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All, TL;DR Black friday discounts code at bottom. A little over 18years ago an idea formed and so it began. Now 18years is quite a good run... For anyone in the dark, briskoda, turned 18years this year Over the years we seen thousands of members post, read, learn, share. Over all models in the range, united by a common theme, if not always in agreement. Each month now we see millions of visitors, reading the rich trove of knowledge we have here. The community has grown, shunk, grown, and will always eb and flow, much like a river as it finds it's way through the countryside. The rise of social media was, and remains a concern. Many of us believe the forum approach offers more than the immediate here today, gone tomorrow of social media. But we do need you're help to keep it thriving. Post, share, spread the word, every action helps. Talking of action, climate action. Earlier this year I set about covering our ongoing carbon impact. The internet is a huge contributor to the problem, more so than driving this year We've been cabron neutral/negative for the services we host upon and consume for a few months now. I wanted to do more, carbon negative overall? This milestone seemed like a good point to do it. Looking back, it's almost impossible to say how much we've used to provide the community; we don't have a totally accurate record of trips to data centre x or y, so it's the best of british fag packet maths... I've taken what we use today, <1/2 tonne per month, still quite a bit eh? Then multiplied it back over time, then added a bit on; quite a bit on, because all those odd days here there, older it equipment was more power hungry and so on adds up... In numbers we might comprehend, it's around 250'000 miles. To that end I've offset an addititional 180tonnes of CO2 to cover our earlier years, that's 10tonnes per year, and includes some slack for driving to x and y, my laptop being on doing updates to the site at 3 or 4am the odd night... Going forward we'll be covering our continued use, so continuing to be negative, along with the tree planting programme. You can find out more about all this here: I'd like to thank the current team of admins, mods for doing what they do. I'd liek to thank former members of the volunteer force over the last 18years for doing there bit to bring us to where we are today. Thank you to all t hose who through freedom part with your own hard earned cash to support what we do here. Of course all that we do, would be for nothing without you, the community member. I thank you too, for your time, the dedication by many to sharing info and the helping others. Thank you all for being a part of, and in making this community. It's yours, you made it, each post, thread added a leaf to briskoda's tree of life. To think we've seen marriages, babies, life altering advice and support, and so much more, all from connections, people, through these few pages. Quite humbling, thank you. So it's 18years, time for a party? Heck yes. One small pandemic problem in the way. I'm begining to come up with a few ideas for next year, shows, trackday etc where we can get together in one way or another. We've all got many bridges and challenges to cross before then, so stay safe and keep in touch. In lieu of a party, I decided to make some space in the storage. So a 50% off stickers voucher code, and other stuff to clear from the shop. I guess you could say it's a black friday event... https://www.briskoda.net/forums/store/category/3-merchandise/ Discount on stickers other merchandise of 50% - code: 18years Old models t-shirts discoverd in a box - £5 ea to clear. Freedom, great value as ever from £6 per year.

Grosjean must be the luckiest man alive today ,unbelievable crash glad he walked away

Hello everyone I have a Superb MK3 2017 4X4 with the dreaded squeaking noises from the the front suspensions. During the annual service I asked the dealership to check this issue. They claimed they put lots of grease, but the noises haven't changed at all. After reading about the problem. I read it's recommended to lube the wishbone bushings, and was advised to use this specific lithium grease and not any type of grease with code G052150 A2 which I just boought. Since it's out of warranty, I'd like to try this myself. I added an official document from Skoda (possibly) explaining how to use the above lithium grease to fix the noises. Is there a place where I can find pictures of these transverse links so I can apply this grease? Thanks in advance.

