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Exactly this

It's in the phone settings submenu on my Samsung A55, and has been a feature on my Samsung phones for many years.

The Superb MK3 can leave with factory with increased ride height, standard ride height, or lowered ride height. Many Superb MK3 owners find the suspension on the soft side, but the spring rates are similar to the Passat B8...so it may be down to the shock absorbers. The cheapest way to improve the handling is to fit slightly stiffer rear springs, such as the rear springs from the estate, ie. 3Q0511115M. A more expensive way to improve the handling is to fit Bilstein B6 shock absorbers (if standard ride height) or Bilstein B8 shock absorbers (if lowered ride height). Before making any final decisions on what rear springs to go for, it's best to check what rear springs the car left the factory with. Creating an account on "skoda parts com" and parking the car (with its VIN number) in the online garage enables you to find the rear springs that the car left the factory with. Rear springs (according to the Kilen online spring catalogue) Superb MK3 2.0TSI 272PS 4x4 hatchback 3Q0511115AL Superb MK3 2.0TSI 272PS 4x4 estate 3Q0511115M Below, I've used the Sachs listings on autodoc to find out what the approximate specification of 3Q0511115AL and 3Q0511115M rear springs are. In the Superb MK3 parts catalogue, 3Q0511115M is shown as one up in the hierarchy compared to 3Q0511115AL. Sachs rear springs matching 3Q0511115AL Length 359mm Wire diameter 12.5mm Number of coil turns 8.0 Sachs rear springs matching 3Q0511115M Length 360mm Wire diameter 12.75mm Number of coil turns 8.0 Kilen 65126 rear springs (matches 3Q0511115M) (about £34 each) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352663645884

If you don't want to lower I would go for B6 shocks as the valving is the same as the shocks on the B12 kit but it is for those after a performance upgrade but do not wish to lower.

First service, 30000 kms 12 months, oil and all filters , 340 €....2.0 l tdi 4x4, Greece, official service network

Hi, Earlier this year I bought a 2026 Octavia IV RS Combi, and it came with 225/45 r18 summer tires. It's this time of year that I have to start thinking about getting a winter setup. I've noticed that even current gen Golf's use 225/40 R18 tire size, and quite a lot other cars do as well. I've also noticed that 225/40 R18 size has much more new premium tire models available (like Michelin CrossClimate3 Sport, or Goodyear Vector All Seasons 4), while they're not available in 225/45 R18 size. And interesting tires that are available in both sizes, like Pirelli SF3 are exactly 50% more expensive in the 45 profile compared to 40 profile. Needless to say, I see a lot of benefits of going with th 225/40 R18 for my winter tires setup, but that will give me over 3% smaller wheel diameter. Therefore does anyone know if that will work? Won't abs/esp go crazy? Is it possible to modify the wheel diameter in the car computer using a new OBD Eleven interface perhaps?

Replying to the OP, I have had my Octavia 4.5 manual since new in March 2025 (built late 2024) and it has done 8,600 miles. It is brilliant on dual carriageways, motorways and long journeys. My only concern is with Assist Brake (AEB) and I have just written about this on a different thread; I do not know whether an automatic (DSG) would work better with AEB and I am waiting for replies on the other thread. I have had no other issues at all with the car. It was given a Main Dealer service at 5,000 miles. To recap, the car has been brilliant to own and drive except for the AEB. It will take 5 passengers in comfort. The rear seats can be folded down and the boot space is enormous. I know a taxi driver with a diesel Mk4 and it has done 100K miles quite happily. It is a large car to park in small parking spaces and the doors open a long way out.

After the issues with the radio it’s more than my marriage is worth to be spending more money on “pointless upgrades”!

Octavia 4.5 with manual gearbox: Yes, I have had this a few times. If the revs drop too low in third approaching a junction it will cut out, sometimes even in second with the wheels still turning. It's not a huge issue. I always use Shell VPower but don't know whether that makes a difference either way.

