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Hello guys, what’s happening for all of you with this problem. Mine has been back with the retailer for many weeks awaiting replies from Škoda Tech Support! Yes we should all approach the motor ombudsman as a collective and the motor trade press.

EFB batteries are better in warm climate, AGM batteries are better in cold climate. AGM can degrade under the hood and engine bay, where temperatures are high in summer. EFB can degrade in winter cold.

Process is similar and as simple for car scanner. I’m away at the minute but can provide instructions if required later in the week.

I didn’t even know this battery existed, nor what kind of battery it was. There were no symptoms or signs that anything was wrong, so I had no reason to investigate. The technicians replaced it during a scheduled service—presumably as a precautionary measure, given that the car is approaching its four-year mark. I can’t say how difficult or easy the replacement was, as I wasn’t present and was only informed about it afterward. I believe, however—though I’m not 100% certain—that they mentioned it’s located in the front overhead light console. Now, regarding the main issue let me clarify a few points about the problem and how I perceive it… The symptom occurs occasionally when the car starts moving from a standstill with low RPM and light throttle. Just as you’d expect the initial engagement to be complete—and as you have just released the clutch pedal—the car sometimes hesitates, which the passengers perceive as jerk. I’m not sure if this is due to the clutch itself, some poorly optimized engine mapping, or a combination of both. The truth is, this isn’t a major issue, nor is it something that can’t be overcome by slightly adjusting how you pull away. If, at the moment you assumed the car has started moving, you hold the clutch pedal for just a fraction of a second longer instead of releasing it completely, while simultaneously applying a tiny bit more throttle, the car will pull away just fine. The challenge is that over the years we’ve developed an instinctive, fixed sequence of movements. It can be difficult to adapt, especially for those who frequently drive different vehicles or who only get behind the wheel of the Fabia on rare occasions. As I mentioned earlier, replacing the clutch master cylinder helped a bit. It didn’t change the inherent behavior of the clutch or the engine, rather the slight earlier in engagement point along the pedal’s travel automatically altered the instinctive movement of the foot. Previously, the clutch engaged quite high making it feel "natural" to release the pedal entirely the moment the car began to move. Now, because there is still more pedal travel left when the car starts moving, you end up withdrawing your foot with less abruptness. In other words, the situation improves simply due to the bigger pedal travel... In fact, if you keep in mind that you should also apply a tiny bit more throttle at that specific moment, the problem is resolved completely and permanently. I think this issue has been blown out of proportion... Personally, while I had noticed it before, I didn't even consider it serious enough to address. I simply mentioned it as an observation to the technician during the service.

v1. I get an error on versions above 31.64 Software update stoppedPlease plug the data carrier back in. The system will probably reboot

Is this a RHD car? If so, do you currently have motor module part number 6Y2959802A, SK240D4DRS (both numbers matching totally) fitted on driver's door? These are extremely rare, so I'd imagine you have an incorrect part there. Do you still have the original one? If LHD it should be 6Y1959801A, SK240D4DLS on driver's door instead.

@kbudaj - the main reason for the battery adaptation (registration) is so that ur telling the car a new battery has been installed. overtime, the car's charging behaviour changes to suit an aging/dying battery. when u replace it with a new one, the battery adaptation process resets the charging behaviour to a "new" (fresh) state. as explained well by @SparePartAlam - the car will operate & function like normal if no battery adaptation process is carried out after a battery change is done. rather the battery adaptation is for the longevity of the battery life, over time. i personally use OBDeleven. these were the instructions i made for battery adaptation:- @Bap33 - absolutely no issues whatsoever with going from EFB to AGM, or vice versa, provide u perform the battery adaptation procedure and chang the battery technology to either Fleece (AGM) or EFB. i ran EFB+ batteries for the first 7 yrs. the last 3 yrs i've been running AGM.

the DQ250 6-DSG transmission can handle a lot of torque. my 220ps Superb with the DQ250 previously ran a Stg 1 Hi-Torque tune, producing 532 Nm at the wheels torque. ran that for 4+ yrs. now its running a different tune and Stg 3, but producing 550 Nm at the wheels. been 10 yrs now - no issues. gear shifts r smooth in all directions. clean power delivery through the gears. they say the DQ250 can safely handle up to 600 Nm with no hardware changes, but it needs a TCU tune. above 600 Nm, u need to start changing hardware (clutches) too, in order to cope with the torque.

Oh, ok. Thanks, will do. With regard to the 'No GPS Reception'. From what I've read, it's likely that the shark fin needs replacing. But, I've also read that it could be a firmware issue. In which case, should I attempt to update firmware before purchasing new Shark fin? Would appreciate your thoughts.

Hi and welcome to the forum. I would start by checking the wires where they pass through from the drivers door into the body of the car. Both the wires themselves for fraying that’s causing a short circuiting and also the connector blocks for water ingress and corroded pins. Both are very common problems with older cars and cause all sorts of weird behaviours.

