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Just joined the 280 club today, picking up just before Xmas. Rather excited, have been sniffing around them for some and suddenly saw this online this morning, Had only just been dropped off by the last owner so not valeted or anything yet. Think I got her for a really good price so very happy. SEL spec with 19"s. Nice and subtle.

Hi all, Needing more space, yesterday I part exchanged my Karoq 4x4 SE-L for a 2021 Superb Estate which should be delivered around March. I went with a SE-L in Black Magic in 4x4 200 2.0TDI DSG guise with rear parking camera, tow bar, spare wheel and lane assist. Is there is anything I should be looking out for? Thanks Andy

Try this link. Torque figs here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6mvh3pqryshv3rp/AAAYSoCsp-vVWz-h4ko4QoAha?dl=0

This problem seems to be finally solved All it needed was just a replacement PAS pump... I could not find any problem with steering angle sensor (actually turned out to be Hall-type), so it was either the pump or rack. I ordered a renewed PAS pump from a Polish company, Auto Fun. It cost abt. 220 € inc shipping to Finland and it comes with 2 yr warranty. IMO this was the most feasible solution taking into account the value of the car. The reason I talked about changing both pump and rack was because I recall seeing some information that SMI Koyo parts should be renewed together for some reason (maybe €€€...?) Of course I had to disassemble the old PAS pump, and actually I found some damaged sealings at the gear pump located in the unit. It sounds logical that there was an internal pressure leak between intake and outlet of the gear pump. There was also some corrosion visible inside the PAS pump, but not very much - looks like electronics are still intact. I mounted the "new" pump, filled the system with fresh PAS fluid, started the engine, did a few lock-to-lock twists and checked the fluid level. Dropped the car on its wheels and went for a test ride - worked like a charm from the first moment! Thanks to all or your comments and help!

Possibly item 22 on here?... https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2006-453/9/903-903055/

Rusty looks so good on track! And in great company. Photos by https://www.instagram.com/haydouken/ Hope he doesn't mind me lifting the shadows slightly to bring out the rear end details on Rusty!

Can't believe the latest 245 Octavia weighs 1,525kg the cost of technology. It won't be as economical as my old 2017 version carrying the extra 155kg around all the time. It even weighs more than my current Superb diesel.

This problem of manuals describing features you don't have exists with every car manual I have ever seen. Car manufacturers only print one version of the manual for all the variants of each model. But have Skoda really stopped including a paper manual or has the previous owner just failed pass it on?

