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However winter wheels often start with about 8mm tread, and summer tyres about 6.5mm tread (I use about as varies by brand so can’t be precise) So if you wear the tread 1mm, diameter reduces by 2mm and circumference therefore goes down 6mm. Therefore not worth worrying about as no one replaces tyres when tread depth changes just 1mm

Retrospectively, everybody knows what the signs were, I say don't kick yourself too much. Check the engine is fine, upgrade the turbo, and be happy again with the car.

Does anybody take responsability for their actions and "suck it up" these days?

There are threads on numerous car forums showing photo's of "extreme parking" where those of us who care about our car go to great lengths to find somewhere to park where the morons can't open their car door against your car.... I always park at the furthest end of supermarket car parks where the lazy and feckless can't be bothered walking from. At work I have managed to find somewhere round the back that nobody else bothers with.... A perpetual problem and I sympathise with the OP if he can't find anywhere to park away from others who don't give a toss about your property.....

It is really sad that Skoda have the Fabia R5 achieving Motorsport / Rallying success and sold to the general public only 95 / 110ps FWD cars. (They did a some limited edition 1.4 TSI 125ps R5 tribute mk3 in left hands drive, or the full fat R5 to those that are going to rally them.) Then vRS badges being used on the Octavia or Kodiaq & then 'Monte Carlo' used on whatever as a trim / stylee thing.

Still had some vibrations with braking, despite the fact I had no collision or damage to the wheels or drivetrain. I took my 2 pieces 350x34mm discs to workshop http://www.ttm-strojna-obrada.hr/ and checked both. We removed 0,12mm from the right side, the one I suffered accident 6 years ago, and I thought left one must be perfect, but have removed 0,5mm on the left one which was curvy on naked eye even. Now there is absolutely no vibrations felt and still left to repeat braking on procedure according to Pagid racing. VID_20201121_103613.mp4 VID_20201121_104636.mp4

Well done Toyota GR for showing VW , BMW, Audi, etc and others how it should be done. Hyundai are making an effort with the I 20 N. This is what the the UPGTi or Polo GTi R etc could have been.

Going by personal experience i'd say buy a Rapid with caution & dont get a diesel rapid if you are planning on doing short journeys or the DPF will be toast. I used to use mines for motorway travelling 40 miles everyday which was fine but more recently it's just short journeys now & that's when the problems started. I also think it's because the car is getting older along with the filter, it's a 2013 with 89,000 on the clock. The car is also meant to run worse if you have the EA189 update installed but I have never had this. Heres a thread I replied to on the issues I've had during ownership and 2 repairs have been major and costly

I live on the border and if I was smart I would've just gotten a Northern license like everyone else. Customs only bothers you if someone snitches on you. Plenty of people around me have Northern cars and get away with it. Apparently Nox is gone up again so thats quashed any hopes of me getting a mk1 vRS, it would actually be cheaper for me to take my old sdi and make it into a vRS wannabe. As opposed to going through all of the hoops and jumps of getting my Monte Carlo fully legal another time. Vrt is a one off payment on first registration on a car in the south of Ireland. It in and of itself is a certain percentage of the cars value in the south. So for my Monte Carlo it was 17% of its value at that time on the market in Ireland, not what I payed for it. The NOx charge we speak of is a new tax applied to all imports at the start of this year. It is impacted by the NOx emissions produced by the car and is mainly aimed at diesels, so the Irish government can say they are doing something for the environment. The nox emissions is calculated in certain brackets and it worked out to be 1700 euro ON ITS OWN! The vrt itself was "cheap" because its a low CO2 emissions, however the NOx was a joke because my car is "high emissions" and bad for the environment. Having said that My yearly tax is only €170 because my car is a euro 5 diesel with a Dpf and "low emissions". My explanation sounds farcical and it is, because the Irish government has been very good at taxing people to death under the excuse of "saving the environment". As a final "kick" I had to pay for my own plates (I was going to get personalized ones anyway so it didnt matter) and had to get my Mot transferred (I can't remember If I had to pay to take it through) and the NOx payment alone would have paid for my insurance (Very expensive since I'm under 25). Lastly, I STILL managed to save money on it because even a 100k+ mile curb rashed 75hp diesel Monte Carlo cost more than the immaculate 105Hp one I have now. In closing, Irelands customs is misery personified and that means we have to either "ride dirty" on uk plates or dish out a small fortune for the few clean examples of cars here. /End Rant.

