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Just picked up the car, clutch was replaced under warranty as a small oil leak found. Great service from them as to be honest they could quite easily have taken me for a grand! Before I knew the result I spoke with the dealer I bought it from and the Manager told me to contact him before paying if they did try and charge me, so fills me with a bit of confidence that they’re not all out to rip us off. Thanks all for your advice, I will be writing to Skoda UK to complain about the defect on an “Approved” used Skoda, just in case there is an underlying issue that may reoccur in another 15k miles.

I particularly like the review accusing them of laundering drug money

Literally hundreds of postings on these forums. There is a sticky thread on the front mk2 page, on engine failures EA888 1.8 and 2.0tsi. Only you can make the call on trade off risk / vs cost. The earlier revisions were very poorly designed indeed. Do some searches and look at videos if you really want to see why. The is an inspection plug on the lower timing chain cover, you can inspect how far the tensioner is extended. There are some measuring blocks in VCDS which report on parameters that give an indication of the timing phase. There is a possibility an experienced person maybe able to recognise an old version of the tensioner through the inspection plug but the exact revision - pretty impossible. Of course VW/Audi would have a pretty good idea of the in use failure rate that has been exhibited in real life and the design deficiency. Not that they'd ever tell you. Your other questions are all about unknowns, vendor authenticity, reputation, morals. No one can make that call for you. The general rule on purchasing is if there is not proof assume it has not been done.

Manage to get it off without fortunately, angle grinder and a steady hand 😉

The wearing friction material in the Haldex clutch does tend to clog things up. Regular Haldex oil changes are needed. There is no proper filter just a gauze at the pump inlet. Skoda’s servicing scheme doesn’t seem to include removing the pump to clean the gunge off the gauze, even though this isn’t hard to do. Eventually the gauze can clog and the system can stop working, possibly due to pump failure. I’m not sure if the clutch linings can wear out within 100k miles, depends on usage I’d guess. One thing to be aware of when buying 2nd hand is that there is nothing to indicate that the system isn’t working - in terms of warning lights etc. You just notice that the front wheels become spin-happy.

Looks like my name was mentioned... Not sure what you mean by 'phased out the fun engines' in the Swift but I'm guessing you mean the naturally aspirated engines in the Mk 3 Swift to 2017 and the 130bhp Sport? If so then I can reassure you they definitely haven't phased out the fun engines or the fun! And it's all Suzuki's own design which means great reliability and lots of knowledge gained from small capacity bike engines. As George has said I have a new model Swift (2017 SZ5 version) with the 1.0l Boosterjet triple Hybrid and it's a great package. 112ps and 170nm from the petrol engine plus 3ps and 50NM from the electric starter generator. That puts it well ahead of the old Swift Sport and almost on a par with the non-hybrid current Sport in terms of torque, all in a package that is only 925kg that handles like a go-kart. OK the interior may not have much in the way of soft touch materials but it looks good, works well, is comfy, has stacks of tech and, design-wise (IMHO) beats the Fabia hands down. I also got mine for a very good price... There are a fair few discussions on tehSwift on here: Have I just seen a pretty good VRs substitute? The new Suzuki Swift Sport....WOW! - Skoda Fabia Mk III - BRISKODA Suzuki Swift Sport - General Automotive Chat - BRISKODA http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/448432-2018-suzuki-swift http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/444067-suzuki-swift-or-fabia http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/436099-2017-suzuki-swift-rs By the way - VW don't have any stake in Suzuki any more - that was 'bought back' just prior to Dieselgate with a loan from Toyota who Suzuki are now sharing cars with (the new Swace is a Corolla and the Across a RAV4). VW originally bought into Suzuki for their small engine know-how... but clearly may not have learnt much...

