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Last week I retrofitted a VC to my Superb 2.0 tdi MY18. Because the info on this subject is scattered all over this and other forums I decided to bundle it into a how-to. First of all a big thank you to RomanB, langers2k, Richie2019 and Camarao69 for the help with coding and with finding the correct parts. Before you start, make sure your car is able to do the retrofit. As I understand it, you will need a Mib 2.5 and also the correct gateway to be able to have a map display in the VC. If the part number of your gateway starts with 3Q0 it should work. Maybe also with other part numbers, but you will have to check. You can check the part number of your gateway with VCDS. What about Amundsen? I have read that with certain types of Amundsen it should also be able to show maps on VC. But coding is a bit different. And, as I don’t have Amundsen, I can’t really tell. I ordered the VC on ali: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001320853346.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 This VC comes with the optical MOST cable you will need for display of maps on the VC. Before you order, send the seller a message and ask for a discount. Also ask for him to declare a lower value (+/- 100 dollar) to customs. I paid around 60 euro import tax based on this value. If you have the CANTON sound system, you will need a Most splitter. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001590588805.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 Or https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33003652246.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dysj90l (about the MOST splitters: I ordered both, but you will only need one of them. The first link looked like the better quality item, but it had 2 male connectors and 1 female. What you need is 1 male and 2 female connectors. The VC came with a spare female connector, so I used this spare connector to convert the splitter into 1 male and 2 female. It’s easy, just mind the arrows on the connector. They depict the data stream direction. The item from the second link is ready to be installed and does not need to changed. However just eyeballing it, it did not look as good as the one in the first link.) Vag audio removal tools: You need 4 pieces. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001502327510.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.61f03aa8VhZ892&algo_pvid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254&algo_expid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254-0&btsid=0bb0624716157231348261767efc60&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ Trim removal tools: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32963954415.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.477d61553u3Dn4&algo_pvid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc&algo_expid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc-0&btsid=0bb0623d16157232258103800e5d6b&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ And a Vas5054a for pairing the keys to the cluster via remote coding. Links to a Vas5054a come and go. They don’t work for long. Look on ali and read the reviews. Disregard complaints about the software as you will not need to install it. Often there are choices in quality. Choose the best one available. Bluetooth is not necessary, I just used a usb cable. And you will also need a windows laptop. I also ordered a screen protector for the mib 2.5 and for the VC. Just to protect them while do the installation: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32931529165.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p and https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001805982326.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p And of course you will also need a VCDS-cable or a similar device. Wait until the parts arrive and, in the meantime, find an online coding service for pairing the keys to new cluster, remove component protection and to set the odometer to the correct setting. I used: Vag retrofit and Coding. Telegram: https://t.me/vagretrofit Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/vagretrofitcoding/ Cost: 75 euro for 2 keys and 100 euro for 3 keys. Maybe there are cheaper/better alternatives, but this worked for me. The VAS 5054a comes with software. You do not have to install this software for use with a online coding service. You will only need to install TeamViewer. Before you start tinkering: Make an autoscan with VCDS and save the log to your computer. This saved my ass, because after the online coding of the VC, my sunroof lost it’s coding. With the autoscan available it was easy to fix. I also made screenshots from every byte of my old cluster, using the long coding helper (example, of just one byte, below) With this, it’s easier to setup the VC. See the service manual how to unclip the various trim parts. There is a certain sequence in releasing the clips. Before I used the online coding service, I installed the MOST cable. It was a pain. The wires behind the Mib unit in the glovebox were too short. So I needed to dismount the entire glovebox to get access.I connected the MOST splitter to the existing MOST cable and the new MOST cable. Removed the Mib headunit and old cluster to pull the new MOST cable in place. If you don’t have CANTON there may be a protective cover over the MOST connector on the Mib. After you have pulled the MOST cable into position, reconnect your Mib headunit. It needs to be connected while the online coding is being done. This it to remove component protection. Also reconnect your old cluster. You will need it connected at the start of online coding. I also tested my audio, just to be sure it was working after the MOST splitter install. A video which gives an idea how to remove the cluster: (the screws are behind the left and right trim parts. Not under the center one) A picture from pulling the cable: After all this you can start with the online coding process. Have all you keys readily available. It took 2 full hours in my case. When you install the VC, make sure to remove the grey protector in the MOST connector on the VC: After the online coding you can start your car, but your dash will light up with faults because of the lack of coding. Coding the cluster: I now took all my screenshots of the long coding from my old cluster to code the VC. Just one note: Leave Byte 0 bit 1 unchecked. It will give an ‘’entry out of range” error message if you try to code it. After you coded everything in, the error messages will disappear. Just take caution with your fuel gauge and make sure it is accurate so you don’t run out of fuel. My fuel gauge tends to read fuller than with the old cluster so I don’t trust it yet and may change the coding on it. Coding 5F (mib): Long coding: Uncheck byte 22 bit 0: Make sure MOST is on (for non CANTON cars) Byte 19 bit 5 Adaptation (5F): For imaging through MOST: - ENG122230-ENG142097-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-ability_switch_nav_maps,OFF - ENG122230-ENG122343-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-call_picture,On - ENG122230-ENG122341-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-coverart,On - ENG122230-ENG122340-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122344-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127006-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG142153-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-dynamic_icon,0 - ENG122230-ENG127501-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-fastlist_most,On - ENG122230-ENG122338-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122339-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127005-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG122342-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-stationart,On For the Virtual Cockpit menu on the MIB: - IDE11524-ENG137043-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45, Activated - IDE11524-ENG137044-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45_msg_bus, Comfort data bus - ENG122227-ENG142087-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142088-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_clamp_15_off, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142089-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_over_threshold_high, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142090-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_standstill, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142091-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_after_disclaimer, Not Activated Now restart the MIB. (hold power button until it reboots) You now have the normal dial VC: If you want to have the carbon look: 17 – instrument, adaptation: - IDE12467-Tubes illustration, Variant 3 - IDE02489-Display depiction, Variant 1 or 3 (can’t remember which one) If you want to change the end value of your speedometer because of reasons: 17 – instrument, adaptation: IDE13094-Tachometer end value. I used setting Variant 1 for 280kmph. Might be different for MPH. Trim Piece I needed I new trim piece which is now on order. As I understood the partnumber you need can be easily obtained. Note the partnumber on the white label of your old trim piece. In my case 3V0 857 053 N77. N77 is the colour code for my trim piece. To obtain the part nr for the new trim piece just add an ‘A’ after 053. So in my case: 3V0 857 053A N77 is the part nr for the new trim piece. There is also the possibility to fit new MFSW buttons with a VIEW button. - 3V0 919 719 E (manual) - 3V0 919 719 F (DSG) - 3V0 919 719 G (manual + heated) - 3V0 919 719 H (DSG + heated) I've been told that DSG versions work in manual cars and that heated versions work without heated wheels. I did not fit these buttons yet so I do not know if these part numbers are fully correct. If there are any omissions or errors please do tell. Also feel free to add more adaptations.

