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That makes sense. It would be strange to have sensors only at 3 and 9, but I am another person guilty of repeating this theory on Briskoda 😁 On the only occasions when I have had the warning, I have been driving on long lonely motorways with one hand at the 6 o'clock position. I don't think it was just a light resting touch, but maybe your experiments can find out more. One thought though ... don't test it unless the road behind you is clear. There can sometimes be a very short break between the warning and the car starting to take corrective action. If grasping the wheel firmly does not clear the warning immediately, you could be braking before you - or the driver behind - know it. ... and I am the only person who finds it incredible that we have to try to reverse engineer our cars in order to work out how to use them correctly? This stuff should all be in the manual - or at least on the Skoda website - so that we can get a definitive guide. I'm always amused that there is more description in the manual on how to open and close a door (with warnings and diagrams!) than most of the driver features in the car.

Similar but different thing happened to me on an old SEAT. Imobilizer locked on and car wouldnt start. eventually gave up and got another car. Three month later battery was flat so charged it and tried again. Worked perfectly and has done since. No idea why. Put it down to a glitch in ECU. Alasdair

Will wait for a proper cold day test but there is a possibility that this friction between objects is the source of the glovebox rattle too... perhaps a felt tape layer on the fixing points is all that takes? lets see how it goes with the door

Sorry folks, not been on here for months, ended up hospitalised, abs light traction control and tyre pressure warning illuminated, but since car has sat 3 months without a battery fitted it's not in limp mode any more! The quest continues, slowly

I have had this a few times when we were driving along the M90. Like you, I cruise with my hands lightly grasping, finger almost laying on the 6:30pm position of the steering wheel. So I asked my AI Assistant with which I configured the personalised settings in the car - both the question about the steering wheel, "take control" message and the earlier query about the "driver attention" warning message: AI RESPONSE: Yes — and I think what you are experiencing is the hands-on detection, not the camera-based driver-attention monitor. Rosie’s Travel Assist uses a capacitive steering wheel. Škoda explicitly describes it as detecting the driver’s touch on the wheel; in principle, therefore, you should not have to provide steering torque or deliberately wiggle the wheel merely to prove you are there. � Škoda Auto +1 I would be cautious about the claim that the sensors are specifically at particular clock positions such as 3 and 9 o’clock. I can find owners repeating that theory, including on BRISKODA, but I cannot find anything from Škoda confirming it. � Capacitive hands-on systems of this type normally use a conductive sensor mat within the steering-wheel rim, rather than two little point sensors sitting at particular locations. � Briskoda Justia Patents Your observation nevertheless makes sense. If you are cruising with your hands resting lightly around the bottom of the rim, you may have relatively little skin area wrapped around the wheel. Capacitive detection can then be less reliable. Skin moisture, gloves, very light fingertip contact and the exact way the hand contacts the leather can all affect the capacitance. Other VW-group owners report exactly this sort of variation. � Briskoda +1 So I would try a very simple experiment in Rosie: On a suitable straight road with Travel Assist operating, keep one hand normally wrapped around the rim at about 8–9 o’clock or 3–4 o’clock. Don't deliberately make steering corrections. See whether the warning disappears entirely. Then repeat the same stretch with your hand resting down at about 6 o’clock, as you normally sometimes drive. If the warnings occur predominantly in the second case, I'd regard that as the capacitive detection simply being less reliable with your particular lower-hand grip — not evidence that there are discrete sensors only at 3 and 9. And when the warning does appear, try firmly wrapping/squeezing your fingers around the rim first rather than wriggling the steering wheel. If the capacitive system is working properly, that should normally be sufficient. One thing I would watch because Rosie is brand new: if she starts giving “take over steering” warnings while you genuinely have one or both hands properly wrapped around the rim at conventional positions, I wouldn't accept that as normal. VW-group steering wheels have had documented sensor-mat problems, so at that point I'd have West End Garage check the hands-on detection sensor/mat under warranty. � Dot Report So for now: I don't think you need to change any setting. I'd change your hand contact slightly and see what happens. And I wouldn't worry about using exactly 3 and 9 — somewhere around the side/lower-side of the wheel should give the capacitive system a much better signal than merely resting your hands along the bottom. AI RESPONSE: Yes — you remembered correctly. When we set Rosie up, I recommended changing Drowsiness Monitor → Sensitivity to Medium. It sits within the Attention and Drowsiness Assist / driver-assistance settings. My recommendation was: Leave the system switched on Set Sensitivity = Medium Only reduce it further if Rosie was repeatedly warning you despite you being alert and driving normally The idea was to retain the genuine safety benefit without having the car become unnecessarily fussy about perfectly normal driving behaviour. So if you followed my recommendation at the time, Medium is the setting you should currently have. END OF AI RESPONSE. Hope this helps? I will note how the car behaves for our first proper journey down to Southern England in a few weeks to visit our son and report back on my real-life, as opposed to AI world, reality! Best wishes.

