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Picked up my iV SEL yesterday, so far so good and managed to get a charge in as well. Really impressed how seamless the switch from electric to engine is

Total waste of money and resources changing oil on a two week old car. The car will tell you when oil needs changed depending on what service regime it is set to could be 1 year or 2 years. But most dealers set to 1 year service intervals with the 2 year service deal. The days of changing oil after the running in period has long gone, modern materials and oil technology mean this simply isn’t required anymore.

Service and repair probably makes more money than original sale of vehicle; so design that discourages DIY is not necessarily unclever from Skoda/VW's standpoint.

Here is a quick guide on how to remove and install the rear make and model badges / Emblems. What you need Adhesive Remover (Autoglym Tar Remover , WD40 etc) Trim removal tool or dental floss Microfiber Cloth Tape (Electrical or Masking tape) New badges / Emblems (Rapid in Black Magic and Skoda in Black Magic) or lesser quality but cheaper (Ebay Acrylic Skoda Emblem and eBay Acrylic Black Rapid) Step one Make sure the working area is clean as possible. No need to wash the car completely down, but give the area a quick wash with soapy water and rinse with clean water. Ensure the working area is completely dry before going any further and out of the elements / weather. Step two Using the masking tape or electrical tape, mark the area around the badge as close as possible. This will help when installing the new badges. If you're just removing the badges completely then there is no need to carry out this step. Step three There are a couple of ways this step can be done so pick which one you prefer. First, using dental floss (this is a favorite) in a sawing motion from top to bottom. Draw the floss through the adhesive backing until each individual letter becomes lose. This method will prevent any undue damage to the paintwork but can be time consuming. Second method is what i used. Using plastic trim removal tools, use the most appropriate tool and push it in behind the lettering. Ensuring to not use to much force, lever the letters away from the body of the vehicle. You may need to adjust the position of the tool around the same letter to lever sections off at a time. This is quicker but could cause damage to the paintwork if you're not careful. The final way is risky but is lots quicker and less messy if you do it right. Using a heat gun or hair drier, apply heat to an individual letter at a time to reduce the effectiveness of the adhesive. As it heats up the letter will become lose and can simply be pulled away from the body. Be careful as applying to much heat in one area could cause the paint to burn or burn the adhesive onto the paint leaving unsightly marks. If you use a hair drier the risks of burning the paint is much lower but will take a lot longer for the lettering to become lose and can still leave a lot of residue behind. Step Four You need to remove the left over adhesive. To do this, use the adhesive remove and apply small quantities either to a microfiber cloth if you have a bottle of the stuff or spray directly onto the adhesive remains if it comes in a spray bottle. Allow a few minutes for the adhesive remover to do its work and then using a microfiber cloth to rub the remaining adhesive away. You may need to use a plastic spatula to help remove some of the more stubborn material or just your nails if you're careful. The area behind the emblems will have residual road grime, this is nothing to worry about and can be removed, so be sure to give the area a good clean before moving on. Step Five If you're removing the badges / emblems completely then you can now remove the tape and you're done! If you're adding alternative badges / emblems then you need to give the area a clean down with some clean water to that no adhesive remover remains. This will give a good surface for the new adhesive to adhere too. Peel the backing paper off from the new emblems. DO NOT REMOVE THE CLEAR FRONT! This is what holds the letters equally apart and remains on until later. You'll then need to line up the new badge within the edges of the tape that you put on earlier. Be careful to hold the badge / emblem away from the body as it is extremely sticky and will grab immediately. (I can assure you that although the car is dirty, the working area was clean in this picture) Once lined up press the badge onto the body, ensuring to press all parts of the letters and not just the center area to ensure the adhesive has grab entirely. With this done you can now remove the clear front and all the tape. I would advise not washing for at least 24hrs to give the adhesive enough to fix itself. Now repeat on the alternative side.

love mine since 2018... Shes got it all....only option not on her is canton steroe upgrade...and i dont miss that a bit as standard is very good...She basically has everything.. Electric sunroof..dsg..heated seats..collision warning ..ACC DCC Columbus elec.seats and on a motorway does easily over 40mpg at 120km/h..and.stick onncruise control and she basically drives u to ur destination...Hard to Beat also a boot that u could almost sleep in! :)..vroom vroom..thank god lockdown is over as far as driving more than ur own county limit.. now its the entire country whoop whoop:)

Sure, although I think that reason is the minority. Usually if you NEED it for work, you get the allowance or the car supplied. Many people are getting a car on finance because the one they want costs far more than the one they need, but they don't have the cash. You can buy a reliable car that more than capable of munching up the miles with no issues at all for under £10k. Buying a vRS Octavia isn't a need for transport, it's a want for a shiny thing. If you just need transport you guy and buy a 1.6 astra or a kia or whatever for much less money. The reality is we live in a world where people want things now, don't want to wait and are willing to both pay that extra in interest and also take the risk of the commitment of the outgoings. I've known a number of people who have got cars on finance and then are screwed when they want to move house or have kids or whatever as their outgoings are such that it's too restrictive. It's all personal choice and what you feel comfortable with.