Hi ZJeffryes Some background info. If you have a problem with the clutch hydraulics (master cylinder/pipework/slave cylinder) you can get a situation where the clutch won't disengage fully, called clutch drag. Because the engine is still trying to turn the gears when you attempt to select them, you will find that the gear lever won't go into place, or there will be crunching noises as it goes in. The lever may not disengage when you want it to either. This isn't a gearbox fault, it's a consequence of the clutch fault. The main thing that wears in a clutch is the friction disc. That's basically what is changed when you have a new clutch. However, whilst it's all apart it is normal to also replace the clutch cover plate and the release bearing. The cost of labour (remove gearbox etc) is more than the cost of the parts, so it makes sense to fit a full clutch kit of these 3 parts. The flywheel face which bears on the friction disc should not need attention, unless you have run around a long time with a severely worn and slipping clutch. So a flywheel is not routinely replaced as part of a clutch job. However, modern cars have dual mass flywheels which also have internal vibration absorbing springs and dampers. These can occasionally wear prematurely and make noises whilst you are driving, in which case the flywheel will need replacing. I agree with other posters, check the master cylinder and pipework first, which doesn't need any expensive dismantling of the clutch and gearbox.

It sounds exactly like a failure of the clutch master cylinder, I recently had to replace mine, if there is no fluid loss( which would have triggered the brake warning light) then dont allow them to give you bull that the slave cylinder has gone & they need to remove the gerabox, replace the clutch, DMF etc that they all do before then charging the customer even more for replacing the master cylinder. There is no pedal failure although many may be fed that line, its the master cylinder that fails, if I were a betting man I would say that your Yeti is diesel and one of the higher powered variants, 140 or 170hp and does a lot of urban driving.

I think that counts as a 'swipe right' then? Google that @J.R.

