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My alarm sounded one afternoon and I unlocked and locked the car. As a precaution I used a vacuum cleaner and used the brush tool and sucked the vents near the interior light switches. Might have sucked out an insect as no more alarm sounding since

@riby Did the dealer provide a second key FOC?

hi can anyone help me with my skoda rapid spaceback 2017 1.4tdi diesel . showing code PO2990Turbo underboost. Ive done a smoke test all clear, dpf checked, regenerated in the last 30 days. no power in the car. Any advice would be grateful

There's a helpful chap goes by the name of Pete who might know a thing or two about it. @Breezy_Pete

Yes. If it works mine will look the same.

Hi everyone, I have a 2001 Skoda Fabia Mk1 1.9 SDI Classic with A/C. It is a very basic model, currently equipped with manual front windows and manual mirrors. I'm looking into retrofitting the OEM electric front windows and electric mirrors using parts from a suitable donor Fabia, preferably an early Mk1 with the same generation of Comfort system as my 2001 car. So far, my plan is to source from a donor: front left and right electric window regulators + motors the corresponding door control modules (J386/J387, if applicable) front door wiring looms window switches / switch panels electric mirrors mirror adjustment switch the relevant body-side wiring between the A-pillars and the Comfort module the donor's J393 Comfort/Convenience module, if required I have been studying the wiring diagrams, but I have a few things I would really like to confirm before buying and dismantling a donor. 1. Body-side wiringThis is probably my biggest question. I understand that the door wiring harness itself is relatively straightforward: the door loom connects through the A-pillar to the vehicle-side wiring. However, I'm trying to understand what happens on the vehicle side of the A-pillar connector. Does the wiring from the A-pillar to the J393 form a separate branch of the body/interior harness, or is it integrated into the main dashboard/body wiring harness? In other words, if I find a suitable donor, can I remove: J393 → relevant body wiring → left/right A-pillar connectors without having to remove the entire dashboard wiring harness? Or are the wires for the electric windows/door modules integrated into a larger common harness with other vehicle systems? If anyone has pictures of the body-side wiring / A-pillar connectors from a factory electric-window Fabia, that would be extremely helpful. 2. Comfort moduleMy current understanding is that the early Fabia uses the J393 Comfort module together with the front door control modules. My current car obviously has a Comfort module already, since it has central locking, but I'm not sure whether the module fitted to a basic Classic is capable of supporting electric windows/mirrors. Would I need to replace my J393 with the module from the donor? Or does the existing module already support the necessary functions and only the additional wiring/door modules are missing? If a replacement J393 is required, are there specific part numbers/revisions I should look for? 3. Electric window systemFrom the wiring diagrams it looks like the electric window motors are associated with the door control modules, rather than being controlled directly by the J393. So am I correct in thinking that if I take the complete electric-window hardware from the donor — including the motor/regulator, door control module and door loom — I don't need any additional window controller elsewhere in the car? 4. Electric mirrorsIs the electric mirror adjustment controlled by the relevant door control module, or is there another separate mirror control module? My assumption at the moment is that I can take the complete electric mirrors, mirror switch and the necessary wiring from the donor and connect them to the appropriate door module/loom. 5. Compatibility / donor yearMy car is from 2001, so I understand that there was a change in the Fabia Comfort system around 2004. I have seen references to the earlier Comfort CAN system and later LIN-based systems. Therefore, should I specifically look for a pre-08/2004 donor to avoid mixing the two generations? Would a 2002/2003/early-2004 electric-window Fabia be the safest donor for my 2001 car? 6. Remote central lockingMy current key is only a normal mechanical key — I don't have a remote-control key. If I install a donor J393 that supports remote central locking, would I later be able to have a genuine OEM remote key programmed/adapted to the car? I'm not particularly interested in the remote key at the moment, but if the correct Comfort module is already being installed, I'd like to retain the possibility of adding it later. Also, does changing the J393 have any effect on the immobiliser, or are the immobiliser and remote-locking functions separate? My current ideaMy ideal retrofit would basically be: Donor: J393 relevant body-side wiring both front door looms J386/J387 electric window regulators + motors window switches electric mirrors mirror switch Then transfer these to my 2001 Classic and connect everything using the factory connectors/wiring. I'm hoping this can be done mostly OEM / plug-and-play, rather than running completely new wiring from scratch. If anyone has actually done this retrofit on a Fabia Mk1 that originally had manual windows, I'd really appreciate hearing exactly what you had to change. Especially interested in: exact parts required J393 part numbers J386/J387 part numbers wiring diagrams A-pillar/body-side wiring donor year/spec VCDS coding/adaptation anything that turned out to be unexpectedly different between manual and electric-window cars Thanks in advance! Any information, photos or part numbers would be hugely appreciated.

And the winner was the older car, for the simple reason, the other one was sold before I could make my mind up. I just need to sell my 2014 Focus Zetec diesel, anyone interested? Thanks for all your input.

It depends on the LED. But 5V works—that's correct OEM is just a neat solution, I think.

Yes of course. Difficult to judge tone through text. 😃 I took a judgement on cost and hassle vs reward and chose to try out a cheap option. If the brackets had fit, it would have meant I ended up with OEM brackets and lights and if I wanted to upgrade to OEM I would add radars and wiring loom. Chatted it through with @Cairus and seeing others who have done it I think the coding for OEM is beyond my remit. Next project is all OEM! 😉

OEM led are 5v 2 wire. Ali express kit is 5v 2 wire. I’ve bought a spare set of plugs and will plug them in and see how it goes.

