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If only more Youtube car repair videos were like that instead of starting with "HI GUYS!" and wittering on for 15 minutes before showing anything, 1 minute 20 seconds was perfect, that would have been 20 minutes plus with most of the other narcissists. No annoying and overpowering music either.

Engine: 1.6 TDi 115 Type: SE saloon Mileage: 183k miles Cambelt changed 1 times 5 speed Manual Gearbox oil changed 1 times Any other major work done? heater blower motor, exhaust flap control sensor, electronic coolant pump, fuel flap actuator, wiper blades, 19x services, numerous tyres, brake pads changed 3x, discs once STILL ON ORIGINAL CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL!!

full steering lock with wheels on you should be able to see the roll bar to measure

After so many years I came across the same problem with my daughter's YETI. So I decided to fix it as I realized that all these advices about using lubricants simply did not work. Finally I found that the problem is a small gear which rotates around a plastic stud . The gear is too tight around the stud thus preventing the sliders to move freely. Hence the locking in place of the door is not complete and falls back after hitting a bump on the street. I thing the video I tried to make is self explanatory: https://youtu.be/6SLHBXsyNhU

If you have any problems and assuming your build week is between CW 22/2017 to CW 48/2018, mention TPI 2051234/5 as that covers this issue

#983 bought on 28/6/2020 from Wakefield on 133k, been living in tunbridge wells, Kent since now on 137k

As a bored stiff Corona project I wired the fog lights in a 2009 Fabia II up to be used as DRLs. I got a 12V from the blue wire at BCM, XS4, pin T18a/9 (connection 61 in main wiring harness) which runs 12V only when the engine is running. I then connected it to the standard DRL switch in the fuse board. I used a relais to switch the DRL pin from the light switch - T17a/3 - to go onto the fog lights. In order to stop the dashboard front fog warning light to come on with the fog lights as DRLs I soldered a 30SQ045 - 30A 45V - Schottky diode in. This allows a forward current from the light switch to the fog lights and dash warning light but stops the DRL current to go back to the dash warning light. The parts needed are: DRL switch - 5J0 941 503 a relais a Shottky diode 30SQ045 a few spade connectors heat shrink tubing and some wire. Below is a DIY current flow diagram. Now while some cars that use fog lights as DRLs have an E-number stamped on the fog lights, I am using bog standard Fabia II fog lights. In the eyes of a very picky MOT tester this could be a fail, but you can always switch the DRL-fog lights off altogether.

The engines are not run in at the factory before or after going into the car. There is advice on 'Driving in; the new car. (Running in as was always known in English) in the owners manual. Much as it has been for decades. Arse covering advice from Skoda / VW Group.

@parsey83 will most probably call me crazy but my TSI still didn't go over 4k rpm . I'm at 1100 km at the moment. I'll slowly start to have some fun with it now. When I picked up my car they told me there is no official recommendation for running in the engine since this is already done in the factory. I still decided to go slowly and wait a bit to get some millage on the car.

This topic is like opening a tin of worms on forums The car does come with the option to display oil, coolant and gearbox temps simultaneously. I have this permanently on display. Wait until all your temps are up and enjoy the car for what it is in a progressive manner. Keep an eye on all fluids. Enjoy it Manual or dsg?

Pads done every 25K? Are you driving with your left foot on the brake pedal?

Look (on your car) at the temperatures shown for the cat in the two measuring blocks that I logged, 034 and 043. Compare with my numbers. Does the car get used mostly for short journeys? Some engine vibration at idle is normal, but should smooth out with a little more accelerator pedal.

You missed me also , #621 is still with me in guildford , I have owned her since mid 2018. Cheers puddy

Small brakes with very powerful calipers will overheat, so size does matter.