I think that is a poor comparison and there is some unintentional scaremongering going on. The Kia's 1.6 petrol engine is naturally aspirated, whereas the Kodiaq's 1.5 petrol engine is turbocharged. Lots of the comments about "diesel is much better for towing" should really say "engines that produce lots of torque from low revs are better for towing". Which is basically a modern diesel or petrol turbocharged engine. Bear in mind that the Kodiaq's 1.5 petrol produces a healthy maximum torque of 250Nm very early at 1500rpm. Because the Kia has no turbo, it has to be revving nearly 3 times higher (4850RPM) to produce much less torque (161Nm). The equivalent diesel Kodiaq admittedly produces 35% more torque than the 1.5 petrol, but it's 16% further up the rev range. So whilst the diesel might be "better", it's no longer dramatically better. Also worth bearing in mind that a regular poster on the forum - Silver - tows quite a large caravan with the older 1.4 petrol Kodiaq and reports no issues. I would comment though that whilst the forward gearing on our DSG gearbox Kodiaq seems fine, the reverse gear is ludicrously tall. Our driveway is quite steep and I've given up trying to reverse up it. Our 190BHP diesel Kodiaq has vast amounts of low down diesel torque, yet it still butchers the clutch trying to reverse up the drive. So I'd personally avoid having to reverse a trailer or caravan up a hill with a DSG equipped Kodiaq.

remap day

@wyx087 Yes, you just potter around in an empty car except for yourself at low power as though in a 80ps petrol and if you floor the accelerator you have 136ps / 260 Nm. Same in Normal. But on light throttle it is like a lower powered petrol. In Sport response is sharper at all speeds and just blipping the throttle. Steering sharper as well. Carry passengers and weight in the boot and 80ps / ECO feels like a 60ps N/A Fabia loaded because it is a heavy car. The Heavier Unladen Peugeot e-2008./ DS 3 E-Tense & likely the Mokka Electric even more so. These reviewers really need to put people or weight in these cars and try them. Fold the seats down and load 400kg in the car maybe. ** On back roads, hills and glens and driving like a warm hatch, in Sport, point and squirt and stick in B, or between Drive & back to B and you can get as good a range as in ECO. Much like driving a DSG quickly. Throttle to get a move on and gears to slow and no touching the brake pedal.** There is one reviewer on youtube that seems to be taking the huff at me questioning how he is reviewing EV cars and showing the dash with the car in ECO but he says he was not using it in ECO. They do need to check the cars weight, check the tyres, and comment on A/C on or not, heated seats / steering wheel etc as all they seem to do is go on about Motorways and talking in general terms. It is like when they pick up a ICE vehicle from a Manufacturer. They should run the tank empty, fill with a fuel like 95 unleaded or standard diesel, so that they know the car never came with Super Unleaded or Premium Diesel and higher pressure inflated tyres.

