Leaderboard

Still in love with how it looks after 2 years, and considering the praise i occasionally get from random people in the streets it seems it's not just myself who thinks that. S

So it's tree's time... Did a quick check and I'd missed a few from a custom trees purchase in the shop. So those 100 have been added to this months, thank you @MikeTheThinker We also had a new sponsor join us this month, @EBCBrakesUK so that bumps the tree count up too This month we'll be doing our baseline 2tonnes CO2 So this months tally is a pretty good 325 trees. Thank you to all those who have joined and supported the community this month, these are your trees >> https://ecologi.com/briskoda?tree=60218576ddce91001d9c9bed.

These things can be quite fun on a covered in snow back-yard Unfortunately we only managed a couple of shots before the action cam died (helps to start shooting with more than 10% battery usually... ) but anyway: No idea why it sounds like a modded Impreza at some point everything is stock in terms of exhaust, DV... Probably the R600 intake is to blame.

Only a one year deal. They obviously want to try him out before committing.

Over the last several months I have gratefully used the knowledge of people on this forum to assist me in the buying process here in Cyprus. Finally ordered my car in 11/2020 and got delivery last week on 02/02/2021. Considering that we are in Cyprus and an initial timeframe of 3 months minimum was given to us, this time of having the keys in our hand in around 10 weeks (with COVID prevailing still) is fantastic. One thing that I will appreciate specifically is the assistance that was provided to us by our sales manager in Skoda. Car dealerships in Cyprus are known monsters to care as little as possible about prospective buyers/customers. Mainly because the whole industry is a nexus (one family owns several brands and there is zero competition i.e. no one else on the island will own a dealership of the same brand). On to my experience: MySKoda app: Before I went to collect the car I had setup the dreaded MySkoda app on my S9+. The reviews in Android play store and on every group/forum pointed towards one and only one supposed fact - The app is useless, does not work most times and do not waste your time. But considering that I had nothing to lose I decided to give it a go. To my surprise the installation of the app and initial setup (add a car) was pretty easy and finished in a jiffy. All I needed was the VIN for my car and voila, car added and waiting for activation for which I needed my car and two keys. Delivery day: Went quite smooth. I had a checklist which I had written up and in about an hour's time I had verified all that I wanted to. Car was in great shape and we loved the color "Business Grey". The ad on 18" TRINITY anthracite wheels gave it a super look as the grey in the wheels went well with the overall colour. For those who are interested the car has the following features: Now I still did not believe that the activation process waited by the MySkoda app will go through flawlessly. So in I went to my car, sat down with my two keys and did as the app asked me to. At some point I got a message "synchronizing profile" and you should have been that to see the face of the sales manager. He was almost sure this will not work . That is surely a vote to the confidence that Skoda employees have on their own app. Well the sync finished, app started showing my car and I could use all features immediately (except the features like lock/unlock which require specific activation by the dealer - will get this sorted next week). For those who might be interested I could even change my nickname (multiple times) and it correctly updated in the car each and every time. Initial setup: First thing I did after we completed the delivery was to connect the infotainment using Wireless Android Auto. I must say worked like a charm. Connected to bluetooth, got message on infotainment to use AA, selected it and that is it. Now when I enter the car with my phone AA is connected (did not fail a single time) and I can use all AA apps without any problems (touch wood :)). Next came setting up the home screen (there are two pages) and the favourites pull down menu. This also was pretty straightforward...This is when I faced my first bug of the software although it is pretty minor - When I press the "home' button on the infotainment unit, instead of going to the "first" page of the home screen menu, I land up at the "second" page. Until now have not found any workaround for this. Now the only part of setup which I still want to do is to setup the Canton equalizer. If anyone has ready links to this then will appreciate you sharing. Driving: As we are in the lockdown period, we have not driven much. The car has 120 odd Kms on it, mostly made up of city and bit of highway driving. The drive has been super smooth. Have not faced any lag (had read a lot about this and had even had a look at racechip just to remove the lag) on traffic lights or at round abouts during stop and go situations. Although this might as well be due to the fact that I am keeping the car at low revs (up to 2K) and I am not going to push the engine until at least 1500 Kms. When driving the sound insulation is excellent and I am sure that the acoustic front windows play a hand in this. You just do not hear anything (yes it is a bit exaggerated) from the outside world. At idle and without music playing, you can hear a bit of the engine sound though. Considering that this is our first diesel car and second car that we now bought (First being a Passt 1.4 TSI in 2009) I am very impressed (always thought that the diesel sound will enter the cabin at driving speeds). Music: We have the Canton system. Have not played with the equalizer. But as a start with its factory settings the sound quality is already very good. I like how I can select manually the "center" of the music area through the sound settings. Also the fact that I can select "surround" as an option. I believe given a bit of a tweek the sound quality will only improve. So this is it folks! Wanted to share my initial experience with the car. If I missed a detail that you would like to know more about then feel free to comment and I will chime in where I can. As I grow with it will definitely share more. Also big thank you to everyone on this forum who helped me out during the decision making buying process. I hope I can repay in kind by helping others. If anyone who is shopping around now and has some questions, feel free to ask. I will try and help out if I have the feature in my car. And to everyone who are on the fence - I would say "BUY IT". This is a value for money car in every sense, so as long as you are fine with the dimensions and have decided on 5 vs 7 seats, then I do not see any other better options out there. Safe Driving!!

