All Activity

No. Use the two holes that are covered by the rubber access seals that you have already removed in the photo above. Unless they are missing? Thanks. AG Falco

@Lord_Moppy thanks for the info - that issue does sound very similar. Not sure why the instrument cluster specialist didn't pick this up (although problem had gone away - did think their diagnostic techniques would factor this in though as I told them its cold start problem). Thanks for the part numbers too, will find someone to replace them (assuming its not a DIY job). Trying to avoid going down the route of replacing the cluster and having to find someone to recode it. I'll report back when I get round to doing it. Thanks again - much appreciated.

From memory, anything below 8 mOhms is ok.

Resistance not a little high? For comparison i tested the same battery in a friends car but a year older. His read over 600 amps and a resistance of 3.7 millohms.

I have used a smart charger a few times. Didn’t make any difference, offen says the battery is full after only 30-40 mins.

38% health while SOC at >95% is pretty low and tends to suggest your battery is suffering from hard sulphation - which will probably not be fully reversible. Internal res looks OK. A recovery charge programme may help, but approaching winter could well finish it off.

Hi! Ive been working on the same type of project. Are you looking for contributors for the iOS side of things? Ive done some research and i have a working demo for iOS client.

It would come up as one of the selection you get by pressing the rocker switch on end of wiper stalk, mpg, outside temp etc. I think.

Don’t think I can but not 100 percent sure how would I even go about doing that

Tried to move it, i think the front brakes are well bound up now. yay. in BEST news the gear shift was a bit stiff and then it went POP and now the gear lever wobbles around freely, it will select gears but something's popped off in an annoying way. You fix 7 things and another 10 go wrong. Maybe 28 year old cars aren't the best when all you have a drive way and not much free time. I might try and DRAG it up some ramps and have a crawl under it again.

I can't seem to find it in the parts catalogue for your VIN, but I think you need to look anyway, may be able to see wiring going to it down the back of the sump, from engine bay if it's present. Can you display oil temperature on the cluster display?

Expose those black/yellow wires from destination (MAF etc.) to the 14 way connector until something is visible. If you let me know the VIN, I can look up whether your car has the oil level/temp sensor. I'll message you to ask for it.

I’ll have to check if I have a sensor in the sump because I’m not 100 percent sure but it’s bloody rattling it down so it’s making this 10x harder but thanks how would I go about checking for that short

0.1 is basically a dead short, so if that was with MAF and PAS 4-way (not the big two-way one) connectors unplugged , and you haven't got a sensor in the bottom of the sump, then there is a wiring short somewhere.

I had both the power steering and the maf disconnected at one point and the number hovered about 0.1 then with the maf connected about the same and same again

Yep. 🙂

Skoda Superb Mark II 2014. Just back from the MOT so maybe a mechanic moved something. But when cabin climate fan turned on, this clicking noise begins. Seems to be coming from under the foot well. Disappears when fan turned off. If fan speed increased it can turn into a whining sound. Debris in a filter? Bearing of some type? Something loose? How can I explore further? Many, many thanks. IMG_1913.mov

That’s the maf isn’t it?

Press the hold button again and it will go back to displaying live reading. Start with MAF connected. Show me a pic of 'sensor connected to airbox' please, so I can check what it is.

must of been an accident didn’t even know what that meant do you also mean unplugging the sensor connected to the airbox

The H on the left of the display suggests that you have pressed Hold. Deliberate to show me reading, or accidentally?

@chetski I recently came across this video in a timeline; I think it should be a good fit. Spareparts: D 16V 150uF 157C B 10V 22UF 226A

Yes, pin 11 of the male connector, if that was the one that measured 0V on first test. Is that with MAF connected or unplugged?

Here I have attached a photo of my multimeter

Buy yourself a CTEK MXS 5.0 Battery Charger Run it on the Recond option. Brought my battery back to life after suffering similar issues to your own, and it's worked flawlessly since