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I’ve never had any problems of windows misting with ac on and auto selected on my current Kodiaq, previous 2 Yetis and Octavia. As to the DSG once you master feathering the brake pedal, you have as much control over the stop/start as you have in a manual. ie if you stomp on the brake the car will stop and engine stop. Its also worth noting if you twitch the steering wheel when the traffic in front moves or you see a space the engine will re start.

Part 1 tonight @ 8-9pm after On the road @7pm

Replaced the standard wiper blades with the twin aero , really a huge difference. Noise is completely gone! a big thank you for every one contributed!

Heres a name drop....I was working on that race and actually stood on the grid just before the start I remember seeing the used tyres piled up behind the pits steaming in the rain. Wish I had a camera with me at the time. Amazing day and I got paid for being there, double win I nearly broke Alain Prosts nose cone (his cars), but that's another story

Speaking personally I find SPOTY not worth watching any more, and the silly business with Tyson Fury has just added to that impression. That doesn't in any way reduce the massive respect I have for the achievement of Lewis Hamilton in passing the records of Michael Schumacher (sorry I cannot respect Schumacher for the way his need to win drove him to cheat), that Lewis achieved this all within the rules make it even more impressive. I would have loved to see Lewis race against Ayrton Senna, I will never forget watching his amazing driving skill in the wet at Donington Park in 1993 where he made all the other F1 drivers look like learners IMHO.

workshop removal........

It really is strange all these vehicles with DSG's around that are so slow to start from Stop / Start having turned the engine off. In the different VW Goup DSG's both petrol & diesel and different engine sizes i have driven over 10 years i have never experienced a slow start. But then when stopped and getting ready to move off i already have the engine re-started by touching the accelerator, or turning the steering wheel. I never have tried to accelerate from a junction with the engine not running.

From what I understand, the WLTP certification requires the car reset to 'normal' so this functionally it built in to the CAN gateway software from around MY19 (3Q0 907 530 AA and newer). Unless someone is able to modify the CAN gateway software, I don't think it'll be possible to disable it on a MY21. You could try an older CAN gateway but that may cause issues with other modules :(

Many years ago when we used to get regular winter snows we put cardboard down the front of the radiator. Might be worth a try to see if its worth getting a muff. Just keep an eye on engine temperature.

Yes, A/C drops water from the evaporator drain pipe.