After purchasing my Skoda Octavia VRS WRC No. 100/100 I found that information on them in general is quite hard to find. Briskoda does have the most information I have found, but it has been spread over several pages an there is no real single page to compile these, so I am trying to get it all here on one page...as well as try and find answers to questions I have too. In order to complete this labour of love, I may have used certain cars numbers as examples. If you own these cars, and take objection to with me mentioning your number...please let me or a mod know and I will have the text edited. Hopefully you will see what I am trying to do here and help me out! So...what we do know; The WRC Skoda was released to the public in 2002, to celebrate 100 years of Skoda in motorsport. Only 100 were sold, of which 75 were LHD and 25 were RHD which were released to the UK at an original selling price of around £20700 (approximately £5000 more than a standard car) although many were sold at a lower discounted price as the asking price was considered too steep by some. It has been referred to as "Skoda Octavia VRS WRC", "Skoda Octavia Rally" and the "Skoda Octavia VRS Limited Edition". As per the normal VRS, it is also officially known as a "RS" outside of the UK, due to Ford having the "RS" name rights in the UK. At the time of writing, Briskodas WRC registry has been able to locate 30 of the 100 prodcued, of which 22 are RHD, leaving 3 RHD unaccounted for. Out of the 25 issued to the UK, number 89 was stolen and burnt out, and number 66 lives in Spain. This leaves a maximum of 23 *driving* cars in the UK, 20 of which are known. Number 1 resides in Germany, number 100 in the UK. This actually makes it one of the rarest VAG production cars available to the general public, especially when compared to such limited edtions as the 2002 Golf IV Anniversary which was limited to 1800 examples purely for the UK market. The latest car to be found is number 72, which resides in Portsmouth, UK. The 25 cars issued to the UK were registered on 02/52/03 plates, and the date of registry did not reflect the specific cars build number, for example although mine was the last made number 100, it was registered on a "52" plate, whereas number 12 is on a "03" plate. The bulid numbers and country of issue appear to be random, for example the UK did not recieve a batch of 25 ranging from 75 to 100, instead the UK plays host to 25 cars ranging from number 12 to 100. 12 being the lowest number found in the UK so far. The cars were standard in every respect except the following features which were above and beyond a standard production Octavia VRS of that time; - WRC replica graphics celebrating 100 years of motorsport. - Exterior paint in "Candy White". - Build number badge on dashboard, located above central air vents. Format: ***/***. - Xenon Headlights with washers. - Front Side Seat Airbags. - ESP. - VRS front door kickplates. - Rear Mudflaps. - "B Pillar covers in black (included in exterior graphics, but actually a seperate OEM part). - Heated Front Seats. - Side rubbing strips deleted. - White 17" Spyder alloys. - CD player and 6 CD Changer. - Cargo net. At the time of its build, the WRC had many options, such as Xenons and ESP that were not available to be specified on a Standard Octavia VRS, although that soon changed and those items just became a regular option on later Ocativa VRS's (Late 03 onward). The promotional car, built prior to the car being released to the general public had bigger brakes, silver 17" spyder alloys, grey headling, no rear wash wipe, rear parking sensors and a sunroof. Many of the cars no longer have their exterior graphics, now being just plain white, number 100 is an example of this, whereas number 84 still has its full graphics. Dealers sometimes removed the graphics in order to make selling them easier as they were deemed to be a bit too much for some buyers, as happened to number 51. The usual documentation (handbook) supplied with the car, and the V5 make no reference to the vehicle being a WRC or Limited edition. Some of the cars have been modified tastefully, number 73 now sports 19" white alloys and a replica WRC rear spoiler. There were minor differences between the models, depending on market or build date etc, for example number 73 has Grey headlining, whereas number 100 had black headlining. It has been reported that some were made without a rear wash wipe, and others apparently came with black carpet or alarms with internal sensors although I have yet to find an exact car number with these variants. It is common to find WRC's with dealer fit front arm rests. The car has been rumoured to "Handle" differently, but those who have checked the part numbers for suspension etc, have found them to be identical to the Standard VRS. The WRC is commonly confused with a Police Spec VRS, however the exterior "Candy White" paint is all they actually share. Problems specific to the WRC are few, it has been known for the build number badge to fall from the dash due to the glue giving up, and the white spyder wheels are very hard to keep clean, and original paint wheels are now looking a little worse for wear on some cars which is not bad considering it is a 7 year old car! Valuing the car today is hard, as no specific price guide exists due to its very limited production run, but looking at the ones that have been for sale recently, they tend to be advertised £1000 - £2000 more than a Octavia VRS of similar age/mileage. The Skoda Octavia WRC is a modern classic, and future collectors car considering it was a rare version of the car that put Skoda back on the map in the public sector, the Skoda Octavia VRS Mk1. Thats about everything I can think of at the moment, hopefully this article will help people who desire to know more about this very special car. I am looking for any original promotional material for this car, in particular any press material or original spec sheet. Does anyone have a hard copy they could scan in, or alternatively a link to online documents? Does anyone know how you originally placed an order for these cars? Could you order one, or were they sent to dealers to sell from the forecourt? If anyone can see any errors, or has something to add, please do so....although I am trying to keep this article as factual as possible so please bear this in mind when posting. Mods:If this article could be made into a sticky, I would really appriciate it as I think it would help alot of people. I have not added this information to the registry so as not to hi-jack. Regards, Mike.

No, for a higher sidewall you need to switch to smaller rims as the outer diameter of the wheel has to remain as designed (or very close to it). I bought 16" rims for winter and ride is fabulous while still great on the original 17" in summer.