Good work with the breather pipes, I think that's an often-overlooked source of trouble on these. With the rad, just keep taking stuff off and see where you get,

Slightly off topic, I wonder if I'll get away without doing this too, as only 1 fan, and no AC, On a positive note them breather pipes seem to have done the trick, it's idling lovely now, I'm guessing it's because the large one was blocked, seems slightly poker too. Not sure if I mentioned it but got one for £25 on carparts4less

I know of motorhub. They trade from an old multi storey carpark. They do have some very elaborate stock. The vehicle above actually has a complete service record and was only chopped in (probably to a dealer who chose not to retail it because its milage) last week. It's got a full service history, had the coolant regulator replaced and has skoda extended warranty on it until june this year.

There's a little, white plastic restrictor in the bleed assembly in front of the gearbox which is a known problem causer and folk often remove it. The result is a more responsive clutch pedal with a faster return speed. The manual golf, leon and S3 drivers have been doing it for a while.

It is Simply Clever how they use the stuck on Tornado Line and lower styling features that are in the online tease images for a Skoda Fabia & Scala to disguise the car from VW.

JR RS. I think you are slipping No cover on top of the battery I bought one via Amazon last year which hides the cheap looking felt wrapper thingy. £11 in the UK. I cut the top bit of OEM cover to fit the replacement cover which has a removeable panel to give access to the + battery terminal without having to remove the whole cover. Battery cover Also, is the Superb cover on top of the radiator standard or aftermarket? Not seen that on UK cars & unless I missed it I didn't see it in your list of mods. Do you have details if aftermarket? This has given me quite a few ideas. Keep the updates coming

They have some amazing stock of Super Cars and an Alfa Romeo that i would love to buy. At the moment i am only £69,000 short of the Asking Price. I wonder if they accept Magic Beans as a form of payment.

They are bad reviews ,one place to avoid by the looks of it 🤬

No you are not compelled to use a Skoda dealer, but in my experience there is not that much difference between independent servicing prices and Skoda fixed contract pricing, plus you get even better servicing pricing if you buy a 3 or 5 year Skoda servicing contract (the latter not available when I bought mine). I was not aware but fully believe what you and @whitevx say about other VAG group dealerships offering servicing in dealership holes, logical since so many components are shared across the group. Originally there was only one Skoda dealership in Adelaide when the brand was reintroduced here about 11 years ago and naturally that was with main dealer for whole VAG group, so my mk2 was serviced in the same facilities used for VW/Audi/Bentley and it was conveniently placed. Somewhat ironic when as a couple of times they tried to charge me at VW Golf rates instead of the Octavia $30 cheaper rate (same engine/transmission, just different badge). My problem was that the local Skoda dealership and servicing went to another agent and their facilities were further away and much more inconvenient (and nowhere near as pristine as the former location) so I did start looking at alternatives but figured servicing travel was just a once a year issue I could cope with. I think the importing company structure is differs in NZ and Aus as well as the fact that you don't have our crap high sulphur fuel, our ADR (Australian Design Rules) complications so NZ gets to see new issue of cars far earlier than we do.

I saw this day coming & switched from diesel to a petrol 280 L&K 4 two years ago. Also because my annual mileage was going to drop dramatically when I packed up working. Let's face it no one drives a diesel out of choice. Smelly, noisy, diesel is more expensive than petrol (in UK) & the modern diesels have got very complicated to the point where it's marginal whether it's cheaper to run a diesel if you do a less than 25-30k miles pa. New petrol cars won't be around for much longer either but I'll not be switching from petrol to electric until the prices become more sensible & a 400 mile range was the norm rather than the exception. Actually I would be more interested in a hydrogen powered car but this tech has seemed to have stalled in recent years & there are only the grand total of 13 places to fill up with hydrogen in the whole of the UK! Looks like we are all being railroaded down the electric route whether we like it or not

The clutch pedal sticking would be an indication of a hydraulic system fault and not the clutch itself.