Guys, just in case its of any use to anyone that hasn't seen this in my project thread, I thought Id drop a copy in here also.... So, now an interesting development and the first negative of my Yeti ownership experience in the three and a half years I've had her. Ive often read that people have had issues with their panoramic sunroofs leaking into the foot wells of the car. However, ive never had an issue with water ingress and Ive even tried to make it leak in the past (being in warranty then!) with the use of a hose! The car has also been parked up in absolutely torrential storms in the last coupe of years (one was so bad that it almost trapped us in Altea, Spain by causing multiple landslides across the mountain roads below where we were staying!) But whatever conditions we've hit, the cabin has always remained 100% watertight. Therefore, you could probably guess how surprised I was to go to the car recently and see a few drips down the inside of the passenger foot well below the A-pillar. Admittedly, the rain over night was probably the longest and hardest we'd seen in years in the UK but I was surprised none the less! I removed a couple of internal panels to see if I could work out exactly where it was coming in. First I removed the dashboard passenger side end panel - I found a series of drips running down from above so that meant I had to remove the passenger side A pillar trim, higher up. This now gave me a clear look at the passenger side sunroof drain (in red) and the surrounding area. The drips were coming from higher up but I wanted to spend some time trying various methods of clearing any blockage before removing any more internal panels.... I tried different methods of clearing any blockage but I was concerned I could possibly cause more issue if I caught the rubber drainage duct internally with something too hard or from just being too aggressive. It was clear that there was certainly dirt and gunk built up inside the channels BUT when I poured water into the sunroof surround to test, most of it was appearing fairly quickly at the external drainage hole (the hole by the door hinge). Even though most was coming straight through and into the outside world.... there was still some dripping freely down the A pillar, internally into the cabin. So I carried on looking further up towards the roof... What I saw (and really didn't like) was the use of black cable ties directly onto the flexible rubber drainage pipe. The one at the top of the A-pillar appeared to have been done too tightly from the factory. Ive pulled the drainage channel down very slightly in the above photo so you can see the mark it had made. It was squeezing the rubber drain tight and restricting its flow by probably 30%. So, was this the problem? Well it certainly wasn't helping but the actual problem could be found still further up towards the sunroof surround... Having removed the rubber door sill slightly as well as the passenger interior grab handle and sunvisors from the roofs interior, I could just see up into the void between the interior roof skin and the sunroof surround. It looked as though the white connector on the end of the red drain channel was the part actually leaking. To me, it felt as though it had too much movement on the end of the black sunroof drain channel connector. So at this point I decided Id done enough investigating and hatched a proper plan to resolve not only this specific issue but to also ensure I wouldn't have the issue in the future... from either this or one of the other three sunroof drainage outlets. Over the course of the next three evenings I stripped the interior roof skin out so I had full and unhindered access to all four of the drainage outlets. Once done, how much effort did it take to see if my gut feeling was correct? Very little is the answer, the drainage pipe came away from the black connector far too easily for my liking. My plan: Remove each of the drainage outlets from the four corners of the sunroof frame surround. Clear out the drains properly by use of compressed air and cleaning agents that were kind to the rubber. Reattach the drain connectors with a specific waterproof sealer and adhesive. Cable tie the connectors to ensure a 100% watertight refit. Fully test for water tightness before refitting the internal trim panels. Just clearing out the drainage channels made a massive difference in how quickly water emptied from the sunroof surround to the ground via the four drainage point (front two by the door hinges, rear two out the back by the top of the tailgate). After my second evening, I ended up with this... Four connectors, all with waterproof sealant internally (very carefully done to ensure that none made its way to anywhere near the actual inside of the red drain pipe) as well as externally at the top of the white connector to the black sunroof frame surround and lower down on the underside of the white connector where it met with the red drainage pipe. Then I put a cable tie in place to ensure it was clamped tight. I wasn't taking any chances and wanted to do a proper job to save me any further issues in the future. Result: Problem cured and unlikely to happen again due to it being a better solution than the factory did imo and everything back together perfectly with no evidence of water ingress issues - mainly due to catching it quickly and resolving it within a couple of days. I can only assume that the heat and cold must loosen the connection between the hard plastic sunroof surround and the slightly softer plastic white connector over time. Trust it to finally 'let go' six months out of warranty but I'm happy with the fix.