Took my time in finding the one I liked the look of to replace my MIB1 with it's micro screen and ordered one that I'd seen seller/manufacturer recommended around the internet a bit for Mk3 Octy specifically and has been far better than I expected. I don't get the use out of the car to justify spending out on OEM and I like the pretty open ended possibilities that this offers and I get my bigger screen look. Octacore 4GB/64GB model on link below: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000642821453.html A bit of a rushed install as I was at home on standby when I went out to start and phone rang.... All matched up well, connected 2 supplied cables to power the inline antenna amplifier and brought all over towards centre behind screen where all would now plug into back of new unit, just enough and no more to work without stretching on RHD models. Canbus module with it works perfectly and allows full integration into all bits to play with and keep functionality for settings etc, I've retained the factory USB port as is with it an added another to glovebox as I could run 2 lines from it. Factory mic isn't utilised so has 3.5mm mic plug at back and will run one from that up to beside where factory one lives when I get a chance, inbuilt one by reviews says its just too quiet, so not even going to go there. Short clip to show some of features I have gained for £162 from those industrious folk way East. All pics and vid still have screen protector film on so makes it look a little less crisp, but does a good job for my needs and can play with Carista and VAGDPF now on the big screen finally

shouldve been pedalling thirsday but had to be at lidl at 8am for planned specials and get spud to school, so binned it on the basis of going that night... disaster night as spud jr had his 13month vax shots so was off form, up late, woke up middle of the night... so friday am got sacked too. ****ing rain friday and saturday morning. and then... last night... well lets just say i couldnt face a cycle this morning... roll on tomorrow to get back on track 🙄

Hi everyone, Thought I would share some pics of the new car, collected it on Friday and washed it, detailed it and ceramic coated it yesterday. So far I am really happy and very impressed with it.

Yep, that's definitely an Octavia IV

Don't think J.R. will go for that option...

Clutch master cylinder, dont expect Autotechnic to be interested in the correct cheap solution when they can strap you up for a clutch, dmf and possibly gearbox. On two different threads you have recounted two very different historys, one one the title is gearbox failure but you describe clutch problems, on this the title is clutch and flywheel but you speak of juddering and grinding in one gear and becoming stuck in first gear. From reading them both I think its the master cylinder which is the cheapest and easiest job and should IMO be tackled first, it is a known weak component and you will read many threads on here and on other forums that describe exactly the problems that you have and many more where garages have played parts bingo with the customers wallet, several saying they never got to find out what as actually the cause as the garage had to replace everything.

I'm an engineer so I am somewhat technically minded but I'm realtively new to cars not having needed one until recently so although I can point at and name most of the engine bay I can admit trying to find a leak is outisde of my current abilities as I won't know which pipes and hoses are the likely culprits. I shall take it to a garage, thanks for you help

Unfortunately module 09 "Central Electronics" is protected by SFD and without online or offline SFD tokens nothing can be configured. Only one trying to achieve some kind of partnership with VAG group for SFD integration is OBDelevn, currently without any results. Quote from OBDeleven: As an official Volkswagen partner, we can confirm that conversation regarding 2020 vehicle support is in progress and we are waiting for the documentation from Volkswagen AG. We can not commit to a formal release date, as this depends on a third party - Volkswagen AG. As soon as we will get any documentation we will officially inform all our community members. Stay tuned!

i use a puck with my trolley jack - prevents the sills from getting crushed. axle stands r further in, away from the sill. c pics below. rear axle stand position (remove the plastic cover):- front axle stand position (remove plastic cover):-

Collection day has finally come around and I’m super stoked to be a Superb owner at last! I only grabbed a couple of pics as I was hoping it would be light and dry when I got home to take more but it was neither. Here it is on the forecourt It’s a MY2020 Facelift Superb SportLine Plus 2.0 TDI 190 DSG with the following options Exclusive Dragon Green paint Supernova wheels Virtual Pedal Reverse cam with washer Spare wheel Virtual Cockpit All of which put the list price at pennies under £40,000 which is nuts considering what I paid and the paltry 6560 miles it had when I collected it this morning. The 260 mile trip home was fabulous and I look forward to a much quieter build thread compared to my Octy as it has so much spec there is little to do, but I’ll be sorting a few things for sure! Badges are a start and some cool lighting mods too. More soon

As many readers know there are some big issues with the First Edition and Skoda UK seem in no rush to solve our issues. Perhaps the key issue is the fact that our cars are not compliant with with law because of the MPH/KPH Issue. A number if us have pushed our dealers and it seems they can do nothing, it needs a new hardware unit to solve. Skoda know this but seem in no rush to help us. Again, a number off unhappy owners have contacted the Honest John in the hope of putting some pressure on in terms of getting help from a review site. We could do with as many First Edition Owners as possible to contact HJ via email to explain your issues. He appears to be collecting our issues and is in contact to Skoda' head of PR. So please, if you are unhappy with the issues, please send an email to HJ ASAP and help us put pressure on Skoda UK. I know at least two members on this site have got so sick of the car that they have now part exchanged in annoyance. Perhaps they could take the time to email as well to help those of us that are hanging on in the hope Skoda will be stirred into action? Thanks for reading

