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Paging the fun police. Fun police to the Yeti forum. This is a code red... @Llanigraham

Two easy ways to test it (without having to disassemble anything) One is to put a clamp meter in ohms on the injector leads and check for any abnormal readings. Two is to use an oscilloscope and back probe the injector/injector rail and check the current draw of each injection pulse and check if any of them are not contributing as much as they should. (An obstructed injector will usually appear to have a lower curve than a good injector) Doing both at the same time and cross referencing that data also makes it able for you to pin point which injector it actually is by moving around the ohm clamp. Given that you can also do this with a noid light or power probe, they can easily throw you off. If this is not your cup of tea, there is yet another way (disassembly) Get yourself a EM276 injector tester (The chinesium kind that are cheap and widely available) pull the injectors and test them with that.

As numerous rally car owners in the UK have found, fitting a hand brake system that relies totally on hydraulic power is illegal. (*) The Law states that it has to be mechanical, so even the electrical systems, such as on my Niro, the relay only pulls a mechanical linkage. One of the main reasons is that hydraulic systems can "leak back" so slightly releasing the brakes and letting the car roll. And having done a grass autotest, you can hand brake turn a Yeti, but it doesn't feel very stable doing so. (*) To get around it many now fit 2 hand brake levers, one connected to the mechanical system, and one to the hydraulic.

Nothing wrong with this ass

When I got my car, 24,000 miles ago I thought the front wheel bearing was noisy, 'wait until it gets worse and then bring it in'. It's still the same. Now at 139,000 and they've never been changed.

That is an absolutely rubbish reason for changing bearings, Change when something is not working correctly, not just for the sake of it. Ours have never been done (front or rear) and the car has 176k miles on it, no sign of trouble at all with them.

Sadly there are no local manufacturers for skoda parts AFAIK.....so even for aftermarket spares we have to rely on import.....if $4.169 a gallon sounds pretty....it was $3.89 a year back.

Still waiting for snow here but if/when it does come testing your theory of the Haldex being disconnected when the handbrake is operated will be the first thing that I will do. I always try to find the limits of all my new vehicles ASAP on a wide wet greasy roundabout when there is no other traffic both with and without the ASC or whatever todays acrony is, the latter is very important, you need it off to know the vehicles real characteristics and on to appreciate the job that it does and to feel its activation, unless your eyes are on the idiot lights most of the time you are unaware of its intervention and that you had driven (or reacted to a hazard) beyond the vehicles limits. The 4x4 Yeti has so much grip combined with a high C of G that I did not do my usual find the limits testing so I hope that we get some snow.

Good morning.......

I have Goodyear eagle asymmetric tyres on mine and couldn't even get off my road.... 🤦🏻‍♂️ I've learnt for next time..

A few photos from today's walk........

The clever part in Simply Clever is probably the self-cleaning feature of the inside of the headlights I suppose. We just didnt think of that ;)

Folks, For the last 9 months I’ve had a constant EML on with fault code 005629 - P1495 - N345 Valve circuit open or short to ground. Testing with vcds showed no voltage getting to the N345 valve when actuated. I ignored this for 9 months as it didn’t effect the cars driving however with an mot looming I decided to get it looked at. Vehicle - 2007 Octavia vrs tdi engine - BMN With help of someone with access to the official wiring diagrams I noted the green wire from the N345 plug ran to a plug behind the passenger (RHD) headlight and had continuity, The yellow wire from the valve runs directly to Pin 15 on the 60 pin plug at the eco. It had no continuity, i found the broken wire in the plastic corrugated section which runs from under the EGR valve area to behind the passenger headlight. Wiring was replaced and heat shrinked and viola no more fault code. I post this this as I found many people on various sites with the same fault code and no one mentioned how it was fixed. Hopefully this helps someone else. Cheers fraser

It’s a nice ass alright

Couple of drive bys when i was at the dyno dynoing my mates 1.4 tsi

I had to read it a couple times before i understood what you meant. My use of words might be off. What i mean to measure is amperage, or better said the resistance that causes the amperage to change. Its driven by a solenoid. Any issues tend to show up as resistance which you can be measure that way. Same trick can be used on spark plugs leads to do a quick and dirty relative compression test. Is it accurate? No. Does it work? It can provide you with indicative information as in 1 of the 4 injectors has a significant different reading than the others. So yes. Its quick and dirty. Could also be that 3 of the 4 are messed up and you are looking at a the one working injector. Or its all over the place and none of it says anything while one of em is messed up. Back probing with an oscilloscope and measuring current would then be a better option. But not everyone has one laying around.

