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Ok so you probably have it a bit easier than the Superb guys. The big thing with the LCAs is that the key variant is track width of the car - determined by how long the width-section of the arms are and depending on a number of things the main one being which version of the mqb chassis you have. Despite the whole MQB is MQB - it isn't. There's MQB A0 (eg polo/fabia), MQB A1 (Golf/Octy) and MQB-B (Superb/Passat). Bigger the chassis, generally the wider the track width but there are variations. For example, Audi RS3 is MQB-A1 but understandably has a wide track. The front track width of the Golf is 1541mm. The Octavia is 1535mm so 6mm across the car which is nothing. Superb is 1584mm. So the Superpro TRC1070 which is deemed as applicable to anything coming out of Germany is meant for MQB-A1. Fine for yours and will do well (don't bother with TRC1071 which gives increased caster - its a pub-quoting improvement rather than anything that's going to get you anywhere if you're not doing things like track days and corner balancing). But stick the TRC1070 on a Superb and it pulls the bottom of the wheels in giving you positive caster, unable to get a decent 4wa and putting strains on other components. I have TT arms on mine. The Delphi version is TC4442/TC4443 but they weren't in stock so I went for KYB which are KSC4260/KSC4261. Its odd as the Delphi is quoted as being for the Passat but the KYB aren't. Tbh, they seem exactly the same. It definitely feels nice and solid and I think that's because of the solid rear bush. The old ones didn't look bad coming off but there is definitely a more solid feel to it. Weight wise, 2% of SweetFA in the grand scheme of things but either marginal gains matter to you or they don't. Alu arms were £75 each, but with £35 shipping from Spareto in Estonia so £180. It said DHL would handle shipping and duty but what that means, is they'll pay it so they can pass through customs and deliver and then hit you with the re-charge. That was an unforeseen extra £53 so c.£230 in all. You can avoid a lot of that by ordering from somewhere in the UK. In fact: Link for Delphi Front Right on ebay Link for Delphi Front Left on ebay As for subframe, they all seem the same. In fact, they're right across the Passat range right down to the 1.4, so I was thinking about getting a pre-loved one from ebay, and as I have a redundant Racingline dogbone mount insert for a certain type of dogbone mount, I might as well go for one that has the same type (they differ by engine code - I found that out the hard way but I posted the list so you can enjoy). So what do you get? The alu one is lighter naturally but stiffer as its more solid - the steel one is stamped steel sheeting so it has more flex in it. Will we notice? Probably not without telemetry. As @OccyVRS says, if you're going to do it, you might as well save a load of hassle and get the front anti-roll bar done too as it sits above the subframe which needs to be dropped to change the arb. And this will absolutely throw out the alignment so queue up one of those for shortly after too. Front droplinks don't need to be changed unless you switch to coilovers or shocks where the mounting point is in a lower position than standard parts. But your suspension is only as good as its weakest parts so...why not. They're straightforward to change (note you need an M6 triple square) and if they replacements are adjustable you can really dial out any pre-load on the anti-rollbar (if, as said before, the mounting point on the shock is lower and putting torsion on the arb). I'd absolutely advise getting a balljoint splitter if you don't have one too. The lower balljoints are a bugger to get out with a mallet! I think that's everything I can think of for now. Oh, and make sure the dogbone bolts go into the DSG casing straight - its a very bad day to realise you've crossed and it needs helicoiling.

@Grimlock did you manage to disable the TSR ? I’ve activated a trial 1 month available in the shop and I also am missing the option to disable it with an on/off toggle in the „Assistants” menu. If it’s not possible to disable it then I’m not sure I want to purchase the full version…

Probably like painting the Forth Bridge. I see there is an outbreak of Magic stations which my mib2 hasn't got but back home those are out of bounds. Magic may be in there but being away I havent tried and I've never done a mib2 high logo bulk update. We have the ability to in fill logos which mib3 people were not trusted with... can't be having users hacking mib3... might put those 5,000 Caraid programmers out of a job. Heaven forbid.