**Updated March 2025** The latest firmware version is: 0480 for SOP4.x hardware. 0363 for SOP3.x hardware. 0253 for SOP2.x hardware. **UPDATED May 2021** **Updated Feb 2024** Minimum size of SD card is now 32G **Please note everything on here - is generally warranty effecting - break it and you'll need to pay to get it fixed** Dear all, I thought I would pen down my experience in terms of upgrading my firmware on my 2019 Octavia Scout. I have cleared me writing this piece with the Briskoda Moderators. I have always berated Skoda for the fact that there are firmware updates available to fix various silly niggles on the Entertainment system. I have a Amunsden system (Bolero with Sav Nat). You have to play silly games with your dealer, just so they can look to see if any of your MIB system faults are displayed as a known issues....which is the measure that they use. The point is that unless your car system is seriously glitchy, dealers won't generally touch the MIB system. I am an IT guy, and this kind of thinking (especially with the more modern connected systems) depresses me....the world is told to patch,patch,patch - but VW group choose not to do so unless absolutely necessary. I now understand why....because the MIB2.5 system upgrade that I managed to get hold of for my Scout - took over an hour to upgrade. Time is money in dealers and this is why when dealers do a firmware update, then charge it as a warranty claim. On my system, there were many many patches for 0475. The version of firmware provided by a member on this forum was for 0478. (May21) There are also different version of firmware available. This is an important thing to note: There are generally (for Bolaro and Amunsden) - different software strands: They are: SOP2.x, SOP3.x and SOP4.x - when you look at a firmware version, you will be presented with a version such as 0472 - this says that it is a SOP Version 4.x . You can only update SOP4.x strands with another SOP4.x strand. Therefore, if you have 0472, you can upgrade to 0478. If you have a SOP3.x - e.g. 0359, then you cannot safely upgrade to SOP4.x 0478 firmware. There are people on here who say they can do it, but this is a risky area and you risk bricking your hardware. Now some legal stuff - because Briskoda cannot officially endorse anything that you do to your car (its a forum for Skoda enthusiasts, not dubiously obtained software) and the fact that the forum doesn't want to be sued by VW Group for posting non-authorised/obtained software, all the dealings for firmware has to done behind the scenes. Its sad that way. The firmware files are generally quite large (my copy was about 3GB). So once you have found the appropriate thread for your MIB system (it could be a Bolero, Amunsden or Columbus system), whether it is a MIB, MIB2 or MIB2.5 system, and you have found the appropriate member who has access to the firmware, you will be asked to take a photo screenshot of the system information. You can find that in System Information in the MIB system under Menu and Settings. This information shows the VW part number and the current firmware level. Do not confuse this with the maps/nav version information. If you are brave enough to do the firmware update, my other caveat is that you need to know your way around a PC. I'm a linux guy (which helps), but a good technical expertise level is useful. You will need: The link to the downloaded software An 32GB SD Card - DOS partition and formatted in FAT32 (Linux land it is called vfat) Download the firmware image - it will have a filename similar to: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0478T.7z . Briefly, that equates to: MST2 = MIB2 or 2.5, EU_SK_ZR are all countries (its a Europe and Russia image) and P0478 is the firmware version. The file is given in this case in a 7zip format (highly compressed). I know there are Windows decompression tools available, but I use 7z command line - in this case "7z x MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0478T.7z". Make you do this in a new directory (otherwise it write files all over the place in your current directory). You should also file scan the files to make sure there are no virus's. After a while, you end up with a directory full of files. You can safely move the .7z master file elsewhere. There will be a new directory created with the same name as the firmware. Go into this directory and copy the content onto your SD Card. This process will take about 30 minutes all told. Eject the SD and go to your car..... Now connect up the battery charger to your battery and start the charging process. Remember, if the MIB system detects voltage levels below 12V (I think it is 11.8V), it will not allow you to upgrade (or its a bad idea anyhow). Think of it doing an Android upgrade with low battery voltage - not advised. Get into the passenger seat, and go into the glove compartment. Remove your current SD cards in SD1 (and SD2 if you have that slot). Switch on the MIB system and insert your SD card with the firmware on it - into SD1. It must be SD1 slot only. With the MIB system on, press and HOLD the Menu button until you get some hidden menus appear. Top option is labelled firmware/updates. Select it (either press screen or use the right hand knob and press your selection). Select Upgrade as the option you need. The system will go away and read the SD Card and see if there is a firmware update available. If all is working well, the system will reboot and put itself into Emergency Update mode (Scary Screen). You will now right here find if your files are corrupted or not. First attempt at my upgrade....it didn't go well, because I use 7z e as opposed to 7z x flag to extract the files. Once that snafu had been fixed (and I stopped panicking) , and I had the files in the right order in the right directories, all started working. I had over 100 updates - these were mainly CPU related and firmware for the bluetooth modules etc. They take time to process....be patient. After about 60 minutes, the upgrades finishes and the radio reboots - once to ask you whether you want to downgrade your system to the previous firmware level (press cancel here). The system then completes and switches itself off. Leave it for about 60 seconds. After 60 seconds, switch it back on...(in my case, the Scout Logo appears) and the system boot up. All seemed to work well, but I had some minor niggles to content with. 1) The GPS module went AWOL for about 10 minutes, then came back to life. 2) I could not get Skoda Connect to work. Skoda Connect was an interesting one - and I fixed it an interesting manner. I ended up doing a car factory reset. Skoda Connect still didn't work. A quick check with the Skoda Connect app showed I was logged out, so re-registered the car with my login. The app showed all was well and re-registered, but still no Skoda Connect. I left it to do its thing....(got bored). Today - I had another look at the problem....I realised that because I re-registered the car, that all the personalisation options had gone back to factory reset. I had to go into Menu-> Personalisation and re-associate the car with my profile....Skoda Connect then started working correctly. I hope this is helpful for somebody to understand the process.

