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one of the better holiday pics love welsh roads

This is a very interesting and brave thread. There is so much that is not understood about the wide range of mental issues. It has been a subject of Taboo for far to long. If someone has physical issues they can be seen and understood, it is not the same as mental issues. Some people think depression is trivial and not a genuine health condition. They're wrong – it is a real illness with real symptoms. Depression isn't a sign of weakness or something you can "snap out of" by "pulling yourself together" Someone close to me suffers from clinical depression, their mood can go from a high to a deep low in a matter of hours and last several days, sometimes weeks. To an outsider they have nothing to be depressed about, good job, nice home, nice car, no debts – the situation that most people aspire to. It’s the unseen chemical imbalance in the brain that triggers the events. Society and to a greater extent employers need to get a grasp with this. If you ring up work and say you won’t be in today because you have twisted your knee and can’t walk, that’s OK, but if you call to say you are depressed you are more likely to be treated as weak and not a reliable employee. It’s no wonder so many people suffer in silence.

Made it to Spa. 500 miles, 28.6mpg. In this photo there are 660 horses

I have finally found the source of the droning and moaning my Scout was producing under load at speeds of 40 mph upwards. First I thought it was wheel bearings as it changed when cornering, and under the steering test at speed, so replaced both front bearings and hubs. This quietened things slightly but not by much. I had " so called" experts drive it, they could either not hear it as only test drove below motorway speeds, or they just said needs the gearbox stripping, an open cheque in my opinion. Well I persevered and after many months I found an old post on a USA Jetta owners forum dating back years, where I found a guy had the same issue. Ok not a Skoda but still a VAG vehicle. His finding was the inner front CV joints , although showing no signs of play or wear. We all think of CV joints clacking away, least the outer ones, but the inner ones only go up and down mostly with the bumps in the road. Then I started to get the same noise on those fast undulations you often get on motorways as the suspension rose and fell at speed. So I thought could this be my my non metallic moaning and groaning noise that went away as soon as you backed off the torque, and never did it during normal town driving ??? You bet !!! two new complete driveshafts and everything is quiet again under all loadings including towing. I cannot believe the difference, and, as this info came via a Jetta forum one has to assume this wear to inner CV joints may well apply to other VAG vehicles as well . Hope somebody out there finds this of use, it certainly has ended months of frustration believing I was the only person hearing it, and my 4x4 transmission system is not now facing expensive repairs. One final point is driveshafts seem to need replacing between 90,000 & 120,000 even if not showing obvious CV wear, mine has 126,000 on the clock so guess it was due. It's great and I have now got my very versatile 4x4 back as she should be :)

As you can see BMW have started working with Skoda to create this beauty

Either way u need a skoda dealer to confirm what is wrong with the car. They will not go by another garages diagnosis.

+1 for this and they are cheap, the ones I bought off eBay were £30 for the 2x heavy duty drop links and 2x heavy duty console bushes posted.

Thanks to Mike@ Briskoda parts I’ve had two new alloys, new a pillar trim on drivers side, 4 new centre caps new set of plastic bolt covers in black, new VRS 230 door sill trim. Had the tyres swapped to the new wheels @wheelsuk - Coventry near to Listers Skoda where I picked up the delivery. Wheels on, a pillar panel in. Any advice on removal of old door sill trim cover??? Ryan.

Excellent, glad it was simple enough to track down as wiring can be a pain For 5 brake lights and dual fogs, I'd probably try: Leuchte26NSL LA72-Lichtfunktion A 26 - Change from "Nebelschlusslicht wenn kein Anhaenger gesteckt und Rechtsverkehr" to "Nebelschlusslicht wenn kein Anhaenger gesteckt" Leuchte27NSL RC6-Lichtfunktion A 27 - Change from "Nebelschlusslicht wenn kein Anhaenger gesteckt und Linksverkehr" to "Nebelschlusslicht wenn kein Anhaenger gesteckt" Leuchte26NSL LA72-Dimmwert AB 26 - Change from "0" to "100" Leuchte26NSL LA72-Lichtfunktion B 26 - Change from "Nebelschlusslicht wenn kein Anhaenger gesteckt und Linksverkehr" to "Brake light" Leuchte27NSL RC6-Lichtfunktion B 27 - Change from "not active" to "Brake light" That's based on the information from these posts and an adpmap from an another car with the same BCM: - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/299424-octavia-iii-vcds-adaptations-tried-and-tested/#comment-3567267 - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/416194-brake-tail-light-brightness/?do=findComment&comment=4748396

Yes I know but just quoting what it said on the website.

Meyle HD drop links are good.