@Graham Butcher can you remeber what you earned then or what you paid for the Minx?

On that note, when I started driving, I had a Hillman Minx and I remember petrol costing 6 bob and 8 pence, a gallon in old money or 3 gallons for £1. Oh, how things change.

Got some hose retaining clip things: so they shouldn't fall out. Started some wire wheeling and pulled off that 'no jacking' label to find out what the original paint was like. Some reasonable performance weight savings have occurred. Wire wheeled it all back as best I could and gave it a bit of a wash and wipe down. and started colouring it in.

Saw this 64 plate parked up at tewksbury services and couldnt resist a family photo, is it anyone from the forum? Had the same cobra exhaust as mine but was lowered on yellow springs. Any ideas?

Try opening bleed nipple at slave end and depress clutch. If its still hard then it could be a fault in new master cylinder/pedal area. If its soft it could be the clutch mechanism/slave. Also the pressurised connection on master is push fit with a metal clip to secure. On my octavia it came with an o ring and top hat seal. You only use one. Top hat in my case. If both were used it may restrict the flow of clutch fluid causing stiff pedal or perhaps seal wasnt pushed home enough(it should click into place on pipe) or seal has come loose when fitting.(its quite easy to dislodge seal when connecting pipe from experience) Alasdair

Buyers market for those wanting an efficient diesel for longer distance trips, towing etc etc. even if it does get to £3 a litre. £13.50 a gallon. You pays your money and do what you need to do in whatever suits you. PS, when I had a moped, a motorbike or a car and had started working a gallon of petrol was an hour's pay.

Hi Can anybody tell me if it is possible to turn off the annoying light/dark shade indication in the navigation system display for the remaining electric range? ON a PHEV it seems pointless. Wilson

Hi there, I own a 2025 Kodiaq iv Sportline hybrid (and love it!). I’m thinking about upgrading my iPhone 15 pro to an iPhone 17 Pro Max. Question - will that size phone fit and charge ok in the wirlesss charging bays in the Kodiaq? Have seen measurements and it looks borderline, so would appreciate any user feedback from anyone who’s been there. Thanks in advance 😊

It been a while…..but. After a few tests, it does seem that 10to and 10 past generates less “take control” notifications. I have moved my seat 2 clicks forward in the hope that on my next 80+ miles trip I’ll get few, hopefully no notifications to take control 🤞

Best find out if a 7 kW /11 kW rated or a 22 kW. Likely 7 kW. Edit. My shorter 11 kW cable. Came with my EV.

My wall box charges at 7kw. Don’t know the rating of the cable. Size marked on it is 3*6mm + 2*0.5mm.

Growing numbers of unsold used and new ICE vehicle. That are vehicles that are owned by financial institutions in many cases so that is Pension. Fund money that Motor Groups borrow to have stock.