Hi Lambda Sensor fits SKODA FABIA NJ5 1.2 Post Cat 2014 on Oxygen Bosch 04E906262BJ is the one I used and works fine - no warning light and no fault codes, search eBay for genuine Bosch 04E906262BJ there's plenty on there. Lambda Oxygen Sensor Socket 22mm x 100mm 1/2" Drive Cr-v Steel - this is the removal tool I used (eBay item number:252517659149) but again stacks available. Hope this helps Simon

Thanks a Mill for the replies lads. I phoned Balance Motorsport and the lad there was more than helpful - He has the same trouble with Bilstein - One customer waited 15 months for a suspension for a 911 Porsche .... He said he will get on the ball on Monday and see who has what as there is no point in looking for sommit that turns ot to be unavailable !! At least now I have reputable names to work off and if I get sommit that you lads suggested and he has Im going for it ..!! I have all the bushes, drop links, track rod ends, full wishbones even a Whiteline RARB so all ready to go when the suspension comes. Someone once described their 2.0 Fabia after a full B12 Suspension and all the above bits as being like "A Tarmac Rally Car" ... I just cant think for the life of me who that person was

Short story: 235/45R17 fits nicely on my stock suspension Octavia 1.8T. Also looks nice and aggresive on Avus Audi S3 17" rims (wider and more offset than stock 17" spyder rims), my intention of keeping the car as a sleeper just went down the drain. Before/after pics below. Long story: So after running around the whole year incognito mode, steel 15" rims 195/65R15 w/o hubcaps, enjoying myself, and faces of unsuspecting BMW drivers - I've done the famous AUM stage 1 remap to 210 hp after which the tyres can't handle the acceleration in first two gears, and made the car almost impossible to accelerate/drive when raining so I had to do something about the grip. The idea was to get ANY cheapo/trash/dank - undamaged 17" rim to fit the standard 225/45R17, I really wanted some Fe rims (again, incognito-sleeper style), but they don't exist in 57,1 5x100 dimensions (there is a 5x100 17" steel rim, but it's for some huge Renault, and I think it's only for the spare wheel, making the rim witdh in range of lol-J). There is a lot to choose in 16" region, but 205 is just too small for the power the car makes, IMHO. I even looked into 215 combinations in 16" and not only there is no performance tyre in this dimension, it's ridiculously expensive. Mind you, I'm running standard setup on all four corners - Bilstein B4 shocks, Bilstein OEM springs - no lowering, I was a click away to order the heightened springs!! I'm never going to be a style-slave, laughing while just casually cruising over speedbumps whereas dropped GTI's/Type-R's/RS's have to do the diagonal idle+clutch maneuvers I also fancied the idea of fitting larger tyres on it, 235/45R17, my flow of thought was the following, pros/cons: + more grip ofcourse + more offset/scrub radius - more initial turn-in, responsiveness on the steering wheel + more accurate speedo + keeping comfort (decent sidewall) + less wear + overall height of car increased, again more comfort + tyre "attack angle" smaller, making it easier to run over obstacles (eg. curbs, speed-bumps), again, even more comfort (you probably noticed a pattern, I'm anti-style oriented, pro-sleeper/comfort style :)) + visually I always liked seeing fat-meaty tyres in the back + only slightly more expensive than 225/45R17 - very little experience on Octavia mk1 + that tyre combo, some say it fit's others say it doesn't - much heavier - slower acceleration - possible rubbing - worse fuel consumption (it's LPG-ed and it's dirt cheap here in Croatia) Anyway, I managed to snatch a great deal on original 17" Audi S3 "Avus" Alu rims (made by Ronal, Made in Germany), bonus points: they are 6 mm more offset and 0.5J wider than standard rims 17" Spyders, making way for wider tyre! All the calculations point to no rubbing with 235/45R17 ( https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=195-65-15X6ET38&wheel2=235-45-17X7.5ET32&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mm left is my standard setup, right is Avus). But a real life test is needed, I don't want to risk spending €€€'s and putting new summer 235's just to find out they don't fit/rub! So I also managed to snatch winter tyres dirt cheap (almost free), Hankook Winter iCept 235/45R17 DOT2016 halfway worn - perfect for testing out the setup - if it fits, great, if it doesn't I spent a few hours and a few bucks demistifying it. Putting on just the rim on the car was a shock, when lifted, viusally seems like ~2 cm more than outline of car, ouch - on the inside though, quite a lot of space; the guys at the wheel shop rolled they eyes constantly We fitted the tyre rim combo, dropped the car, did a run around the lot full lock..... Purrrrfect, no rubbing, and when car is sitting on it's own it's just right, slightly out of car outline, this will be a slight pain to homologate tho. Inital impressions after a few runs: +/- wheels are a stunner, so much for my incognito/sleeper preferences, honestly, looks much more aggressive than the RS... I guess I'll deal with it. + very soft and controlled wheelhop, car doesn't want to break apart when you loose grip + comfortable + better turn-in, much less wobbly car - awfully heavy, steel rims+tyre 16.6 kg, alu rims+tyre 22.4 kg, ouch, you can see the pictures below, but I'll write up for any google search guys to stumble upon this, I find it invaluable info: - 235/45R17 Hankook Winter iCept 1/2 worn: 10.5 kg - Audi S3 Ronal Alu 17" rims: 11.7 kg - 17" above tyre+rim combo: 22.4 kg - 15" stock steel rim + 195/65R15 Pirelli P7 combo: 16.6 kg - noticeably "slower", feeling is the inital throttle response is much lazier, not so agressive as on 15"; can't really blame it, the car couldn't even accelerate before Didn't try the twisties yet, but the idea is to run around a few weeks and notice how the car behaves and if there will be no rubbing in spring get the Goodyears F1 Assy 5 in 235/45R17. @Madket