Just had 2nd service at 35,000 miles at Mitchells, including DSG and Haldex oil changes. Water pump and steering wheel scroll wheel replaced under warranty with zero hassle, sunroof lubricated, and they even sorted the steering wheel being slightly off centre without me mentioning it! Courtesy car arranged and great communication throughout. Brilliant service from Alex, Charlotte and Karl - thanks guys, I appreciate it.

Some years ago I was in a dull and boring job. An opportunity came up for something more interesting and dynamic. It was a nightmare. The place was in such a state I didn't know whether it was Wednesday or Easter, it was so manic. At the end of the first week I stood outside at about 8pm and thought to myself "what have I done?" Weeks past and I was able to put my mark on the place - twenty five years later I am still there. Just give yourself some time to adapt, step back and look at the bigger picture.

Well, that's been my experience too. If you tell Germans (and Austrians) that you're trying to learn to speak better German they will be actively supportive.

For anybody who is mechanically sympathetic like myself do not like: 1/Putting a load on an engine that has just started to build up oil pressure 2/Having a stinking hot turbo with no coolant going through it I appreciate in the real world it probably makes little difference to the longevity of an engine, but its just my preference. As mentioned above, it was only invented to play the emissions game on the EU drive cycle (which is nothing like real life driving) I find in traffic where cars are edging forward all the time you end up with the engine doing lots of starting and stopping with next to no time actually 'off' to get any sort of reduction in emissions or fuel. I do sometimes use it when I know i'm going to be stopped for a minute or 2 but that's about it.

Correct. Paderborn. We have family here and just up the road in Bielefeld. It's been a challenge but we're enjoying it. We were getting sick of the lack of respect and responsibility in the UK. The streets are clean here and everyone looks after their house/garden/street etc. It's certainly tested my German skills but I'm getting there. Luckily I work with a load of Germans so speak German most of the day which helps.

'Main dealer service history' is a comment that I place in the same bracket as 'one lady doctor owner' when it comes to looking at the description/history of a car; it's meaningless and harks from the days of Arthur Daily used car sales. The majority of franchised dealers these days employ technicians; people who can read a fault code and then replace the part. Very few 'mechanics' will be available. I'm sure there's a few dealerships with some experienced master techs with the ability to strip components, service and re-assemble but those will be few and far between. Some people in service departments also know f*** all about the cars they are employed to work on, their primary concern is up-selling air con/winter health checks etc. IME the same can't be said of a really good independent specialist. They've likely been jaded with working for the VAG empire for several years and set up on their own, often taking the good staff with them and poaching others in the area. Fundamentally, I'd rather see a service stamp and regular servicing done by a well regarded indy specialist than a dealer stamp. You imagine how many owners go to the dealer for a service and then they get the usual astronomical quote for parts which need replacing and having just paid £279 for a major service the parts never get replaced and the owner eventually gets rid before a potential big bill. When you take a car to a indy specialist the prices are significantly cheaper as are the OEM parts so owners are likely to stump up the cash to have the car properly maintained and faults fixed as they occur. For example, I queried a passenger airbag fault on a MK4 Golf GTI with a main dealer, it's a common issue on these cars and *usually* the yellow connector block under the chair, the soldering goes brittle and the wires disconnect. Dealer said if it's the block it's around £300 + VAT as the chair needs to be removed and a new harness/connector needs fitting as well as adding a few more £££'s for the sake of it because an airbag was involved. Indy specialist...£60. One hours work to remove the old solder on the block and re-solder the wires back on. Sorted. The one thing the EU/EC got right was stopping dealers having the monopoly on servicing cars, in order for owners to maintain their warranty, and the whole argument about dealers/manufacturers giving preferential rates and reviewing out-of-warranty claims favourably when you have a dealer service history is a load of crap. Dealers are in it for the money, nothing else and VAG will be cutting back as much as possible to recoup the costs of dieselgate. For me, independent specialist servicing and maintenance trumps dealer servicing every time.

One year old this weekend. Just over 15000 miles, purring like a cat and going better than ever. Awesome car! Pround owner.

Hi, new to the group. Was looking for any information people may have on a Octavia vrs . 2.0tfsi BF11 SOH. I NOTICED a man called Bryan Walker used to own this vehicle but I am unable to get a reply from him. any info would be greatly appreciated. and thanks.

Just a quick heads up for a rear light I've just bought: https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Blackburn-Mars-2-LED-Click-Rear-Flasher-Light_39118.htm 73% discount - cheap as chips. Mine arrived today and I'm well pleased. Gaz

Fabia Msport ehhhh... Sweet. That badge must seriously add like 35bhp...

DSG fuzz sounds strange. I ordered a 272 S3 on july, and dealer was 100% sure it is 7 speed DSG. The dealer had digital dash etc. 2019 extras strictly in his computer, official Skoda configurator still had 2018 stuff. Car is now in production so I am eager to soon find out what's what. I consider myself lucky because soon after ordering the 272 magically disappeared from the catalog and hasn't come back yet...

