2 hours ago, travs said:

So

So much gloss! Looking good still. What's next lined up?

I've got a downpipe itch.

Had the itch for a while now, but tis high time I take action.

It's the last of my "improved efficiency" journey, removing the factory downpipe restriction.

Problem is APR don't do Stg 2, hence I can't get a downpipe unless I change tuners.

Given I already have APR TCU, IE Intercooler and Racingline intake, I'm currently researching the following potential options:-

1. Get IE downpipe and switch to IE Stg 2 ECU

2. Get IE downpipe and switch to Galano ECU tune

Talking to my Euro specialist, about pricing & options.

Should complement nicely my existing RPM Performance Resonator Delete pipe.

Will see....

Edited 21 July, 202521 Jul by JR RS

Spring has arrived, so it was a good reason to wash Gandalf, after a long overdue 5 month draught, and take some updated pics afterwards.

Some rolling shots...

Edited 22 September, 202522 Sep by JR RS

Definitely a stunner there pal, lovely shots.

What's the sitch on your downpipe desires btw?

3 hours ago, travs said:

Definitely a stunner there pal, lovely shots.

What's the sitch on your downpipe desires btw?

Thanks @travs

I've decided to go with Option #2 - IE downpipe and switch to Galano ECU tune with TCU tune.

Spoke to my tuner guys at length and we felt this would b the best way forward for Gandalf.

The work will b carried out towards the end of Oct - I'm really looking forward to it.

Will be interesting to read for sure!

the cross over has been done!!! woOot

switched ECU and TCU tunes from APR to Galano so i could satisfy my downpipe itch.

Gandalf is now running Galano Stage 2, producing 241 kw 516 Nm (at the wheels) on the dyno.

comparison of dyno numbers below.

torque is down but that's because i had the "Hi-torque" version of the APR tune before.

APR stopped doing Stage 2 many many years ago, which meant no APR downpipe options.

hence my switch to Galano so i could get the IE downpipe.

its only Day 1, so i haven't had a chance to properly test it out, but initial thoughts r:-

• car throttle response is a lot more eager, likely due to the IE downpipe with less restriction.

• the take-off/launch is much much better thanks to Galano's "boost-by-gear" trickery for FWD cars like mine.

• car keeps giving more power as i go up the rev range

• the exhaust note, thanks to the addition of the IE downpipe with the RPM resonator delete pipe, is much better now on idle and sounds really nice when giving it the beans!!
  will try get a sound clip soon.

• compared to the APR TCU tune, the Galano TCU tune holds the gears a bit longer. i'll need to get used to this. gear changes r still smooth, upshifting or downshifting.

Dyno lines explained.....

1. Green - factory setup with Racing Line Intake and Turbo Inlet Pipe - 178 kw / 380 Nm

2. Blue - APR Stg 1 ECU (Hi-torque) + TCU tunes with Racing Line Intake and Turbo Inlet Pipe - 221 kw / 519 Nm

3. Purple - APR Stg 1 ECU (Hi-torque) + TCU tunes with Racing Line Intake, Turbo Inlet Pipe, IE Intercooler and downpipe - 234 kw / 503 Nm

4. Red - Galano Stg 2 ECU + TCU tunes with Racing Line Intake, Turbo Inlet Pipe, IE Intercooler and downpipe - 241 kw / 515 Nm

with 1 & 2, u can see Gandalf running out of puff much earlier, compared to 3 & 4 where it is holding for longer, thanks to the intercooler.

NOTE: these r "at the wheels" power reading, not the engine.

Edited 23 October, 202523 Oct by JR RS

Awesome stuff pal; glad it was as you hoped. That’s a decent boost of power too - very unexpected to the casual onlooker I bet

On 18/08/2024 at 11:43, JR RS said:

Gandalf's latest "project" is complete....Front Grille DRL light bar.

 

 

Towards the end of last year Skoda released the new Kodiaq which has the front grille light stripe - I saw that and I decided that's my new project.

The new mk4 Kodiaq...

 

Been planning this since last year.

I'm happy with how it's turned out.