Substantial development this week, it's now got an MOT, tax and insurance so I can start driving it around I've done about 120 miles with it over the weekend and it's seemed to have behaved itself apart from one moment where that misfire made an appearance for about 5 seconds. I'm leaning towards an electrical connection somewhere that's causing it but like with all intermittent problems, it'll be hard to pin point as most of the time it works with no issue. New turbo is all working fine and it delivers substantial boost. I'm not sure how accurate my boost gauge is but it does seem to show and hold quite a lot of boost if you floor it from low revs so I'm tending to keep it higher up the rev range if I want to push on with it. It is properly quick though and doesn't need much throttle input to build up pace on the road. I took the woman out in it last night and a full on, everything it's got, launch from a standstill made her tummy feel funny apparently The amount of grip it has with all four wheels digging in is quite impressive. In other news, I managed to find a good condition bonnet, in the correct Avus silver, on ebay yesterday so it now has one decent panel to admire. Just need to aquire a drivers door, wing and probably a boot lid, sort the roof out and then it might not look quite so shabby chic.

I'd set them to 12 and 16 thou cold, inlet and exhaust, then let the lifters settle once running, the lifters are designed to take up the lash, they can't force the valve open unless the rockers are too tight.

The different 1.4 TSI's mentioned here have nothing to do with the 150 ps mentioned for the YETI. No issuse. Then there never was a 'double turbo'. 1.4TSI. There were Twin Chargers / Dual Chargers, which have a Turbo & a Supercharger and were in various VW Group Vehicles globally but only in Skoda in the form of the Mk2 Fabia vRS.

MinkyMike. That means they were fully compressed, trying to start an engine with no valve clearances and the valves held open slightly is suicidal, follow my procedure, it will be rattly for a while & then the noise will go as they pump up.

I used 1K0 941 274 C on a MY12 Octavia. Given it's a easy to see part, I'd suggest checking it for damage and the part number before buying a replacement.

Many thanks for this. I got one and it fits well. JUst a trim down the sides. A real bargain

Not driving it anywhere come to that seldom drive it anywhere less than 2000 miles between last 2 MOTs, breakers yard that cater quite a bit for skoda about 15 minutes from me I bought an ESP sensor of them a while back fitted and working fine unfortunately closed today but no matter will have plenty of time tomorrow. Fitting light unit easier than fitting drivers window I'm 100% certain. Price for light unit £30 or less on Ebay worst case.

A Kodiaq has a service interval of once a year only if it has been put on a Fixed Service interval of 372 days 15,000 km, otherwise on variable it is @24 months or the distance. 18,000 - 20,000 miles. Or whatever in km.

I have but it’s only possible with the Columbus. Otherwise you can add a sub via line out from the rear speaker loom.

Well as luck I suppose if there is any in this situation the key was in the boot near the tailgate so we went this route,we concluded fitting a tail light was easier than fitting a window

Because once they bleed out to where they need to be they stay like that. That's how they're designed. They will only fill with more oil if they need to when in normal use to take up clearance from wear etc. That's how they self-adjust.