We seem to have been waiting ages, and today was the day that the new Zoe was collected - our first BEV ownership. We ordered on 11 Feb and with CV 19 causing all sorts of worldwide difficulties, picking up the car today isn’t that bad really. The dealer called us in yesterday to complete the paperwork which meant that handover today was completed in around 15 minutes. Initial impressions are that the build quality is as good (bad) as expected, but the overall enjoyment of driving and features etc are better than expected. I put together a video of first impressions if anyone wants to take a look

new figures 228bhp 431.1nm (317.8 ft lbs)

I've seen the boiling water method done before and you're right its a lot easy. I opted not to use that method as it would have loosened and removed the tape which I was using to mark the area for the new badges, ideal if you're just removing them though.

I've tried hairdryers but it's easier just pouring hot (not boiling) water over the badge at stage 3. Hot water, then dental floss, worked great and almost all of the glue comes off too. Just a quick rub of WD40 and its completely gone.

So long as the electrics that you have fitted along with your towbar are OEM specification and then coded into the ECU, you will find that the car recognises that you have trailer attached and the ESC will behave accordingly.

Apologies to Eileen I believed she was the OP that I was referring to when stating 'same as yours'

Hi Eileen, I am a caravanner with about 15 years experience, we had a new bailey Indiana 2008 and traded our lovely Skoda Octavia 1.9pd 130 hp for a Volvo xc 70 manual estate as the towing figures for weight match were not too good. Still have the Volvo, 12 years of ownership and don't want to think what will replace it, masses of torque and will cruise all day in 6th at 60 mph. We down sized our van 5 years ago for an Adria 4 four which is almost the weight of our old bailey. I used a web site call : outfit matching car and caravan, just put your outfit details in ( not sure if its dsg or manual) and its a moderate match for experienced towers , didn't see the percentages it might be a help. Never towed with a petrol but as others have said you cant beat a heavy tow car with a big torquey engine but we are now made to feel like destroyers of the planet. Martin

You have hopefully got it sorted, sometimes its not easy to work out what may be the issue at least you didn't remove the head.

Back from the tuner. He did say the same to go with a oem diverter valve. I'm a little disappointed in the figures but he says the turbo was maxing out. Its a fully rebuilt k03S so maybe its the actuator thats at fault? I think i am just going to enjoy the car for now and look at getting a K04 Turbo 2nd hand get it refurbed, get a K04 Forge Actuator, 3" MAF and Oversized TIP to suit. Anyhow here is the results but again its all new to me but was expecting more then 220hp.

This is 2020 & we are talking modern engines / vehicles. Cooling fans and pumps come on with the ignition off and the engine not idling if necessary.

Good idea, best to keep the warranty.

I expect the upgraded front grill is more for Southern European countries where it gets very hot and they have big mountains to climb like the Alps. This would see the engine working quite hard at slow speed. The slow speed would reduce the airflow going through the radiator. Someone, somewhere has probably had this problem, so Skoda being cautious are simply offering it to everyone including people who would never experience an engine overheating problem. Unless you are driving in over 30 degree temperatures up a mountain, you may not need this. It's easy enough to keep an eye on your temperature gauge, and stop as soon as the engine temperature (water coolant temperature) goes into the red. Wait 5 minutes with your engine idling for the engine to cool down a bit, (the radiator fan should come on) and then continue your journey.

1. You can do it every 12, this is my program. Edge Titanium 0w-20 2. Never had any issue 3. This is new engine EA888 Gen 3 4. Never heard 5. Leather electric seats, VAQ, DCC 6. Canton is better option, but default is also okay, I have never seen anything but these 2 Good luck.

@Insearchofaskoda OK if you do not get it, someone will explain, 'Presumption' is an issue, you can cancel in 14 days and be better off not worse.

It will be gearing, a tall first gear is a nightmare for laden hill starts, also all the modern VAG vehicles will not rev above 2500 RPM until the vehicle is in motion, there is a massive torque limitation going on to prevent the over-revving and even without a trailer or caravan I can feel that there will be a big problem when I do tow one. Actually the above might be 3000 rpm, I'm not going to start the engine to find out, also I dont know if it applies to petrol engines.