 

The light bar is connected to and controlled by  the BCM, so it dims and brightens like the factory DRL, with the same coding.  I used an empty lighting channel, Leuchte8F LB39. 

 

The front grille has an opening that is perfectly in line with the headlight's DRL - so perfect alignment for the light bar.

 

The light bar I made myself, using an LED strip, a plastic holder, and a light diffuser.

 

Fingers crossed that the light bar hold up against the elements.

 

The light bar I made...

 

Test fitting the clips to hold the light bar behind the grille.

 

Mounted and wiring routed on the bumper to use the same path as the factory PDC and headlight washer wiring.

 

 

Wiring from BCM was routed through the firewall, into the engine bay, they down to the factory wiring harness for the PDC and headlight washer.

 

 

 

First post here. Like the mods you have done to the car and this one stood out for me, looking to try to do this myself soon.

Could you go into more detail about the wiring part of this project, example the connectors u have used as they look like oem to me, but mainly the wiring diagram for this from the BCM pins etc, so that the bars work inline with the DRLs as u stated.

I have obd11 that i think can do the coding part as u have pics of that aswell, my car is MY16 (could be difference in BCM to your MY17? car)

Is there any other difference, if using the supplied 14pin connector straight from headlight, other than no dimming function if i decide go that route rather than BCM wiring?

Placed an order on Ali for the golf mk6 gti bars, were on sale too for 80€

On 15/12/2025 at 00:58, Sane420 said:

First post here. Like the mods you have done to the car and this one stood out for me, looking to try to do this myself soon.

Could you go into more detail about the wiring part of this project, example the connectors u have used as they look like oem to me, but mainly the wiring diagram for this from the BCM pins etc, so that the bars work inline with the DRLs as u stated.

I have obd11 that i think can do the coding part as u have pics of that aswell, my car is MY16 (could be difference in BCM to your MY17? car)

Is there any other difference, if using the supplied 14pin connector straight from headlight, other than no dimming function if i decide go that route rather than BCM wiring?

Placed an order on Ali for the golf mk6 gti bars, were on sale too for 80€

with regards to connectors i used, i'll get that for u soon, but essentially i got them from AliExpress.

with regards to the BCM pins, have a read here - its a discussion i started in another forum that goes through in great detail about the process i went through to determine the right BCM pin to use.

in my case, i ended up using LB39 on the B-Connector.

speaking of BCM - there r differences between MY16 and MY17 control modules!! MY15 and MY16 had the "early" setup.

Skoda changed it from MY17, until MY20, when it changed again when the mk3 facelift Superb was released.

for example, MY15 & MY16 has module 55-headlights for headlights & DRL stuff.

MY17 onwards, this was moved to module 4C-multifunction module. no more module 55.

BCM versions i believe r also different.

as a result, there will b difference in coding (OBDEleven or VCDS).

u can definitely use the 14-pin piggy-back plug that comes with the DRL light bar if u don't want to use the DRL dimming function.

by default, the DRL light bar's 14-pin plug is wired to trigger (turn on) when the low beams r turned on, i.e. Pin No. 6.

if u want, u can change it to Pin No. 10 or 12 so it triggers when the headlight DRL's r on.

difference here is that it won't dim when the headlight DRLs dim. they'll just remain at full power.

good luck with the install 👍

Edited 18 December, 202518 Dec by JR RS

20 hours ago, JR RS said:

module 4C

it is 4B

7 hours ago, Cairus said:

it is 4B

Ah yes, my bad. Typo

On 18/12/2025 at 05:05, JR RS said:

with regards to connectors i used, i'll get that for u soon, but essentially i got them from AliExpress.

with regards to the BCM pins, have a read here - its a discussion i started in another forum that goes through in great detail about the process i went through to determine the right BCM pin to use.

in my case, i ended up using LB39 on the B-Connector.

speaking of BCM - there r differences between MY16 and MY17 control modules!! MY15 and MY16 had the "early" setup.

Skoda changed it from MY17, until MY20, when it changed again when the mk3 facelift Superb was released.

for example, MY15 & MY16 has module 55-headlights for headlights & DRL stuff.