That is just what they want to try and convince everyone to believe; it's all BS really. All they will do with the trade-in is to sell it on quickly to a second hand dealer in order to try to convince the next punter looking to buy new that only EV models are available with the vague hope of hitting their sales quota and avoiding any fines coming along for missing it.

we pick up our Skoda Superb estate diesel on monday. Looking forward to joining the Skoda family

But dealers don't want diesel trade ins when customers want to get an EV says Car Dealer magazine..... Car Dealer MagazineSoaring fuel prices spark rush for used EVs – but dealers...Soaring fuel prices are resulting in more motorists considering making the switch to electric cars – but specialist EV dealers say they are increasingly

Here we go again! Colder weather always brings the creaks and rattles back to my Kodiaq and the front passenger door was making a RACKET from somewhere in the top centre , no amount of pushing by passengers could stop it. This is the same creaky rattle that I started this thread for... This time... I think I've got it Took card off, had a good look at the existing dampening and muffling I'd added and could see nothing left to make the noise. A quick drive minus the card proved the rattle is either in the card or because the card is up against the metal door. Attention turned to the point where the door card is bolted to the outer door. Thats almost exactly where the noise was from, a quick test showed the bolt isn't a very tight fit in the hole, and the part of the card abutting the metal door is quite hard plastic. So I added a square inch or so of that fluffy self amalgamating tape you can add to cables, over the bolt hole. Cut a cross over the hole with a knife, and the bolt now isn't rattly, it also means the friction between the door and card is reduced. I did both bolt holes in same way, put the card back on... and... SILENCE!!!! Very pleased, have a similar but quieter noise in the drivers door but no time today for that. Also now I can better isolate the effing glovebox rattle which still hasn't gone on cold days.

My lad has been put on standby for busy time, he works for one of the super large Fast Parcel Operators. Always the tough choices as to air or sea freight. About half of air freight travel on the regular air passenger flights and the other half on dedicated freight aircraft. For the solar invertors air freight would be fine but not for 20 Kg solar panels which are circa 1.8m tall. I have been looking at the flexible solar panels which seem to weigh about a quarter what rigid solar panels. Not sure of any big disadvantages with them. Batteries, ie so called solar batteries wwth large Lithium batteries present their own challenges as Dangerous Goods. I think Octopus are talking about 7 or 8 weeks delay if a balcony solar kit now but since we are rapidly moving in to the darker tine of year I think it is price that is key. I would like to see the 460w system down below £400 which i would hope it will be and therefore payback in two spring/summer/autumn period rather than 3. Shipping both at sea and inkand UK is quite expensive. I think kne xan still get sub £2k shipping of a 40 ft container if one is moving bulk ie several containers at a time. UK shipping kf these giant near 2m long solar panels when, unless ordering many at a time, the shipping is almost as expensive as the panels. Free shipping if one orders say 16 or more panels ie couple of thousand quid worth, ouch. Maybe a family and friends order. Do like some are doing and replacing fencing panels with solar panels, good for the morning or evening sun in lare autumn, winter and early spring with their tangential aspect to the ground.

A local garage recently changed the master clutch cylinder on my 2018 Skoda Karoq 1.0 Tsi. but the car was returned to me with a HARD CLUTCH PEDAL. The clutch was light before the change and the master cylinder was replaced due to the clutch position sensor showing fault codes. The slave cylinder was also changed a couple of weeks later with a Dot4 flush in the hope that it might improve the harshness of the clutch pedal. Now I been left high & dry with the same problem. ANY IDEARS WOULD BE VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.

Selling out is easy to do if your imports from China are being delayed by disruption in manufacturing or transportation by sea or at ports. So much Halloween plastic crap including lights to get into the warehouse including lights, then the Christmas trash / lights, fireworks etc etc. the money making stuff.

I never call granny charger, but yes the 13amp cable is a granny cable type 2. The charger is onboard the car not the cable. 3.6 kW sometimes. Wall box a different kettle of fish. 22 kW type 2 cable in long lengths are quite a heavy bulky thing. My EV is charging at a public charger just now using one. I will be just over 3 hours to get 20 kWh of electricity. Costing £10.50.