Just updated the Golf in the UK, new logos for the BBC, Kiss stations, they're missing the Xmas stations (seasonal anyway) and Track Radio on London 2, Capital Xtra and LBC on FM but not DAB which is weird.

Ages ago on this thread I mentioned that I am aspiring to OEM or OEM+ look for my Caddy. At that time, the obtrusively blue throttle body hose was pointed-out as an obvious departure from this look. I already had this on my to do list when it was suggested, but an under-bonnet hose which was doing its job perfectly well has struggled to make its way to the top of the list. This changed when I had the throttle body off a couple of times in the process of investigating the intermittent engine fault (see later), and I realised that re-fitting a part which I wanted to replace made little sense. Having the blue hose off also made it very straightforward to check the diameters of the two ends, to make sure I ordered an appropriate replacement. That’s better 😊 Reliability issues have been blighting my enjoyment of the Caddy for a few years. I like to think I am a competent problem-solver, but a lot of my attention has been devoted to my SEAT Ibiza, so whilst I have implemented a couple of fixes on the Caddy, I have not spent the time to get to the root cause of the issues. I am lucky in that I never have to rely on the Caddy, so I just have not taken it out very often. This is a shame, and needed to be sorted. The symptoms were that it started on the ‘button’ every time, even after sitting for weeks, and the engine ran beautifully, until it stopped. No misfire, no poor running, it just stopped. Sometimes it would fire-up again immediately, and other times it would not fire at all. How long it would run for, and how long it would refuse to run for, both appeared to be completely random. Sometimes it was seconds, and sometimes days. I do hate intermittent faults! These symptoms are similar to what I saw when the ECU failed previously, although with that there was a definite decline in reliability, so as the problems became more common it became easier to diagnose the fault. Fuel supply issues have also plagued this car, both with the fuel pump and the control of it, and even though the old adage ‘if it spits and farts it’s fuel, if it stops dead it’s electrical’ is well-proven, I still could not quite put aside my suspicions that I was seeing more of the same. With this in mind, I started by connecting my tell-tale lead to the fuel pump… … and a pressure gauge into the fuel supply line. With those in place it was a simple case of running the engine and waiting for it to cut-out. Except it ran perfectly. I tried several times, for about twenty minutes each time, and it refused to fail. I did notice that the fuel pressure is slightly lower than I was expecting, at 2.8bar, but that pressure was steady and was held after the engine was switched-off, so I ruled-out a pump issue. I will swap the FPR for a 4bar one, but 2.8bar should be plenty for the Caddy’s state of tune, and certainly would not cause the symptoms I was seeing. My ODBII Bluetooth dongle point blank refused to scan the Caddy for fault codes, meaning that I had to dig-out my trusty diagnostic laptop. For some reason the dongle wanted a VIN in a format that the Caddy simply does not have, whereas the laptop software allows you to try all addresses and scan any modules which respond, and also lets you edit a txt file to add specific vehicles to the options list. This is very handy for modified cars. Scanning the Caddy gave me the following food for thought: Ignoring the last item regarding the message from the ABS controller, which is irrelevant, the others make interesting reading, although it took me a while to figure them out. The ECU’s connection to each of the listed components controls them via individual switched earth outputs, and the code 29-10 tells me that a problem with the wiring loom is the most likely culprit. This is particularly interesting because whilst all of these circuits connect to the ECU, they are not all in the same loom at any point. The ME3.8 ECU in the Caddy has two separate wiring connectors, even though the ElsaWin current flow diagrams represent both connectors in the combined T80. One of the ECU connectors, with pins 1-52, goes to the vehicle-side loom. This includes the fuel pump