Reveal is first half next year with deliveries commencing around Q3. Not all too much info, however available Matrix LED headlights and a new rear light cluster with dynamic indicators are a given. Also looks like the RS will be getting a more beskoke front bumper. As with any spy shots waiting for @e-Roottoot to chime in saying not to believe any spy shots or whatever.

Just a post with a fixed problem for information. I had a non starting 2007 Skoda Octavia Estate Scout 2.0TDI PD. No engine management light, no coil light, no DPF light illuminating, all other lights illuminating such as abs, airbag etc when they should, engine just cranking over. I plugged it in through OBD using snap on solus pro. No communication with ECM under engine management. I checked other modules such as abs, airbag, they all stated no comms with ecm. There is a relay in fuse box under bonnet with 370 on it, only relay under there. This was clicking as it should. I pulled it out and put a wire across where the switched side of relay would be and problem solved so swapped relay and now fixed. I also checked the energising side of where relay would be (12v). So be warned a relay can still appear ok by clicking but not necessarily be ok. Hope this helps if anyone else has the same problem.

interesting. I'll be checking in to see how this develops as it's good to see someone's project from start to finish. Are you doing the work yourself?

No, the whole lot was replaced new bump stops everything, top mounts to. I'm ruling out a direct suspension noise as when standing on my tow bar and bouncing up and down you can't here the noise. It's only when the passenger wheel goes over uneven ground or bumps in the road. The noise seems to occur when the suspension is rebounding not compressing. Both sides had the same replacement parts but bear in mind the noise was just starting before I changed the dampers and top mounts.

Brilliant, I run out of time today had to go to work but they are all left set at the moment , will see if it starts tomorrow (hoping they will all bleed in the night, also I wait 30 mins and more between doing each so fingers crossed) if it doesn't I'll start a fresh again . Thanks 👍

@SashaGrace has done something similar and added the centre + sub. Pretty sure you need to add the wiring, recode the headunit and have a dataset uploaded to enable the extra channels. At least assuming your headunit is suitable

I don't think the trim levels make a difference to the boot look part numbers. When I bought mine there were 2 available but Skoda were able to tell me the correct part number for my car. Good luck hope you get it all sorted

Well after 2 years we finally won our case through the motoring ombudsman against my Skoda dealer.Originally I had a strange rattle on startup .l took the car into the garage twice worried it was the cam chain tensioner.l was told they were not concerned only for the tensioner to fail a month later .l had to pay.for a new engine but paid under protest.l the took the garage on through the motoring ombudsman giving them as much evidence as l could with reference to me telling the garage what l thought the problem was and loads of articles,utube videos and VW technicle bullitens. After two years the Ombudsman have found in my favour and the garage reluctantly have had to refund me for the cost of the new engine.It was a long slog but l got there eventually.

..can't comment on the 170hp, but I currently have a 1.4 (150) tsi and it's a brilliant engine. Previous to this I had the 1.4 122 hp engine in an Octavia, and prior to that I had a 2.0ltr diesel Octavia. Both 1.4 engines are a "peach", plenty of power and torque, and very similar in "feel" to my previous 2.0ltr diesel. My current 1.4tsi seems to perform really well with plenty of torque and is also very quiet compared to the diesel. (Also returns over 40mpg if driven carefully, (AWD)). In short I would have no hesitation in recommending the 1.4Tsi....only problem is finding one? I struggled when I was looking.....

There is actually a small intercooler attached below the main radiator, however this is to cool the coolant which flows through the charge cooler.

I used H&R springs and some Sport Tec (I’m think that’s what they are called) from Orange Tuning in Germany. Landed in NZ the shocks were $398NZD for the set. Great set up on NZ roads, which aren’t exactly flat. iv e used this setup for last 5yrs or so and never needed/wanted to change. Even done some track days on them.

I have this problem. Had injector changed amd started juddering under boost in 2nd 3rd and so on. Deffo will be getting a new filter tomorrow and trying that 👌🏾

That's because Skoda improves its brand image !... We also have a "silver arrow" on the front bonnet... OK, with a feather on top of it...

