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Nearly 30 months old and 26,000 miles but still looks smart in Moon White.

2 different photos, these were taken yesterday, very much like how the Rolls came out

Couldn’t help myself had to mess about with these shots.

Don't be provocative, investigation is always charged upfront & reimbursed with the warranty work invoice, its been like that for 20 odd years & still some don't get it.

I'd think that you could only check that the fuse and its connecting terminals are in good condition and that it tightly grips the fuse, any point like that in a circuit should normally only get warm/hot if there is some circuit resistance at that point and so volts are getting dropped > leading to getting warm/hot.

Well, you've got less than 6 months till the 5 year deadline. Surely worth asking seller to change cambelt - or at least contribute to the cost otherwise you should budget £500 for the change and don't forget to change water pump etc at same time.

Right I'll say it right up front, unpalatable as it is to some - I don't want a DSG. There it is, done it, said it. Following on - Skoda really don't appear to want my money. First the Octavia III 190PS 2.0 TSI SEL - sounded like a great idea, but hold on, DSG only. Ocavia IV, well I still don't trust Skippy the 1.5TSI so perhaps its back to diesel, 2 litre, ah but hold again, 150 PS is reserved for DSG - you want manual -116 PS is good enough for you then. There is the possibility of being able to stretch to a vRS next time (Having said that I don't see the wheel/tyre combo it will come with coping with the roads in my area) but will vRS buyers be allowed a manual option? Looking up the Skoda range further - Superb, wall to wall DSGs Don't get me wrong I'm happy for DSG fans but I'm beginning to hate those 3 letters - every nice looking car I see, start reading the spec, still looking good, but sooner or latter there it is -DSG. Come on Skoda, how about some decent options for folk that still want a manual gearbox?

Karoq 1.5tsi dsg... Took it out for a good run today. Up and down hill and dale. Its a real joy to drive compared to my old 2009 tiguan 2.0tdi sport 4motion. Lovely and smooth over the rubbish UK roads, responsive engine and in over 100 fun miles.... Not a creak or squeak from the cabin plastics or suspension. Sometimes I can be guilty of looking for problems where none exist. Fallen in love again 😍

So ... I had the firmware updated a month or so ago. I've only just started driving it again after being furloughed but it feels a lot smoother. I've not noticed anything detrimental so far and the MPG doesn't seem to have been affected. Fingers crossed. I've done maybe 600-700 miles now and no issues. Still a little jerky when cold but nowhere near as bad. Oh and on the way home from work today ......

True, but with an illegal very fast engine.

And it was all Golden Boy's fault. Wrecked both cars 30 seconds into the race. Maybe Sainz wont have too much to worry about when he moves there.

I mentioned "too cold" as a way of saying the air-con is working so that people would not ask "Have you checked the air-con?". Yes, you are right in that turning up the temperature a bit will make this easier to tolerate. I should say at this point (I should have said it in post #1) is that I am talking about my son's car and it was he that bought and replaced the resistor pack himself. He is a qualified Electrical Engineer but not the auto-electrician type. I am just trying to help him since I have more time than he has to investigate on his behalf. I have sent him the link to this thread so any comments posted here will help him. Thanks! Your input is very much appreciated.

It won't be long until the 3 big teams will be begging Lando to sign a long term lucrative contract with him currently 3rd in the Driver's table with 26 points in the Renault powered McLaren he may be very competitive next season with Mercedes power.

Only one lap today from Vettel and he qualified 10th. Last week in the dry he qualified 11th and finished 10th 24 seconds behind the winner despite the safety cars. I know the cars has some issues, but Leclerc managed P2 last week.

It's not bad with the 6 speed manual either. Ours is currently averaging almost 49mpg which is very good for a comfy, petrol SUV with room for 5 adults and a competitive 500 litre boot. Still on the original Michelin Primacy 3 tyres after 25,800 miles.

ONE point from 2 races is hardly going to bring him that 5th World Title or impress the other nine Team Principals.

It's on the BBC, so it must be true, however it's still showing Vettel driving a Ferrari. To be honest it's been a while since Vettel's driven anything with any purpose.