Unless they airfreight the goods then they have to create an Indirect Export Declaration ie a T2 movement as part of a less than container movements ie a multiple parts shipment and compiling all the customs documentation for this has gone from virtual zero to a massive trail of paperwork. was glad I got my tail-fin exported from CZ well before BREXIT and the additional cost over the goods cost was less than £20 I recall. They need a proper EU agent now really as buying these sorts of goods from EU countries has become much more complex and the Fast Parcel Operators, particular some of them, have incredibly demonstrated they were nowhere near ready to so EU to UK shipments and this has resulted in goods delays of day and weeks and large demands for money, extra customs fees, customs duty and import VAT. Might settle down in a few weeks but expect to see extra fees displayed on consignments to the UK as Superskoda cannot just use EU Acquisition and VAT rules and have to obey the customs export and import customs rules.

It's just a newer revision. But still a DQ200 7 speed auto. So the oil and quantities are the same. It's 2 types of oil you need. One for the gearbox and one for the mechatronics.

So, I warmed up the engine (1.2 12-valve 2005, code AZQ) whilst stationary, from an ambient of 0°C over about 12 or 13 minutes. Held revs higher (around 2000) for some periods when I got a bit impatient after 7 or 8 mins. Coolant temp showed 90 after about ten minutes. Highest temperature seen on IR thermometer was 270°C, pointing at manifold next to oxygen sensor and at cat body just below heatshield, same in both locations. Reached that temperature within about 3 mins of start up. Unfortunately, when I look at the IR thermometer, it has a upper range maximum of 270! So that wasn't the best tool for the job. No sign of glowing red anywhere under the heatshield though. I'll try reading some temps with VCDS next time I start it up, I think there are some measuring blocks that can estimate the manicat temp via the resistance of the oxygen sensor heater.

I'm waiting on something to arrive from Czech via GLS at the moment. It's taking a while and I phoned GLS about it last week. The person I spoke to said that a lot of their deliveries to Ireland have been slowed down due to Brexit as they can no longer use the UK landbridge option and are using direct ferries from Northern France to here.

I would interested to know when things turn up (how long in total) and if there's any extra duty/tax you get hit with. I want to order some bits but conscious of potential courier/import tax costs may make goods twice the price given the stories already reported. I see they have changed their name too?

Resurrecting an old thread I know, but... I am very grateful that all of you submit your differing views. If I had only tried one solution I wouldn't have diagnosed my issue. It was only after trying all of the above that my wiper arm fell off and I realised that the issue was a loose bolt.

It was Wendy.

It's normal, either there's a build up of snow on the sensor or the snow is so heavy that the radar signal is getting dissipated.

She drives a Karoq! 'Arctic Murders' More 4 New Series Fridays @ 2100!

Ohh yes - I do like that.

Just been out here, (essential journey, needed some milk etc) where there is 5-7cm snow, and winter tyres really work well. No problems with the hills around here even with 2wd. Using Goodyear Ultragrip 9+

Short answer is yes, there are lots of threads about this. If you put the same type of battery in then all you need to do is update the serial number , but if you change the type of battery (not make but actual type) then you need tell the management system what type battery you have fitted.

Hi friend. Sorry to say that, but you gave so many confusing information. Read faultcode from ecu via OBD and post it! Was your engine running with low oil pressure for a long time? If yes, it can lead to mechanical damage! Anyway tons of failure can cause idle problems such as dirty throttle body, dead ignition coils, stucked, opened EGR, leaky intake manifold etc. And of course idle problems usually comes when the engine is warmed up. Maybe you should take the car back to the service station.

Sounds like either a slightly slipping belt or an overly tight belt putting stress on a pulley.

I had to register at the dealer with my e-mail address and drivers license to get that option enabled. Guess it’s due to responsibility of the car is remotely opened and someone steals something in the car

They were the correct discs and pads... thanks again @D402 No specialist tools needed, but even with the parking brake off it needs to be electronically relaxed for winding in. Forcing it will cause damage. My friend used a high end Bosch diag unit, but obviously Carista would be better for a one off. I know it’s only 14k miles total and not being used as much recently, but I'm still out twice a week for city driving. Inside of the discs were quite bad and pads were almost gone:

measure it ?????