>>> And the Meyle HD (Heavy duty) Range, have a four year warranty so keep that receipt!

Not exactly, both caps are identical in size (length), but there is more thread on the second one, that's why you need to turn a few times more until it is properly closed

Including the purchase price and assuming an annual budget of £500 for servicing & repairs my VRS has cost me £71 a month over 7 years. Even if the annual servicing/repair spend was £1000 it would still only work out at £113/month (purchase price was ~£2.5k). I could afford to lease something brand new or replace it with a newer/faster/shinier/more expensive used car but it just doesn't make financial sense at the moment. That and I'm aiming to get it to 200k miles! Mine has also been on lots of adventures: Scotland twice. Lake district twice. Peak district. Cotswolds. Brecon Beacons. Snowdonia. Le Mans two or three times, loaded up with a couple of passengers and camping gear Probably nearly every county in England & Wales Big for the mk1!

Lots of factors here apply. The insurance groups range from 12 to 23 for different variants of the Kodiaq. Interestingly the sport line variant is the top at 23. Edition tops out 22 I believe. Mine is group 22. I have 10 years plus no claims. Clean license. Age 46, GU51 postcode parked on the driveway. 10000 miles a year. Protected no claims with both my wife and myself on the policy. 300 quid. I wish the insurance industry would stop the price loading on the 2nd year. I always switch. The only insurer who has ever remained costant for two years was M&S.

YOU could always copy the owner of the 520bhp Superb and put a 2.0Tdi badge on the boot instead!

The recommendation of 17” wheels is to allow clearance for chains to be fitted. If you don’t require to fit chains 18” would be fine.

This is true for the Sportline. Columbus is standard on Sportline Plus. - see page 8 of the spec pdf. (my original reply was incorrect ) Sounds like you got a free upgrade

If you ordered it before the split to "normal" and "Plus" they may have given you the benefit of things which were standard when there was only 1 type of SPortline available, but have been removed (or downgraded) once they introduced the split

Remind them about their statement on the Home Page and their statement at the bottom of the Used Cars tab on their website.

One of the prerequisites for the operation of the stop phase was that the engine is up to operating temperature... I can confirm that on my previous 2016 Octavia (TDI 150PS non-SCR) and current (2018) Kodiaq, that this is now not the case. As with everything, technology progresses I guess. I was on the understanding that Skoda always recommended setting off from a cold start straight away, rather than letting the car idle (i.e. when defrosting etc.), in an effort to minimise engine wear. This is down to the fact that driving the car got the engine up to temperature quicker than if it was stationary / ticking over. I think it is widely acknowledged that the greatest amount of engine wear occurs during the early stages of a cold start. It might be considered that having the stop start operate prior to the engine reaching operating temperature could exacerbate engine wear by delaying the engine warm up process. Of course there are other elements affecting the stop start. If it is cold enough for the additional engine wear then it is also likely the driver will be calling for heat via the Climatronic system, which would prevent the stop start from activating until the engine is able to produce enough heat to satisfy demand, thus minimises engine wear. It's all pretty complicated, and the obvious preference would be to simply let the car do its thing. However, what the recent dieselgate scandal (EA189 Emissions Fix) has taught me is that Skoda (VAG) put meeting emissions targets well ahead of engine or component longevity (and some might argue rightly so), and therefore potentially reliability. I like the fact that the stop start feature is switchable, allowing me to determine when it operates based on my preference for preserving the mechanical elements of my car versus my consideration for the environment and the health of myself and those around my car.

"EEz pedigree Siberian hamster!"

Well I’ve decided now that I’m not going for a dealer service again in future. After checking online with skoda and getting a fixed price of £159 then being asked to pay £179 after the inspection service, I’ll go to an independent in future.

Bulbs don't connect to the CAN-bus. So called 'CAN friendly' ones just have resistors to try and fool the bulb monitoring circuitry. In cheap or poorly designed versions, the resistor can overheat and damage the bulb, bulb holder and even the light cluster. It's better to buy quality bulbs without the resistor and have the car coded to accept them. A dealer probably won't know how to remove the bulb warning. An auto electrician might but are more likely to fix load resistors. Licence plate bulbs can normally be done with VCDS, DRL will need VCP or ODIS-e. You're not particularly far away so if you want me to take a look, just drop me a PM.

Wish I could keep my car that clean, good work!

