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@Gaz it is time to celebrate 🎉; I actually remembered, and a bit of planning… Up the A34, but I took the B430 just short of the M40 so I had more chance of being able to stop at the right time. About 100 yds before a lay-by the car clicked over to… 😀

Couple of shots from today. Revisited a railway bridge previously snapped and went up to the firth of fourth.

@Rory when stopped in traffic queues or traffic lights a light tap on the throttle released the auto hold. Then I read a post, either in this forum or the Facebook Karoq Owners group, where the poster would manually apply the parking brake having come to a halt at traffic lights with autohold. They did this so rear brake lights were then off. The action to pull away is the same simply press the throttle but I think the parking brake releases slightly quicker and smoother than the auto hold release. Returning to your question about releasing autohold I find the lightest of taps is sufficient to set the car rolling. Maybe it differs slightly between 1.5 and 2.0 TSI engines.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/137640553115

That's exactly what I do.....but, I have auto-hold turned off. Surely if you have it on, the car won't release its brakes and start to move until you touch the accelerator? I turn it off because my previous TC auto didn't have it so got used to driving without it, and in the Tiguan we had before the Karoq, it released the auto brakes with a bit of "thunk" - it was far nicer to let the car creep before getting on the gas.

Yeah, we don't really use them much in the UK. They're far more important on the continent. Right now, the paper CoC (they're watermarked), is the definitive legal document, but they're going digital. What you'll get, will be a PDF of the real thing. The data will all be correct, and useful, but it won't be a legal document. That said, you shouldn't ever need it in the UK. This is what Side 1 of ours looks like. There's lots of nerdy goodness in them! You can see the date on which your car was built, for example, so you know how long it was sat in a field before it was registered. Also which version of Euro 6 emissions it was, and exactly what you can tow with it.

Well I've had a good look at two different versions of the 85 model. One was an SE L, the other was 85 Edition, neither were outstanding, but I had a look inside a Sportline one and that looked better, now will try getting Lookers to remove the MDP & GardX (£1100) from the quotes they've sent me. I can reallocate that to pay for the EV charger, getting that done could be fun my house being a Grade II* listed building! I've been offered the 2,9% PCP with a £3k deposit as a returning customer bonus or 0% loan, the PCP is easier & cheaper to do and I can repay it easily. Or should I do a 100% cash deal, where I'd need to find £20000 (which is more or less what my RS cost me when I did that deal) + another £2k. Just need to get some insurance quotes together to see how much it'll cost me.

@SkodaLada @CnrNGCJ i am facing the same issue. Did you manage to solve the problem? I changed the battery already, even a new ECU was put on the car and the same issue as you described is happening. Thank you

whoa getting my combi valve out was like fighting with a gorilla; Bowders didn't mention the bunch of hardlines and other stuff screwed into the back of the combi valve plate. Maybe his was different but it was tough and I expect I've gouged some bits I shouldn't have. Tomorrow I'll put the plate on, and the coolant assembly; then get chopping out the hoses in the N249 area. I made progress today; if the OCC install is this tricky... ...I'll die...

I've read that primer over rust converted rust is a bad idea, unstable surface , but probably better than not doing anything. Hycote diamond silver is a good match but the power red 50b for my astra was nota match. I went to paint shop. The base primer is coloured and gives depth to colour. I've got epoxy primer and going to seal it tomorrow. Should I rub down rest of sill to metal, I'm thinking not because the rust I found is creeping from direction of wheels towards centre of sill. I've found not rusted metal a little further in. Probably best not to disturb

It is regularly washed. I've had rear bumper off 2 years ago to rust proof hidden areas and wheel arches have been off numerous times. No rust. This rust was hidden under the factory paint and stone chip protection. As the sill protection is bubbly in appearance there was no tell tale signs. Discovered entirely accidentally when prepping sill. I bought a couple of Bolt Hamber products recently - Underbody and the clear stuff. 80 hydrate for chassis voids.

What I also noticed, but didn't give a second thought about. When I inspected my pullies, the engine plastic top cover was loose, so I clipped it back down into place. Obviously the main dealer hadn't attached it down properly when it was previously serviced by them, prior to me buying the car. Since then, the noise has not occurred, again. My fingers are crossed.

Hopefully someone has in depth knowledge of the CRLB engine. The problem is oil leaking around the injector seals. Is being pushed through the seals under pressure and onto the top of the camera cover. It seems to me the crankcase is pressuring and forcing oil past the seals in the cam cover. The breather system is rather baffling, with what looks like a breather built into the cam cover. We are asking if any internal breathers can be cleaned or does it require a replacement camera cover. This might sound a bit amateur, but my mechanic is very experienced and he suggested there could be someone here with a better understanding of the system than us. Thanking you all on advance for your time.

There were differences in 2013 as in likely no e-brake or autohold and just a Parking Brake & 'Hill hold assist' or no Hillhold assist. 2 seconds of being held on a slope if the brake pedal is pressed hard enough. The good thing is, what ever you have you can practise with it. What otheers do is their thing. A Light touch is 'simply clever' but delays need to happen.

all done, not the sensor just the o ring/ seal

@Ianhar Had you never checked the oil in 11,500 mile? Did you not check it from collecting it to see where the put the car out from the PDI as far as oil level? Many have had to top up long before the miles you have done. Maybe if you had earlier it would not have used so much oil.

Hi all My Superb often makes a loud electrical buzzing noise after driving. I switch it off and start walking away, only for it to start buzzing. I go back to the car and switch it on and back off, and this usually rectifies it straight away. It's definitely not the usual cooling fan noise. This is something else altogether. A few days back I thought I'd risk it and leave it for a few minutes. This caused an awful burning small and much panic. Couldn't find any damage though. I've uploaded a short video of the sound. PXL_20260819_183430602.TS~2.mp4

Check if your tyre is out of shape. I've had this before. Sounfd exactly like a wheel bearing.

As I've mentioned previously Ive had 3 DSG cars and I think the key to driving it is acclimatising to the slight delay from when the foot brake is release to when the car just starts to move, only pressing the throttle when it has started to move. All 3 were fractional different. I was very fortunate in 2013 in that my first drive in a DSG VW was with a Sales Guy who was a DSG Geek - he explained the best way to drive it.

Hi everyone, I have a problem. My retrofitted backup camera stopped working, so I switched to a Sinosmart camera, but I can't get it to work. I get an image when I start the car, but it disappears as soon as the infotainment system boots up, and sometimes a "Park Pilot not available" message appears. So any ideas wat the broblem can be Best regard Bjorn

I suspect EMMC is corrupted. To have it confirmed pls change th elanguage to any other than English and then restart the unit - if after restart language is English then it means EMMC is corrupted. Unfortunately in such state software update will not work - unit must be open end EMMC must be formatted manually.

But only when heating. How is it any more efficient at cooling (given that standard A/C IS a heatpump, just a one way one). When heating you get 1kW of power from a standard PTC / resistive heater, for 1kW of energy input. Using a heatpump to heat you can get say 2-3kW of heat for 1kW power input. The rest of the energy is 'stolen' from outside the car and pumped in.

Unfortunately there are no fresh maps for these units. Go to Skoda Update Portal enter your VIN and you shoul dbe able to get latest available maps for your MIB1 Columbus.

I'll second the SGS Engineering struts. I replaced my original ones with ones ordered from here in August 2019 and seven years on they are still working perfectly. So they've lasted a year longer than the OEM ones!! From memory I had a small problem with the locking pin (?), emailed them and received different pins in the post a couple of days later which solved the problem. I like a company that gives a no fuss service.