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No they weren't missing. I removed them to help with the dry out, I just wanted to check where the vent/breather holes were. Apparently, they should have some but no one knows where they are 🤔
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@jonathan.tong Did you find the cause of the problem ?
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Chances are the cluster specialist is in a nice heated room. When you said cold start they probably thought engine was cold. Not sure how easy it would be as a DIY as you said. Probably best let an expert do it. Alasdair
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My understanding is that Castrol were involved in the development of the relevant oils for the later turbocharged 1.0 litre engines. Apparently they developed a product that has a very low sulphated ash content to protect the exhaust particulate filter and the catalytic converter. Also the turbocharger needs to have an oil with very high temperature stability and shear resistance. This is to reduce carbonisation and varnish deposits and sludge build up. Other oil producers may or may not meet the Castrol Edge/ Volkswagen specs of VW 504/00, 507/00 and VW508/00, 509/00. As I am planning to keep the car for many years, I will buy the Castrol Edge Volkswagen spec oil from my local Tesco at £54 for 4 litres plus Tesco Club Card points. I cannot advise what Volkswagen main dealers practice is, but when I owned a one year old turbocharged Nissan eight years ago, I discovered that amongst other poor practices, my local Nissan main dealer was knowingly putting in the wrong spec oil from their bulk purchased contract drums with an oil supplier. This is why I always buy and supply my own parts, Castrol oils and filters ( Mann) to a locally trusted independent garage, or sometimes for the fun of it if the weather is nice, I do it myself. If I have my Škoda for 9 years at 12,000 miles per year, I expect I will change the oil twelve times. If I pay £30 over the odds each year for this period compared to buying a cheap oil, then I will have paid £360 over the odds overall compared to a cheap oil. However I will have done my best to keep the turbocharger and cat in good health. I would still do the same if I planned to part exchange the car after 3 years since it would only have cost me £120 over the odds in the shorter period for the peace of mind of using the correct oil and being able to prove it by receipts at trade in time.
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No. Use the two holes that are covered by the rubber access seals that you have already removed in the photo above. Unless they are missing? Thanks. AG Falco
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@Lord_Moppy thanks for the info - that issue does sound very similar. Not sure why the instrument cluster specialist didn't pick this up (although problem had gone away - did think their diagnostic techniques would factor this in though as I told them its cold start problem). Thanks for the part numbers too, will find someone to replace them (assuming its not a DIY job). Trying to avoid going down the route of replacing the cluster and having to find someone to recode it. I'll report back when I get round to doing it. Thanks again - much appreciated.
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From memory, anything below 8 mOhms is ok.
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Resistance not a little high? For comparison i tested the same battery in a friends car but a year older. His read over 600 amps and a resistance of 3.7 millohms.
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I have used a smart charger a few times. Didn’t make any difference, offen says the battery is full after only 30-40 mins.
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38% health while SOC at >95% is pretty low and tends to suggest your battery is suffering from hard sulphation - which will probably not be fully reversible. Internal res looks OK. A recovery charge programme may help, but approaching winter could well finish it off.
Today
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respi02 joined the community
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It would come up as one of the selection you get by pressing the rocker switch on end of wiper stalk, mpg, outside temp etc. I think.
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Don’t think I can but not 100 percent sure how would I even go about doing that
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Tried to move it, i think the front brakes are well bound up now. yay. in BEST news the gear shift was a bit stiff and then it went POP and now the gear lever wobbles around freely, it will select gears but something's popped off in an annoying way. You fix 7 things and another 10 go wrong. Maybe 28 year old cars aren't the best when all you have a drive way and not much free time. I might try and DRAG it up some ramps and have a crawl under it again.
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I can't seem to find it in the parts catalogue for your VIN, but I think you need to look anyway, may be able to see wiring going to it down the back of the sump, from engine bay if it's present. Can you display oil temperature on the cluster display?
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Expose those black/yellow wires from destination (MAF etc.) to the 14 way connector until something is visible. If you let me know the VIN, I can look up whether your car has the oil level/temp sensor. I'll message you to ask for it.
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Yigit42 joined the community
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I’ll have to check if I have a sensor in the sump because I’m not 100 percent sure but it’s bloody rattling it down so it’s making this 10x harder but thanks how would I go about checking for that short
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0.1 is basically a dead short, so if that was with MAF and PAS 4-way (not the big two-way one) connectors unplugged , and you haven't got a sensor in the bottom of the sump, then there is a wiring short somewhere.
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I had both the power steering and the maf disconnected at one point and the number hovered about 0.1 then with the maf connected about the same and same again
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Yep. 🙂
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Skoda Superb Mark II 2014. Just back from the MOT so maybe a mechanic moved something. But when cabin climate fan turned on, this clicking noise begins. Seems to be coming from under the foot well. Disappears when fan turned off. If fan speed increased it can turn into a whining sound. Debris in a filter? Bearing of some type? Something loose? How can I explore further? Many, many thanks. IMG_1913.mov
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holly62 joined the community
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That’s the maf isn’t it?
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Press the hold button again and it will go back to displaying live reading. Start with MAF connected. Show me a pic of 'sensor connected to airbox' please, so I can check what it is.