Update on this as the car was flashed with the stage 2 software last week I already had the intake mods suggested by REVO, so this was only a remap job. I didn't touch anything hardware wise (no inter-cooler or charge pipes upgraded). Reason is the GPF Stage 2 is developped to be run on stock downpipe anyway, and an upgraded inter-cooler would only prevent possible power loss from high ambient temps and heat soak that currently are not an issue where I'm based or for the type of driving I do (no extended full throttle application...) so I just went ahead. Car seems to be running fine after some logs and I will keep an eye on logs and timing as getting closer to summer in case I see a noticeable drop in performance but for now it all looks good. Performance wise I'd have been glad to see half a sec off my previous average 100-200 time of 11.7" but I was in for a surprise. The car was indeed feeling as if it pulled somewhat stronger but I was shocked to see my best runs between 10.1" - 10.3" . Subsequent testing showed a consistent average of 10.5-10.7" too which is still more than I could have wished for. For a 1630kg car with 272bhp stock, and just software, an intake, and a turbo inlet pipe done, those times are very impressive. For reference, my 360bhp/1470kg GTI before was managing 10.9-11.0" at best. Also, every stage 2 Superb 280 I'd seen so far was closer to 11", and that was with an upgraded downpipe and no GPFs on obviously so maybe the GPF catalysts are somehow less restrictive? Can't really explain it otherwise. Anyway, I have a dyno planned soon not for peak numbers but rather about the new torque curve but i can say that REVO's claims about 400bhp on the stock downpipe on GPF cars don't sound exaggerated at all. My only concern with boost now peaking at ~1.8bar (up 0.2 from 1.6bar before) is the turbo longevity so I might consider some LM upgrade options come spring time...

If you have owned the car for only 8 weeks then you are covered under the Consumer Rights Act 2015. The expectation is that a car should be fit for purpose for at least 6 months. I would phone the dealer where you purchased from, explain what has gone on and how they are going to rectify it. Also quote the Consumer Rights Act if you get no where as it is law and they cannot dodge their liability to repair it. Dont let the garage you have taken it to do any work on the car else you will invalidate any claim you can make against the dealer you purchased it off.

This took a couple of years but it's finally out. REVO now offer a Stage 2 pack for GPF cars with a claimed 400PS / 562Nm These are just incredible figures because they are achieved without upgrading the downpipe and without removing the GPF's as REVO aimed to keep the cars fully road legal and avoid MOT issues. In some countries it's suspected that removal/absence of GPFs could result in direct MOT fail so maybe they wanted to play it safe? Essentially this "stage 2" is only backed up by an intake kit, an intercooler and a charge pipes upgrade, I'd personally call it a stage 1+++ more likely as there is no modification on the exhaust system whatsoever. Now, I'm still trying to get my head round what magic REVO did to hit such figures, and in particular to achieve more torque on a GPF car (562Nm) than what a pre-GPF stage 2 with upgraded catalyst (!!!) was making (520-540Nm) ... I've seen hybrid turbo MQBs at 460-480bhp that don't make much more torque than that to be honest. I don't take dyno figures too seriously as they don't always reflect reality, so I'd like to see some road performance data between stage 1 and stage 2 GPF cars to quantify the performance upgrade but since I have an intake kit already on mine and the remap for upgrading customers is reduced to a mere 100EUR currently, I'm only looking at the cost of the intercooler, charge pipes and installation to switch to Stage 2 which I think would be reduced to around 1K so this sounds extremely tempting... https://www.onlyrevo.com/product-details/mqb-20tsi-is38-gpf-performance-pack

Had arranged with the dealer to pick up my new Superb 150 BHP SEL DSG estate in Quartz Grey on Monday. however,mrumours that in England Click and Collect might be banned until March from the weekend, I’m picking it up tomorrow! Result! Lol

Scroll down to see a photo of a Jaguar XF that found a ditch today. 255 summer tyres don't have much grip in the winter. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-55660232

The battery cover sort of snaps on over the battery. I had to remove the top of the felt flap to fit mine. Ah for the intake cover. Thought it was an aftermarket jobby which I now see are available from Revo amongst others.

https://www.swindonadvertiser.co.uk/news/19010569.tesla-owner-elon-musk-asked-take-honda-site-swindon/?action=bulletin_click&sent_id=1224529529&secret=355281&ref=ebmpn

Door lock all sorted, anyone interested, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-LEFT-RIGHT-DOOR-LOCK-CYLINDER-REPAIR-KIT-FOR-SKODA-FABIA-6Y-/324334873322?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Very easy fix, thanks Lee for that video.