relay and charcoal cannister purge valve connections, on adjacent pins. The other connector, with pins 53-80, goes to the engine loom. This includes the connections to each of the injectors, and the N75 valve, all of which are adjacent to each other in the ECU plug. No wonder I have struggled to diagnose this, it is looking like two separate intermittent faults. I already have an imperfect mitigation in place for the fuel pump relay / purge valve short circuit, in the form of the bypass switch I fitted previously. That could cause the purge valve to open unnecessarily, but this will not cause the engine to cut-out. I can afford to leave the permanent fix of this until the remedy is in place for the engine loom fault. I do not understand why the injector and N75 valve controls shorting to each other and/or or to earth would cause the engine to stop abruptly without any sign of rough-running or mis-fire, but nonetheless it is clear that it is not going to be helpful, and needs to be sorted. The involvement of the N75 boost control valve also helps to explain the fact that the fault did not appear when the engine was idling on the driveway, as no boost => no action for the N75 valve. There are two obvious options for the engine loom fix, which are a) locate the damaged section of loom and make repairs, or b) replace the whole engine loom. I have a few 1.8T engine looms, but they vary by engine code, and I do not have one for the AGU engine in the Caddy. I could modify a loom to make it work, but that is not a quick task. I will make a custom engine loom for it at some point, but now is not the right time. That leaves me repairing the current loom. If the VCDS log is pointing me in the right direction, the faults are located at or close to the ECU connectors, so that was where I started. Once I had some of the convoluted sleeve and wrapping tape removed from the loom, it revealed some loose ends of cable, and some wires which had three or four solder joins within about 300mm. Neither of these things necessarily contribute to the problem at hand, but they do present unnecessary risks for future failures. While I had my head in the loom I figured I may as well do a proper job, so I exposed more of the engine bay wiring until I got to this. The vehicle loom ECU connector itself was in a sorry state. It had become brittle, and snapped in two locations when I unplugged it. I had recently bought a genuine new replacement connector, which was handy. The photo below shows the old connector, and I have included it to show the number of cut-off ends of cables, and I have arranged all of the other unused wires off towards the bottom of the picture just to show how many of them there were. One of the connections which I got rid of was that for the carbon cannister purge valve. I had been planning on deleting the carbon cannister before the purge valve made an appearance on the VCDS fault scan, and there will never be a better opportunity. Whilst the loom was unwrapped it was very easy to remove any trace of the wiring to this valve. I extended the tank breather hose to the front corner of the inner wing, where I will add a rollover valve. When I had finished rationalising and tidying the connections in the loom, I bound it temporarily with cable ties, before plugging it all back in. The new and newly sparse ECU vehicle loom connector can be seen at the bottom left of this picture. Before attempting to start the engine, I had one more long overdue task to do. I had noticed that the hose between the induction pipe and the MAF was split, so I had ordered a 70mm silicone 45deg elbow and a Ramair cone air filter, plus an alloy joiner to go between them. Ideally I would like an OEM-look airbox, and I had hoped that a Golf mk4 GTI airbox might fit, but the available space in the Caddy is an awkward shape. At least I got rid of a polished alloy pipe in favour of a black silicone hose. It was a great relief when the engine burst keenly back into life on the first turn of the key, and with no indications on the dash that I had made any mistakes with the wiring. I did not have the time for a long test drive, but I did a couple of laps round the block, and made a point of deploying some boost (sorry neighbours) with no signs of it cutting-out. The proper test drive will be a nervous time.

