design.

 

That's why I didn't put another switchable one back in. Like my mechanic said, they subsequently designed a non-switchable `option` for a reason!

 

 

 

 

Other suppliers did, the OE haven't (I work for the OE manufacturer) It isn't advisable to fit the non shrouded version as they are also complementary to the DPF system (we have an ex VAG master tech that works here who knows a lot about these)

 

A high proportion of repeat failures of these pumps is usually down to the installation. The collar should not be moved before it is installed a sit can damage the seals and lead to it running off centre causing it to stick.

 

If you have the switchable pump you can unplug the solenoid (as that is all it is) and it will revert to its normal fail safe state of uncovered.

18 hours ago, octyal said:

Other suppliers did, the OE haven't (I work for the OE manufacturer) It isn't advisable to fit the non shrouded version as they are also complementary to the DPF system (we have an ex VAG master tech that works here who knows a lot about these)

 

A high proportion of repeat failures of these pumps is usually down to the installation. The collar should not be moved before it is installed a sit can damage the seals and lead to it running off centre causing it to stick.

 

If you have the switchable pump you can unplug the solenoid (as that is all it is) and it will revert to its normal fail safe state of uncovered.

 

Thanks for the insight. I've only been guided by my mechanic and by TPS offering him the `revised` version. Hopefully it will be fine.

 

 

ive had a water pump changed under warranty   2016 2 litre Scout  56000 miles 

 

but the problem was contaminated coolant (not the silica bag )  it appears that a number of engines had the casting sand left in the block . This causes the pump to try to circulate sludge

Its a known VAG issue ..

Hi mine's and developed these symptoms as discussed.

2014 cr tdi 150 se

124554 

Dm Keith hull

Said unlikely due to age of car and 90 quid diagnostic.

300 plus to change at an Indy.

Symptoms as discussed, water going up and down etc............

Pump was changed at 24k bout 2 years old.

Due now really anyway.

Still not good, spoke to the pump last got revised in March 2020 so this issue is still alive and kicking.

But hopefully this pump should solve it by now.

2014 Octavia 2.0TDI

 

First pump failed in 2018 100,000km

I fitted an aftermarket pump with no shield to fail again.

 

Last night, wife had symptoms of pump failure on her way home from work!...…...

 

Now on 145000km.

 

With regard to shield being needed for the DPF Regen, Regen only takes place when engine is warm/up to temperature anyway so I'm not convinced not having a shield would matter.  IMO it is purely to warm up as quickly as possible reducing emissions. 

Hi, can anyone confirm that I will not get an error code caused by not plugging the new water pump in to the wiring loom?  It's getting fitted tomorrow.  I'm not doing it myself this time - I just don't have the space unfortunately 

1 minute ago, Beefster said:

Hi, can anyone confirm that I will not get an error code caused by not plugging the new water pump in to the wiring loom?  It's getting fitted tomorrow.  I'm not doing it myself this time - I just don't have the space unfortunately 

 

Do you mean a new pump without the electronic widget?

27 minutes ago, BillyCool said:

 

Do you mean a new pump without the electronic widget?

No, I mean fit a new pump that has the shield/solenoid, but not connect the solenoid into the loom.  As far as I am aware, the shield is in the normally open/hot position and the solenoid closes it for cold start.  Thanks