Fast enough for me... Like AlVal i've owned extremely quick cars in the past so have that T-Shirt... I'll spend the cash on beer and hookers thanks

You mean the seatbelt? That came on the replacement engine, so I figured, it's already worked. Engine plus pallet plus free tyre was only 95kg according to the shipping info, so well adequate. Should've seen what I used to lift the old engine out...

A small selection of photos: Front of car off, ready to extract old engine Replacement bolted in, lots of connecting up still to do at end of Thursday

Last vacant F1 seat has gone Mercedes AMG have signed some guy called Hamilton I think. Quite a surprise that.

ATTENTION - Please take note. Briskoda is a unique forum based on a shared community spirit - one where we expect all contributions to be amicable and respectful. Unfortunately a number of recent posts have fallen short of this requirement so please keep this in mind with any further submissions. Our Site Guidelines have additional information if required. Thank you.

On a brand new car seriously? What a muppet that guy! That bit holds the intake duct in place. It probably won't go anywhere as apart from the two screws there are some clips that keep it in place and there is also nowhere to go even if loose, (you remove it by unscrewing and pushing down to unclip). So it won't do any harm staying like this until you replace it, but you should definitely demand a full replacement at their cost, this is unacceptable.

Here in Australia we've got the strange situation that we've got the Superb Scout with the 200 kW (270 bhp) engine and 7 speed (and GPF) and the Sportline with the 206kW (280bhp) and the 6 speed (and no GPF). Both MY21. I assume there's a stockpile of 206kW/6 speed combo's that they are happy to sell in territories that don't require the latest Euro pollution spec. Not sure of they've still got the valves in the exhaust....

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rryfe9fgak9s7dv/IMG_20210205_163519.jpg?dl=0

Hi All, I have produced a guide on performing a full strip down and repair of the rear wiper motor on an estate car. Should work for hatchback, assuming the gears are not seized too badly. My guide is attached. I want to thank forum member J.R. who inspired my repair. His thread is here: Regards Russ Octavia Estate Rear Wiper Motor.pdf

Gah, you already said it was running in one of your Friday posts. I really shouldn't post straight after a nap

Yep, very pleased with it. I think the dogbone mount is 'code F' though, and am waiting on a new one, probably Wednesday arrival/fit. I think then I'll really be able relax, put my feet up and say to the missus; "There you go, all good for another 100k+ miles... ....FFS don't crash it tomorrow!"

certainly, but it would be interesting, educational, and I know there is a part of him that will want to

All you need is the noise ;-)

Hi there I'm a disgruntled sheff utd fan. It seems weve bought some halfwit from liverpool called brewster. Could you put mo salah to sleep and do us a swap please? I knew from the beginning we'd bought the wrong one. Right. Back on thread.

OK, so can you find a way of charging the battery up to see if that cures the problem? Go for a longer drive than normal (while staying covid-compliant)? Or check the battery voltage?

So I've put my deposit down on a 280ps 4x4 superb in SE L Executive trim with some nice extras like dynamic chassis control, through the dealer approved used car network, bargained the dealer down to £11500 on a 66 plate with 55k miles. Picking it up in a few days. So.. here's the thing, I'm local to both vrs northampton (APR), superchips, and northampton motorsport (revo). APR and revo similarly priced, but revo allows future upgrading to stage2 and onward (not that I ever expect to), and on the revo I can get 10% off if I do both the dsg box and ecu - no such offer on the APR side. It'd be an easy choice if superchips wasn't in the mix, offering £100 off during Feb, meaning I can get their remap at £388 including VAT and they come out and do it on my drive. Would I be a cheapskate choosing the superchips option? it's very hard for me to quantify how much more value I'd get from spending more on the APR or REVO options, which if I'm not mistaken is down to how much time they invest in the development of their maps. How is the end consumer supposed to weigh up how carefully superchips have developed their map and tested it on this car vs how much revo or apr have?!

Also found this on google... So it looks like 225/50/17 94W

I would go with the highest speed capable - I own a Scout - and I use V rated tyres (cos the Scout will waft up to 136mph with a following wind). I think the rule is top speed plus 12mph or something dafy like that. I have V rated tyres for both my summer and winter rubbers - 148/149mph.