MY17 onwards, this was moved to module 4C-multifunction module. no more module 55.

BCM versions i believe r also different.

as a result, there will b difference in coding (OBDEleven or VCDS).

u can definitely use the 14-pin piggy-back plug that comes with the DRL light bar if u don't want to use the DRL dimming function.

by default, the DRL light bar's 14-pin plug is wired to trigger (turn on) when the low beams r turned on, i.e. Pin No. 6.

if u want, u can change it to Pin No. 10 or 12 so it triggers when the headlight DRL's r on.

difference here is that it won't dim when the headlight DRLs dim. they'll just remain at full power.

good luck with the install 👍

A superb thanks to you JR RS! This was very helpful info, i also found your other post on here with Apertures giving some good info about this aswell😁: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/517411-help-please-how-do-i-connect-additional-led-strip-to-existing-drls/ found the nice pdf about leutche channels in MQB platfroms that cleared up the coding and meaning of things like how to determine the BCM connector pins etc.

I will have to see what channels would be available in my BCM setup, hoping something along the lines what you figured out if the BCM connections are not too different on MY16 vs. MY17.

As for the plug option, i dont see it being too bad either if i dont want to mess with BCM or if it turns out too challenging for me.

Regarding the BCM pins i understood i need to order the pin with a small lead of wire and then extend it with a tail piece to get this done, i found 2 codes for possible options, but like you mentioned on the other post that you ordered the wrong kinds of pins first time round, would one of these part n. work for the BCM:

1.https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/000979009e-cable-line-european-union-43850.html

000 979 009 E

000 979 009

N  907 647 01

OR

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/000979009ea-cable-line-skoda-29570.html

• 000 979 009 EA

• 000 979 009 A

• N  907 647 03

And also one last note, is just the case that the BCM + line can supply all the power the led bars need? So + goes to BCM and - to any ground, or does BCM connected loops have their spesific grounding points? i assume if one were to connect a truly high power light it would need to be done via relay or extrenal modules as i cant believe the thin bcm wires can supply too much power.

Any tips for the routing of wire from BCM to engine bay and so on, or just elbow grease and a good temper? 😆 (LHD)

-S

@Sane420 - with the BCM pin, I ended up buying the B-Connector which came with the pins. This way there was no trial n error. Wasn't expensive.

AliExpress link.

With regards to the power, yeah, the BCM wire source is sufficient to power the DRL strip. Ground was taken from an existing ground point near the BCM modules.

If u want to power something bigger, like driving lights, u should use the 14-pin piggyback headlight connector and do it that way.

With the connectors in the bumper, these r the connectors I used.

AliExpress link.

With the wiring from the BCM modules to the engine bay - that was a pain to do!!

Essentially there is a rubber conduit behind the glovebox (RHD cars) that comes out on the engine firewall, behind the battery, right at the back. Battery needs to come out to reach back there. U'll also need a coat metal hanger that u can straighten up to poke the wire through the conduit.

I'll c if I can find the pics for it.

Before & After

I caught up with a fellow forum member today - seeing his car (MY18) took me back to 8 yrs ago when I picked up Gandalf (MY17).

Original factory look.

Both 162TSi Business Grey Lift back with Tech & Comfort packs.

On 20/12/2025 at 05:20, JR RS said:

@Sane420 - with the BCM pin, I ended up buying the B-Connector which came with the pins. This way there was no trial n error. Wasn't expensive.

AliExpress link.

With regards to the power, yeah, the BCM wire source is sufficient to power the DRL strip. Ground was taken from an existing ground point near the BCM modules.

If u want to power something bigger, like driving lights, u should use the 14-pin piggyback headlight connector and do it that way.

With the connectors in the bumper, these r the connectors I used.

AliExpress link.

With the wiring from the BCM modules to the engine bay - that was a pain to do!!

Essentially there is a rubber conduit behind the glovebox (RHD cars) that comes out on the engine firewall, behind the battery, right at the back. Battery needs to come out to reach back there. U'll also need a coat metal hanger that u can straighten up to poke the wire through the conduit.