Thought I would share my intial impressions of my February 2020 FL Superb Hatchback which is my first diesel since early 2015 when I had a Vrs TDi DSG Octavia with the 184PS engine. Previously I have owned a 2005 Superb Elegance Auto with the 1.9TDi 130PS engine, then a 140PS manual SE 2009 MK2 hatchback (twin door) followed in 2012 by the same engine/gearbox but in an Elegance hatchback. Then I had a FL 2014 Elegance 140PS manual hatchback which was just £30 VED thanks to 119gm/km co2. My first MK3 Superb was a 2016 hatchback in white SE 1.4tsi manual which I ran for 16 months and 16,000 miles which I bought new in April 2016 with a few extras including privacy glass, SAT NAV and CANTON sound system. Didn't really take it on any long trips just commuting yet it averaged about 50mpg from the quiet petrol engine with a best tank of 800 miles which was excellent. Next up after 29,000 miles at 40mpg in an Octavia Vrs245 manual bought new in August 2017 was a March 2019 DSG Sportline Plus 272 hatch in black bought in late December 2019 in which I covered 9,000 miles but the spec was quite basic and although very fast and secure it still managed to a very good 40mpg average and was used on a long trip to Newquay and Weston Super Mare back in September 2020 when it covered 574 miles with 145 miles left in the tank when we got home (total range 719 miles). Brilliant though the 272 was it would egg you on to use the 4WD grip and accelerate hard out of roundabouts to very silly speeds very quickly indeed particulary after the AmD stage 1 remap giving 360bhp and 514nm. I could see me losing either my licence or worse my life in a huge crash so it had to go and I fancied the FL version but with more modest power outputs so a good spec was essential and I found this at my local Leicester Skoda dealer and it ticked all the boxes I was looking for including the very handy electric tailgate, rear reversing camera, blind spot mirror lights, virtual dash and CANTON sound upgrade plus the bonus of a 205 spare tyre/wheel. In standard Energy Blue I even liked the free colour on first viewing. Other highlights on the SEL model are the black leather seats, heated front seats, electric drivers seat, folding mirrors with puddle lights, dynamic rear LED indicators and front LED fog lights plus the amazing Matrix LED headlights which are incredibly bright and even better than the LED lights on the Vrs245. Although I have had the car almost 8 weeks now it has sat in the drive for 4 weeks due to our 2 week holiday to Cyprus in late October followed by another 2 weeks at home under quarantine even though we didn't have Covid 19. Despite that having filled the tank with 55 litres of diesel (£60) on October 17th I have yet to put anymore fuel in it so after driving 765 miles so far and taking it past 7,000 miles now there is still an indicated 185 miles range left in the tank. The maxidot since refuelling screen suggests 66mpg average but I will calculate when I fill up this Sunday to be certain. Driving impressions are very good with the smooth 7 speed DSG box giving just 1,600rpm at 70mph making it hushed together with the quiet Continental 235/45R18 tyres which with the standard suspension give a lovely motorway ride. I have noticed when it was 0C outside that economy drops to between 58 to 64mpg but when it is only 5C outside I can still manage to get almost 70mpg. Solely used for 30 commutes of 27 miles so far the best going to work was 78.5mpg which matches the best Skoda claim for this car and it achieves really low 103gm/km co2 on the old testing cycle which makes it the most economical Skoda I have owned over 17 years with the brand beating the 109gm/km 2010 Fabia 1.6TDi estate and my 2013 Octavia SE 2.0TDi with 106gm/km.

I've only just got my VRS TSI and its the first skoda i've owned. When you finish your journey the screen gives you a rundown of data for the Journey. A very slow journey around town in eco mode with no traffic the computer is saying i'm only getting 24-25 mpg. Is this accurate? I was expecting a lot more.

Then it's not the same on our cars, when i removed the wheel arch there was nothing in the way at all just open space around it.

Found this in the document about AUA/AUB 1.4 engines: Pressure balancing function, apparently.

You should download the workshop manuals for your car from: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do Failing that, it'll probably be in a similar location to the MK7 Golf: - http://www.vwgolf.org/overview_of_fitting_locations_v_control_units_front_of_lhd_vehicles-2675.html - http://www.vwgolf.org/removing_and_installing_headlight_range_control_unit_j431_control_unit_for_cornering_light_and_headlight_range_control_j745_lhd_vehicles-2596.html The error code you posted is pointing at the front level sensor... I thought that was pretty clear from the description: Left front level control system sensor Open circuit/short circuit to B+

That looks like the suspension level sensor and it's wiring are are fault, not the AFS module. I'd start by inspecting the level sensor on the front left suspension and it's wiring for damage

This is a good read and I'm interested to see what's next.

Was going to ask when the map is coming. I reckon you'll change your mind by the end of 2021!

Up in the Heelands, Grantown on Spey to be specific. I’ve had mine on since end Sept, I like to fit them a little early as it’s easier to fit when you can feel your fingers. Mind you, got the garage that fitted the tyres to swap the wheels but did SWMBO’s Jazz on the drive.