Thanks, gave it a try but does not find the update. It does look though that it is doing an update OTA using the eSIM as the map data field has gone from 20.3 to 20.4 and is now 20.5 🙂 John

Found the leak ! It’s from around the thermostat housing area. I found a little puddle on top of the gearbox and then that’s when i spotted the dried spray of antifreeze I’ll take it to work tomorrow and strip it down and order the new bits. I work in a Bodyshop so no biggie. Thanks for the help

Looking great!

They might do then. If your spoiler looks the same as those pictures it'll probably be fine. Your car is listed as a vRS under your username, hence my assumption you were talking about a vRS.

So from what I can gather, the ICE-only variants of the mk. 4 vRS will feature a 6-speed manual gearbox (with presumably a DSG option) for the petrol, but the diesel will be DSG only, with a 4WD option? Has this been confirmed? Very disappointed if this is the case - I'd be VERY interested in a diesel IF it had a 6M gearbox, but zero interest in DSG. Don't think I want a petrol version - my current mk 3 TDi has more than enough grunt, and is economical to run - a petrol with a third more power, and (I assume) several insurance groups higher, not to mention much lower MPG, would be a step too far. Will there be any 6M option on the TDi, do we know?

the guy up the road in the Lambo

@J.R. You would lose that bet. Simple enough to check, just leave them sitting in the sun on a very hot day and see if there is a puddle of sealant in the bottom off the tyre.

Step 4 - VCDS coding: Enter control module CAN Gateway, click Installation List and check the box for 55 Headlight Range. This will tell the car you have level sensors and a range control module installed. Enter control module Cent. Electrics, go to byte 14 and check bit 4 "Bi-xenon headlights (without shutter) installed". If you don't see this checkbox in your VCDS (it wasn't there for me), do it manually in the binary coding by changing the fifth digit from the right from a 0 to a 1 Enter control module Headlight Range, click on Coding, enter 1507610 and click Go. This should automatically re-code the AFS slaves too. Go to Basic Setting, select Group 01 and click Go. Align the headlights using the manual adjustment screws on top of each headlamp unit. Check for any stored fault codes (there shouldn't be any) and clear if so. Once there are no fault codes left, exit VCDS and cycle the ignition. You are now ready to test if everything works. Step 5 - testing: Every time you start the engine, the headlight motors will perform a self-test routine where the vertical motors will go to their lowest level, the horizontal motors will go to their farthest outwards and back in, and then the vertical motors will return to the correct height. You should also have some new options in maxidot: Under "Assistants" there will be an option to turn Bend Lighting on and off Under "Setup" and then "Lights & Vision" there will be an option to turn Travel Mode on and off. Go for a drive! Once moving, you should notice the headlights will move laterally with the steering. Step 6 - bonus round if you have auto wipers! Try changing the Headlight Range coding to 1311190 - this should unlock AFS II functionality, which the mk2 Octavia was never sold with in the UK. You will need to perform the Basic Setting again after changing the coding! With AFS II, you should also notice that at speeds under ~30mph, the offside headlight will be quite low and pointing quite far outwards. Once you go over ~30mph, you will see it move back towards the centre and slightly upwards. This is the AFS II transitioning from "city light" to "country light". The beam shape will also change slightly at higher speeds (such as on the motorway) where the level of both lights will adjust slightly upwards to extend the range of the lights. There is also a different beam shape that will activate when the rain sensor detects rain. Congratulations - you now have completely safe and legal retrofitted xenon headlights which will pass MOT! Ps. massive thanks to @langers2k for the immense amount of help he gave me at almost every step of the way, including doing the adaptations to my wiring loom as I am colourblind and had trouble with it! I'm certain I would not have been successful with this conversion without all of his advice

I bet if you leave your car parked all day in very high temperatures it will drive like the Flinstone wagon for the first few miles.