Been quite some time since I did a detailed update on my wife's Moon White Karoq which we bought on 26th January 2018. The original Braga 18" alloys and Michelin Primacy 3 tyres (215/50R18 front wheel drive size) are sitting in our garage after 27,000 miles on the car. It is currently fitted with the 19" Superb Vega alloys which are 1" wider at 8" and have Bridgestone S001 Performance tyres in 235/40R19 dimension. These have increased fuel consumption by around 10% but I have been impressed by the increased grip in corners and very little extra tyre roar and still excellent ride comfort. Starting the year after 23 months ownership the car had done 22,500 miles and 11 months later it has now covered 28,336 miles. The main reason for the reduction is that my wife like so many now works from home so only uses it for home visits and when helping her service users with shopping. She is a Social Worker dealing with Adults With Learning Difficulties. The good news for us is that the Council pay a generous mileage expenses when she uses the car for work so she usually gets more for her mileage than the monthly fill up requires. This year I have put 572.80 litres of regular unleaded at a total cost of £623.97 and the car has covered 5,795 miles (126 gallons exactly) which works out at an average of 45.99mpg which is not too far from the indicated 46.4mpg Long Term figure in the maxidot onboard computer. We have had no problems this year following 2 issues last year which were resolved around the car's only service so far at 18,700 miles in October 2019. They were just to recap the long awaited software update which has improved the cold engine skippy nature of the car from new which seems to be low torque related and possibly connected to the alternator. It has not completely gone but is much more driveable than before. Another issue which many early KESSY equipped Karoq's suffer from was the failure of both key fobs in quick succession after 21 months which was diagnosed eventually to a batch of faulty key fobs which were both replaced under warranty thankfully. The second service (variable service plan) is not due until October 2021 when the brake fluid will be changed for the first time. The first MOT is due in just 2 months time and the original wipers (all 3 of them) are still in excellent condition and they will also be replaced at the second service which should be at around 35,000 miles. The gearbox has been getting better with age and is now very slick even comparing to the 6 speed manual on my previous Octavia Vrs245. Compared to my current 150PS diesel 2020 Superb DSG the Karoq feels like a sports car owing to it's relatively light 1,360kg kerbweight. The Superb is around 1,500kg and takes about 10 seconds to get to 60mph (but compensates with 66mpg average so far) whereas the Karoq does the sprint in around 8.5 seconds. Overall we are very pleased with the car and it replaced a top of the range Skoda Rapid SE Sport 1.2TSi 6 speed manual which also averaged around 46mpg over 28,500 miles and 3 years between 2015 and 2018. We find the high standard spec of the SEL and the practical 3 rear vario flex seats which can fold up cinema style or can be removed completely so if you need to load long or bulky items (I used the Karoq to collect laminate flooring boards for our kitchen, lounge and master bedroom) it is as practical as the Roomster or Yeti were before it. We paid £23,500 including metallic paint and the RRP is now around £27,500 before discounts. We like this car so much we plan to keep it for 10 years and then sell it when we retire and move to a sunnier climate somewhere.

Just sold my car after more than 8 1/2 years. Would not have sold if I didn’t have to due medical reasons as I can not drive a manual anymore. Very sad to see it go but the new owner is very happy. It was in extremely good condition with a full FMSH and at 99350 still on original disc’s and pads as I had always used the engine to do most of the braking. 60 mpg regularly achieved with 70 plus at times. All this was to work and back while on holiday to Scotland, Kent and Surrey at 70-80 and still got near 50mpg. Anyway gone now so need to wait until the hybrid Bear comes out.

And I’ve written a few guides in 10 years of owning Yetis... One of my concerns before embarking on this latest job was safe access (likewise with Dale, too...!), so I will indeed be including how I secured TIBET III safely in the air - not something that may have been covered for the Yeti in other type’s ‘how to guides’.

If you end up needing a new clamping sleeve it's part number 1K0 253 141K

Did mine on my MPI about six year ago. Wasn't too bad. Just used a grinder with a cutting wheel to chop the original system in half.

Nice job. I'd be interested in your write up to see how you did it (even if just to learn where you placed axel sands etc ) as I fancy trying it myself,

nice one of grey hatch

Put the parts you've bought in your shed/loft and leave there until the current exhaust fails. "Crusty" doesn't matter. Likely outcome of changing what you've got is having lower quality parts on the car, damaging the front section/flexi during removal of other bits, and generally getting nothing for all your efforts. Yes, the middle and rear sections are one piece from the factory,

Looks like he forgot to get around to the B pillar, which likely he was going to say that it is difficult at junctions, but you get that with some 4 doors and the seating position. The pillar needs to be someplace. Less tall people have their seat further forward. Maybe the Taycan drivers i have met are doing as Harry is and asking 'navigation' Fast Charger, when he wants a 'Rapid Charger' and actually a Rapid Rapid charger and not a 'Slow fast fast slow charger or Slow Rapid. The whole set up is still a co-ck up. SatNavs, Waze, Google Maps, Plug Share & ZapMaps are going to have to get better at getting you to the suitable chargers, especially when yoiu want as fast charging as you can get and are willing to pay. I used Instavolt twice once to try as harry did and it was about the same speed and price and the second time i was desperate to get a charge it was not as quick as just a Rapid charger and i was very happy to get some miles available and on my way.

Love this colour

A complete bodge and shows the desperate measures that VAG will take and how low they have sunk. A rubber to metal bonded bearing requires no lubrication, in fact on older compound rubbers it will cause the bearing to fail in short order just like an oil leak onto an engine mounting. They were introduced to do away with the maintenance requirement of greasing articulating suspension joints and also to give a much quieter more compliant ride. I dont doubt that slathering the bushes with grease will temporarily stop the noise coming from the undesired metal to metal contact which is the real issue.