I do a 12 miles journey to work but with air / ground temperatures rarely getting to / below 0 C. ( so far this year. I have seen -15 C down here from the weather station outside my property previously . ) Before fitting the cover the oil Temp would reach low to mid 80's by the end of this journey. It now reaches low to mid 90's. I have the oil Temp as the default display on the car's MFD. The oil will now hit 50 C within 3-4 miles from starting. I don't let the engine warm before I start my journey. The made up cover only partially covers the lower grill, not any of the upper grill. On my car the main engine radiator is behind the upper grill. There is a water intercooler for the air intake below this. There is no divider between the two grills after the inner bumper. Thanks, AG Falco

@JBD1974, that's the later frameless mirror. The earlier mirrors had a button underneath like @Warrior193 mentioned above. Plan A sounds like your option here I'm afraid!

Now what I would like is a way for the car to remember the driving mode you last selected, rather than reverting to the default Normal mode! Chris

I asked about it on Twitter and got this reply from Škoda Hi, we apologise about this issue. It is something we are aware of and it has been raised with the relevant teams who are working to resolve it. So hopefully it will be sorted allowing us to do updates.

Bit of an update! I'm off the pick up new bolts today for the suspension components as I fear everything else is going to be seized or cross threaded so potentially break everything. I managed to get one spring in yesterday along with taking a badge off one side.

I am in need of an Ashtray for my Octty 2004 MK1. I tried finding it on multiple sites but couldn't get my hands on it. Does anyone have any links or source through which I can purchase this product (1U2857962) and ship to India?

Every day is a school day here: Taken from a VW forum - As far as I can tell, the only relevant difference between the older G12 Plus Plus and the newer G13 is that G13 is more environmentally friendly because it contains ethanediol (ethylene glycol), 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, glycerol, and some silicates. Performance should be identical. As far as I know, all G12/13 type coolants are Si-OAT coolants. All these coolants come as a concentrate that must be diluted with water. Filtered tap water (free of particles) is fine, unless very hard. If the latter, use distilled water. Distilled water is actually not ideal, because it is more acidic than tap water. However, once distilled water gets heated, it loses its acidity. Demineralized water would be good because it cuts down on scale buildup. Dilution: 40 parts coolant concentrate to 60 parts water is good for frost protection to ca -25°C (-13°F). 50:50 concentrate to water is standard and offers frost protection to ca -35°C (-31°F). Do not use higher than necessary coolant concentration, because it will impede cooling.

That's a really good average! I would have to struggle to get those numbers if even possible. Has Skoda remapped the gaspedal ratio for the new engine or is it like the old engines?

I agree with you about using rivets. At least Rivnuts are a viable option. I would say the trickiest part is drilling out the old rivets and removing the two part, plastic dowels, which hold the glass into the plastic carrier(s). Its one of those jobs which isn't technically difficult, just a bit fiddly, but having the Rivnuts means you can at least remove the regulator panel if needed, which you cannot do if you use normal rivets. Pushing the dowels into carrier can be a challenge, because you need to be careful not to press on the glass too much as you could break off the lower part of the glass which has the hole in it, which will be the weakest point of the glass, due to the hole(s) . Regards Russ

I'm thinking of spraying the rear vrs bumper I've picked up (red) black and black down the sides so it's all black bottomed to the height of the bumper lines all the way around but unsure at the minute. I've been trying to source a set of rear aftermarket lights but not sure they still make the ones I want so for the time being I'll take the tint off tomorrow and put some pinstripes on them

Welcome aboard! I thought you may get pulled for the rear lights. Nice steady build, be good to see that front bumper sprayed too.

I've got a pedal box from Racechip. Went wrong after a year but it was replaced at no cost to me with the latest version. Worth checking them out as it works very well

Luckily they sorted my tire there and then but we're on to more bad news, my coilovers have arrived along with adjustable drop links. Set fronts up, took out bump stops and helper springs and starting working on the car. First bolt snapped clean down the middle so she's off the road for a few days until I can get a bolt and put her back together on the new coilovers. Will update as soon as possible, probably tomorrow knowing me.