Quite a few have stopped and never started again🤣 Skoda's hidden feature.

I had the same dilemma with the money aspect but I found that the other cars in the price pool where a couple years older and there wasn't as much space in it as in the vrs.

Mine is the pFL 230, that I specifically went for as it's got the diff (amongst other things). Bascially when they did the 220, the 230 was made available with extras such as the diff, full leather etc. When they did the facelift, the 230 became the entry one (no diff) and the 245 had it. Then they dropped the 230. For me, having it was more about being able to not get caught out on roundabouts when it's wet and the torque suddenly causes a random understeer. I've driven a FWD with a mechanical LSD for many years and found it very useful so didn't want to go backwards. You can have a quaife diff fitted to any of them for about £1500 mind. Or ideally, just pay cash. Personally I'm a big believer in just spending money I have and no more. Ultimately, you pay less. I'd always rather go without and save, then spend the money and not have a future commitment as you never know what's round the corner. You can then start saving again. Otherwise you're basically paying interest for ever. But I'm probably not in the majority with my philosphy!

Thanks! I ordered a similar kit from Amazon.de, which should arrive on Saturday. Meanwhile, my new steering wheel has already arrived, I ordered it on Monday, so delivery took only about three days from the Czech Republic to Belgium.

A word of caution. This doesn't apply to your car but it's decent comparison. I had a Kia Sportage with a 1.6 petrol engine which had 136bhp from memory, so not much less than yours. I also had a 2 berth Bailey caravan with an MRO of less than a tonne. One day on the way to a site, I was forced to take alternative route, which in one place had quite a steep hill. I was forced to stop on the way up the hill (sods law!!) and getting going again was nigh on impossible. There was much clutch burning and smoke involved and eventually I managed to inch away, but the clutch will have suffered greatly. No idea how a DSG would cope in the same circumstances. I'm sure you'll be fine if all journeys run smoothly, but it's the unexpected that will catch you out. Figures on a piece of paper don't tell the whole story. I changed the Kia shortly after that for a 170bhp diesel Superb estate. What a difference ! With regard to towbar fitting, I had mine fitted by a local, well respected company and whilst I never actually got around to towing with it (sold the van), I did have it hooked up to check everything worked okay. It did 😁. Cost was approx. £480 for fixed swan neck tow bar.

The change in power with mode setting. Can you set to 80 PS eco mode and still access 136 PS via kickdown? In Leaf, set eco mode reserves the last 2 power to kickdown. I drive in this mode because I like the throttle control for lower power, but use kickdown quite a lot.

Good luck with the sale, but more importantly, good luck with your health and wellbeing 👍 I shall miss your posts.

Four years!

I'm assuming if you haven't already got the tow-bar fitted, you will have this fitted by Skoda, for the sake of any arguements regarding your 2019 car's warranty, should any issues arise.

The only difference that I can see for the very similar car Re towing / not for towing, is the extra two seats in the 4WD version............ I'm assuming it must be to do with expected weight inside the vehicle or a different floor-pan due to the extra seating...??? Obviously power and torque values are going to have an effect on the car and how it pulls, but there is no reason you should have any issues if your vehicle is sound and you drive within it's limitations...............

Interestingly in the Towcar of the Year Awards 2019 The Skoda Octavia won its class up to 1400kg with the 1.5Tsi engine. That said the Kodiak is much heavier so I think you would struggle on hills, especially pulling away. I have towed caravans for 26 years and to me there is no substitute for diesel power. Worth looking out the Towcar awards for the last few years and searching for that engine in any class. xlray

Reading all the responses to your original question, you've got one hell of a problem pal. People who come on this forum are generally trying to be helpful. Your attitude stinks, and I wouldn't trust you with a bicycle, let alone a car! Do one!

nice bit of beading from the ceramic foam

Here's the Prototype RWD version (originally know as the Pure version) it's only got 473bhp so it will struggle on the school run it's nice to watch because the driver is heel and toeing You can't see the grill (I do actually quite like it I think, it's grown on me-like moss) The driver has nice arms

Cheers Gerrycan I'm on night rotation this week so sleeping as much as can during the day. When I switched to my current car took dad with me to see if we can get him in and out which wasn't too bad. The Fabia seems a little more refined so will hopefully take him at weekend however being in Scotland have to pray for a wee bit of sun, my dad aint been able to drive for 15 years or so due to health issues. Loves his cars and showrooms as well as teaching me how to look after a car in the simpler days of 80/90's. Result is friends who don't like spannering are always looking for something done as their garage is too busy or can I look at their kids cars now too. Am short but most mates are built like brick outhouses so smaller car is a good excuse to leave them behind.