Hi guys, Im after a pair of the anti-vibration damper parts (1J0 - 698 - 998) for the rear h/brakes, or if anyone has them fitted could you measure the dia of the wheel plus o/all thickness (I think its about dia 40mm x 16mm )??. Thanks

Gotta keep that pointless post count up, been learning from e-roottoot, pretty soon I'm gonna graduate to just repeating what other posters have already said or correcting irrelevant spelling mistakes and typos.

I have always used sticky 3m vhb and never lost a plate yet tbh. There was two sets of uneven holes under the front plate, and the back plates holes were offset!! Some moron obviously fitted them! Yeah so i didnt end up getting any plate surrounds, but im happy with how it looks now anyway

Bluetooth OBD2, Android tablet or phone, and Torque will give coolant temperature - subject to no issues with sender.

@Gax my car shows similar information to yours, device part number but no mention of software version.

How does the car drive? Did you adjust the torsion value correctly using VCDS? If so and it reads zero (the aim) are you sure its a true zero (very hard to achieve) and not an out of limits zero? The value should change when you rev the engine, if it doesn't then its a false zero.

Looks like it being rough when warm but fine when cold confirms your vacuum leak theory. I'll have a go at visually inspecting stuff myself and hope to identify the problem hose. If possible I would like to fix myself as I like projects like this and a car is a new playground for me, garage would be last resort if I can't fix it

No worries. Funnily enough, my settinga does not have a Hardware Information option, on mine it is System Information. I also have nothing labelled as Software Version, on mine I have just Version Number but presume it is the same. So, my details are: Part: 5E3035869 H/W 096 Version Number 0891 I checked the KPH/MPH just now and confirm it still definitely works for me (no satnav on my car however, if that helps). Funnily enough everything worked okay while I was just in the car, Android Auto also connected, and radio playing, yet on the virtual display was the message 'Starting audio' despite the radio being on already. My usual list of randomised issues as reported to HJ is: * The screen stays black and never loads up. * The user profile loading message appears but never moves on. * When trying to use climate control a message appears saying the ignition must be on to use the feature, despite that the engine is actually on. * Pressing climate control buttons will not change the temperature * Text will appear on screen but no icons will load up * Message appears saying Front Assist is not available * Android Auto will not connect despite the fact the screen shows the mobile phone as available * Skoda logo (load screen?) will appear and not go away. Also, some days the Skoda logo will load up when switching on, but most of the time it does not. I also sometimes am getting the Front Assist not working message, but to be honest that has always been on minus temperature days and I figured it is just the sensor unable to operate due to that (even with the windscreen defrosted). I also get the warning about driving in the centre of the lane, but I have that pegged as an over-sensitive system rather than a software issue. It also only happens on rubbish country roads, on which I usually have lane assist disabled or the wheel is pulling you all over the place.

Out of interest what is your Device Part No? Mine and the ones we have correlated, which have the issue is PN:- 5E3035816 which is now superseded by 3 later versions 5E3035816B, C & D. All the later versions do not appear to suffer any of the issues we have been discussing however received this from our supplying dealership, who are most helpful and supportive, in response to them raising it with Skoda Tech' quote: "Unfortunately I can't confirm that a later unit would be supplied from parts with software that would resolve the complaint. As the problem is under investigation I would suggest postponing any repair until more information is received". What is needed is to generate sufficient complaints to motivate Skoda to prioritise the issue supplying a remedy PDQ.

UPDATE Finally got the vibration dampers made and fitted to the new calipers. Swapped out the new assemblies for the original ones and bled the brakes. I took the car out for a quick run, still using existing brake pads and discs the annoying “mooing” has vanished…. Result. All I had to do to the caliper assembly was drill and tap one M6 hole through the static metal plate. There is a clearance of about 2mm between face of neoprene and return spring body. All the metal parts used are stainless steel. I priced the 2 assemblies and it came to £17.69, not the £100 + quoted. Happy Days

Sorry, I should have been more clear and said “I can’t remember the last time I saw anyone else, except perhaps our next-door neighbour, checking tyre pressures on their drive.” I do see a small proportion of drivers checking their tyres at filling stations, rather than before their journey while the tyres are still cold, although I doubt whether many of them fill up weekly. I pump my tyres at home rather than using filling stations, not only so that the tyres are cold, but also because I’m wary of their equipment; if I always use the same gauge, I’ll get consistent results. I consider it’s more important to have the tyre pressures well balanced than at exact pressures. Thanks for showing the Draper pressure gauge. Being a lot newer than the one I’ve been using, it should be more accurate, and it would be convenient to be able to release excess pressure in a controlled, measured way, if necessary. But rather than putting one in each car, and hoping either of my sons would think to use it correctly if changing a tyre on a wet night by a busy road, I still believe I’ll do better to aim to ensure that the spares are already at suitable pressures.