We're now up to a month of ownership stage so I decided to treat her to a few more goodies! Tints all around, sunstrip, sharkfin, wiper delete (kill all wipers), private reg with 4D plates and a goodish clean including decluttering the back window

Ordered a cheap drinks holder to go into a single din slot that I forgot about so thought I'd get that in. I also had a vrs gear surrounding arrive in the post which I got on. The DIY retro fit of the drinks holder wasn't great and involved cutting with the Dremel but it's as good as it'll get for the time being. Certainly need a new gear boot as mines minging and definitely the original

Got myself some hub adapters so I can run my wheels without rubbing (15mm at the front and 25mm on the back) They poke a bit for the time being as I expected however I am planning on rolling my front arches and the rear will be slightly cambered

Unfortunately when I bought the wheels thought the offset was et35 but they was actually et45 (et45 8.5j 18") so had to order myself some spacers, for a couple of days she looked like this 😶

It's time to get some wheels and what I thought would look good on her is a set of Rotiform BLQ so that's what I decided to get myself, they come at a price but worth every penny

Bit of a clean and a reflection of my progress at this point as I was about 3 weeks into ownership, I also got ride of the residue that was left on the front bumper from the number plate of the chap I bought it off, from the front doesn't even look like the same car anymore

Not a great photo by any stretch of the imagination but I put some stickers down the back window for the time being along with the matching black and chrome Skoda badge I have on the front

Always liked the yellow headlights that were ran by countries over in Europe so fancied the idea of yellow LED headlights, boy are they bright! Slowly getting through all the bulbs only things that aren't LED are rears lights and indicators.

The rear boot interior lights were brighter than the front which didn't make sense so I got matching LEDs for the front interior as it was starting to bug me, I've also done the door/puddle lights as well but haven't taken photos of them

I noticed that my one of number plate lights had blown and had a spare so swapped it out like for like before deciding to take the jump to putting LEDs in as well as one bulb was lighter than the other as you can see

well done, im claiming an assist on it given i had suggested there wasnt a leak, that it was loss through the over pressure blowing out the expansion

Sadly I have to advise my retirement from Superb ownership and this list as my faithful company car has now been replaced, somewhat later than expected, by a shiny new Octavia. 4 years, 10 months and 1 week with negligible issues, if my company car budget had stretched enough I would have had another in a heartbeat....maybe in 3 years time I'll be back! Below is the last photo of my Superb (I took a lot!), and first of the Octy...

Substantial development this week, it's now got an MOT, tax and insurance so I can start driving it around I've done about 120 miles with it over the weekend and it's seemed to have behaved itself apart from one moment where that misfire made an appearance for about 5 seconds. I'm leaning towards an electrical connection somewhere that's causing it but like with all intermittent problems, it'll be hard to pin point as most of the time it works with no issue. New turbo is all working fine and it delivers substantial boost. I'm not sure how accurate my boost gauge is but it does seem to show and hold quite a lot of boost if you floor it from low revs so I'm tending to keep it higher up the rev range if I want to push on with it. It is properly quick though and doesn't need much throttle input to build up pace on the road. I took the woman out in it last night and a full on, everything it's got, launch from a standstill made her tummy feel funny apparently The amount of grip it has with all four wheels digging in is quite impressive. In other news, I managed to find a good condition bonnet, in the correct Avus silver, on ebay yesterday so it now has one decent panel to admire. Just need to aquire a drivers door, wing and probably a boot lid, sort the roof out and then it might not look quite so shabby chic.

Rusty looks so good on track! And in great company. Photos by https://www.instagram.com/haydouken/ Hope he doesn't mind me lifting the shadows slightly to bring out the rear end details on Rusty!

Finally after 56 days and 838 miles the low fuel red warning bar lit up on the virtual dash with 115 miles left in the tank this morning LOL. Should get over 60 litres in tomorrow morning but won't be using the local BP garage as they charge £1.219 per litre for diesel and the Shell garage is even more expensive. Sainsbury's only 1 mile from exit 21 on the M1 on my way home and 8 weeks ago it was £1.099 per litre so it will save me a few pounds at least. Triple Nectar points coupon received in the post a nice bonus.