Had to be Cork with a Beamish truck in the background. Memories of the Preachers on Thursday nights_Beamish promotion!!😁

@Dyrnog, yes, exactly. If I restart the car in the same day or day after, at least from what I observed, the fault doesn't appear. I'll try a diagnose with OBDEleven

Likewise, my 2014 Rapid Spaceback also has the squeaky, clunky front suspension (but apart from the noises there’s nothing mechanically wrong, it’s just a quirk of how it’s put together). Mine also suffered from the door seal fault. Due to a poorly Designed rubber door seal, the drainage holes on the doors - particularly the rear doors - would be blocked by the seal when the door was shut. This would cause the doors to fill with water. This was fixed on early Models like mine by cutting a small V section out of the seal, and later seals had this mod pre-done.

Whoever at SEAT answered the question doesn't have a clue - yes EVs and hybrids use Lithium Ion batteries (for the propulsion batteries) but ICE and hybrids use Lead acid batteries (for the non-propulsion batteries).

The early ones ( dates already posted) rattled whistled leaked and had hatchback doors that didn't often fit properly. My 2014 had the endemic squeaky front suspension and a few minor rattles but was otherwise very good. The build quality of the my 2018 model is definitely better, just a shame they binned off the lovely petrol engines for the awful 1.0TSI.

The Yeti's towing eyes are no stronger than a Golf or Octavia so definitely no snatch recovery. I've tended to use the towbar to pull people out but again no snatch recovery.

It sounds like you and I are running basically exactly the same cars 👍 - manual 230 hatches (albeit yours 2 years younger + FL), both Stage 1 Racingline maps with 330bhp, both 235/35 R19s. I should have added that the APR and 034 (without the additional part they require) mounts do operate exactly the same and have absolutely zero discernable difference in NVH properties from each other. I did see your other thread, I think I also commented (can't remember!), but given what you've described, I'm pretty convinced that the noise is axle tramp under the increased power - especially since we've extended stock BHP by +100 or thereabouts. Mine did it before I replaced the mounts, although I don't tend to pull away hard that often to save the stock clutch for now. Personally, I would go for it to see how you get on with it 😊 It's not an invasive mod, it's not that expensive for a test, and it's fully reversible - so long as you ensure you replace the bolts each time to prevent stripping.

See above. I have checked, and the width is indeed reduced from 225 to 205, so about a 10% reduction. The running pressure for the 16” tyre is also higher at 2.4 bar (as opposed to 2.2 bar for the 18”). The car runs well on the winter tyres, they are certainly quieter (due to the higher aspect ratio I think). It is easier to spin the front wheels with them, particularly in the wet, which is unsurprising.

I eventually got my £11 genuine VW (via Amazon) dongle paired using Connect Lite. Went round the houses with repeated attempts at logging in. Gave up. Today it has connected and updated firmware. Not sure what usefulness it has as yet. Must try pairing with the MIB system again- but only for music. It scared the willies out of me when a phone call came over the stereo..

Go with Iron-X first. Scrubbing it isn’t a good idea if you have much interest in preserving your paintwork.

My Wife used to get similar when her office car park was immediately underneath overhead pylon cables. More noticeable in damp conditions. Used to come off with a hot wash and elbow grease. Fallout remover and a clay bar worked for the really stubborn bits. Gaz

I have had 4 of them over 6 years ( well 1 Rapid and 3 Toledos) and have never had one problem with any of them them.

Hopefully your question concerns equally owners as well as manufacturers and their faulty design/equipment choices. What I'm saying is it's a complicated case this one in general with the blown IS38 turbos on these (even stock) engines. In some cases, remaps surely have provided a get-out-of-jail card to VAG. Imagine the following scenario: A 2018 car soon to be out of warranty and let's assume with a weak turbo from factory. If it blew up (stock) 1-2 years down the road the full repair cost would be down to the owner despite having done nothing wrong. Now let's also assume that a remap may have brought up the issue of the weak stock turbo much sooner while still under warranty. If that particular owner was able to hide his map and have VAG cover the expenses would it really be him not sucking up/commiting fraud or? I mean not typically but ethically... Personally, I wouldn't even bother with claiming under warranty, I'd just upgrade and move on, this was a decision/plan I made before even purchasing the car knowing the probability of a turbo weakness and that I would only increase it by tuning it but if some are failing in stock form i understand it raises the question.

Just an aside Lee, it seems there isn't a particular date of change re rivett v screw, as my donor shifter box is from a 2001 1.4 fabia & mine is 2006! Maybe they used whatever was on hand at the time of manufactor. Anyway.... the pins are both exactly the same. After some research, although the bearing pin is not available, you can still order the relevant long full length plastic bushing from Czech/Latvia. It doesn't make sense really, why sell a bush for a pin that's supposed to be 'non-seviceable', as you say, madness....! I'm just making another little mod before putting the console & bits back in & then all done. Will explain how I did it shortly.