You appeared to be jokingly thanking folk for voting you as being unhelpful in the past. So I gave you another vote.

Don't worry I knew where you meant.

I think I kinda follow that.... I don’t really mind my battery lasting a year. What I do mind is the car NOT TELLING ME WHEN IT SAYS IN THE MANUAL THAT IT SHOULD!! If it just flashes a message up like it should then I’d change the battery or at least ensure I had spares with me.

This is very true

We all love that. Just a thought, temperature sensor. Had to replace 2 or 3 in my Mk1 Octi over 12yrs. The temp sensor sends infor the the ECU, and given they are £5 a pop, worth a punt? My Octi has a slightly lumpy old at 3.5 yrs old, and was still there 12 yrs later. Character.

I'm sure he meant when the speedo reads 30, you're actually doing about 27, and so on and so forth, somewhere in the region of 10% difference..

Snowing in Madrid, Spain's Capital with 20cm due to fall in the next 24 hours.

I am unsure whether you two have done that in a humorous manner or otherwise. Perhaps I did not express myself correctly, those who have a problem with someones posting style can frequently give unhelpfull votes to that person, I get that and understand that it may be justified, however if they post likes when someone is trolling or abusing that person that is a poor show in my view and I'm glad to say has not happened (to me) on this forum. I was trying to show my genuine appreciation and respect for someone (without naming) who in the past has been an active contributor to my small collection of "not helpfull" votes, after seeing that they were to be among those denouncing the "altitude" poster.

Recent findings have shown that what skoda uk and what skoda central publish don't correlate very well. There was another post where myself and @e-Roottoot had conflicting info all from the same brand 🤣🤷🏼‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️ Just to give an example - the fixed servicing menu mentions only a time based timing belt replacement and not mileage 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️

The ignition coil for Felicia 135 (carburetor) is cylindrical. Different connectors, different specifications. For example https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/004028149-ignition-coil-1-3-tesla-27543.html The distributor is like this: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/004026252-distributor-1-3-cn-3313.html

$490 actualy sounds like a lot of money to me. I would expect to pay less than that in the UK! I genuinely expected India to be a lot cheaper than here. Go on then, how much is a litre of fuel? There are a lot more Skoda's on Indian roads than I imagined, probably more than in the UK. I've visited the Czech Republic a few times, and 80% of cars are Skoda, no surprise. The Ambassador, what a car. I am a fan on the Royal Enfield too. Rode a 500 Bullet a few years ago. Such a shock as I ride a Honda 4 cylinder, but the Enfield had so much charm and was great fun.

I would agree, it is time for replacement. Nice car, worth the investment. What sort of cost are you looking at localy? @Burhan I note you are from India, whereabouts? Are there many Skoda cars in India? Be interested to find out. I still have a small crush for a Hindustan Ambassador. We imported them here for a couple of years in the early nougthies, but I've not seen one on UK roads.

Man, these are summer tires.. Even all-season are compromise which you can take in UK and other countries with mild winter. Winter tires are the recommended option. Good that you learnt your lesson. Sorry if I sound like your old grandma

You only need to note the speedo differences for future reference, either with google maps or I use a speed app, then the built in nav is adequate and I prefer it to using google maps having tried both as better integrated to car. I just remember that real 30mph is indicated 33, etc up to 70 is 76 for exact speed, and even then there will be a couple of mph for leeway before a camera trap is triggered so safe. As above most traffic unfortunately believe their speedo and travel slower than allowed. My wife sits at an indicated 65 in a 70 area, and no explanation that she is only doing 60 really gets through her perceived risk of getting a speeding fine

I already have all those other features and I can tell the heated seats are great,even with the alcantara seat. Lane assist and blind spot monitoring are great and use them all the time.