Should be this part, bushing in circled area (front)

Perhaps God gives folk a second chance on my Birthday as 36 years ago today I had major surgery to remove cancer in a saliva gland removed from my neck. Every day is now a good day having been given a second chance.

nice! speedo should work through abs now. At least it did in my first one when I ran the later abs unit

Hi, finally got around to checking the work I'd done. Thank you for your advice. I found the issue. I'd managed to pull a pipe off that connects to what I think is the turbo breather at the back of the engine. After lots of 'f' words and fishing the little rubber part from the engine bay. I managed to reconnect it. Cleared the errors and now all is good. Certainly feeling the difference as I suspect that I was running on the original plugs which had done 45k.

This is a presentation issue on the website, having filtered to correct size 225/40 R18, they are including the 92Y. As already discussed the letters are max speed. The 92 is a load weight rating. (92 is 630kg), so no wheel should carry more than that fully loaded (might be easier to think of it as 1260kg max per axle). Table of weights here https://www.ctyres.co.uk/general/load-index

That's the F1 Autocentre showing the Load Rating combined with the Speed Rating. Load Ratings The clue is it says 92Y XL - which means the tyre has a Y speed rating (186mph/300km/h) and a 92 XL load rating (630kg, higher than a non-XL version of the same tyre due to stiffer sidewalls).

Have you done any mods that may affect the electrical system recently?

Channel 4 making me wait till 9PM for the highlights show! The race is on at 2.

Our dealer said 2 weeks from production week when we ordered it. Maybe it is expedited due to registration fee changes in Denmark from New Years.

Two bags with back seats taken out.

That's really interesting that you should say that. I was really impressed with the Volvo apart from the infotainment and the general ergonomics of everything you interacted with. However, the Skoda just worked. The big downside that I didn't like is that the Skoda was a bit more busy over our crappy Australian roads than the XC60. Is it worth 15k AUD more though? I think I'm leaning in a particular direction if you couldnt tell ;)

The socket is permanently live on my Karoq so trickle charging a C-TEK charger via the cigar lighter socket works. My recollection in previous threads, is that it was more or less decided that trickle charging through the socket didn't actually do any damage. I did this for a while during the 1st lockdown - bought the special C-TEK adaptor. Battery is fine so far but the car is only 15months old. My model of the C-TEK charger has a sulphation repair mode, but whether that would fully rectify a seriously damaged battery, I don't know. I think the charger when connecting up, somehow lets you know if there is sulphation damage.

A 2020 Superb should be a 3V, at least in the UK. As mentioned above, your VIN will confirm. You can see pictures of each generation (3U, 3T 3V) on wiki: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Škoda_Superb

Hmmm... I do have side assist but dont have driver memory seat. If that is correct than ok, but i specifically asked when configuring whats the difference with side mirrors if i opt that or not. Was said that the difference is only that it has memory funciton which adjust to the seat possitions. No word about lowering when reverse... I find it stupid, when customers usually know more that dealers themselves... Its not just the case with Skoda, my previous car was Peugeot 308 and when buying i was almost instructing the seller of its hidden characteristics... 😂🤦‍♂️

Speaking as a non expert but having messed around with the electrics on my Disco 3 & Disco 4, incl fitting second batteries, have a little experience in this area. Would only work if the socket not “protected” by a relay. If the socket is permanently live then it doesn’t have a relay in there so is not looking for the voltage from the crank battery via the ignition key. Then a trickle charger would add volts to the system, enough to power up the locks. If it is protected, and the battery is dead, then the voltage it’s looking for will prob be too low, socket will not connect to the battery and the rest of the car. Now talking of aux sockets, isn’t the boot socket, beside the little torch, perm live? That might be a route to get a trickle charger in though to give enough volts to open the locks. Bit of a clamber from the driver’s seat but not impossible. Another route the LR owners use is via towing electrics, specifically the permanently live feed for the caravan fridges. They even have has specific adapters made to connect a C-tek charger to the main battery as a routine way of charging. Works well as long as peeps remember to disconnect before driving off. PS This is the jumper cable arrangement used to make a socket, or series of sockets, perm live off the crank battery. No idea how it would look on a Karoq but the principle would be the same. Re batteries sitting dead for long stretches after manufacture, my car was built late July 19, but not picked up by me until June 20. After 5 months and 4,100 miles it hasn’t missed a beat. It was a Skoda UK preregistered car, wonder if it was charged during that time or the battery was changed as part of the PDI process.