Came across a new-to-me vacuum leak fault this morning that looks likely to be a common one on the 6-valve 3-cylinder engines as these cars get older. It was on a 9N3 2005 Polo, but same engine code is in plenty of Mk1 Fabias. The AWY engine code that preceeded this one is probably similarly vulnerable. Owner was asked "are there any fault lights on" and I was told "Oh yes, been on quite a while" So VCDS Lite was plugged in and revealed 3 Faults Found: 16555 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1: System Too Lean P0171 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 16490 - Manifold / Barometric Pressure Sensor (G71) / (F96): Implausible Signal P0106 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 16725 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Implausible Signal P0341 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent I must admit I was surprised not to see a 'cylinder 2 misfire' code instead of all that, 'cos I've previously replaced coilpacks 1 & 3 on this car. I also viewed and logged a few parameters to see what was happening, and the inlet manifold pressure was a god chunk higher than I would have expected at idle, somewhere around 360mbar. Anyway, set about looking for air/vac leaks and found one, not one I've seen before. The servo vac hose was bodge/temporary repaired with gaffer tape at least a couple of years back, and that repair is still in place, and not leaking. Not that. Tested the effect of putting a finger over the pressure equalising port of the PCV valve and no effect, so that was passed. Happened to knock the output hose of the PCV valve as I moved my hand away from the previous test and heard a pronounced hiss/suck sound, accompanied by the engine bogging down. Aha! The shiny black plastic hose here is the one I knocked, and subsequent fiddling showed that an upwards knock near the steel pipe end had most effect. And this is why (hose actively held upwards from its resting position): Gaffer-tape temporary repair was enough to prove the point: The car initially wasn't at all happy at low revs, bogging down badly, but a few minutes running with a few on/offs and it all settled down. No fault codes returned during a short test drive. As a bonus, and not surprising to me following a similar situation on our Fabia last week, the brake servo suddenly got much more effective! Not sure what the best long-term fix is, presumably some rubbery hose of oil-resistant material, of a size that'll fit both metal pipe and hard plastic section. Item 38 in the diagram here; 03D103606L appears to be the part number of the genuine item, but it's spectacularly overpriced if this is anything to go by: https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/vw-audi-seat-skoda/vw-audi-seat-skoda-03d103606l-venthose/ That's just one of the rubbery joining bits, not the whole assembly! I suspect the gaffertape solution will remain there, knowing the owners. And it'll probably be fine.

Yet another update. I've just picked up the car this morning after it went in last Thursday for both recall jobs. They discovered that the sunroof drains were in fact working fine, but the problem was with a gap in the sealant between the bulkhead and some other panel relating to the wing. I was a bit dubious about this, but the upshot of it all was that they have replaced the missing section of sealant and replaced all of the carpet and underlay/soundproofing under warranty. Quite a big job as this entails taking all of the seats out and bits of trim. They seem to have done a good job so I guess only time will tell as to wether it will let water in again. Strange that it's taken 2 1/2 years to get to the point were it started to leak but the dealers must be fairly satisfied that it's been a success.

Pleased to report a bit of folded tape has stopped the rattle.

Erm...? I think......er.......well.....hmmmm?..........it depends?........er........although.........but!..................er......OK

Having once towed an exhibition box trailer weighing 1.9 tonnes with my 150 I would NOT want to do it again. It might be legal but it was not pleasant! As Urrell says, for someone with little to no experience they need to be looking at either a bigger car or a smaller caravan.

It is recommended that the weight of the caravan should not exceed 85% of the weight of the car, ESPECIALLY for anybody new to towing. Edit: https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/driving-advice/towing-capacity-how-to-work-it-out/

Well Silver1011 how did it go? 🙂

Check the SD card is present or they at least have it for the sat nav. They can go wallies.

I don’t own the 230 so can’t help on specifics of that model but it sounds like you’ve got it covered. If it’s a Skoda dealership they will be able to provide a printout of the digital service history. Failing that, if you install the My Skoda app to your phone and plug it in to the car via USB it will show there however will not provide specifics on what was carried out (there will be a ref no that Skoda can look up for the specifics). Have a check of the wheel centre caps too, these tend to corrode and aren’t cheap for what they are. Recently had mine replaced under warranty although they will no doubt corrode again. Worth while getting the dealer to replace as the car will be “new” to you and, if like mine, it’s in mint condition you don’t want it spoilt by something as small as that to resolve.