@tibiking - on a FL MK2 Octavia, there are three control modules for AFS: - The AFS master is behind the climate control panel inside the car - Each headlight also has an AFS slave (black thing) and xenon ballast (silver thing) attached to it

True about the better than £5k but still cars must be designed to last a lot longer than that surely. It's a 7 Speed one

It sounds like it. you need to look at the loom where it exits the door frame and passes through the rubber hose. That will tell you whether or not the wiring is split. That where mine was split. Not an easy job that bit. There are loads of videos on line to assist this. But you probably know that anyway. Good luck.

Also When I taught my daughter to drive, I advised that when pulling up at a junction, never have the front wheels turned and pointing at the junction, always leave them straight ahead until ready to turn, Why?, because if you are hit from behind you don't get pushed in to the path of oncoming traffic.

You can lock the gearbox in park if there is too much pressure on the pin and forcing it to release can damage the cable. So use the handrake to hold *before* putting it in park.

Another pic from up in the hills. We had about 6 inches of snow over the w/end but it’s mostly now puddles with a little still piled up at the side of the road. Still some white stuff up in the Cairngorms though. Loving Petrol Blue in its Dark and Moody mode.

During the summer heatwave in 2019 I adjusted my tyre pressures to be correct as the hear had made them all increase. When the heatwave came to an end we got about 8 miles from home when the TPMS warning came on so we pulled over and on checking the pressures ALL FOUR tyres were between 2 and 2.5PSI low, so I pumped them up and reset the TPMS. Passive TPMS software has come a long way from just comparing rotational speed only, it also takes into account underlying frequency patterns by doing a Fourier analysis of the patterns from the wheel speed sensors.

It compares the rotation speed of each wheel so if some tyres are loosing pressures more than others, it should trigger a warning. It can't detect when all four wheels loose pressure at the same rate but that's what your monthly/weekly checks are for

First I don't have a TDI engine in either of our cars, or a Skoda, but, it does seem that 2 versions at least, of these tanks with silicate enclosures in them were used, the original ones had the "tea bags" that could it seems burst, the later ones had a proper enclosure within the structure of the tank and it seems that they were robust enough. It seems that some coolants, maybe only G13 needed these "silicate booster packs" in them to allow for extended protection to the aluminium parts, VW Group's latest factory fill coolant is now G12Evo and these tanks with "Mit Silikat" are no longer fitted to new cars at any VW Group factories. Tanks changed in maybe 01/01/19 and the coolant was changed to G12Evo in 01/0820 - so why the difference in dates if this silicate boosting pack was only needed for G13? For me, VW Group should have made good strong and sound details about these changes available to at least some serious motoring publications as it stands it all sounds a bit like smoke and mirrors being handed out when these questions are being asked. Cars fitted with Mit Silikat tanks can end up with partially choked heater cores, and need to hand over £1000 to get the systems flushed out, heater core and header tank replaced and new coolant added, not clever and it seems money taken without any embarrassment ! Also for 2.0TDI engines built over a certain period in time, there is the possibility of ending up with the same heater core choking, but this time being due to casting sand being left in the engine castings, and with time it can move around the cooling systems and settle down in the heater core - same sort of price to repair! Both well documented VW Group design and manufacturing defects so not wear and tear and not user's fault!

@maxychatmy one costed me £49 and does the same job. And there was no need to chop the original center part in order to fit it. Its not as sturdy as the OEM armrest although it's supporting my arm quite well as I'm not a big bloke. 😂

@maxychat & @freemansteve My Citigo is a 60BHP variant, so there isnt much power coming out from this little car. My daily commute is a 70 miles round trip. With a CCS set to true 52MPH (54 on car's speedometer) the average fuel consupmtion is approx 75-78MPG. I can push up to 430-450 miles between fill-ups. Adding CCS had greatly improved my MPG's. Silly me, even if I drive localy I would still use CCS 😎 IMHO this mod is the best thing I could've add to my car!

Regenerative brakes have been around for a long time in trains and earth movers. They used resistors to burn off the electricity generated so easy to address. Regen is fine at higher speeds but doesn't work well at low speeds. Worked on a mine in SA where they had coal haulers with all up weight of 360 tons, the friction brake could only be used below 5 kph or they burned out. While I was there the regen brake failed on a loaded coal hauler, it took a couple of miles for it to stop. Not something you want to happen in a car.