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Replaced top two boot lights, can now see everything yay

could be water in underfelt. Check your coolant level in case its coming from heater matrix. Also check around spare wheel. Had water in there due to a grommet being missing. Alasdair

Thanks, will check it tomorrow morning. Ill let you know 👍👍

A repair-shop visit needed or a friend of yours may have a VCDS in his laptop or even an OBD11 which works with a smartphone. Even if you perform an ECU-reset by yourself if there is an error it will show-up again soon, it must be erased. The coolant sensor is ''OK'' if you measure his contacts, from outside may look good but maybe it isn't. Check the hose connection in the fuel pressure regulator and in the intake manifold. The throttle body must be calibrated and do some Kilometres in normal driving so the ECU ''will learn'' your driving style, a scan tool is absolutely necessary in that case. I have changed mine plus 2 ECU units and also i had a vacuum leak in the past.

And the aim moves at the same time? These bulbs are not easy to fit in my experience. They need a twist to completely locate in the correct position. Perhaps check this and compare to the other side. You can't see the bulb from the front which can help with this. I use a mirror from the back of the housing to check. Bulb goes up then beam reflects down? Thanks. AG Falco

@26DIPP at the start of your post you mentioned two options, one being the small foot option from the fabia... could you possibly provide any information for that particular part? I am currently trying to source parts for the same project and really struggling to find either a mirror which has autodim and is the twist on stem, or the style of mirror plus the mount from the skoda superb/octavia. i just miss my autodim and the mirror in my caddy is absolute poop because switching the switch moves the mirror so much all i can see is my rear seats. thank in advance.

I have been having the same issue, new firmware would be very appreciated

Hi. I had the same issue not long after I bought mine. It turns out that the contacts for the switch corrods/burns out. I bought a second hand good interior unit and de-soldered and fit in mine (the unit was white and mine was black)

Apparently after reading through a few other people's issues, there is a common problem with the passenger side door retaining water in the bottom as the drain hole gets blocked. Worth having a look ?

Tx30 for the tool. All six are actually visible from above, with suitable head positioning, the front two aren't as low as I'd remembered, so easier.

Amazing Will give it a go Haven’t got exactly what I want So unsure what I’m fully going to do!

Price dropped to £500 But will knock a good chunk off still for members 🤙

Workshop manual for Roomster with CBZB shows 6 fastenings (arrowed) for the heatshield, the two obvious ones on the top, two down the front, reachable from above but not super-easy. Then there is one either side, ringed in pink and orange on this image. On our car the one in pink was absent, and may never have been fitted, the orange one is a bit awkward to access, maybe a bit upward-facing and hard to see from above, mirror on a stick will help locate it. All either Torx Tx25 or Tx30, will check which shortly. All came undone reasonably easily on ours, but ensure Torx driver is fully engaged to the bottom of the recess, especially in any that have corrosion in there, before applying force. You may well be able to get enough wriggle room without complete removal, which really needs oxygen sensor (5) out, and oil line (screw 4) detaching to achieve. Removing top alternator fixing and tilting it forward away from the heatshield is also suggested. Hopefully releasing most of the screws will allow the actuator side of the heatshield to pull away far enough.

I admit I have been procrastinating and haven't got it repaired yet. How's the cold weathers have arrived the error message is intermittently showing every morning, but disappearing in the warm garage in the afternoon. I will hopefully take it to the garage next week.

Hi all, I'm hoping some of you Mk3 experts can help. I have a 2016 Octavia III vRS with the 2.0 engine, and my windows fog up on the inside really badly, but only after about 20 minutes of driving or longer. The first 20 minutes are fine. What I've already checked: - Plenum chamber drains under the windscreen (clear) - Boot seals and boot floor (no sign of water) - No obvious wet carpets in the footwells What I'm planning to check or have done: - Cabin/pollen filter condition - AC compressor running and recirculation off - AC evaporator drain - Hidden damp under carpets or mats Has anyone had this on their vRS and found the cause? Any hidden leak spots or known faults I should look at, like the heater matrix or scuttle seals? Happy to post photos if useful. Thanks in advance!

Will try tomorrow thanks can anything connected to fuse 7 pop it when the ignition is switched to accessories if so could I potentially have a list not a lot on google which I can find

Absolute legend 🤙

No I don’t think so. Just check the colour code is correct. Might be best to pop one of yours off and have a look at the sticker to get exact match.

Might be worth a shout that Decent prices as well! Doesn’t matter it’s facelift though I’m assuming for boot panels?

Many thanks for the response. I'm hoping it's not the turbo and only the actuator, as there are no other fault codes. I can move the rod side to side, but take the circlip off and give it a proper test. I heard about the shim solution, but this one does not have one, just the body attached. I checked with Skoda UK, and there are no recall campaigns for the car.

I'm assuming the car doesn't have an oil level sensor in the sump? That would be on fuse 7 if present. If not, check for wiring damage in the vicinity of the MAF connector and the 14 way connector adjacent to the left (UK nearside) suspension turret, where the feed from fuse 7 comes through pin 11 on a black/yellow wire. If none found, try unplugging the two halves of that 14 way, to establish whether the short is before or after that point.

Still no luck with it unplugged I am getting an engine code for the maf sensor though and also a communication (p0600) not sure if that’ll help

Front shocks - 5Q0 413 031 FP, superseded by 5Q0 413 031 LH, £96.20 + VAT each from Skoda Front wishbone left 5Q0 407 151 L, superseded by 5WA 407 151, £161.50 + VAT Front wishbone right 5Q0 407 152 L, superseded by 5WA 407 152, £161.50 + VAT Droplinks 5Q0 411 315 B, superseded by 5Q0 411 315 C, £51.80 + VAT each Taillight clusters come without 'bulb carrier', part numbers as per screenshot, each cluster is £239.50 + VAT, bulb carriers <£20 each plus VAT, slightly different prices for left and right. Headlight level sensor rear is 5Q0 512 521 J 'Level sensor with poles' £202.50 + VAT I have no information about manufacturers of any of the above.

This started out as a problem with US built cars with US built batteries. Obviously investigations have shown up issues elsewhere in the supply chain to affect european and chinese models. I expect the big number is the worldwide number while the smaller numbers will be regional / national figures.

Try unplugging the MAF sensor, that appears to share fuse 7.