Just fitted the new handle using some trim removal tools, two tabs on the long sides, one on the short sides, out she pops, remove connector, plug into new handle and push it back in. 2 minute job. Hope the turns and erratic problem into a permanent fix.

I had to google which country uses the Forint. I've been to several East European countries, but yet to get to Hungary. On the list of places I want to visit. We just need this flippin Covid19 to **** off ! £45 is a lot for a wheel barrow? Not that Ive ever bought one. Mind you, I would buy that VRs from Motorhub for 10x that! That is really good advice, its what I do to. Autotrader searches are a fantastic tool. You can do the same with Carguru, Motors, Ebay etc.

Thank you all for your great replies! Those Trustpilot reviews have sealed it for me. Swerve. As a side note, 2017 manual, petrol VRS estates don't stay on sale for long on Autotrader!

@Westbury63Funny you should post that, as my partner just bought one yesterday to move logs. When i asked how much it was & she said 18,000 Forint. Thankfully just about £45. More thankfully i am not there to be moving and stacking them. PS If the Dealership in the thread was to be laundering money they would not be the only ones in the UK doing that. Plenty of the UK's biggest Motor Groups became the size they have doing exactly that. It even got some founders on the Queens Honours list.

From what I can see, that's is what they would expect you to accept when they settle a warranty claim. I think you'd be safe buying one of these from them though. Maybe.

I've got the Eibach Pro Kit on my 230 hatch, which I took over the Sportline due to needing a ~30mm drop but retain some pliancy. The Sportline set, I'm led to believe, pretty much matches the H&R springs in terms of dynamic feel & slightly less 'felt' stiffness; whereas the Pro Kit adds more control and composure to the OEM ride, without impacting comfort (or NVH) too much - since the ride height isn't as reduced as the sportline ( ~10mm less drop), and being between 30-35mm overall. I would say that the OEM ride is pretty lax with a great deal of roll and pitch (mainly due to fairly weedy rear anti-roll bars), and one might be dissuaded from going back to 'standard' springs. Any decent aftermarket springs is an immediate improvement to ride and handling anyway. It's difficult to gauge the difference between both sets, especially if you were to use your friend's Golf GTI as an example - since even though it's the same MQB platform, it's still a very different car in terms of handling dynamics to the Octy. I'd highly recommend Eibach as quality suspension upgrade and it'll depend what you want out of the car which will help decide between Pro Kit or Sportline. I've driven around Cork a few times over 2017 and 2018 (somewhat spiritedly in a hire car...), so I have a feeling of what some of the roads are like. The roads around me are pretty crap (as well as having a lot of mountainous speed humps) so I felt a compromise on drop height vs. pliancy was required - hence the Pro Kit. In the meantime and semi-related, but have you taken the car to get a decent wheel alignment to check there's no issues with setup?

I think you passed the point of hope a long time ago!

"a half decent voice activation system" hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

A 110ps 1.2 or 1.0 TSI DSG will behave just as your Mk2 vRS 1.4 TSI Twincharger did but just with less power. It is the same DQ200 DSG as your 2010-2012 (then from 2012-2014 after Global Recall excluding Europe) had but with less possible problems. The newest 1.0 TSI's will have a GPF. I think you will like i Suzuki Swift and @skomazmight see this and help you on those. They do not have VW Group engines.

Love my 981, yes it keeps me young at heart. Great touring car for relatively low outlay. Well done Porsche! https://finder.porsche.com/gb/en_GB/Cayman-273855 https://finder.porsche.com/gb/en_GB/Boxster-224833 https://finder.porsche.com/gb/en_GB/Boxster-264835 https://finder.porsche.com/gb/en_GB/Boxster-224833 Bargains to be had at sensible money with warranty cover.

ECO means 2 cylinder mode.

That's some amount of work you have done to your car. Very nice indeed.

