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The passenger side seemed too fat to fit & I didn’t want to bend the wiper arm, I’ll try again tomorrow with the bonnet up to see if I can get more leverage

I found a mHev Ford suv we hired in New Zealand to be quite frustrating to drive. The small battery soon filled so the retardation recuperation would suddenly end partway down a hill and the braking characteristics changed without warning.

True! Think I will stick with the one I’ve seen. Deffo didn’t want a pan roof due to previous experience with a U boat Audi. Never again.

The trouble with later facelift is you then get MIB3 infotainment which tends to be buggy, and also ADAS becomes more intrusive.

I’ve seen both of those, good specs on both, but early facelift with Gen 3B, not a deal breaker for the right price I suppose. No similar car, private sale.

Is the facelift one you’re going to look at a 280? Quattrotech in Cambridge have a facelift and pre facelift 280 for sale currently.

I do two trips to the borders and two trips to the French Alps a year, everything else is short trips max 40 mins Oh now @travs threw a spanner in the works with the gen 4 888 🙈

Hi According to the Bosch website those are the correct ones, I have just changed the ones on mine , they were tight but did fit, only the rear one is different on newer vehicles https://app.boschwiperblades.com/-/en-gb/478dafb54dab9771f6adabf9705fe54dd0d454ee/period_4269_1705_07_2017_03_2023/SKODA_Karoq_2017-2023

I have a 190PS diesel. It will spin the wheels through a couple of gears easily. Would love it to be 4x4. Certainly the fastest and punchiest car I’ve ever driven, especially accelerating from 50mph plus on motorway. Plenty fast enough acceleration to get you in to trouble! Diesel vs petrol all depends on your travel distances. When I got the car I was commuting 45 mins each way 5 days a week. Now I’m wfh mostly and do lots of short trips and the occasional 4-5 hr each way work trip a couple of times a month. Enough to blow the cobwebs out hopefully. If I was buying now I’d probably go petrol as all the long trips I do are on expenses so cost isn’t so much of an issue.

I have I idel in my Skoda fobia Monte Carlo 2016 1.2. I have changed the throttle body and spark plugs but, still ideling and the car goes to lump mood. I'm getting the sign for EPC traction sign. Sometimes engine sign. Can someone help me please

Recently purchased a mk3 superb Upon a detail came across a kodiaq rubber boot mat This doesn’t fit the superb And also it’s something I don’t want Anyone local to south wales interested in it? Looks like this But can get a photo when I remember

Correction 21 plate ( can’t find how to Edit post)

You don’t state what engine and gearbox you have and if 4x4 as that will all impact what’s included. E.g petrol will need spark plugs, DSG and haldex for 4x4 have servicing requirements. I have a copy of the Skoda service manual that lists what’s included in each level. It’s more than 20MB so I can’t share it here but I will send you a link to download it from as a PM. As others have said, out of warranty I wouldn’t use main dealers. I find them very regimented in what they look at and I have had Indy garages pick up on things dealers haven’t. They’re also horrendously expensive. The best option is a VAG specialist Indy that uses parts from TPS (genuine parts).

This may help To dim the infotainment display for night driving in a 2025 Škoda Superb, use the quick-access control center or display settings: • Swipe down from the top of the infotainment screen to open the control center, where you can adjust the brightness slider directly. • Switch to Dark Mode by going into the display or vehicle settings and selecting the dark/night theme so the interface colors invert and reduce glare. • Adjust map settings separately if you are using Apple CarPlay or Android Auto, as navigation apps often manage day/night themes independently under their own internal app or phone settings.

Depending on where you live the prices are higher than I’d expect. You need to check what work and when it was carried out. If the Brake fluid is 3 years old or more then it’s needed. A “full” service by an Indy should include the rest including filters. Ask to see hte old filters to give you an idea of how long since the last change. Many dealers charge and don’t change (some indies as well of course). I always use the same Indy as repeat business (3 cars from the family) normally insures good service and reasonable prices. I’ve been using my indi for 9 years now since we last moved house. I can roll up and he will top up my oil if the lights comes on for free….. I haven’t needed to do that with my previous Passat or current Superb. His prices are at least 15% below the dealers

Tbh those prices are mental... Over £70 for a pollen filter that probably costs a tenner and takes 5 mins to fit... Likewise an air filter??? At 7 years old is use an independent and just ask for this elements the dealer has advised if you want them. Otherwise just ask for a full service which at an independent would probably include more anyway for less cost.

Yes it’s strange. I think it just needs to see a different number in the serial number field so it knows it’s a different battery. Interesting yours was set to all 1s as that’s what mine was when I changed it and it definitely wasn’t OEM battery. Perhaps it had never been coded properly at the last change 🤔

I bought Bosch A864S wipers ( aero twin) from Amazon for the front of my 22 plate karoq sportline 1.5 tsi after inputting my reg it said they fitted, but after trying to fit them, the driver side was a little tight, but fitted, but the passenger side will not fit at all, has anyone had this issue & found the correct blades without having to go to Skoda & getting my eyes taken out

Hi, New battery installed and recoded. Battery S/N is really bullsh*t. OEM coding was JCB (for a Varta one) and S/N did not match the BEM code stiker on the OEM battery, simply 11111111111. I then simply set VAO for my Varta and then 11111111112. Done.

OK, with those 14 way connectors unmated use meter set on dc volts to work out which half of the connector has pin11 at 12V when ignition is on. I'd imagine it will be the side with female contacts rather than pins. Then put that connector aside and on the other half measure resistance from pin 11 to battery negative. See if it looks like a dead short. Then unplug MAF, PAS 4-way connector and oil level sensor if found and see if that short is gone. If it has gone, reconnect those items one by one to see which is causing trouble.

Thanks, sorry for late reply! Yes does look like TRF since the fuel filter cap and the wheel nut caps were destroyed with something the attacked the plastics. AI suggests using a Magic Eraser to strip off the damaged layer and protect with Solution Finish - Black Trim Restorer.....perhaps when I am feeling brave!

I do have a multimeter yes

Do you have a multimeter?

Don’t think I do haven’t checked if not what’s the way forward because I am also getting a code from the obd for the maf but unplugging that connector has stopped the fuse does that mean it’s on the other side of the connector (female) or closer to the battery

List is what I have told you already: Power steering pump MAF Oil level/temperature sensor if fitted. There could also be wiring damage shorting the black/yellow wire to chassis (or even another wire possibly).