Hi Paul, It may not seem like it, but you have just made progress in getting the case taken out of the call handlers hands and into the Executive Office. Call handlers mantra, or at least as it seemed to me, was to hear the customer out, give out the correct soundbites and platitudes, but when push comes to shove they're representing their employers interests not yours. In your case however, without involvement from Executive office, you have been offered 20% towards the cost. My experience tells me that was an opening gambit. Hang in there. The trick is to be assertive, sticking to the facts as presented, rather than aggressive. As for your own bulleted points of concern, the first is a non starter given that the case number generated by Skoda UK themselves was within the warranty period and no satisfactory solution had been found by the time that warranty expired, you as a responsible owner did all that could be reasonably expected of you in raising the concern and going through their established processes. The time it takes them to resolve the matter satisfactorily is out of your hands, you raised it within the warranty period, those are the facts. The third one about buying from a non franchised dealer doesn't stand scrutiny either. Our car was bought from Arnold Clark Ford, Linwood. Our engine was replaced under warranty by Skoda UK at no cost to ourselves after a failed oil consumption test in September 2014. All costs were met by Skoda UK, including the cost of an automatic courtesy car while ours was in the garage. The important point isn't where the car was purchased, the important fact is that the car came with Skoda UK approved extended warranty on it, and the warranty was still valid after transfer of ownership, As for the second point, yes they could try that argument. But again, the simple fact of the matter is that SUK are more than aware that there have been similar complaints about this very issue since the car was introduced back in 2010. They know that hundreds, if not thousands of these cars have had some kind of remedial work carried out on them in an attempt to address this issue, ranging from oil breather modification, new jets, or indeed replacement engines. SUK themselves know that in a wider attempt to address the problem across the Volkswagen Audi Group the CAVE variant of the 132/136 kw 1.4tsi engine was replaced from November 2012 onwards with the CTHE variant. They know, and we know they know, that they did this because of one or all of the following; that the design, manufacture or components used were not of the required standard to ensure a reasonable lifespan for the vehicles in question. Offski has also made some excellent points about others in the process not having acted quickly enough to provide a suitable solution and perhaps worsening the situation, none of that is your fault. As it happens, your battle is not with the dealer, its with Skoda UK. All the dealer does is sell and maintain the product, Skoda and VAG are ultimately responsible for the quality of the car and all its key components that they supply to the dealer network. Let them know you intend hanging in there until they satisfactorily resolve this. You know other owners have had the engine replacement under warranty at no cost to themselves.

There seems to be a bit of white debris. Could someone have cut the end cap off in attempt to gain access to the car? I'd suggest making a replica "end cap" from a scrap of rubber (make a paper template from the other side) and fixing it with either black silicone or thick superglue as a cheaper option..

Looking up part numbers, 2012 Roomster and Fabia both seem to share the same item 1: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/roomster/ro/2012-699/8/823-823010/ https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2012-697/8/823-823010/ What year is your car? If you just edit the year part of those web addresses, it should change to the relevant pages.

For some people is really is just down to their DNA. Some have bad chemistry in their brains and depression is the symptom of that. Maybe it would be more publically acceptable if anti-depressants were talked of in those terms. It's not an anti-depressant it's a dopamine supplement.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01JU11EZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used one of these, but it's on an Octavia not a Yeti. Yes, mine is the 1.6. Oh, and I looked up the dealer I got the car from ... gone out of business ..

2 years happy with my L&K DSG 190 4x4 :-)

Picked up today...... Lots to do, tinted windows, black grill surround, front spoiler, rear defuses, de-badge and add black badges

If DAB is not a deal breaker but you would like to add it for a reasonable price then this is worth a look.... https://www.pure.com/uk/car-audio/products/highway-400 Very easy to install, i know this from experience having installed one in my Yeti yesterday. The price quoted on the Pure website is the maximum you would pay for it, i got mine of a well known auction site for £123.....

You will You will always be welcome in the Yeti section

I think the little black dot on the spec says alot 'Standard' NOT 'Optional', or would they argue these were all no cost options and supply you a Karoq without KESSY, rear view camera, front and rear parking sensors etc. and say this is OK as they are no cost options and therefore you haven't paid for them ??

So... steering wheel arrived today. Had no pacience so couple of hours later when to a service as I didn’t want to do it myself and fitted it. 10 minutes job. Everything worked. MFSW buttons, heating, and of course the DSG PADDLES. No coding required what so ever. For anyone else’s who wants to do it, just need to make sure you have all correct parts. Airbag for heating steering wheel as it’s a bit different, and MFSW buttons with heating and DSG paddles connectors. If you don’t want heating on your steering wheel, you don’t need the special airbag, but you need the buttons with the DSG paddles connector. Normal ones do not have it.

@R2-82 - This is an explanation, not a recommendation to buy a part from $source. There is such a thing as "new old stock" which simply means that it's a new part that's been sat in someone's stock room since before the part was obsoleted. I would expect such a part to be in OEM packaging (trickier to check that with stuff from Poland).

For reference the part no for the std rear springs is 1K0511115CS Mark