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Just to answer my own question, should it be of use to others, yes - the iPhone pro max does fit in the phone charging bays 😊 (I bought one anyway). It fits pretty much perfectly (with a thin apple weave style case on) and I suspect it was designed to do so. Any bigger a phone, or a bulkier case, and it probably wouldn’t.

I’ve generally done both – drain by pump so there’s less of a surge when you take the plug out, then get the last bits from the bottom. I don’t have the luxury of a driveway so try to minimise mess where possible.

All my cars are fairly old so generally drain from sump. Have always been worried that using pump wouldnt remove any sludge build up etc. Do have one but use it for a ride on lawnmower thats a pain to get to drain plug. Alasdair

Yes, I was almost ecstatic with relief when it eventually came out! I had to do a small amount of disassembly to get the dipstick tube off, but it really wasn’t very difficult. As convenient and clean as using the pump is, I think I will revert to just taking out the plug in future.

Wonder if it kinked and got stuck. Cant think of anything else it would have caught on. At least you got it out again. Lot easier than dropping sump Alasdair

@dxbajf You ask for advice, and many people have already replied, but as far as I can see you haven't even mentioned whether you have a diesel or petrol engine? So I think all the advice above is based on an assumption?

Sounds like clutch hydraulics are failing somewhere. Keep an eye on brake fluid level as the clutch and brakes share the same reservoir. Check to see if clutch/ brake fluid is where it shouldn't be - eg peel back rubber seals on master and/or slave. If not sure then get both the master and slave cylinders changed. I had similar symptoms with Mrs BJ's Panda- had both ends changed, all good now.

Flickering leds can also be caused by a faulty led driver - whether the driver unit can be replaced separately is another question, very likely to be integral with the led module.

The original suggests mystery in its distant aspect, leading the mind of the observer to think "what's back there". The more defined imagery in your AI version is pretty but - to me - loses the magic of the mystery. As is said, YMMV

If it is an auto ecu in a manual then someone has already cloned ecu/copied imobilser data etc to it as car starts and runs. I read using VCDS you can change settings in ECU from auto to manual but have no idea how to. Found this on rosstech for a jetta. https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/20338/

I find turning up at the door, in person, often works wonders Especially if you get a photo of yourself in reception.

Thank you.

Neither did I. Heard that you could use the training lifts somewhere in Edinburgh but didnt realise there were others. Maybe ask around some smaller local garages/MOT stations. They may hire it for a weekend when not in use. Still not a bad idea for a business. Reckon it would be pretty busy as theres loads of folks do there own especially around here with all the boy/girl racers in there modified hot hatches etc. Daughter been at me for years to get one myself and as I am getting on a bit seems like a pretty good idea these days. Can get down and under car but its the getting up again thats the problem plus reckon it would pay for itself in no time. Have the space as I have an old farm but height in buildings is limited. Alasdair

Hi, I finally installed the cruise control. It works perfectly. I had to run an extra wire. Finally, I programmed it using ODIS.

Look at that! Never knew - That’s great thanks. But there goes the business idea!

Had a quick google and there are a few that hire out ramps at weekend. A couple maybe near you https://bognorselfservicegarage.co.uk/ and https://autobarnmotorservices.co.uk/ There may well be others. Alasdair

FYI, in my manual you can change the setting for the alerts (load beep and big red foot brake symbol), but not the actual braking.

There are no traditional replaceable 'bulbs' in a Fabia Mk4's LED headlights. This recent forum topic discussed a Fabia Mk4's flickering headlight (in that case it was the DRL (Daytime Running Light) that was intermittently flickering). https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/540477-led-daytime-running-light-drl-failingflickering-2022-fabia/#comment-6023834 If your Fabia has the basic 'reflector' type LED headlights (not the 'full matrix' type) this ebay advert quotes £395 for a new UK driver's-side unit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/306812438685 but you may find that a UK Skoda dealership's price for a new replacement headlight is well over £500. As it's the full beam that's the problem with your car's headlight (and assuming that the headlight-unit itself is the culprit and not, say, a wiring issue or connection fault) then replacement of the headlight would normally be needed to cure the fault. The first thing to do is to ascertain why your car's headlight is flickering, but, other than to check that the connections on the rear of the headlight are fully in place, I'm not sure what else you can do yourself. The high cost of replacing a car's 'sealed' LED headlight-units was warned about in this 2018 RAC article https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/motoring-news/drivers-dazzled-by-massive-headlight-costs/

Ah I did wonder as it almost looks like a crack beneath the surface. Hopefully the replacement is better!

Yerp..... Source: Coventry Telegraph https://share.google/J79ygRoqEk7Rzfdxl

This must have been one of the first 9.2" displays in terms of production. The same issue also occurs with the Virtual Cockpit; it’s a stress fracture directly within the LCD—essentially a manufacturing defect.

I will measure the capacitance that the Kodiaq had for the tweeters. I also have optimized datasets with adjusted frequency responses.

Thanks Mike, I like the layers and the composition in general, sadly the light wasn't that great. In my head I was hoping it would look like the AI enhanced shot below.🤣 I grabbed another sunset shot yesterday at Leaderfoot viaduct which wasn’t too bad.

Hello everyone, I recently purchased a 2021 Skoda Scala 1.0 TSI 95 HP with a manual gearbox and approximately 88,000 km. I'm experiencing an intermittent clutch problem and would like to know if anyone has experienced something similar. The problem: Sometimes, when I'm slowing down to approach a junction or roundabout, the clutch pedal suddenly feels much lighter than normal and I cannot engage any gear. To get it working again, I have to slow the car down until it is almost completely stopped and press the clutch pedal again. After that, everything returns to normal and I can select gears without any problems. Additional observations: The problem happens randomly, not on every journey. Most of the time, the clutch works perfectly. With the engine switched off, all gears engage normally. I tested the clutch pedal by pressing it several times and holding it down for 60 seconds. I noticed no loss of resistance during this test. The problem temporarily disappears after slowing down and pressing the clutch again. Has anyone experienced a similar issue with the Skoda Scala or another VW Group vehicle with the 1.0 TSI engine? Could this be related to the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, or another part of the hydraulic system? If anyone has experienced this problem and found a solution, I would really appreciate your advice. Thank you in advance!

The biting point is around halfway through the pedal travel, perhaps slightly lower, closer to the floor. With the clutch pedal fully depressed and a gear engaged, the car doesn’t try to move at all. The clutch doesn’t slip under load either. Even when driving uphill in a high gear, the engine revs drop rather than the clutch slipping. With the engine switched off, all gears engage more easily, even without pressing the clutch pedal. However, I can still feel the mechanical engagement of each gear through the gear lever, almost as if I can feel the gears engaging. With the engine running, shifting is noticeably harder, especially when downshifting. I’ve already adjusted the gear linkage following a tutorial, but unfortunately it hasn’t solved the problem. Personally, I would suspect the plastic components in the gear linkage, the gearbox oil level or condition, or even worn synchronisers before blaming the clutch. Of course, I could be wrong, but the clutch itself seems to be working fine to me. What do you think?