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It should be on the records as done or not done. Also what other Service Campaigns, maybe track rod ends, maybe Heated Seat Elements if there are heated seats. Then there was a fan issue. But if '34F7' not done and DSG OK i would still not touch it. For a 2011 1.2 TSI There is can update of the Timeing Chain & tensioner. might have been done. There should be armoured Plug Leads, especially on cylinder 3. This was an update. When were the Spark Plugs changed? When was the Air Filter changed or the brake fluid replaced. These are the first service things i would do.

You could choose hydrate 80 or jenolite. Jenolite is good, so you might want to save your money, and save even more by going to Dynax for the underbods, and S50 for cavities. Dynax and S50 are available 750ml spray cans, so it's easy as lanoguard to apply, and if yu were using one of those hand sprayers, it doesn't dribble over your hands so much. 3 cans of jenolite should go a long way. Some people won't put any coating over it, and just retreat the necessary bits each year. I think you might need to rinse with alkali solution to neutralise the acid, but a chemist could give better advice. Do you use a trolley jack for lifting?

Thanks - double checked. My LV policy covers lost or stolen keys. Just need to be careful. I have a hefty excess on theft - so if that applies to keys, its probably not worth it. D

Fair old bit of EV tech in the car. Bit quicker than my old Type S I reckon..... https://media.jlr.com/jaguar/news/2026/10/jaguar-type-01-new-era-begins One‑of‑a‑kind: Jaguar Type 01 is a luxury four‑door GT like no other. A bold new grand tourer that never arrives unnoticed, like all the best Jaguars of the past Exuberant proportions: Low roofline, short front overhang, long bonnet, extended rear overhang and 23‑inch wheels. Presence and drama from every angle Pioneering foundations: Unique JEA body architecture and state‑of‑the‑art propulsion to deliver the original design vision Boundary‑breaking: More than 360 patent applications to make Type 01 the most technically advanced Jaguar ever engineered Most aerodynamic Jaguar: Active Vanes, three‑stage deployable spoiler and airflow optimisation delivers drag co‑efficient of 0.23 Drives like a Jaguar: Two dynamic characters. Deep reserves of power. Refined comfort and 50:50 weight distribution. The essence of Jaguar Power in reserve: Most powerful Jaguar road car, with up to 1,030PS and 1,365Nm. Type 01 pulls from 62‑112mph (100‑180km/h) in 4.0 seconds – 0‑62mph (0‑100km/h) in 3.2 seconds Electric freedom: 850‑volt architecture and 118kWh usable battery deliver an expected EPA range of up to 400 miles. Sustained highway speed range of up to 320 miles Central spine: Cabin is split into four individual spaces with longitudinal brass‑effect anodised aluminium finishers emphasising Type 01’s scale Crystal clear: Single glass 24‑inch OLED screen optimises brightness and clarity. Central seven‑inch smartphone‑style touchscreen controls key functions Sound stage: Jaguar Immersive Sound System envelops occupants, with Sensory Audio and the automotive‑first full‑width, full‑range Panoramic Soundbar Made in Britain: Type 01 is designed, engineered and built in the UK

I just undid the 4 M8s to release the whole driver's side mount from body, then jacked sump up carefully. If I did it again I think I would also unscrew the dogbone mount to allow easier movement. Watch out also for the front bolts seizing on their way out. Abort early if this feels like it's happening.

Hi thanks for the attached, neither of the 2 stamps seem to show the 34F7 stamp, I could contact the dealership and ask them to confirm.

Agree with using the penetrating oil but, when the time comes, use a T-bar wrench so that you apply a pure torque, this minimises the risk of snapping the glowplug. 🤞for you!

Personally i would leave it as is. If the DSG functions properly.

Cheers pete They do have the bump and I got the tool a while ago. Just never got round to doing them as they werent too bad at the time. MOT soon and reckon its a fail this time as ones knocking slightly and as I already have all parts including new arms might as well do it. Didnt realise had to lift engine but have a cross beam lift as I did the clutch a while back so shouldnt be too difficult. I assume I have to remove engine support and maybe dogbone? Alasdair

Mine is a petrol 1.2

Hopefully insurance will cover it. You could phone around autolocksmiths and ask if they can clone MQB platform key. I had another look and it does look as though it requires specialist software etc. Unless they have it it wont work. We have a local one that specializes in VAG group . Alasdair

Hi Gaz, just had a quick look at the YT it's for a 1.6 diesel, the under the hood layout is different to mine, but thanks for the link anyway!