Seen on a french Skoda forum. Not mine :

So that old habit means you don't do it once to check the adjustment, no point in any further interest is there.

Probably ties in with the increase in all their parts prices direct from the supplier.

#261 is up on usedcarsni

But of course

My 2020 diesel SEL has DSG and the drive mode button and using the Individual function I have saved Sport steering (heavier) and Eco for the gearbox so after pressing the start button I select the drive mode and tap Individual. Yes the coasting saves fuel judging by my 27 mile commute yesterday when the 150PS diesel reported an indicated 75.5mpg. Still on my third tank and done more than 2,000 miles at a calculated 61mpg average. Very pleased with the car and the high spec mine came with.

I hope you're not suggesting there's a body in there...

#594 sold

Bit of a maintenance day today. The car has now done nearly 60k miles, mostly non-motorway so not too surprisingly the (original) front discs and pads needed replacing. Pleased to find nice large and easily accessible bolts that hold the calliper carrier on. This car always seems very easy to work on. Not like our other car, a BMW Mini. Getting the calliper carriers off that was a bit of a pain. Anyway, shiny new discs and plump new pads now installed. Then on to the cabin pollen filter, which was black and horrible. Note to self - replace more often as they are cheap. Easy to replace, took just a few minutes. New engine air filter installed although the old one didn’t look very dirty. I think I must have replaced it not that long ago and then forgotten! And finally new spark plugs. The NGK platinum ones were pushing £15 each but I suppose if this sets does another 60k that will probably do for the life of the car. In fact the ones I took out (the original ones) looked pretty indistinguishable from the new ones - apart from the shiny ness! No noticeable electrode wear. Needles to say, the car still runs exactly the same as it did before, don’t know why I bothered! Well, it gave me a virtuous feeling I suppose!

Under heavy use we've seen the filters blocked after as little as 15k miles. The change interval at audi on certain models was 3 years with no mileage mentioned. I saw an S1 grenade it's haldex unit at 50k. It smashed the housing to bits and actually caught fire 🤯

Sold #337 about 12 months ago, I snapped it’s cam belt on a the daily morning commute, I should of replaced it more frequently knowing the extra power it was running (Gtb1756) and the abuse I gave it. Sold it as a non runner for good money although it was worth more in the mods fitted, never mind the se parts. Since bought an octavia vrs estate (kids are on the horizon fingers crossed). Miss the Fabia like an old friend, already hear myself talk about it in a really affectionate and admiring tone. Sold to a fella who sent me a video shortly after of it running, just needed a new cam belt, I’d assumed bent valves and all sorts and therefore not worth the cost to repair. Wish I’d never pressed play on that video! JRJG

I’ve seen you around every now and then! I used to catch more sightings when I worked in Wymbush. But I think we’ve shared car parks in Xscape and... Dunelm weirdly 😅 If Pete still has his that makes at least 3 SE’s in MK - and there’s a completely Stock one in Woburn Sands.

I have number 371 owned for a few years now located Milton Keynes

I had posted a few pages ago but just in case you missed it I bought 944 in March 2017. it was sold to Unit 18 in 2015 I think and I purchased it from them.

Need to correct some things, I DO NOT HAVE 867 so it needs to be removed as not accounted for, I HAVE 837, in devon. but i didnt buy from the original owner in Gloucestershire, it went to wales from a few months, a mate bought it, then i bought off him

Rear door sound insulation and speaker: The fancy 10" android 8.1 headunit i ordered from Joying last year. The headunit came with one of those tape-to-the-window DAB antennas, and i think it looks horrifying to have that sticker antenna in my window. I see several sharkfin style antennas that do DAB, FM and GPS at the same time and im thinking it might be worth it to change my stock FM aerial for one of those?