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I knew that most chargers located in car parks also make you pay the parking charge as well. I also recall reading a post on here before about being charged a minimum fee, and I was wondering if that charge still applied today now that there are improved facilities for electric cars.

Thanks for that I had, as yet, never come across a minimum charge. Did have one pub that added a £1 connection fee I assume the charging cost went to the CPO so the pub was charging for parking.

I fitted a replacement Instrument cluster (pre-owned) it would not be accepted. I re-fitted the original, only to find that the ECU 03 Brake electronics had lost it's Long Code. Would you be able to recover the original Long Code and instal it into the ECU ?

Been on 45 minutes and charged only 4kWh. So £2.00. The 22kW AC tethered charger cable which would be giving me 11 KW is no longer on the Big DC charger. That was what wrongly had you paying 70 pence a kWh. The £5 minimum charge on the supposed 11 kW AC I am on means many will be like me and occupy the charger for longer than they might normally. It is pure stupidity that the minimum charge cost is not just £2.00. PS. The big / rapid 50 kW DC charger is out of service.

The boot of the Mk2 is the same shape as the Mk1 so you should be able to find one more readily for that car

Hi, i have a Rapid Spaceback 2018 Like Trim, yesterday i changed the original radio (swing mib2 entry) for a seat discover media, everything goes plug & play but the radio keeps always on and doesn't recognize the ignition switch nor the parking camera. Did i need to buy some type of adapter or canbus module or the radio is incompatible? Swing radio: Version of the new radio: Sorry for my bad english 😅

Can you not just use the usbc socket by the rear view mirror? I have a front and rear Viofo that records incidents when parked and it’s plugged into that.

Why a shame for PHEVs, it looks like the minimum £5 applies to your BEV as well. That £5 would buy a lot miles when home charging.

My tip is to highlight all the mounting clips positions and take a picture of it - for my wife's 2015 VW Polo 5 door, I stuck small bits of masking tape to the outer surface to highlight where they all are - and took a photo - for making refitting it easier, and removing the next time less troublesome! I ended up with a metal clip escaping and "wandering" around the rear hatch door frame - that was maybe 6 years ago, every summer I consider taking that panel off to resolve that annoying noise!

Only food and sauces. Shame for phev drivers with a £5 min charge .

Did you get a full pre delivery report, check sheet showing everything done under their rigorous checking procedure? Full body and mechanical checks, and safety checks! Did you inspect it closely or have anyone do it for you before purchase?. I am a former car repairer and sprayer and a trader.. It is amazing how blind some car buyers are.

Hi, i'm from spain and i have a skoda rapid spaceback 2018, it's a pleasure to meet y'all

When a professional dealer sells a vehicle presented as pristine, but it actually conceals massive structural repairs and undisclosed heavy fillers, the situation goes far beyond a simple oversight. Even though the vehicle has a history with previous owners and transfers, consumer protection laws hold professional sellers to a high standard of transparency, penalizing misleading omissions. The buyer is not challenging a minor cosmetic scratch, but a hidden defect severe enough to undermine the very basis of the purchase. Consequently, legal action relies not on the assumption that a quick visual check should have caught it, but on the principle that trading a compromised asset without proper disclosure breaches the contract, justifying full restitution and compensation.

@cristi_r22 how many previous registered keepers? And when did you buy the 5 year old car? A dealership selling a used car might do a visual inspection and maybe done by someone with poor eye sight. But they have not had the car from new. A new car can be damaged from the factory to the first supplying dealer or anytime really. Why do you think you can take an action against the Dealership. Worth a mention you are in Romania.

@Joco776 How can you help?

I'll keep you updated. The car is mint and done 102k miles there is zero wear on the drivers seat so I'm guessing it's been mainly motorway miles. I live in Farnborough so if you know any good garages that can do the work please let me know. I've done a quick Google and SJB Autotech have some good reviews. Thanks again.

Relevant HVAC measurements are refrigerant pressure, compressor load (actual and requested), evaporator temperature and vent temperatures. You can deduce many airco problems from these. Refrigerant pressure measured prior to engine startup should be 5+ bars on a hot day, see my last post in this thread from sometime ago: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503690-airco-refrigerant-pressure-climatronic-typical-values/ When running engine and compressor, after a while high side pressure should be above 10bar at 20degC ambient, and above 16bar at 30degC ambient. There are more exact tables and charts of temp vs pressure, do a search. Remember the sensor shows absolute pressure (0 is absolute vacuum), while most Internet charts show pressure above ambient, so 1 bar less. With temp set to low and airco fan running on full, evaporator temperature should be low several deg C, perhaps up to 10degC on a really hot day and stationary car with idling engine. Compressor load helps see that cooling is actually requested and that the compressor responds, and also useful if you overfill the system. One thing worth also checking in case of inconsistent behaviour is if the front airco fan (behind engine and airco radiators) switches on and works OK. if the fan or relay fails, cooling efficiency depends much more on whether the car is moving rather than just ambient temperature. There's a whole host of other potential issues, eg freezing water in the system, stuck expansion valve etc., but on a system that has worked well in the past, the above would be my starting point for diagnostics. HTH

@ThomBrink můžu vám ten problém vyřešit.

The workshop manual does have information on paint - I’m not able to access it now, however, but maybe somewhere to look?

Do make sure the above service items are adhered to - no dealer acknowledges that the DSG has a replaceable filter, for example. It would be interesting to see/hear about the condition of the fluid in the diff. While 50k without a service isn’t good, I wouldn’t be overly concerned just yet. You don’t know what sort of use the car has had, so it may be absolutely fine. I would go to a decent indie however, rather than a dealer. Whereabouts are you based?

Interesting. For paint thickness I’m not sure you’ll find anything that will hold them bang to rights. Although some of those figures sound horrendous - not sure my NexPTG would read paint that thick. As for recourse on damage, having always had a weird shape in my rear bumper since buying it at 6m old from a Carr’s Exeter in Sept ‘21 as the GM’s company car, and now having been hit up the rear last week, you can see evidence that the rear bumper has been damaged and filled before respray. They never mentioned a thing - I wouldn’t have cared. I’d never get anything from them but it was a **** move by them.

Must get myself here next year 😁

Best I could manage with a cheap Amazon cardboard and plastic solar filter And the sunset after the moon made way

So, which of the very many live data parameters (or, is it not in live data) gave information about AC system pressure? thanks,

Ok then. Let's hope the studs are made of some pretty amazing steel to take that torque without snapping.