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in the ottocast manual there is a http address, you open it on your phone and it connectes to your phone allowing you to update the dongle

Are you running it now on E5 / Super Unleaded so 97 ron or 99 ron Minimum?

Good advice I will get it on a dyno to be sure. I only held off on the plugs as I have a friend with a mk2 and he said maybe get the iridium plugs and R8 coils if going to map to stage 1

The spark plugs need checked / inspected as a minimum & gap checked, and best replaced. Best get it on a Dyno before a remap, maybe already re-mapped.

I had the same issue, charge air cooler coolant leak. Found the slow leak into the cooler via USB phone endoscope. Inconclusive sniff test had me worried about the HG or block. I bought a OEM Valeo one from Autodoc Ireland and had my indie fit it. Total cost was £4-500 IIRC Dealers wanted £1200+ Annoyingly I now have ?EGR woes too. Bloody complicated emissions fudges.

i see what you said now actually - i guess maybe checking the oil that comes out the sump could be a point to check? if the endoscope doesn't give me the answer

isn't that what presents itself as white smoke out the back end?

Thank you I forgot to mention I did a full oil change,oil,air and cabin filter the day I got the car too.

coolant also can get mixed with oil, not entering combustion chamber. not visible oil in coolant, but coolant in oil.

change oil no matter what, high quality oil and filter, intake air filter..

We really do need to up our game or we will be in deep trouble.

hopefully its something as simple as that - but not being able to see without taking off loads of stuff and breaking that in the process, is a little frustrating. got my endoscope coming today, so hopefully i can see what is actually leaking.....its not showing signs of any headgasket issues - no loss of power, no fault codes and no white smoke - coolant reservoir isn't contaminated either. water pump is fine as i inspected that and that side of the engine is bone dry.

If the head unit was able to pull in the OTA DAB station icons as well as using that VW database, that would likely solve the problem and fill in the gaps. Unfortunately, they don’t use the OTA stuff at all it seems, only the VW icon database.

I think I am nearly as excited about this as you 😆 Enjoy your shake-down trip (and then start some new threads about all the quirks you find and need to come to love 😉) I too switched to my first Skoda Superb from Mercedes for all the same reasons as you, and I have never regretted it. True, there is not quite the same 'first class' engineering and customer service, but Skoda is close and on a cost-value comparison wins hands down.

Hi all, So I’ve just bought a mk2 Octavia VRs tfsi 2011 in VRs blue with black wheels mileage is 87,000. I picked it up for around £3000. I have always wanted this exact car there’s just something about the mk2 that I love. Anyways my question is what essential jobs do I need to do before starting to look at a stage 1 map? I have a friend of a friend who is a Skoda technician and he is going to do the tensioner,chain and water pump for me next week as there’s no proof in the cars partial service history that this has been done. I’m guessing these are essential but what else should I be looking at please my good people?

ok thank you, will do that

Hi all, I'm a long-time lurker and I'm hoping to find out how often the tensioner pulley for the V Belt should be replaced? I've ordered the parts for the timing chain Kit B replacement (the car has survived to 165 000 kms on its original, but it sounds like a tractor on startup)! Since ordering these, the water pump has developed a leak, and I thought I'd have the timing chain, v belt, and v belt tensioner all done as well. Also, any recommendations for a water pump? Likely I'll order genuine as it looks like the current one fitted is aftermarket and has only just made it to 5 years of service. Regarding the V belt tensioner, am I required to replace the entire assembly (part number 03C145299Q), or just the pulley (part number 03F145276)? If I replace the entire assembly, likely Ill order an SKF one. Thanks.

These are the screen shots on the MySkoda App and I have the Battery Care Mode enabled. I still cannot find the Optimize Battery for the 12v battery on the MySkoda App. Perhaps there are differences between the VW and Skoda Apps.

True. I don’t have infotainment online so I do it manually. And there are a few local DAB stations I listen to that don’t seem to put out their logo so I add my own.

Has this got a DQ200 gearbox?

But I shouldn’t have to. VW/Skoda should be updating that logo database more than once a decade, especially as it's one of the features my Infotainment Online subscription should be maintaining.

Think I am wrong re side of car that hose goes. Just found a post on here and on they say on RHD car its drivers side near/under footrest. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/524338-ac-drain-hose-location/ Exit seems to be tricky to see/find Alasdair

Not sure but think it comes down from centre of dash under front passenger carpet near tunnel and through firewall. Not sure exactly where it exits. Have read they are prone to gumming up at draining end. Check the underlay of passenger side front carpet for moisture. Alasdair

I can confirm now that leaking wastegate moves boost response up in the RPM range. I had some 4mm of total play in the actuator itself and the connection to wastegate lever and turbo didn't boost properly until 3000RPM. After actuator replacement, everything improved, though I didn't check the exact figures with the diagnostics.

So hopefully the issue have been fixed! The culprit was the wastegate actuator after all. Upon inspection I noticed quite significant play on the actuator rod. This was present even when the ECU tried to close the wastegate. So I ordered new part to try and replace it. MP4_20260914_080003VLOG.mp4 Getting the old part out was fight, too. I couldn't get the actuator off the wastegate lever. And this is why: I tried to move the lever before and there was no sign of play. So it's likely that the connection was sticking, but not enough to throw the P334B error. The bushing in the actuator, where the rod passes, was significantly worn, too, and the entire mechanism didn't move as freely as the new part. Overall, there was 3-4mm of play in the system (for reference, the entire range of the actuator is 10mm - reduced by 2mm insert which was fit during recall), so it's no wonder that the turbo couldn't reach boost in lower RPM. After the replacement, I did 15x ignition on/off procedure, which supposedly resets the endpoints. Drove around 200km afterwards with no issue. The car is much more lively now, although I didn't check with diagnostics, it's apparent that turbo reaches full pressure at ~2000RPM, but the throttle response improved all the way to idle. Fuel consumption at 6th gear/2000RPM and full throttle went from 9-10l/100km to 15+, so there's definitely more air going into the engine and hills, where it struggled before, are no issue now.