If I rev the engine it's fine. But literally as soon as I move the signal goes. Think it might a grounding issue on the antenna or something. I'm probably just gonna bite the bullet and get a roof mounted DAB/FM antenna. Dab coverage is actually pretty good over here. It's DAB+ actually as we brought a little DAB radio with us that doesn't work here as it only supports DAB and not +.

A while 😂

There is nothing that the dealer will be able to do. They will ask you to take it in and tell you there is a fix on the way! Definately see what they can do but I would also recommend contacting HJ. The more people that do it, the more chance we might get Skoda to act. Not sure about the Travel Mode, didn't even know that existed. I will look but don't recall seeing it.

I bought the Superskoda boot lights for the Octavia I had. When I sold it I took out the lights and put the originals back in..... I've put one of the pair in the Karoq, it fitted perfectly ( the other will be going in the missus's Golf when I get round to it...) I do remember them being expensive ( there are much cheaper LED boot lights advertised on the bay), but the brightness speaks for itself.... You are going to get what you pay for here.... And like me, in a few months you will have forgotten exactly what you did pay....!

If you can tell me how to check this I will try it. I have had an email from HJ asking for more details about me and my car etc. I have sent the additional details and he is now going to submit all of our complaints to Skoda.

Towing circa 1500kg (which I would expect from a regular sized float + horse) should be fine with the 200hp TDI. Just need to be sure that you’re not exceeding the rated tongue load, but that’s more of a local issue here than over there.

Unfortunately that’s not possible! “just as my 2004 Nokia non smartphone is a phone that makes & receives calls & doesn't need an app to do so.”

Buy a Chromecast key (HDMI dongle hockey puck shaped thing) Use your android phone to set it up on your wifi, reasonably straightforward. Turn on laptop and go to YouTube. Find video you like Hit the cast icon on YouTube. A little rectangular outline with a wifi style set of lines in the corner of it and look up at the top right of your laptop screen. You will see the Chromecast key is listed there for casting to. Click on it. Your telly box now mirrors sound and vision on YouTube playing on your laptop. No wires needed.

It's ordered and being made in Germany😎 can't wait...another 2-3 weeks

I think the basic rule is sound; if you're mainly making short, local journeys buy petrol. If you're travelling longer distances regularly, particularly via motorway perhaps, go diesel.

Swapped my wheels from winter to summer set, also fitted turbo inlet pipe and intake hose😎 wheels have 15mm spacers all round... To me thats how they supposed to be from factory...

Tell you what ive noticed , i get more looks and wows in this than i would have in an S3 OR 4 or a top end beemur. Its a great feeling when you put the boot down in sport. It feels as if the car recoils like a spring then goes for it. Only downside coming from a 190 dsg Superb is the fuel economy. Best ive seen so far is 32mpg, hopefully that will improve as ive only done 1200 miles. So , better looking than the GTI , rarer than all the Audis and Beemurs plus all of those A class mercs. Had mine for 7 weeks havent seen another and i like it like that.

I doubt replacing the alternator will improve the oil consumption.

Mines done 58.000. no.894

I've got a Firestick 4K and I have no issues watching catchup from All4, iPlayer etc etc. I found the best VPN for this was Nord.

The former owner left some marks on the rims. We don't like that do we? I'm going to go over it at least one more time.

My axle stand has a V-shaped head, but its only as wide as the chassis points. So no issues. I use this puck on my trolley jack. Works well, and it's not tall to compromise the trolley jack's clearance height.

#812 @bozz_vrs Instagram

I regret to this day PX mine for a mk2 vRs My First Fabia vRs was in Silver the demo car of my old local dealership at Turners of Erlstoke in Wiltshire.

I’m the new Owner of No 41, sat nicely at 37800 miles

Anyone know the whereabouts of no#114? I had it from new from Henry’s Skoda in Glasgow. Would love to find it!

https://mega.nz/folder/6h9gRaLA#Y-HVkemvshkcSn3vWMauOw/folder/u49kwACD new link