The best aftermarket device to use to add wireless CarPlay is the Cplay2air adapter. It’s on offer on there website for £96 at the minute.

My dealer also told me this is normal, (even with Xenon headlights), since VAG has changed the technology on headlights, which are not air-sealed anymore. BUT, I can give you a tip: If moisture is very important, you can try removing the cap in the back of the headlight and introduce a tampon (yes a tampax for women). Just let it overnight. It's very efficient. It's a tip from a friend of mine, who often makes underwater photography. He uses this for its water-resistant case for his camera when he goes scuba diving. Any moist in front of the lens would ruin his pics indeed. It does cost much, and it's worth a try ! Simply clever !

The unfortunate thing with the motor trade is that people have a very low opinion of those that work in it. The unfortunate thing with the above is the motor trade is full of people who are mongs, snakes, morons etc so it's quite an apt opinion for the most point, that applies to both dealer and independents. It's a trade that schools point the stupid kids in the direction of. Just to clear the air though guys it takes a lot more than some comments on the Internet to rattle my cage. I'm a sarcastic arse hole at the best of times but sarcasm rarely travels well without tone of voice. Dash cams again. I always plug them back in when I'm done, usually as I park the car up in the car park. Whilst a vehicle is under our care it's insured by our insurance. Sadly GDPR has become a big concern these days and a breach can result in a hefty fine and or job loss for the guilty party. It's a legal concern that isn't going away, if your dash cam captures someone else's personal information then that's a breach, we could end up in hot water. One could argue that your dash cam is your responsibility to check and make sure it's functioning correctly regardless of outside influences just like drivers should (but rarely do) check their tyres, oil, screenwash etc. If that's part of an agreement with your insurance then maybe notifying them of the dealer visit might be the answer should an issue occur? I've known people do just that when they have trackers/black boxes fitted. Our contact centre will generally contact people to advise them that their timing belt is due when it's approaching that time, it's their job. The calibre of those people might not be that great, they might not know all the ins and outs, more often than not the person that calls you has probably never had their head under the bonnet of a car. All skodas (and the rest of VWG) are due at 5 years or the appropriate mileage. Those staff members do the same for any other pending work.

It is chillier tonight than is normal in Scotland from the North to the South, but milder weather is forecast from Sunday.

Expecting snow tomorrow morning.. Waiting for it more than Christmas

super slippery outside tonight - -6C and a few cm of snow cover, hardpacked on all side roads. Great with the SX4, not so much with the Octy. Oh, and ice rain on the way home Thursday evening - so -3C and rain

No. The delivery date is first registration and commencement of warranty. The two are usually about 3 months apart. The example above was built at the end of September 2019 but it wasn't actually delivered to the new owner until mid 2020.

Guessing everyone knows that pressing and holding the power button will do a proper reset on the infotainment. Hold for about 15 seconds. Had to do mine yesterday when Android auto wasn't playing any sound. My old car went through a phase of needing resetting daily for about a week then all was well. No exterior intervention needed.