Interesting about the the siren back-up battery. I don't recall anyone mentioning this & the early models are well past 6 years old.

Visit your local Skoda dealer...

There is most definitely a very interesting topic on running in on here........somewhere! Hopefully someone will hyperlink it for you.

Thanks all for the replies. I turned fusion on (it was set to detection) and all works perfectly. I now get the pre-loaded speeds from sat nav until I pass a sign that it then reads. Temporary speeds on the motorway stayed on display until I passed the national speed limit sign on exiting the roadworks.

PHEV charging 3.7kW on a 50kW rapid charger? So typical PHEV drivers...... The car isn't rapid charging capable so shouldn't be using that rapid charger! Lucky for you the charger can charge AC and DC at the same time and the cable just about reaches.

Another random thought. As Russia lacks the online services it seems they do not have e sim installed. Now again, if someone could use some underground facilty or mountain top where is no mobile signal to try the USB update? Might be the e sim is preventing some processes.

Satisfying to know it has gone to a good home

If you gained 68m in elevation, but your maximum elevation was 56m, does this mean you started in a bunker, 12m underground? Good average over ten miles Gaz

Sorry, just got Mikes details from the marketplace on here, I haven’t used him but others have got him to successfully source parts. I believe he has a website. Have you tried TPS or a dealer? Found these black Statos wheels from a dealer from Google, would imagine that silver one would be available too. https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/products/skoda-alloy-wheel-stratos-17

It is also a good point for new owners to check whether the bag is physically present in any MIT SILICA tank.

I think a lot of folk forget to treat the leather in their cars - and also forget the gators and handbrakes and gearlevers. That damage is caused by the drying of the leather and the top napping wearing away from constant use......folks.....you need to treat your leather parts of your car.....(I used Autoglym, but other products are definately available).

I know folk may not keep their cars for more than 5 years from when they do the tank change - but it is important to tell the dealer/trader that you sell your car to - that the coolant silica bag has been removed. VW/Skoda's records will still have lifetime coolant in it. The alternative is to ask your local Skoda Dealer or VW Specialist to put a note into your car VIN's details - that coolant will need to be changed after 5 years.

That doesn't look like normal wear and tear... Do you think sun cream or similar has caused it? - I see you're in Australia

I am not sure if it was a main dealer you took it to. If not it needs taking to a Skoda garage as they can use ODIS to do a software reset on the transmission. I would not use any other garages given that it is in warranty.

Thanks for that BATVANVRS. Its just the handle, the gaiter is fine.

this should be the display config adaptations 5F ENG122230-ENG142097-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-ability_switch_nav_maps,OFF ENG122230-ENG122343-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-call_picture,On ENG122230-ENG122341-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-coverart,On ENG122230-ENG122340-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_compression_mode,H264 ENG122230-ENG122344-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_resolution,resolution_3 ENG122230-ENG127006-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming ENG122230-ENG142153-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-dynamic_icon,0 ENG122230-ENG127501-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-fastlist_most,On ENG122230-ENG122338-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_compression_mode,H264 ENG122230-ENG122339-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_resolution,resolution_3 ENG122230-ENG127005-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming ENG122230-ENG122342-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-stationart,On

So an update, luckily it ended up being a loose plug on the alternator preventing the alternator kicking in until the engine reached 1500rpm. I don't know how this has came loose or if someone in a garage might have done it in the past.

If you feel the need for extra lighting then I think an led light bar would be much better, both in looks and performance.

That looks a strong brace.

Changed the bumper strip and front mats. Both from Kopacek (formerly Superskoda). €64 including delivery in one week from Czech Republic! also some random pics of what I’ve done to the car in the 7 months I’ve had it. Love the car! Question, I’m going to paint the brake callipers blue but the wheel hubs (is that the term? 🧐), are showing signs of rust...would a wire brush sort it or do they need painting?? oh another one, should I get an sd card? Is there anything to gain by getting one for the car? I have an iPhone so plug and play is great. I’d appreciate opinions, cheers! ps. Great forum 👍

