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Got it, thanks! By the way, do you know if both headlight units should be the same generation? (015-016 or 017-018, in part numbers). Found a good deal for a 015 left unit and a 018 right unit and Im curious if they would work ok.

on the headlight itself, where the wiring harness plugs into, is different between version A and version B. from memory, there r more pins on version B headlights.

@Binx1310 - when i did my front grille DRL light bar, i ran a cable from the BCM, through the firewall and into the engine bay. its located above the passenger (for RHD cars) footwell. there is NO need to remove the glovebox or the fusebox there. u will need to remove the battery though, which u've done, to pull the wire through. no need to remove the airbox either. close up of the grommet ..... grommet located just above where the felt ends...... blue line showing the path

Ok, but what did you mean by "different pin arrangements"?

no, the wiring harness on the car side does not need to change. in other words - it caters for both version A and version B headlight plugs. i didn't have to change or modify anything with the wiring harness when i switched from A to B.

Well good that the problem is solved! I failed to suggest the haldex I thought you had read pages in here and Bap's excellent procedure for checking the pump screen which indeed is a serious f-up as an entire concept, not to mention service/maintenance procedures do not include it ... All good I guess, pity at the tremendous amount of parts and work that was done .... now make sure you rev up a little that thing, life is not under, but upwards of the turbo spin! 😁😅

East or West, your choice. The are very outdated anyway...

All I can say is, it's worked for me! Car seems smoother somehow, and fuel economy has improved. Could be the new DV valve, could be the deletes, could be replacing hoses when installing the catch can. I've been driving around for about ten days since I did all this- on day 3, I got engine light P0411 (secondary air intake incorrect flow). Erased it expecting it to come back but it hasn't yet. One thing I did, because it was playing on my mind, was to buy an upgraded crankcase breather pipe adaptor. The existing 90 degree pipe was pretty new, but the tension of the new hose was pulling it down a bit, cos my 'U' clip didn't clamp very well. (I actually tried making one but it was difficult and no better). So I got the 'upgraded' adaptor and tweaked the hose in this area, cos I wanted to get things as airtight as I could I also made a simple retainer to keep that damn 'U' clip in place (probably overkill, the new fitting seems well seated and doesn't move) This is just one snag I encountered, and dealt with, that others may find useful

I got all the work done after about 2 weeks; I've put my progress in the ' OCC install' thread Bowders wrote (Octavia 'guides' section). No point in repeating it here. After doing it, the whole system makes a lot more sense now. Car is much smoother and fuel economy has improved; I probably do still have air leaks in places but haven't yet done a simple vacuum test (I'm just happy I got it all done without assistance, apart from the guides and help on this forum). Oil leak is still there but much reduced; it's the turbo pipes I think.I'll leave that to a professional, I don't really know where to start and might make things worse

Thanks. When we get some dryer weather I'll pour water onto the windscreen and see the result. There isn't any water in the gulley at the base of the windscreen, but I agree that this MUST be rainwater as there isn't a source of "ordinary" clear water elsewhere.

PS, maybe more important, change to vw 504 00 / 507 00 5w 30 FS III, or even vw502 00 so 5w 40 FS since you are going with fixed service oil and filter. Remember the DQ400e DSG service oil and filter is @40,000 miles. As are spark plugs, and check the air filter every service not at 60,000 miles as per Skoda schedule.

1.4 tsi PHEV,s came from the factory showing fixed servicing intervals. But then the cars might of got plugged in and charged lots and the engine not run much. Many were never charged and the engine always running. So why many would go with Flexible / variable oil and filter changed. 18,000 / 20,000, 24 months.

@Bap33 This being on 199kW chargers. Are you going to be using Ultra Rapid chargers like that? Instavolts are only 160kW max.(92 pence a kWh) Tesla are 250kW max. there are Osprey 300 kW, There are 350 kW chargers. The Xpeng G9 can charge at 300-525 kW. So 800 volt chargers.

@pab567 which maps should I install? Now it asks for DVD in Nav. Will v17 East be okay? HW: H26 3ТO 035 681 А

Unfortunately a few miles, even at low revs is many thousands of piston cycles in the cylinder - and yours is an 'interference' engine, meaning there is almost no clearance between piston crown and cylinder head!

Update - I spoke to @Breezy_Pete over WhatsApp the other day, and he'd mentioned the PCV system being at fault. After procuring and fitting a known good one from a parts engine my mate has kicking about - I've still got the same issue. I get the fault codes as before, but also it feels almost like it's hunting at idle, and on light throttle it genuinely feels almost like it's misfiring. Throttle body has been swapped for the parts one too. There's no air leaks from the pipework now either as it's all new. Everything I seem to think would be wrong with it, just isn't or has been replaced already.

A reputable dealer would have erased route history for privacy reasons I suspect. The second question depends on if it was specced from new by the buyer. That can be answered by getting the VIN decoded. Maybe the seller can answer that for you. Mine did.

Just picked up my nearly new Octavia a couple of days ago and trying to find out what it can and can't do via the infotainment head unit. So a couple of quick ones of I may. is there a way of pulling historical route data to prove where the vehicle was at a particular time and date? I'd there a setting which picks up fixed speed cameras? Many thanks

And one more question.. I want to sell the car. If the new owner makes a new account and Skoda ID, will he benefit again of the 3 month free Care Connect and Infotainment online service? Or is a VIN related one time free service? And secondly, is there anyone in the same position (after update via USB to 1989 the eManagement not working) that succeeded disabling Reduced charging current from the Skoda App? Thank you in advance!

Worth checking these drainage holes as they are easily overlooked can get blocked. A few years back I had a small ingress of water and after clearing these I had no more problems. (It didn't make any logical sense but then when do these sort of problems ever make sense?). Not having a sunroof should be a big weight off your mind as leaks from the sunroof have always been a major problem coming up on this forum.

A tough time for you but you now have a new chapter ahead of you, the new car is a nice way to get started in it. All the best.

I could be interested to replace my Kodiaq Mk1, but 28mn to charge batteries from 10 to 80% (Skoda value for 90kW version) seems still quite long to me. Just for comparison Xpeng G9 says 12mn for the same WLTP range...

75000km service today: oil change + oil filter replacement + cabin filter replacement. Everything went fine. 🙂

I will try a factory reboot again. 1. Turn on the ignition and switch on Infotainment. 2. Tap the Menu / settings icon (usually a gear or the MENU button). 3. Go to Reset to factory settings (or System → Factory settings / Restore factory settings). 4. Select and confirm the reset. 5. After it finishes, check that all user accounts have been deleted to confirm success. These are the steps, right?

That's what I suspected. Thanks