They can do whatever they want. I’m still entitled to my opinion, though. I upgraded from the OEM 5Q0 to the 2Q0 myself, so I know exactly what the job entails

That is, provided the control units can actually drive the OEM LEDs. Since it’s not the OEM control unit, you don’t know how the LED is powered

Not an old debate but industry data coming out all the time. Data from a few weeks combining several large studies of car fires, first webpage below .... Simple summary is that EV fires are far less common, by a factor of as much as 80 but when they do go, if not checked by the standard fire fighting tech for EVs ie fire blanket, then consequences can be bad. EV fire blankets are now big business ie multi million pound business in many countries and supported by numerous industry big firms. One of our multi million pound UK firms is Fire Cloak of Sheffield. Link and demo of use below the EV fire risk data webpage... Energy Saving TrustAre electric vehicles a fire risk?Current research indicates that the chance of an electric vehicle catching fire is considerably lower than petrol or diesel vehicles.Fire Cloak™Fire Cloak™ – EV Fire Blanket – Contain Lithium Battery F...Protect against EV fires with Fire Cloak™, the electrical vehicle fire blanket that deploys in seconds, contains lithium battery fires, and safeguards people, vehicles and property.

Plan is to loosely fit the led that came with the kit near the a pillar inside. Then if it works well enough I’ll replace with led in the mirror housings for OEM look.

And 2 Warning LED each Side ^^

Hi! I tried but nothing; any other suggestions?

Dankuwel! Ik denk dak even wacht en het dan probeer😅

You’re more than welcome to for your car. This is my project to pass the time as my hobby on my car. If it works great. If not then I haven’t wasted a lot of money. It’s a nice to have. All of it is reversible.

In that case, I'd rather have OEM control units than the AliExpress knock-offs

Today I started the blind spot detection project. Trying out a basic AliExpress kit for £50 rather than OEM for £500. Bumper is a pain to remove thanks to two awkwardly angled torx screws under the wheel arch which requires the car jacked up to access. First problem after that was that the OEM radar brackets I bought from eBay to make mounting the radars easier didn’t fit. Turns out I had bought hatchback ones rather than estate so they didn’t fit! A bit of fettling and the brackets that came with the kit were made to fit, mounted onto one of the studs that holds the plastic trim on. All set to the correct angle. Cables routed into the car through a couple of grommets. Bumper back on and that’s the first stage done.

Today I started the blind spot detection project. Trying out a basic AliExpress kit for £50 rather than OEM for £500. Bumper is a pain to remove thanks to two awkwardly angled torx screws under the wheel arch which requires the car jacked up to access. First problem after that was that the OEM radar brackets I bought from eBay to make mounting the radars easier didn’t fit. Turns out I had bought hatchback ones rather than estate so they didn’t fit! A bit of fettling and the brackets that came with the kit were made to fit, mounted onto one of the studs that holds the plastic trim on. All set to the correct angle. Cables routed into the car through a couple of grommets. Bumper back on and that’s the first stage done.

Or you can go "All in" With an All-in Plan you can relax in the knowledge that you'll get two services, two MOTs, two years' Roadside Assistance, plus a free Warranty (when it's over 3yo)worth £626** for £959.76 Valid for vehicles with a 2.0L engine or less and under 100,000 miles at activation. Excludes electric vehicles and vehicles with an existing Service Plan. Vehicles that have been out of a warranty (that has been provided by Skoda UK or Skoda Financial Services) for more than 30 days will have a no-claim period of 30 days at the start of their All-in Plan. Volkswagen Group provides the All-in Warranty free of charge following purchase of an All-in Plan. The All-in Warranty does not cover any vehicle already covered under any other guarantee, insurance, warranty and/or gesture of goodwill. All-in Plan validity is dependent on required payments received. Škoda Financial Services.

@ilkosl thanks, this is exactly the kind of detailed reply I was hoping for — really helpful. First, answers to your questions: Roof bars — I only removed the crossbars; the longitudinal rails are factory-fitted and still on. Good point about the end caps, I'll tape those. Panoramic roof — no. Tow bar — yes, factory tow bar, but it was retracted during all my tests. Wheels — 16", never changed (205/60 R16). Grille shutter — I had a good look and I don't think I have one. I can't see any shutter mechanism or actuator behind the lower grille, just the radiator/intercooler directly. I'll confirm via VIN/PR codes through my dealer, but visually it doesn't look like I have active shutters. If that holds, the shutter can't be our common cause, since I get the drone without it. Dealer — yes, they drove it with me. The mechanic just said "it's the tyres" by ear, nothing measured. So I swapped the complete wheel set (summer → winter) myself — drone unchanged, same 129 Hz. No TPI/bulletin result was ever mentioned. I've since sent them a written report with the frequency analysis and asked them to escalate to Škoda and check for other reported cases. Two things seem to line up across the affected cars, and I'd like to narrow them down: DSG — mine is DSG (DQ381). Is everyone with the drone on DSG? Engine power — mine is 110 kW (150 PS). Can those of you with the drone confirm your output? @Gogich thanks — your 85 kW manual with no drone is a really useful data point. If it turns out everyone affected is 110 kW + DSG + Combi and the manual/lower-power cars are clear, that's a very specific pattern to take to Škoda. The higher-output DSG version has more to cool up front (gearbox oil cooler, higher heat load), which could change the airflow/thermal picture at speed on hot days — and would fit the temperature dependence without needing the shutter theory. Mine measures a fixed 129 Hz — if anyone can record and FFT theirs, let's see if we all land on the same frequency. Please do try the recording if you can; two or three independent measurements at 129 Hz in different countries would be very hard for Škoda to dismiss.

and this

Klopt! En ik vermoed zelf van niet. Worst case doen ze een update van je MIB en overschrijven ze de boel. Dan moet je gewoon het gehele proces opnieuw doen. Het is maar een vermoeden dus als je nog garantie hebt en je wil het risico niet lopen, zou ik nog effe wachten 😄