Hi Evolution, thanks for your reply. I have only owned the car since the beginning of the year so can't confirm about the oil change however I have had a look in the tire well and there are 3 stickers, one is I believe the original one put in at the time the car was built it has all the details of the car, engine, paint etc.. then 2 local dealer stamps (see pics) one is dated Dec 2014 so it might be that the work was done? Wasn't quite sure what your "'34F7'" meant. Re 'best to know what you are doing' I totally agree, my brother who does any work on the cars is a mechanical engineer and is very switched on, he has changed oil in regular gearboxes but has never worked on a DSG box in a Skoda. The Haynes paper manual does not cover the DSG and beside YT I am struggling to find exact info on what to do/ don't do for this car so hence my request here!

Thanks to Breezy_Pete for your quick reply to my parts problem. My garage have put a larger pipe over the split pipe and used jubilee clips to hold it in place. The part number 6Q2 612 041 CD and I have contacted various parts suppliers including Germany and Czech Republic but the replies are the same that the part is no longer available. My garage has assured me that their repair is good and my Farbie is safe to drive. I get the impression the only hope to get the actual part is from a breakers but not sure where the best suppliers of those type of parts is to be found so any suggestions much appreciated.

I like the big fat Elephant and would spend £120,000 on one if looking at getting a £120,000 car. But they have revealed a car with Door Handles that will not be allowed in China and maybe other countries around the globe sooner rather than later.

And I thought Irish prices were high, got my timing belt done on a 2.0tdi in June for €800 at the main Skoda dealer in my town, in fairness they did have a promotion on save €100

My 2017 is at 353,000 km, and is mostly original apart from the usual wear and tear items, only replaced the interior blower, interior fan resistor and boot struts, the MK3 is an amazing milage eater

There is an option of getting a Steel Spare wheel and a tyre fitted that has a matching near enough to the Circumference / diameter of the Tyres on the car. Just as a get you home or to tyre centre Emergency Spare. And a Jack and Tyre lever.

interesting so far I’ve only picked up 3 cans of jenolite rust converter I’m unsure after that on what to use I was thinking Lanoguard because of its ease of use and coverage but now you got me thinking about wether I should try hydrate 80. Would it be a direct replacement for the rust converter or would it go on top of the rust converter as a final coat there are so many products out there it’s pretty confusing. Or could I go dynax on top of my rust converter. Any help is appreciated guys the one thing set in stone is the the first coat will be jenolite as I already have it and might aswell use it as my base coat rust converter

Hi, I’ve recently bought an Elroq 85 edition. Great so far, I knew when purchased that there is no spare wheel. While it is the case that the supplied puncture Kit may be sufficient for certain situations it won’t be for all. My car has different tyres sizes back and front and has the 21 inch wheel. Other than getting a spare of each size is there a space saver option? Thanks Andrew

Many years ago I had a rusty drain shovel/spade that I coated the handle with Hydrate 80. Amazing transformation, it was smooth like paint once cured, and it's been like it ever since, and it has lived outside in the weather, still no sign of rust. Having said that, I use fertan for vehicles as it can get into places more easily than Hydrate 80. I haven't tried the spray gun yet for Dynax, but I've bought a LVLP gun ready. I bought a kit of various nozzles from Amazon for the spray cans, so I coud get a fan nozzle. IMO it's much more use than the round one supplied. The nozzles are handy as they will fit male as well as female cans, just by swapping the inserts over. For the S50 cavity lances, you need to dunk the ends in white spirit immediately. after using to make sure they don't get gunged up. and let a few drops run down the pipe.

Will get some when it is clean.

Ok. If it's not an original part, we don't have to deal with it. Thank you!

While I do have the diesel 200 hp 3 years already, I would suggest the petrol version for a used car. We don't know how long the fuel prices will be that high, but still the diesel efficiency is "eaten" by the cheaper petrol price. TSI is very efficient. The diesel is much more complicated and there are so many expensive things which might broke - DPF, AdBlue, etc, while I've never heard someone complaining from a GPF on petrol VW. There is also less stress on the DSG gearbox DQ381 on the petrol version, due to the less torque it has. However, I love that torque feeling on the diesel version more than on the petrol :D

Once vag wheels get to a certain age they all leak from the bead seals. At about £200 to powder coat a set puts an end to the constant air top ups for me. Have had 3 cars done myself. Also any kerb damage and general delamination gets fixed. Plus I go for something darker and they look cleaner for longer eve with brake dust over them.