With cars the same size as a Hercules Transporter, they need 500bhp just to park up a kerb

@vrskeith I have one just now in orange. Loaned for a week and i am treating it with great care. Covered over 630 miles with it on 3 full to 100% charges and one to 80% and it has over 150 mile range just now. All charges have been free.

Same problem for me - 2012 Superb Estate Elegance Petrol 4x4. Thanks to these posts I had the motor out, freed up with some WD40 and back here writing this post 10 mins later. Mine was just a bit stiff (too little use during Corona lockdown) and freed easily. I didn’t even remove the plug so was able to ascertain it worked ok before re-installing. A word of caution, make sure the fan assembly is properly seated when fitting it back in. Mine was slightly ‘cross threaded’ the first time I put it in and didn’t work (presumably the fan itself has very little clearance so was jamming). Keep up the good work everyone - this is a great resource!

Some progress today, at long last. Plan for the day (off) was to start off by substituting back in, in a different cylinder, the coilpack that got changed out last Friday. Idea being, see if it really is faulty, and if so the fault should show in its new home cylinder. Then I had in mind to unplug engine ECU connections, and pre-cat oxygen sensor, inspect all for corrosion etc. and check continuity and for shorts on the wiring from ECU to the sensor. After that, I was planning to go a bit deeper into the chain timing by fitting the crank locking pin and then seeing how far out, if at all, the cams were from their proper angles. I did the coil swap/shift, and that suggests there was never anything wrong with the coilpack. No misfires, no fault codes, at any engine temperature. I did inspect the engine ECU connectors, which were spotless, but didn't do the continuity testing 'cos something else occurred to me while I was looking into the bay. @sepulchrave mentioned air leaks early on, and I didn't do anything with that suggestion except have it in the back of my mind as something I should check. I found myself staring at the PCV valve and a dead easy experiment occurred to me. With engine running, I put my finger over the pressure-equalising port, expecting to maybe feel a bit of oscillating air but not to have any effect on the engine. That didn't happen. As soon as I put my finger over it, it stared squealing loudly, with frequency diminishing with time, and the engine bogged down and cuts out completely if I keep my finger there. Veeeerrrrry interesting. That port shouldn't be sucking, it's supposed to just let the diaphragm move in response to inlet vacuum levels, which would be harder for it if the space above it was a sealed cavity. So I borrowed the diaphragm/spring/lid off one of my Polos (different breather arrangement, but same type of PCV valve). Bit of a battle to unclip it down the back of the Polo engine, but plug and play onto the Fabia. Now if I put my finger over the pressure-equalising port, it makes no difference to the engine running. And it makes no noise. That could be the end of this! Thanks sep. Lots of test driving to do to re-establish confidence, but I have a good feeling about it. During a shortish test drive just now, I even think the brake servo function might be better than it has been for some time, possibly because inlet vacuum isn't being spoiled by breather malfunction when the throttle is fully closed? The owner has just taken it on an urban drive; I'd be over the moon if she notices the brakes are working better (and if the car runs OK! )

218PS is the power output of the iV so I would say this is the PHEV. Full BEV is coming at some point as there will be a BEV Passat in the next few years or so

They just gave me a spanner and told me to help myself from the other cars in the bay. I'M JOKING OF COURSE!!

Alright, I took it in today and they found my under-tray still propped up in the corner of the garage... Anyway it's all fixed up now, thank you all once again.

@FatWolfie A rather different proposition from the Zoe - I got an Audi e-tron 50. i'm leasing it through my work (NHS) at a very subsidised price with extra incentives for going pure electric meaning that I've got a car that I could never otherwise afford.

How did you test there is no vacuum leak? What type of gasket did you use? Black one covered in rubber? Or metallic one with cardboard gaskets? What sealant did you use? On the distributor position issue: I hope that you agree the actual position of the distributor is wrong. Failing to admit it will not encourage me to give you more advice. I will never struggle for doing good against people's will... Read these topics entirely.

picked up some new bits previous buckets are old and small .. so x2 megs 5 gallon buckets and grit guards, wheel brush as my micro fibers torn polar blast snow foam (my BH auto has ran out so thought I'd give something else a go) megs ultimate detailer and a new bottle of miller's as I'd ran out and used a full tank with the turbo cleaner going through.. no, I didn't notice any difference but maybe it's cleaned, maybe it was a waste.