I'll c if I can find the pics for it.

Thanks again JR!

Ordering the whole bcm connectror was smart, like u said no errors in connectors. All items are on order now, hopefully they will arrive next week so i can get to work on this project.

Regarding the cable passthrough to the engine bay i assume as i have a LHD car that the grommet will probably be on the drivers-side somwhere, as the battery is also located on the drivers-side.

Cheked my BCM coding and i also had the two channels available that u posted on ur earlier posts, RB2 and LB39, probably going to use the LB39 just like u did with the same codings.

I will make a post also about this with more pics and stuff when i get it done, and gather all this info to one post for easyer followups for others who want to do the same!

Merry Christmas and happy new years!

-S

Some pics (not my car) below of the cable pass through.

Shows u how it looks like, from both sides.

Good luck with the install.

Thanks. Merry Xmas & a Happy New Year to u too.

Inside...

Engine bay side....

Edited 27 December, 202527 Dec by JR RS

On 26/12/2025 at 14:46, Sane420 said:

Cheked my BCM coding and i also had the two channels available that u posted on ur earlier posts, RB2 and LB39, probably going to use the LB39 just like u did with the same codings.

Check if the corresponding pin is present on the circuit board or connector A/B/C. Just because you can code it doesn't mean the pin is on the BCM circuit board

6 hours ago, Lutz_91 said:

Check if the corresponding pin is present on the circuit board or connector A/B/C. Just because you can code it doesn't mean the pin is on the BCM circuit board

Ur NOT reading his or my posts properly at all !!!

I'm already reading it. But even you weren't entirely sure which pins the BCM actually has at first. Only after getting help did you use Leuchte8FL LB39, where that pin is located. If your BCM is different from the other user's, it could be different. There's a reason there are so many different BCM variants.

The conversion is very well done, no question.

4 minutes ago, Lutz_91 said:

I'm already reading it. But even you weren't entirely sure which pins the BCM actually has at first. Only after getting help did you use Leuchte8FL LB39, where that pin is located. If your BCM is different from the other user's, it could be different. There's a reason there are so many different BCM variants.

The conversion is very well done, no question.

Good pointing this out, i read the other posts regarding this aswell and im going in to this blindly by choice, i have not checked if the pins are even there but i will find that out soon 😅

My BCM unit is: 5Q0937084AN

Couldnt find any closeups of the pins but will post on here when i have the time to start working on the car and dismantle to see if pins are there or not.

Reason for going in blindly also is that im waiting on a quote for a VC on my car, if i get it done i will need to replace BCM anyways.

-S

That's why I wrote that you should carefully check whether the correct pins are present on the BCM board before you start tinkering.

But some people don't understand that

1 hour ago, Sane420 said:

quote for a VC on my car

What is the Problem?

15 hours ago, Cairus said:

What is the Problem?

No problem at this moment, just looking to get VC and bigger screen retrofited to my car, but the company that could do it where i live just hasn't given me and offer on the price for the job yet.

Did my interim 6-monthly service for Gandalf today.

But this time round I bought this gadget which made filling the engine with new oil so much easier and far more precise (measurement).

It holds up to 1.5L

Highly recommend it for those who perform their own oil changes.

Link to the product here.

Thanks to some wise words from a smart friend, I changed Gandalf's PCV valve.

There wasn't any issues with Gandalf, rather I replaced the PCV valve was as a preventative measure given Gandalf is 8 plus yrs old, and the various modifications over the years.

I've heard the old AT version has been known to fail.

As with new refreshed parts, car feels a bit more smoother under load/boost now.

I previously thought it was a quirk of the Galano ECU/TCU tune, but the change of the PCV valve seems to have smoothed this out.

Most likely placebo, but this a new and better revision of the PCV valve. Less problematic based on my research recently and the few techs I've spoken to.

Old:- 06K 1034 95 AT

New:- 06K 103 495 BM

Removing the old and replacing with the new was fairly straightforward.

Hardest part for me was removing the original crimp band clamp, holding the rubber hose to the PCV valve. When fitting the new, I replaced it with an OE spring band clamp - N90686701.