Sounds like a load of fallout. Something like Iron-X would be a good start to see how much it shift. Probably need multiple treatments. https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=360396

You'll need something like Iron X or Devils Blood to remove that.

Just looked on neighbours cars they have none looked on husbands Citigo that’s fine, we are only 1 Mile from a power station what runs on bio fuels and my car is at home a lot ?

So now you have to check which of the Auris had issues. I know 2 people that did have and rejected cars and i think that was about 2015 and maybe early cars out for Euro 5 emissions coming in.

Thanks very much for the insight, I’ve been gradually getting more and more out off the rapid the more I look at the forum, so this is reassuring. I’m starting to wonder whether I should let go of brand loyalty and instead get an Auris, as it seems the Rapid is hit and miss with a split of happy owners and unhappy ones. Thanks again

I fitted the (version 1) 034 Motorsport Billet Aluminium MQB Dogbone Mount Insert from awesomegti.com back in March 2018. I obviously checked out the 034 site at the time and there was no mention of an upper Dogbone Mount Insert being needed. My 1.4L is unmodified, I am a low mileage user and I never push it. The billet eliminated practically all judder and I noticed no additional vibration or noise. There has been no return of tramping, the billet is not twisted and the mount is as good as the day I fitted the insert. I assume the problems experienced by others are related to greater power delivery, but there is little real information out there. gregsko

Late November 2020 and the Cabrio is going for the last piece of major scheduled service item. On Friday she is off for a cambelt / tensioners / water pump and aux belt change. Last changed by a previous owner in 2013 it is well overdue on time, but well short on mileage. Apart from that nothing to report, it continues to be driven on regular long distance journeys even in these strange times as a key worker.

The build quality is good as everything is screwed together well and the swtich gear is high quality and wont break. It's a pretty solid built car all round. The parts fitted must be of a decent quality cause I havent had to replace things like sensors, drop links, etc ever & we are talking about a 7 year old car that's used daily. The paint work is robust too, its a hard paint and not easily scratched. Equipment wise may be a bit dated now but I have a USB port, Air Con, Rear Parking Sensors & Bluetooth to connect my mobile so its enough for me and really what else do you need maybe sat nav? The ride can be a bit jittery over uneven roads, not too noticeable but its definitely better sitting on the motorway that's for sure. The space cant be beaten for what you pay in its class, boot is massive and passengers will be very comfortable. The seats are firm but very comfortable for going long distances. MPG is really good & I manage an average of 55MPG on short and motorway driving. Parts are common so cheap to source and tyre size very common so not expensive either. If you get the right one I would say go for it.

I suspect there will be 3 USB-C ports, 2 on dashboard below infotainment, and another by the mirror (under a little cover) for those that want a dashcam. But this is speculation based on other group models But as with all facelifts, might gain something, and loose other features, so might not be worth waiting especially if price jumps

My poverty spec Superb has 205 55 R16 Michelin Crossclimates and it's very refined indeed

I think he was.

According to @Othenthe width was reduced from 225 (he thinks) to 205, so not an increase in width. As it is the width is the widest part of the tyre and not all 225, or 205's are equal on the width of the tread. The tyres circumference is really quite important though and checking is the speedo and milometer reading accurately, or at least reading the same since seldom are they accurate on the OEM tyre sizes.

Not enough data! You need to add tyre profile into your sums then use Tyre Fitment and Calculator to get a more accurate figure. Alternative is to measure circumference using a tape measure. Most of your 8mpg 'gain' is from the increase in wheel width alone. Also check your speedo is correct before the nice man with the Talivan does!

Amazing car, not too keen in the digital dash, I prefer the old fashioned dials. Car is VERY comfy and quiet but not as well finished as my old Karoq which I think was 'more solid' as a car with thicker body panels. As the Kamiq is lighter than the karoQ, I'm getting a better range on MPG from Gatwick to Brighton & Hove each day. As this car was already built and 'spec'd up' it did not have all the bells and whistles I wanted, but as they say, beggars can't be choosers. Very nice car for the money, and I'm glad I chose it too. Please let us know when you pick yours up. . This is mine in race blue....

After loads of research on Littco turbo's, I'm no longer worried. I can't find anything negative only (even though one tuner said I would), and even Celtic Tuning have been posting about tuning them to between 1.85 and 2.0 bar. It does seem like the OEM turbo is a bit of a lottery, with issues from bearing journals, some not being as balanced as others and oil starvation (seen this a couple of times). If anyone is considering a remap on the OEM turbo, I have seen it suggested that you should get the turbo balanced before hand to be on the safe side.