Well as much as the factory alarm is category 1 with the features listed above, I ended up adding an additional alarm (Clifford 330x3) with exterior shock proof sensor (so if any vehicle or someone hits the car) the Clifford siren will sound along with a duel zone proximity sensor (which if you try the door handles or look through the glass) the Clifford siren will emit a couple of chirps to warn you away (but if you smash the glass or reach inside the interior the Clifford siren will sound along with the factory alarm if the factory interior ultrasonics or factory interior microwave picks you up) It still works along side the factory alarm with door, boot & bonnet protection & I left the interior ultrasonics working on the factory alarm along with the anti-jacking on the factory alarm only! But I also had the horn aux output added to the Clifford alarm so every time the Clifford siren will sound (on alarm only) the horn goes off too which is mega loud & no one will be hanging around especially as I find the factory alarm siren not that loud, it has the right pitch sound but not loud in-terms of the DB. Factory red Led by drivers door still works & flashes but now with a bright blue Led that is clearly visible. The Clifford alarm was purely added for protection & more so peace of mind (tools or even impact/accident/thief's etc) & with the additional features the Clifford alarm has & supports over the factory alarm it definitely was a no-brainer for me, especially as I have acquired certain tools over the years that have sentimental value to me from being passed down (like certain screwdrivers, cutters etc just not made like they was) an investment to protect my livelihood, even though that is facing hard times at the moment along side most of us that are self-employed due to this pandemic but made me think this is even more of a reason to do it as there is potential for crime to rise. Don't get me wrong if they steel the car, then it's gone (that's what insurance is for) but I would prefer to take precautions to protect my vehicle or equipment that might deter or even install a little bit doubt into a thief's mind which might make them think twice & then they come to the conclusion that it just ain't worth the hassle. Well so far so good, no false alarms as the alarm fitter did a fantastic, neat & tidy job, showed me everything I needed to know & he spent time setting it up to how I wanted it along with his knowledge to make sure that the alarm will not give any false alarms so when I hear my alarm it should be for a reason.

Hi Everyone, We (EBC Brakes UK) have paid to join this forum as an alternative way to interact with our customers and potential users and to alleviate any issues you may encounter. We are not here to sell products or to advertise, purely to gather product feedback and assist users with any problems or application questions. Thanks

Yes, its excessive condensation. Take her out for an hour or so (within the 5 miles of your house) and problem should disappear.

Dear all Happy to assist if you have problems updating your maps. In Summary, most MK3's onwards who have a Columbus or Amunsden (with Navigation) system - will have free map updates available to them. 1) Go to https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ 2) Type in your VIN number - you can find that number either on a servicing invoice or more easily on the bottom left hand side of your windscreen. 3) Most folk (unless they have an early MIB1 - 2013->2015) - will have an 16G card - that currently should be enough to store the whole of Europe maps on them. 4) The maps you are looking for are the ECE A1 maps - for those with the smaller capacity SD Card [8GB], you may need the A5 or A7 maps (which is a smaller subset maps) - chose your map areas appropriately. 5) You will need 7z decoder. These are free to download. 6) Put your SD Card into your PC. If you have a Mac; there are cavaats on decompressing files. See the updateportal for details. 7) Delete the files on the SD. You don't need to format it. 8) Take the contents of the folder [if you click into the file, you will find a folder marked MAPS - it is this folder you need to copy to your SD Card]. 9) Wait until competely downloaded. Could take 30-40 mins to complete. 10) Unmount/Eject the SD Card and plug it back into SD Card Slot 1. 11) Boot up MIB system, go to Maps and make sure you can read the maps. Going into Settings [in Nav] and then Version Information - shows you have the latest map info

Definitely the easiest job, but needs to be done with care. Get yourself some rubber surgical gloves b4 starting and plenty of paper towelling to mop up the G13. You will also need a 1l bottle of G13. The following process below is what I did on my VRS to fix the Silica problem (it had a double skinned tank). Check out this video showing the process on a VW Golf (identical under the bonnet): 1) Get a cheap fluid pump....I got one from my local general store for £8. On a cold engine, suck out all of the coolant from the header tank into a secure container (to be disposed of later) 2) Unclip the top hose and bottom hose. Try to catch as much coolant as possible. Leave as much coolant in the pipework as possible. 3) Remove the electrical connector (pull tab out and pull out connector). 4) Unhook the bottom clip where the tank sits. 5) Refit in new tank without the Silica bag 6) Put on the bottom hose (feed) 7) Put on the top hose (return) 8) Put on the electrical connector 9) Fill up the new tank with G13 mix or G12evo to maximum level. 10) Start up car - leave top off for the moment (this will become apparent in a sec) 11) As car starts to warm up, you will find there maybe an airlock at the top of the 'feed' (larger) hose going to the engine (noted if the coolant in the tank doesn't get warm). Gently Squeeze the pipe and tease out the air - there will probably be a large 'bloop' and the level will drop considerably. 12) Put the tank cap back on and let the car get up to temperature. 13) Wait until cooling fans come on and then off....then switch off the engine & let the car cool down. DO NOT TOUCH THE HEADER TANK - HOT COOLANT ALERT!!! 14) Next day, Before you head off, check the level in the header tank again - release the pressure in the tank by opening the cap up. Make sure the coolant level is correct. Be happy you have many 1000's of trouble free motoring in front of you.....enjoy.