I like think I know a bit about cars, have owned numerous of various marques over 30 years, been on many motoring forums, and this is the first time I've ever heard you can tell belt of chain just be looking at the engine bay, or have heard advice you that effect. Not saying you are wrong, just saying this is the first time I've heard this.

The VW Polo and Seat Ibiza are a later generation to the Skoda Rapid, and hence have slightly bigger outside diameter tyres. 185/65R15 and 195/55R16 are about the same outside diameter and are about as big as you can fit to your car. The narrower 185/65R15 is unlikely to rub. I would guess the 195/55R16 could rub if you fitted it to a 7Jx16 ET46 rim, but anything between 5.5J and 6.5J with an offset between ET35 and ET42 should be ok. 185/65R15 is a noticeably more comfortable size than the 195/55R16 and is also a lot cheaper. 185/65R15 fitted to a 5.5J rim will be more comfortable than fitting it to a 6J rim. You might also want to consider 195/60R15 fitted to a 5.5Jx15 ET40 rim. 195/60R15 has a slightly smaller outside diameter than 185/65R15 so will be closer to the standard tyre sizes on your car. It's normal for front wheel drive cars to wear the front tyres out twice as quickly as the rear tyres. Volkswagen Polo 2020 1.5 TSI – Generation: Mk6 [2017 .. 2022] – Market: EUDM – Power: 148 hp | 110 kW | 150 PS – Engine: I4, Petrol – Options: Highline – Center Bore: 57.1 mm – Wheel Fasteners: Lug bolts – Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 – Trim Production: [2019 .. 2021] Tire Rim PCD 185/70R14 88H 5Jx14 ET38 5x100 185/65R15 88T 5.5Jx15 ET40 5x100 185/60R16 86H 6Jx16 ET45 5x100 195/55R16 87H 6.5Jx16 ET47 5x100 215/45ZR17 87Y 7Jx17 ET51 5x100 https://www.wheel-size.com/size/volkswagen/polo/2020/ Seat Ibiza 2020 1.5 TSI – Generation: KJ [2017 .. 2022] [EUDM] – Power: 148 hp | 110 kW | 150 PS – Engine: I4, Petrol – Options: XCELLENCE, FR – Center Bore: 57.1 mm – Wheel Fasteners: Lug bolts – Torque: 120 Nm – Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 – Trim Production: [2017 .. 2021] Tire Rim PCD 185/65R15 88H 5.5Jx15 ET40 5x100 185/65R15 88V 5.5Jx15 ET40 5x100 195/55R16 91V 6.5Jx16 ET47 5x100 215/50R16 91V 7Jx16 ET51 5x100 215/45ZR17 91W 7Jx17 ET51 5x100 215/40ZR18 91W 7Jx18 ET51 5x100 https://www.wheel-size.com/size/seat/ibiza/2020/

Ridiculous that you should have any fault with the clutch at that low mileage. I replaced the clutch assembly recently on my 2015 2.0tdi due to a low bite point. The car has done 86k and the clutch that came out had minimal wear. The entire cost inc. labour was £380 and didn't take near the 5.5 hours stated. So don't let them swing you with all that nonsense. As said above, get back to the supplying dealer and if they refuse to put it right, threaten with trading standards etc. You can always insist on returning the vehicle for a full refund I believe. Good luck.

I have read, I don't know exactly where, that this application only works with mirrolink and with carplay. If your android does not have Mirrolink it will not be able to connect.