Famous last words

I bought my Octavia 4.5 with manual gearbox in March 2025 with 22 miles on delivery - i.e. brand new with delivery mileage. Since then I have had 5 activations of Assist Brake (AEB) where it slowed instantly to a complete halt and stalled the engine. On all of these occasions, I was in complete control of the car and there was no danger to me or anyone else, but the car knew better. On three of these occasions, the car came to a halt and left me blocking the road and in danger from other traffic; I was left to restart the car and hope that I would get away from danger; on one of these occasions, there wasn't another vehicle for hundreds of yards in front or behind but Assist Brake objected to me making a right turn. On the other two occasions, the activation was nonsensical, e.g. I arrived at a T junction to turn left and was looking R-L-R, when a white van drove along the main road from left to right and the Assist Brake saw this and activated. I'm becoming used to the activations now, can recognise what is happening, and can restart the car and move off fairly quickly. Obviously, Assist Brake and subsidiary functions can be turned off but this has to be done every time the ignition is turned on. I like the car but I am thinking that Assist Brake and a manual gearbox don't go together. Questions: 1) Does anyone else with an Octavia 4.5 with manual gearbox have any experience of erroneous activations? 2) Can the sensitivity be turned down by using the in-car controls? 3) Can the sensitivity be turned down by the dealership? 4) With an automatic gearbox (DSG), would the car actually stall the engine or just stop with the engine running? If so, in which gear? 5) Do other VAG cars with manual gearboxes (e.g. the current Golf) have the same Assist Brake technology?

Thanks Martin I'll give that a go! I really appreciate your reply. Neil

No worries; I also bought McGard 28025SUB which are 41mm long locking wheel bolts that fit. Standard length is 27mm so these are more like 14mm long rather than 11mm but I tentatively tried them as suggested and there was no fouling behind the hub. I would still just test each wheel (spin slowly when still jacked up) just in case (my experience at the mo is that nothing goes to plan)

So I recently bought a mk2 Octavia VRs so that I can spend some time on getting the car exactly how I want it and I’m getting there mechanically. My next thought is the underside of the car as it is now 15 years old and I really want to keep this car long term I want to start looking at protecting it. I jacked her up and had a quick look today and the pinch points are pretty swollen in places also noticed the arms look pretty rusty but that’s as far as I got without removing trays etc. My question is what would be the major things to looks to strip back and seal or replace. Also are the pinch points repairable? I will try and get some pics on here tomorrow any help is much appreciated.

in this thread there is some mention of the car being limited to 250Nm, to accommodate a DQ200 but apart from that, I don't know. If you are looking at a car, you will be able to tell if it is a DQ381 by opening the bonnet and locating the screw-on filter https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/540032-servicing/#comment-6017721

Local garage not sepcslist

my shop has when missing since the new update

Nomad boot liner for a superb hatch, excellent condition. £12 Collection from DY5

do you have facebook messenger

i have the same issue since installing 0334, also the pop up boxes and to big, it is like the wrong res, does anyone know how i can reinstall . thanks

Welcome to the forum. Where was the repair for this vehicle done?

Hello, Im looking to upgrade the stock suspension on my 2018 octavia vrs but as I've never done anything like this before im not entirely confident in what im looking at. Ive been thinking about the Bilstein B12 pro suspension kit as this seems like a slight upgrade over Oem and im not all that interested in lowering too much. I appreciate any suggestions or advice anyone may have, Cheers

https://www.skoda-parts.com/online-store.html If you register on there and stick your vin in and save the car, it’s a good way of cross checking part numbers

Without any pictures I'm not 100% sure what you are talking about but looking at pictures of Roomster engine bays online I think it's similar to our Citigo... If you undo the positive terminal to the battery the fuses and plastic boxes on top that are fixed to the terminal should come away with it. They are, however, clipped to the side of the battery so you'll need to pull them up whilst releasing the clips by pulling the centre section outwards away from the side of the battery.

Screen seems to be good as far as I can tell. Old unit as MIB 2 worked perfectly. Some kind of issue during the upgrade corrupted the eeprom. Spent the last week learning about uart and PAB connected remotely this evening to try to fix it. But it can’t be written to or read through the terminal. Needs a physical connection to the eeprom directly to reflash it unfortunately. I have a friend who is an electronics engineer and he offered to have a look but we would both be learning what’s needed and winging it whereas I can send it to an expert and get a plug and play unit back. This is the last thing I do to the car. Essential maintenance only from here on in!