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You really do need to find out what the car thinks is wrong to bring that light ON. It needs scanning using a fully VW Group compliant scan tool - such as VCDS or Carista etc, and take it from there.

Without knowing the boot sticker I’d go for these Monroe ones. They are longer than the saloon ones.

If you want quality suspension parts use avs spares, put it in google. Excellent people. Unfortunately they very rarely show the springs as they can be complicated. However I did work it out and to do so would need a picture of the white vehicle label in the boot. To be fair though they are bound to be standard estate ones for the vag range of cars. The original springs should have had Three coloured dots on them. That makes it much easier to just buy the same. See photo as an example. In this case pink brown brown. So for my Audi TT standard front suspension springs. If you post the label up though I will see if I can tell you.

Hey everyone! I recently installed a RNS310 Multimedia/radio into my mk2 Fabia. Had fun fitting it, until I realised I need the 4 digit PIN code to use it. I read the original radio owner's manual, and the code is nowhere to be found Can anyone help, serial number is SKZ1Z2K6338276 I tried paying for one of those code retrieval services, and got scammed out of 25$ lol

Thanks to all for your replies. Maybe a wierd lucky coincidence, but finding a pictorial guide to the dash panel fuse box, on the floor under the passenger seat today, led me to investigate that. There's obviously been some alterations (see attached), and one of the added connectors was loose. Testing again after reseating that and the lights are now behaving themselves! There is an after-market reversing camera fitted - but no screen. There are also two live USB leads in the dash-top storage compartment. So I wonder if the fuse box alterations could be linked to either of those? Re. missing cover. Retracting washers are far too advanced for me! Previous car was Octy Mk1 with fixed washers on bumper. Now I know what to search for, eBay has thrown up possibilities. A couple of UK sellers have them for under a tenner a pair - unpainted. So I just need to find the right paint. Thank you again for all the help.

Thank you.

I have just checked my coding and adaptation map and my Stg 4B byte 11 bit 0 is already unchecked. But I think my headlights do not know the central reservation when driving on right hand traffic motorways.

Light had gone when I picked car up from garage but 2 miles up the road I filled up with petrol and then engine light was back on. Should I just drive it for a bit and see if it goes off?

Knew I had a photo of my 1985 2.0 SGL somewhere: Gaz

I did wonder myself. One for @viper42 and @MartiniB . It's going to be whether the RoW markets support it I guess.

Interesting change… hadn’t seen anything about it. It was never a thing due to our own “freedom of travel” agreement post… historical events… that predated EU membership and the Schengen agreement rights to move about. I’m not reason for at airports has been because of the post 911 international clamp down on travel identity

Does anyone know if Rest of World (MRM) maps are still being released? There have been two EU releases this year but the last MRM release seems to be November last year.

I have a guaranteed trade payout locked in for 11:00 AM tomorrow. Offering this to a private buyer or enthusiast first for £6900 firm. Car is fully packed, cleaned, and documents ready. If you want a clean 2019 Karoq at trade valuation before it goes to a dealer, message me before 10:00 AM. I have also 2 extra tyres for it. Finance was cleared. Will take a few days to clear with HPI.

My 2.0 lt TDi has achieved 84K and seems to be doing well, no DPF/EGR issues (so far) apart from the usual belt and water pump, it's required nothing beyond the usual consumables. I don't go for dealer servicing, MOT covers most things in a service ( as a service is mostly check/inspect xyz) and I always get an annual oil change with the MOT. filters are about the only thing that doesn't require a computer that I can still fix. I'm not changing mine until repairs exceed value, it's a shame they didn't make a mark II instead of becoming one of the look alike sheep with the subsequent Yeti replacements

Does the stud go down and connect to the thick black wire below? The one that goes out at the bottom left of your first photo. If so does that go to the positive battery terminal? Thanks. AG Falco

Thanks for the tip but none of the fuse boxes match my Elroq one. I would be very grateful if another Elroq owner would pop the bonnet open and take a sneaky look and see if they too have a missing nut not? Just trying to avoid driving 50 miles to the dealer to look at another Elroq myself. Fingers crossed it's the same as mine

The Epiq is a similar size. Decent boot, good value, quick enough, good range. Might have a look later in the year at the bigger battery one.

Soon you'll need a full passport to travel to Ireland on the ferry. NI unaffected but advice is to check when booking. https://www.itv.com/news/wales/2026-08-26/new-passport-rule-for-uk-ireland-ferry-passengers

Hi, This is the version I currently have. Thanks for explaining how to find it. 🙂 I´ll check for the rest of the week, but I fear the MMI of my Kodiaq Mk1 still downloads repeatedly the same updates… 🫤

Hello, The 03A7 recall campaign relates to the changeover in 1989. Why not try this free recall at the dealership? Also, if you visit this page, you may see other outstanding recalls at the bottom. https://www.octavia-rs.eu/rueckrufaktionen-feldmassnahmen/

In an earlier posting you said "My dipstick is exactly the same as the manual describes BUT there is not ANY treatment at the marked area as shown in S19-0760 picture - it is just plain steel." Is that actually the case, or does your car's dipstick have the raised 'dotted' section shown in the image in my last posting? This Toyota Tacoma-related Facebook entry discussed reading the oil level on a dipstick when thin oil is being used in a vehicle https://www.facebook.com/groups/4870321056422088/posts/6768461309941377/ and the following three 'tricks' were suggested 1) Use a brand new or extremely sharp hacksaw blade or metal file to “scratch” up both sides of the dipstick with a crosshatch pattern. Be certain to wipe all metal powder/dust before inserting into the engine. If this doesn’t work then add the following to #1. 2) Use a piece of regular stick chalk to rub on the cross hatches when the stick is completely wiped off. Insert dipstick and pull out to see where the level shows on the chalk. Clean off all chalk before reinserting after level is viewed. If you don’t want to do #1 and # 2 then try #3. 3) Have a piece of absorbent white paper towel or absorbent tissue paper. When the dipstick is pulled out quickly then slowly slide the paper towel or tissue edge held tight on the metal from top down toward full mark. When first sight of oil shows on the towel that’s the level. Holding a powerful light close during either of these methods also helps especially if you are in shade or dark conditions. My 2009 Skoda Roomster's dipstick has a single O-ring seal, but my 2024 Fabia's dipstick has two O-rings (image attached) and - as its 'handle' is angled - it is only practicable to fully insert the dipstick in one orientation. Engine hot or engine cold, the two O-rings mean that a good upwards pull is needed to remove the dipstick.

Hello, I have a 2021 Superb 2.0 TDI DTUA 200hp and it has part nr "05L 115 562 A" for oil filter, which is the 161mm one.

VAG_DPF_Diagnostics_Manual_2026-08-25_09-57-22.pdf

On oil consumption, I’ve now had the car back a week and while not done massive miles I’ve driven it everyday and cover maybe 30miles everyday at least, so far no noticeable drop in oil. I’m doing a couple of longer drives over the weekend so will feedback again but I’d say it’s definitely improved.

Measured mine recently. Im burning 1 litre of oil to every 650 miles. Its also regenning more often than not, which takes me back to my original post. Is the mid range oil which is mainly used on services good enough for the Cupa/Cuna engine? The oil is getting too hot, too often, due to the regens, and the oil is breaking down faster and making its way past the rings. Makes me wonder if thats why some swear by Ravenol/Liquid Moly with Ceratec. As they may have better heat resistance. Obviously doesn't take away the fact the piston rings were never good to start with. But can it be slowed down by better quality oils, and a DPF/EGR delete?