Up to MY18: 280 = 6-speed DQ250 (the older one) 272 = 7-speed DQ381 (the newest) From MY2021 onwards, power is yet again up to 280 and will come with the DQ381. It's true that the DQ250 is a solid box as it has been proven over the years but the DQ381 is based on the stronger DQ500 from the TT-RS/RS3 so it is expected to be just as good if not better in terms of reliability and handling more torque then OEM. By now, the DQ381 is found on many VAG cars so the pticture starts getting clearer, apart from very few exceptions (only 2 that I know of) there have been no cases of issues, failures. I drove the DQ250 before, switched to a DQ381 car in 2019. No issues with any of them (both tuned to 370+) The DQ381 is a better 'box (athough don't think night and day difference) in terms of performance: smoother changes in the Auto modes (Both Drive & Sport), shorter ratios in the lower gears that help the car sprint more easily, and a lovely long 7th gear that makes cruising a real pleasure (the short-ish 6th gear of the DSG6 was my main gripe with it, otherwise no problems at all). It does benefit from a DSG remap though especially when running more power, even more so than the DQ250. In the present day, I wouldn't consider a DQ250 over a DQ381 despite the (inevitable) longer track record of the former as there does not seem to be any justifiable concern with the newer 'box, and you can get stuff like virtual cockpit which were not an option on the 280 cars. In terms of upgrades both cars (pre-GPF 280 and GPF 272) will see around 360 with just a remap, which could go a bit higher with some intake mods. Pre-GPF 280 has ready solutions for stage 2 downpipes that should get one closer to 400bhp while on the GPF 272 there is a stage 2 from REVO that does not modify neither the downpipe or the GPFs (meaning not MOT issues) but still manages 400bhp and equal, pre-GPF stage 2 performance as I can testify, without essentially the extra cost and hassle of upgrading the downpipe.

Whilst there could be another fault (which you would need the auto electrician to identify), I am in the dying battery camp. The clue to me was started fine after a charge, the references to only 10v. Not sure about the grinding but possibly slow release of something if electrical relay is being sluggish due to lower voltage. If the garage tested the battery, did they do it in a warm workshop, or out in the cold, if something is dying in cold, might not show in warm If the battery is 8 years old, may as we’ll change it, as probably going to have to do it sometime in next few months anyway. A continuously strong batter and voltage might solve problems anyway.

I drove 4 hours last night, it was dark and rainy. I enjoyed my just stock led’s all the way. They are giving exelent lightoutput. Had severel cars with xenon and the new Octavias standard leds are better. If they are such a mess for some, then something is wrong with the car or the persons eyes.

The DSG oil cooler has its own thermostat separate to the engine's one.

To @Bmason2000 - From 10 Problems like Your, 9 was solved with changing the "DSG"-Thermostat

Which sounds like usual salesman speak, utter nonsense. The only 7 seater that can’t have a towbar fitted/ or tow is the 2.0 tdi 150 manual

Here is interior of my MY21 sportline iv let me know if anything more specific you would like to see (Apologies needs a good vac out)

Update. I made the decision to buy a Garmin and bought the VivoActive 4 Black/Slate, after a little shopping around I managed to get it for just over £200 which I'm happy with. I've been using it now for just under a month and thought I'd share a few things about it. I've compared the GPS & Heartrate monitor against my MIO Cyclo 315 & chest strap at the same time while out on a number of hikes & bike rides & the Garmin is very impressive, no missed data/no high or low data & almost identical to my MIO Likes * It's a nice lightweight watch (compared to my old Samsung Gear 3 Frontier) * Application integration to & from Strava/Zwift (more Garmin Connect that the watch) * Sleep Tracking and Body Battery seem quite accurate & often mirror my mood that day * Easy to customise the menu's/data displayed during activities & access the app you want * When manually starting an activity the GPS picks up really quickly (tried from several different places) * Battery - charging time is very quick & lasts very well (approx 4 days for me). I walk 3-4miles every morning(with GPS due to a very active dog), I also do a similar length walk in the evening too & sleep with the watch on (only take it off for showering). I have disabled PulseOx. I only turn bluetooth on once a day to sync my activities & its on for approx 10min (not that it needs that long). When on being used for an activity the battery life with just GPS will certainly outlast what I'm capable of, I've done a few 3-4 hour rides/hikes & I've been very impressed at how little the battery is used. Dislikes * It is advertised as supporting Turbo Trainers but I found out after I bought it that it doesn't support smart turbo trainers (never mind), I can still use my chest strap and my rides auto sync with Garmin Connect & incorporated into the watch * The screen is a little sensitive and often lights up when moving around in bed Overall I'm very happy with my choice & for the odd 1hr ride I now don't take my MIO bike computer and just use my watch.

Quick clean yesterday