Can anyone help me? I have a Mk1 Octavia with a 1.8T AUM engine. I’ve been having a ‘P0172 System Too Rich Bank 1’ code pop up. i delete it and it only comes back months apart. thought nothing of it at first but popped up a few times recently. I’ve been down a rabbit hole on Google AI which has diagnosed my Air Mass sensor as needing replacement. It has come to this conclusion from me sharing the freeze frame data of the codes plus some live data that i got from the code reader at acceleration, 70mph and deceleration. I am aware to not fully trust what AI has told me so I thought i’d come on here to see if anyone has any ideas. Just gonna chuck in a few pics that show the data screen that has rpms, speed, long term fuel trim and MAF IMG_8168.heic IMG_8407.heic IMG_8404.heic IMG_8387.heic IMG_8397.heic

I had the misfortune of having to clean one of those, albeit a normal FIAT 500 last week. Absolute nightmare. They trap dirt and detritus everywhere. You flush and rinse and flush again and more crap keeps coming out from parts you cleaned five minutes ago. Never known a car to be so good at retaining crud.

I will give it a go. Thank you!

3m x 15mm / 22mm copper pipework and plastic waste pipes. That tablet stuck in the middle of the dashboard will prevent me feeding the pipes down the middle and resting them on a cloth on top of the dash. You made me think about that!

My previous Mk3 hatch had the fold-flat front passenger seat. Staff at my local builder's merchants were always astonished when the car easily swallowed 3m long planks of wood. I'm going to miss that now.

Don't worry @Arianne, kickdown does indeed override the limiter. It works intuitively when you naturally fully depress the loud pedal and it stays deactivated until the speed falls back below the set limit. Try it on a quiet road by setting the limiter artificially low and then flooring it. That will give you the confidence in the functionality for when you do need it. Alternatively, if you have time to think about it while preparing for an overtake, just flick off the limiter with the stalk and then re-engage it afterwards. That will let you accelerate past the limit point more gently if you need to.

Changed the oil and oil filter for the 6th time, since buying my Greenline Estate in March 2025. In that time I've taken it from 152,000 to 190,000 miles. This change was 2,000 miles earlier than my usual 8,000 mile interval. I wanted to get it done before the cold weather set in for the winter, as I hate doing car mechanicing when it's freezing.

Has the roll out of 6.0.1 been halted? My app said 'update due soon' for ages but it now says my 6.0.0 software is up to date, no mention of pending update.

@Coral-C Interesting. Like you, I think having the smart dial with the sport setting right beside the individual mode is excellent. I had something similar on our Velar until.....an over the air software update reassigned this function to the touchscreen. A sad day! Next time we are travelling over the hills of North Northumberland and the Scottish Borders, I will try the more extreme sports settings. I suspect this end of the DCC+ spectrum may prove self-defeating because the tyres may struggle for solid contact on the broken tarmac but it's worth the experiment. The speed limiter is an interesting subject. I can understand how you deploy it and why. I have considered this too as a countermeasure to getting snapped by a mobile camera etc. But I worry that I will forget it is active and then, just when I want a burst of speed for an overtaking manoeuvre, it stutters in a potentially dangerous situation. Or does it yield if you apply what we used to call kickdown? Best wishes.

...and the skis 😅

Hello everyone, I am having a strange problem with the electric windows in my Skoda Fabia Mk1 (specifically the 2006 model with 4 electric windows) and would appreciate some advice. Here is what happens when using the switches on the driver's door: When I open the front passenger's window, both rear windows close simultaneously. When I close the front passenger's window, both rear windows open simultaneously. I can not control either of the two rear windows. The switches don't seem to have any effect. They also feel feather light without any weight to them. The front passenger's window switch works perfectly, it opens and closes the window normally. As for the rear switches, their individual door switches can open the windows but they can not close them. I have already tried replacing the front driver's window motor twice, as a mechanic told me he was about 90% sure that it was the culprit. However, after replacing it, something even stranger happened: I could only open and close the front passenger's window using the driver's window switch. None of the other windows responded to the driver's switch at all. I haven't checked the wiring yet and, so I'm wondering whether damaged or crossed wires could be responsible. Another thing that might be worth mentioning is that the driver's window switch isn't genuine. I believe the other switches may be aftermarket as well but I also tried a genuine driver's switch and the problem remained the same. Has anyone experienced or come across anything similar? Could this be a wiring issue, a problem with the comfort control module, incorrect switch wiring, or something else entirely? I'm running out of ideas, so any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Searched a lot of topics over the past week or so A fair few comments say that superskoda don’t ship to the UK anymore Is this true as there a few things I need to buy off there

Legend

And the fishing tackle

Temperature issue. Currently getting issues still with my 2018 skoda octavia vrs dsg 2.0 tsi. I have replaced thermostat water pump belt and temp sensors all with original dealer parts. My car doesnt have a dsg incline thermostat as symptoms all lead to that potentially being the cause but confirmed it hasnt. On idle start up the car temp after 5-10mins slowly climbs to 90. Upon turning blowers on they are hot but within minutes the gauge slowly drops. Once i drive mostly at higher speeds rather then round doors the gauge then goes nearly back down eventually to near on 0. Has anyone expierenced this. After a day or 2 the eml tends to come back on. Literally cannot think of anything else along with mechanic. I tried a aftermarket thermostat previously to a dealer part but no diffrence. Could it be electrical. Its as if a brand new thermostat doesnt want to work. Thanks in advance