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Do you still have the VIN? I don't know how the Irish MoT system works or if you can search by the VIN on the Irish website. Maybe @olddog can answer that?

You might ask for @pab567's assistance.

I’m not sure either , i found out that you can fill out a form through the council and find out from them and they will tell you certain details about the car like who the last owner was and what not but you have too prove too the council why you need such information and you need a reasonable yet valid excuse and I’m not sure me saying i just wanna buy the car back is reasonable and valid enough

Might have been. Depends if the owner informed DVLA it was being exported then didnt export it or DVLA records are wrong. Not sure how you would check without v5. Alasdair

I've not come across the word gettered. Is that where the inside of the bulb's glass is covered in evaporated filament? The bulb failure monitoring electronics in the BCM should be quite sensitive, yes. Bugger all to do with the CAN bus though, the bulb clusters have no connection to it.

https://ebay.io/m/62Kr39 Once again will do a discount for any Briskoda members

Need to get underneath it. Think the pipes are around 20mm internal diameter. About to try something this weekend. Will update you if it works

So would you say it’s been moved out of the uk ?

The Export Marker is on DVLA MOT status check under vehicle details. Its usually added to vehicle details if its being or been moved outside UK. Alasdair

I’m not sure what you mean by what you have said , i just hope the cars still somewhere in England sitting somewhere rather than in Europe sitting somewhere i just hope i can buy it back

Back then ye were still in the EU. Lots & lots of used UK cars were bought by people in R of I ( driving on same side of the road 'n all that ) Is it at the back of some farm, a mile or two from Ballygobackwards with a bale of straw in the boot ? .....not a joke.....I bought a '02 UK Elegance estate in '08 'n still have it here on The Emerald Isle

Hello, I'm asking for your help because I've run out of ideas and am starting to lose hope... Recently, I've been driving my Škoda more often at night, and I've been getting countless "flashes" from oncoming drivers. I decided to investigate the issue because the headlights were not lowering their beam when the boot was loaded. Here is the situation: The headlights perform their self-test when the car is started (right, left, down, up). The headlight motor tests are completed without any problems – the motors move the light beams both up and down. Basic Settings for the headlights have been performed, and there are no fault codes. The sensor reading is 46%. When I load the boot, the sensor reading drops to 41%, when two people inside it is 42%, and go back to 46% when empty.... Unfortunately, the light beam moves upwards, and no downward correction takes place. :( I'd also like to mention that the system was working correctly 6 years ago when I bought the car, and I was really impressed with it at the time. Two years ago, I was involved in an accident. The car was repaired at an authorised Škoda service centre, and both headlights were replaced with brand-new genuine units. Additionally, I've noticed that I cannot enable the DYNAMIC CORNERING LIGHTS option in the car's infotainment settings. It switches itself off again after a few seconds. I would really appreciate any help, suggestions or advice you could offer. I'm running out of ideas and would be grateful for any pointers. Thank you in advance!

Nice to have would be my thoughts on this. My 2016 L&K 280 had DCC as standard & I use it quite a bit. I normally run the DCC in Sport mode (fairly stiff setting) but with the DSG in normal D mode. If I hit some bad road surfaces then I change DCC to Normal or possibly Comfort mode for a more compliant ride. I also do this when I have passengers in the car that might not appreciate the stiffer setting. Comfort mode does make it feel very "wallowy" though so I can't run it that mode for too long without feeling a bit sea sick!! As others have said the only downside will be the cost to replace the DCC shocks vs stock dampers. There are some after market DCC damper options now so you are not suck with OEM only. Touch wood, after 10 years my DCC still works fine.

Hi all. I've watched the vids that show how to pull off the trim pieces next to the fog lights, but mine seem to be stuck fast. I really don't want to yank on them too hard in this cold weather & risk breaking any of the securing tabs. One of the vids I watched the guy did just that & broke off the securing tabs when pulling on the the trim with a pair of pliers. Other owners have used their fingers but mine are not budging. Apart from the extra chrome bits, are the L&K front fog access trims different in the way they secure from any other models? Are there any hidden pry points etc? If anyone's got any ideas where I should be prying / pulling & with what tool to help get these trim pieces off I would much appreciate any info you can provide. Cheers.

I have it fitted in my 280 but I never change anything, I just use the default setting……normal?

The system is pretty sensitive. Pinged up number plate light on mine. Both were working but one had slight corosion. I assume it senses a difference in resistance. Alasdair

Had a look at my sons and its not the same. No quick release system. Best option would be to remove rubber seals from rear and switch lights on for a while. The heat from bulbs should dry it up. Years ago a trick if lens was glass was to put a towel over it so it heated up more and remove rubber seals at rear to vent moist air. Dont do it with plastic lenses. They tend to melt as I found out a few years ago. Alasdair

Yesterday evening I got a warning to check the right hand brake light. The handbook guided me through the dismantling process. Toolkit didn't have the necessary T20 tool. Got the whole fitting out. The handbook does not say which bulb is which, so I pulled them all it and checked them for continuity. All ok, but one was gettered. Changed it. Warning now gone. Is the CANBUS system designed to be sensitive enough to detect a failing filament? Car is 10 1/2 years old and this was the first bulb changed involuntarily.

Mine has also gone offside - 2022 Karoq. Garage stated it too needs a full unit replacement at a cost! Did not extend the 3year warranty - just done 109k miles

Hi, I have a similar issue on my Kodiaq 2020. I saw it three times. Two times after standing overnight, one time after 2 hours standing. Did you found a reason? Thanks.

Hi everyone, I have a few questions regarding my Kodiaq its a 2024 2.0 TDI 147 kW 4x4 (not the latest but the facelift from 2021-2024) and would appreciate some feedback from other owners. Third brake light: Does anyone else experience an issue where the third brake light (high-mounted brake light) briefly illuminates when using the turn signals? I noticed that on motorways in the night. Start-Stop system: Is it possible to permanently disable the Start-Stop system using OBDeleven on this models? Travel Assist: Is it possible to extend the time before Travel Assist asks me to take over steering control? At the moment, after approximately 10–15 seconds, it displays a warning asking me to take control of the steering wheel. I would like to extend this interval if possible. Can this be adjusted using OBDeleven? Thanks in advance for any advice or feedback!

My mk2 octavia is the same. Reckon its the front lens seal thats gone. On the Octavia you can remove entire unit easily. I took it in to warm house and managed to dry it up carefully in front of fire then used a thin silcone bead around lens. Been ok for a while now. It may be that the rubber covers are loose or missing at rear as well. On the Octavia you remove plastic nut and pull a lever bellow headlight and the unit pops out. Makes bulb changes so much easier. Alasdair

Reckon as its got an Export marker its left uk at some point. Maybe owners moved abroad?. It was a rare car in 2002 so must be very rare now. Does sound like a really nice car though. Hope you find it and its for sale. Alasdair

Hi, just wanted to say a big thanks for the assistance and suggestions. Unfortunately, even with my best efforts, I cannot even loosen the top and easiest accessible Tx30. According to the fault code, it should only be the actuator and wastegate arm unit that needs replacing. I'm having to bite the bullet, and book it in to my local Indie to get the job done. I have the VIN and engine code, so it should be straightforward for them to obtain the new part. Cheers, John