I agree with most what's been said above. I think modern cars do have too much tech - or is it just me getting older & not being able to get my head around all the tech? Probably a bit of both. I mentioned recently in another thread that my last S2 Superb Elegance CR170 & my current S3 L&K Superb 280 both had / have Park Assist - the thing that turns the steering wheel & parallel parks the car for you. I've never used this on either car & have never felt the need to use it either. I would have much preferred a Panoramic Roof instead but since I bought both cars 2nd hand I didn't have a choice & Park assist was a standard fit on both of them - why? I started driving in 1972. I passed my test in my instructors Mk1 Escort & my first car was a 1964 HA Viva hand-me-down from my dad to get me off the 2 wheel death trap I had been riding prior to that. That HA Viva had a heater but that was about it - no power steering, no electric windows, manual choke (women drivers used to pull out the choke to hang their handbags on it - old Jasper Carrot joke ), terrible headlights, no reversing lights, drum brakes all round & no power assistance. I spent most of my GM apprentice wages on adding fogs, heated rear window kit, disc & servo brakes from Brabham Viva I found in a junk yard, new alloys, new twin choke carb etc etc. I then got rid of the HA Viva & got an 1969 HB Viva GT which had the 2litre twin carb engine from the Victor VX4/90, I added a race exhaust, stage 2 head, twin Webbers, high lift cam, neg camber wishbones, alloys, decent cassette radio etc etc. Even with that lot the the HB was still a very basic car as they all were in those days. Then followed a string of mostly instantly forgettable company cars which had increasing levels of kit as the years rolled on - MkII Ford Escort Estate, FE Victor Estate, CF Bedford works van (which only had 3 gears!), BL Maxi, Dolomite, Cortina's, Mk I & II Cavaliers, Vauxhall Carlton & Belmont, Rover 400, Citroen Xantia, Pug 406, Black Alpha 156 with red leather (loved this car), Renault Scenic, Mondeo. Then some privately owned - Audi A6 1.9tdi estate, previously mentioned S2 Superb & current S3 Superb. Every car came with more & more kit & I think my current Superb has more than enough tech on it for my little brain to coupe with which is why it will probably be the last car I will have for everyday use. Being an avid watcher of the TV series Bangers & Cash I'm seriously considering an old classic car that I could tinker with to use in the summer months & that would actually fit in my single garage - who can actually get their daily driver in a standard single garage these days . Fact is that even with all the safety kit in the world fitted if the driver is a knob they will still have accidents. Just like the idiot I came across today who went straight on in front of me at a mini roundabout that I was turning right on with his mobile in his ear. I've a good mind to check my dash cam to see if I got him & his reg on camera & post it to the local plod. Enough ranting I think.

Tested out my Hankook all season tyres today. Impressive. Not quite as much bite as my previous full winter tyres but I'll not get stuck and braking was still impressive. Excuse the filming. Was a very quiet side country road with zero through traffic. https://flic.kr/p/2kqgWzn

So the word from Marshall Skoda is, new pump and cam belt fitted. No coat for diagnostics and with a bit of good will from VAG the total cost is £360. All in all, I’m happy (I’d be more happy if it hadn’t failed in the first place).

Thanks. I had a pretty good day today, but that scene makes me feel optimistic about the future in a way I can't begin to explain. Soul food of an extremely pleasant flavour. It's not a bad bottle of Argentinian Malbec I'm drinking, before anyone else says it...

I'm with both of you on this. £35 for a pollen filter? What a mark up on that and all of the other service items! It takes only 5 mins or so to change a pollen filter. As you probably know Evilbay and others have lots of service item's considerably cheaper for the same items as used by Skoda. It doesn't inspire me that a technician can't tighten wheel nuts.

hi guys. it's been a while since I wrote here the last time. I had an issue with a vacuum hose on mine. I had a poor idle and the engine was dying sometimes. I was looking under the hood one morning and heard an air leak, the hose was cut in the middle. I replaced it with a cheap, universal 8mm iirc, fuel hose and works just fine. I don't have a picture at hand right now, it's the one which is in the left side of the throttle body and gets to the head breather, the narrow, not the wide one. If I'll get the chance later I'll take a picture of it and will share it with you.

iirc there is a little plastic barb at the end of aerial where it goes into the base. it squeezes in and the aerial slots into base then it springs out inside the base to stop it coming back out. thats the anti theft. you literally need to just pull it Nd will likely break that tab off doing so. if your replacing it with a fin though, im pretty sure you get the whole thing off inc the base in one go? pull down the headlining and undo the nut. then disconnect the wires from the base. then attach wires to new fin base, put in your fin in make sure the seal is a good fit or use some sealant if in doubt and do up the nut nice and tight.

A couple more snowy pics after a bit of a light dusting last night.

The manual gives instructions on how to reset the open and closed positions after disconnecting the battery. I had a problem with closing the sun blind. When closing after leaving it open for weeks it bounced back from the fully closed by about 30cm. Disconnected battery and reset this has solved my problem.

Any help?

Ferryden, Montrose.