Even more interesting are the fuel efficiency labels; one is 'C' and one is 'E' - how is that possible? Oponeo confirms the labels for MO and AO1 Why does F1 Autocentre put a 'Y' in the tyre designation?

Happens a lot here !!

Thanks for the reply , all went perfect with the fitting no spacers needed straight on running 255/35/19 x 9.5j all round . Looks amazing 👌🏻

If I was you I’d probably go and spend my money at Darkside Developments.

Hamilton said they weigh 3 kg more than the 2019 tyre and wondered what development Pirelli had been doing in the last 24 months when they are according to him 1 second a lap slower as well.

Drivers all hate the 2021 tyres they tested Friday. These tyres are stronger and slower and Pirelli say they are more robust to cope with rising downforce levels. FFS, downforce is being substantially reduced next year - so F1 will just be left with a set of too stiff tyres again.

It’ll blow up in a week, obviously.

Got a few here n there.....

ABS converted from Bosch 5.7 to 8.0 heat protection for brake and clutch lines

@MalcolmPreen you are a star mentioning the 2 metal hooks, I think I was trying to grip these as well. Thanks to all the others that indicated what to do as well Had a go and now have 2 osram nightbreaker bulbs in, seems to be working, but won’t know until nighttime how much better they are. Was never a problem in SW London (with streetlights), but unlit country roads showed how weak the lights were, especially compared to our other car with LED headlights

Just bin the alarm, it'll be fine without. Or you could try removing its fuse (no. 20 in cabin, top row 4th from right) to see if that suffices.

I would love a guide! The headliner is my next step. Just did the bottom part of the interior. WARNING: Nude Fabia is lewd Fabia. Added some dynamat just under the handbrake wires to prevent rattle, added some aluminium tape over it to prevent it from scratching and cluttering. And here are some examples of the dirt that accumulates in difficult to reach places: I decided to try CrisFix's youtube guide for interior cleaning, it did wonders! LINK: Is that clean enough?=)

Open your car windows my Monte makes a lovely growl, but I would not want to hear it all the time.

Change engine oil and filter very regularly. Make sure the cooling system (thermostat and engine temp sensor) and radiator fan (both speeds) are in full working order. Fix any coolant leaks (radiator thermoswitch likely). Buy a handheld scan tool that can read Skoda/VW fault codes. Buy a spare coilpack and practice changing them so you can do it easily at roadside. Carry scan tool and spare coilpack in the glovebox. Check spark plugs condition and gaps, and replace air filter with a new genuine one unless it looks new already (from both sides). Check brake servo vacuum hose for crack damage at the one-way valve over to the right of the firewall (as seen looking into engine bay from front bumper). Check PCV valve output hose connection at each end of the 'loop' for looseness/leaks/perishing. Repair as required. For daily driver reliability, that would be my plan. For performance increase, probably best to spend your money on good tyres and fixing any braking or suspension faults rather than trying to get more out of the engine; that's just likely to kill it faster. No more power is available above about 4400rpm on the 6-valve 1.2, so looking for it beyond there is futile.

Furry dice, leopardskin steering wheel cover, Lexus tail lights... Seriously those cars are anaemic and the engines can develop serious problems with valves and the timing chain which if put into a garage are horribly expensive to put right. I doubt there's any point in trying to remap it so really the only mod I could suggest is a K/N air filter but I can't see it making much difference. Regular servicing and no supermarket petrol might prolong it's life but no speed no power no women if you're trying to pull in it either!

Soooo here we go, it’s on. that’s Day 1 done. More fun tomorrow.

I can say my 1.2 Tsi (105) runs sweetly. Regular oil changes, bit OTT here I change at around 5-6k miles, that's all I do per annum. Agree the Rapid , for me it's the Toledo flavour, ticks all the boxes. Into 6 year ownership now, I've looked at many cars/mini SUV types and can't really find anything that could be better to change to for bangs for bucks like this one. Couple that with cheap for me insurance, running costs and £30 VED what's not to like.

Mine did some sort of update a day or so ago but still has the problem. The only thing that appears to have changed is that, when I select units for speed, it seems to select both kph / mph (though neither change on the dash). There's still no effect when I try to change from km to miles. Looking at the System Info, my details are: Part Number 5E3035816 Hardware H56 Software 1668 Display unit H/W H44 Display unit S/W 2088

You did not read my post carefully. I'm on about the SIZE designation 225/40YR18. I asked why this number has a Y in the middle. The previous explanation covered a Z.