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That’s the point: until last week I was able to see the pressure values as on the Amundsen, then on rear wheels pressure was lower, after restoring 2/3 days later I got the message I posted above. Do I have to code again from beginning or any other idea/proposal?

Hi, did you ever resolve this? I want to remove this side airbag on octavia 2018 MK3 to re-fit the c-pillar properly but i read it is such a difficult job i dont dare remove the airbag piece and trim

There was forum discussion here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/537030-skoda-fabia-24-inspection-reset/ but I'm not sure if the advice works. There's also this YouTube video where the guidance offered is much more complex.

Hello I have big problem. Today i noticed that my oil cap is not sit properly. I see that two pins of four (marked with red on picture) are broken. I dont know how is this possible. Now i cannot tight the cap good. The cap is now holding only two pins.. The cap is not sealing. And this part is not for sale….you must buy entire valve cower becouse is integreated in cover. Is there another solution? The car is superb 2.0 tdi 2021.

I have a late 2025 1.5 Monte Carlo Edition which has just under 6000 miles on it. I had loads of electronics and mechanical issues in the first 4 months and nearly rejected the car. One of the issues is just like you say sounding like wheel spin or clutch slip pulling away. The car seems to change up from 1st to 2nd instantly when pulling away, I think it has also happened when accelerating at 40 to 50 mph. I haven't yet had any hard mechanical noises 🤞 Mine went back to the supplying dealership for three weeks in June and they ended up replacing the main ECU which stopped the majority of the problems but the gearbox still occasionally does the same thing. I have fitted an IO pedal box which connects between the throttle pedal and the car, it allowed me to dial out throttle lag which helped. I also regularly plug my OBDELEVEN 3 in clear down any codes, it seems to generate codes regularly without any dash errors showing. I think it's just common that modern cars do log random stuff. I too have had two dealerships say the sounds in the drive train are normal but I am still suspicious. Other things not related, my car has DCC and when it is in D mode the suspension is very bouncy but in S it's firm but doesn't lift off over bumps, I use individual mode with everything as per D except the suspension. The other thing is the std brakes are poor, they lack feel and response, I have fitted EBC Yellow Stuff pads and the car is transformed. In hindsight I wouldn't have bought it but my previous two Skoda's were faultless so trusted the brand.

I very vaguely remember my Mk1 Octavia timing belt change, ASV engine, also using VCDS, about 18 years ago. I also remember the graph not working for me, but that I could read injection timing in measuring blocks somewhere and set the value using the 3 bolts as per Skoda spec ( I think small amount ATDC), readout was changing when the gear was moved within the 3 bolt slots. Login 12233 might be needed. If after adjustment the timing is within spec and the engine still stutters / smokes etc, you're off by one tooth, loosen the belt and retime crankshaft, pump and camshaft again. HTH

What was the cause?

Hi everyone! I’d like to find out how to turn off the central display in a 2026 Škoda Superb L&K (with the large screen/navigation system) while keeping the media/radio playing. The display is a bit distracting when driving at night. When I turn it off—so that it shows the analog clock—the music/radio turns off as well. If I turn the brightness down to the minimum, I can no longer see the instrument cluster properly. Has anyone else encountered this issue? Thanks in advance for your help.

sadly the fuel temp sensor didn't make much difference. I'm totally stuck with AI sending me round in circles

The MIB has nothing to do with the functionality. Even with the MIB removed, it still works perfectly fine for me.

I used to use that stabiliser system until i bought a van with the alko stabiliser built in. maybe something similar is available in Australia. But i believe they have no speed restrictions on towing and usual use pick ups and bigger vehicles for towing trailers. When Škoda designed the 2014 Superb, they rated its towing capacity based on the assumption that it would be pulling a European-style trailer, not an Australian one.

Skoda Fabia 72 Reg, I tried to remove this service reminder. Pressed 00/set, turned on ignition, pressed set again, followed instructions, but it reappears. Anyone any solution. Thanks.

@pab567 Plese, can you send me the link for download in PM too? Thanky you.

Hello pab567, I also need this software. Could you please send me the link? I would really appreciate it! Best regards, Ariom25

For ease of handling trailers single-handed, I used to keep nose weight fairly low and used a hitch stabiliser instead - specifically the type that uses an adjustable single leaf and friction lining. This prevented excessive rear sag of tow vehicle and made rig totally stable for pitch and yaw, I think the brand was Bulldog.

The vinyl was **** and didn't stick to the axle, I got it on there with frog tape but it wasn't TIGHT like we needed it to be. I threw some yellow at it because, well, we're here now. and tbh it'll be perfectly fine for what i need it to do, remind me not to break this beam, after i touch it up with a black paint stick.

Not properly coded if doesn't work after mib change

I made them check by the tire guy with the instrument that activates them and he showed me they’re active; making a diagnosis with Odis the result was “system turned off” so now I have to understand how to turning it on again!

I reckon it could be retrofitted. The holder is available on Ali express. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EvrOk82 It’s 3 wires. Permanent live, permanent earth and a live which comes on with the boot opening which is probably there for your existing light. I can’t imagine the trim is much different so should be achievable.

Ahh I want better trunk light for my trunk as well.. :/ On the facelift, the light is not removable..

For anyone wanting this VW have answered our prayers. Part number 3T0947417F is from a new Tiguan, multivan or T6 caravelle and is a straight replacement but with cool white LED. Thanks @Danoid for the discovery. There’s some on eBay in the uk for around £30 and I think direct from vw would be around £60-80. Just ordered mine from eBay so will post. A pic when it arrives.

Check your sensors. If you can connect normaly to 55 module, your sensors died. Aswell had problems with faulty module and sensors from ali since get one which works

Maybe it would be better to query on an Australian caravan forum The car is capable of pulling the weight but cannot cope with that 10% nose weight. The difference in advice between countries is because of the Hitch. In the Uk the hitch head contains internal, replaceable friction pads (essentially brake pads) that clamp down hard onto the sides of the car's 50mm towball. This dampens the very first millimeter of lateral movement to physically stop the caravan from entering a high-speed sway or "snake." If your hitch mechanism is just a standard A frame directly on to the car you have a bit of an engineering dilemma to reach your 80kg nose weight. You need to adjust load backward from the front up to the axle , you should not put load behind the axle to counter. The only other option is to remove weight from the front of the trailer

@pab567 would you be able to pm me the link to the download?

I really want to keep the rear boxes As I’m hoping to keep a mega deep sound from it Resonator delete be ok