If I was a betting man (I'm not!) I'd say it'll be the slave. My previous Superb had a "funny" feel at one point that turned out to be a valve within the slave cylinder. Replacement restored normal service.

You mean on the shocks? If yes, yes it is. I've replaced them 2 months ago... It's written "BILSTEIN / 22-183729" on them. If you mean on the Coil Springs, it's 2 pink paint marks. They look perfectly fine. No new bump stops yet. But they are there for when you bottom out anyway, no?

Huh? He's in Croatia. That's definitely LHD!

Try also in FAT32 putting on the individual tracks in order rather than copy and pasting the whole file. Also try with an SD card of 64Gb.

Are the paint identification markers still visible on them? Bump stops replaced as well?

Hi all, Since I bought my mk2 Octavia Scout, I have a gigantic clunk when the dampers are decompressing. It happens in all 4 wheels independently. I've replaced everything in the suspensions (Strut mounts, ARB bushings, ARB rods, and dampers). I've replaced the shocks absorber with the Bilstein 22-183729. They are advised on ETKA for the vehicles with the "Heavy Duty Suspension" and the PR codes UB2, G07, L66, which are mine (see picture). And the problem is still the exact same! I came to the conclusion that the shocks are too short for the Scout version I own and they are topping out when I go down a speed bump, a pothole or whatever. When I look at the characteristics of the dampers, the extended lenght of all available versions is the same: 552mm. For both heavy duty and regular suspension, including the Bilstein I've installed. But the Scout version of the car is supposed to be sitting higher... - So is there actually a difference in lenght in Scout and Regular Octavia's dampers? - If yes, what's the actual reference of them? - If no, where could my issue come from? I'm now 4 years and too much € deep into this, I need to find a solution... Thanks heaps y'all for your help!

I am having similar challenges getting a CV boot kit for my 55 plate vRS So far I have in my hand from ECP 656780050 GKN/Lobro Pack also says 303558 about £24. The spline M12 is correct according to AI anyway and it has all the other parts and the material the boot it made of is stiffer material, than the universal one that only lasted about 2 years and under 2k. The measurements look about right. I also have a backup GSF GSP803024 coming tomorrow that is CV inc boot kit for £55ish

Postscript to this thread. The fault stopped being intermittent so I took the car to a trusted VAG group mechanic. Initially they diagnosed a tube actuator arm problem but after cleaning the fault went away so initially I thought we had a very cheap fix. Car worked well for a fortnight and then the fault returned. Ultimately we had to replace the whole turbo unit. it was an expensive fix but I've had over a year of trouble free motoring since and if I get another year or two out of the car it will have been money well spent. It's been a reliable workhorse, 108,000 miles and 12 years old now so in some ways every year is a bonus.

Nope!

Do u have a sunroof?

I'm think I've tried all three, can't remember. I can do it again, but it will be tomorrow as I've got my slippers on and it's raining. There is no mad hurry. Ta.

Nice history Chris 47. I remember when the joke Skoda brand became car of the year with the first Fabia back in the mid nineties. I’ve got an Octavia estate for my tools. Nice but bit too much fragile tech for me on this eco friendly PHEV at least compared to my old MK3 Mondeo estate.

On kopacek.com they list them as fitting - fits ALL Octavia IV COMBI models they don't list anything for 4.5 and I would seriously doubt that Skoda changed the shape of the windows/doors seeing as it was basically just a facelift. It might be worth shotting them an email to check though... [email protected]

Hi again. Still have the same probleem.🙂 Does anyone with a Skoda Octavia IV (2020–2022), where Coming Home and Leaving Home are working correctly, have a VCDS measuring values log from 09 – Central Electrics (BCM)? I'm particularly interested in these values: Sensor_Error1 Sensor_Error2 Sensor_Error3 Sensor_Error4 On my 2021 Octavia IV, the first three values are 0, but Sensor_Error4 = 1. My Coming Home and Leaving Home functions are not working, even though the light sensor detects darkness correctly and the BCM adaptations appear to be correct. I'd like to compare these values with a working Octavia IV to see whether Sensor_Error4 = 1 is normal. If anyone could check these values or share their blockmap-09 CSV file, I'd really appreciate it! Thanks!

That is really helpful, Alisdair. Thank you very much. Nigel

Read Error Log

Hi Had airbag warning light on last year and after a cost was reset, with no issues found. Recently it back on again, I had just take stuff to the local tip back seats were down ect. I feels this could be costly if I take it to garage and the same outcome. What should I do ? Recommendations? John

Thanks. I’ve ordered one. Will be good to see if there is a drain or if the battery is indeed on the way out.

He must have missed that the first time you posted it.

Your car is right hand drive.