The couple of times I used mine at the front I managed to fit my strap through the eye.

Get some balance! In the 11 years I have been involved with Yeti's I have never seen that fault reported, so how the hell can it be a "known fault"?

And can anyone tell me, why, when we park our pride and joy in an empty area of the supermarket carpark, 100 yards from the door to said shop, no other cars for 50 yards, when we return the car is surrounded by old bangers parked so close to pride and joy you have to keep hold of the door to prevent hitting said bangers while squeezing in to the drivers seat? Mind boggling. No doubt a psychologist amongst us can explain?????

I guess having less rubber on the tarmac has significantly reduced the rolling resistance. I've noticed no difference going from Summer to All season tyres but then the size has remained the same.

That's a lot of cars, Phil. ........................ ( there's always one....... I'll get my coat, Lol).

00010 camshaft A positioner slow response 00135 fuel rail/system pressure: too low 08801 boost pressure control valve (n249) mechanical malfunction Hopefully not a worn lobe on the camshaft. 00010 no idea. But rosstech says check n205 valve and wiring. This could be linked to the 00135 code? 00135 i had this code. I replaced the low pressure fuel sensor, low pressure fuel pump and the low pressure fuel controller. In the end gave up and took it to AKS tuning. They found out straight away that it was a different fuel preasure sensor which is on the underside near the inlet manifold. A previous owner had put the wrong sensor on 200psi and not the required 140psi. Solved the problem. A Genuine new low pressure sensor is not expensive and it isnt difficult to change so it may be a worthwhile starting point to uprate to the latest revision. 08801 no idea. But if you had to change dv or pcv: DV is cheapish but a little fiddly but easy enough. PCV valve and gasket is slightly more expensive but really easy to change.

Arh - welcome to the dodgy Firmware problems of Skoda Connect Lite / VW dongle. They DO NOT work properly out of the box. You have to be persistent. It took me 3 attempts at my mother-in-law's Fabia, but it eventually took. Here are the things I had to do. 1) Switch off any power saving modes you may have switched on. This knackers up the initial communication with the dongle. Please remember, you have to have the ignition on / engine on whilst the car is connecting and upgrading the firmware. 2) If you get a failed - initialisation - be patient; then delete the pairing and the dongle, and try again. You need to be in a situation where the firmware of the dongle is allowed to be upgraded (I think from 9.0.5.0 to 9.0.8.0), then the app will start querying the car and downloading the matrices. 3) When you are done and eventually you get the phone paired and the car communicates, go into Settings and go into "Making a phone call when the hands-free system" - and enable "Hands-free-mode". This means you can allow the phone to talk to the dongle and the car MIB system at the same time. PM me if you need further help.

I was told the mounting bolts are stretch bolts. For the price i replaced them to be on the safe side

I have some general thoughts... It’s been interesting reading ALL the above. I have an 08 Mk1 Fabia with the front windows working or not. Not for most of the time. I know that devices of all sorts rely of an applied voltage meeting a certain threshold level. Let’s say for all devices within the Fabia this is 11.8 Volts Ohms law is very applicable in DC circuits and within this law you think about Voltage, Current and Resistance. As an electrical circuit ages and the devices within it age, the trend is for resistance (R) to rise. Perhaps with water ingress, perhaps with oxidation or just wiring that bends endlessly (as car doors open) and a few strands break perhaps. But the overall result is R increases in various places throughout the car. Perhaps the threshold voltages for different devices also change a little with age too. So it’s logical to me that for a more or less fixed voltage system (circuits) and with R increasing in varying places then some devices or parts of the system(s) will start to misbehave. So I wonder if Fabia window devices stop working because (R in their circuits has risen) applied Volts (V) are too low. Jiggling fuses is a clue. Opening and reconnecting connectors (door A pillar) is another one. so I “think” that the issue is random devices being ok but the applied voltage has dropped. Ohms Law is V= Current x R (So current drops as R increases too... also Power = Volts x Current so as current drops, power in the circuit drops. Hmmm doesn’t sound healthy right!) So do this... Emery paper fuse legs, scratch and polish connector spades. Of course look for cracked wiring and loose connectors. Perhaps spray ACF50 (developed for the aero industry to protect electrical circuits) into connectors and around electrical devices. WD40 may shift moisture that might cause V to track to earth or R to rise. Overall I suspect the odd random issues you are experiencing are mostly not device failures, rather R is increasing with age/damp and applied V is therefore dropping too much. Hop this helps. Trailerchap P.S. today I removed each fuse from the fuse box and Emery papered the spades until they shone. One at a time. I noticed that many were dirty and dull. Afterward my windows opened fine.