Hi! First time Skoda owner, picked up a 66 plate Octavia 1.4 TSi Sport last week after having had three VW Passats. The last one was a 2.0 TDi Estate with DSG which my wife is now happily driving. Very happy with the Octavia so far, it's practical enough for us and the two kids, but quick enough to keep me entertained when no-one else is in the car. The only problem is the lack of DSG paddles on the steering wheel. I thought I'd be ok without them, turns out, I'm not. I really liked them on the Passat, and with the Octavia being a bit quicker, I'm surprise they weren't a standard fit. I have VCDS (HEX + CAN), I'll add my name to the list. I'll probably be posting questions soon with regards to retrofitting paddles....

None of the Gen 5 VAG cars have an official schedule for filter cleaning, just oil change as far as I'm aware.

Put the stalk 1 click up into what is normally intermittent. Then you have the sensitivity adjust on the top of the stalk.

Looking around, it’s suggested this is to be done every 10k miles. I’m certainly going to continue doing mine.

Never had a problem opening ours after 30 months and nearly 26,000 miles. Need to treat it gently like a woman and access will be provided.

Got my wife's 2015 Polo recharged by ATS today, I considered removing the charging port dust caps in case they got lost or not put back on - then thought I should really trust them to do the proper job, wrong now I see the low side dust cover has gone, so I'll need to buy a new one, why can't people do the job they are paid to do! I checked the system over for leaks while working hard, by using a pumped sniffer, no leaks evident, at least I have recorded what I should have done years ago, ie taken a set of reading of ambient temperature, evaporator temperature, high side pressure and centre vent outlet temperature. Soon I'll check the running pressures using my fridge manifold as I should have done last year!!

I guess the way to look at it is that they are necessary, due to trolly-shunting nutters!

AmusedMussel, I think they actually look nicer on, then off. They for the black/green scheme nicely and break up a quite long door hight. (This is why they add the black door pillars to many cars- so as to make the roofline appar not so high. A kind of optical illusion, if you will). Have a look at the earlier two piccies, as a kind of before and after... You will still be left with the door line anyway, albeit a little less prominent. Add that tp the protection they may just give and keeping them on is a no-brainer!

It is a while since I last tried to adjust the centre headrest but I remember concluding at the time that ski portal would severely restrict the length of the headrest legs, compared to the normal rear seats. Three adults in the back is practical for short trips but I would not recommend it for any real distance purely because of the centre headrest. In terms of seat width then @Alex-W is right of course in that comfort for three it is relative to their combined "width" but the Octavia/Golf does sacrifice a fair bit of available passenger width for side impact safety. Note the distance from the seat edge to beyond the sill when either front or rear door is open. I'm reminded of that each time I watch elderly (infirm) relatives struggle to access or leave the car.

Since I can't edit my post (probably because I'm new): I added some sizes (there are now 20, 30, 40 and 50mm height increase) and some pictures of the thingy in use. Please excuse the bad quality, my mobile phone isn't the best.

2015 RS TDI Eibach Sportline. 19" AEZ Straight dark. Facelift rear lights (Not in 1st picture). OEM Alcantara steering wheel (pics will come). Full interior led, rear plate led and parking light front. Highline OEM rearview camera. Things to do: Lip on rear ving. Debadge rear and black skoda badge front and rear. Expansion bottle replacement (ordered) DPF/EGR delete. Remap.

I decided to get up early this morning and head off for a drive. We're lucky that there are some amazing roads round here and that on a Sunday morning the only real traffic on the roads is the occasional sheep or pheasant. The route is about 74 miles and goes from Scarborough up to Whitby, over the tops and then down to Danby, Castleton, Blakey Ridge and back home to Scarborough via Pickering. I also took a few photos along the way as it seemed like a good idea at the time. The car performed brilliantly and even returned nearly 37mpg despite the occasional use of the right foot. It's been ages since I used the car for anything other than going to work and back so I'm glad i made the effort.

@AmusedMussel A previous owner must have put them on as the car does not come as standard with door protectors. You might find that there has been paint / lacquer spaying / repainting before or damage under the stips. Just beware of that. Plus they might not have gone on using the trim tape.

VCDS will let you look at what it thinks the gas pressure is, it might just be short of charge and need recharged, or it might have suffered stone damage to the condenser, or worse the evaporator. Do you have mobile car AC systems operators near you, one of them might be your best chance to get it diagnosed and recharged, or even repaired.