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I’m less interested in finding out thanks for the reports of spam keep the community strong folks

This evening's sunset.......

Reject the car asap, something very seriously wrong with the engine. Keep the pictures as evidence. As suggested, call Skoda assist.

picking this up tomorrow

150 dsg diesel average over 12 months 47 mpg that's towing a 1500kg caravan for 1/3 of the time.

8" wide rims are excessive, you might have issues with fouling the arches while steering and it'll aquaplane horribly.

I think that is only try on the Estate Version, I'm not aware of that on a Hatch - certainly my 17 Plate vRS Hatch doesn't have one.

Possibly, but without evidence from VCDS correlating with gauge reading I'd say that's more guesswork than anything else. I took a series of photos just now showing VCDS/gauge comparisons on my Polo (see profile) during the 60-76°C warm-up section, At 60 (61, just missed 60) it's still very obviously not showing 90 on the gauge:

That is a definite indication that water is entering the oil system somehow. Normally given as evidence of head gasket failure. Check you coolant for emulsion as well, coolant should be absolutely clear (But pink/orange). Take to another dealer if you can.

Photo looks like coolant is getting into the oil. There is something seriously wrong with that vehicle if the two can mix, as others have suggested put selling dealer on notice to reject ASAP

It was a 1.4 mpi engine only done 55k miles from new couldn’t give it away so scrap man took it. here’s a pic I took today full TT running gear

Welcome to the forum. Whoever told you that at the dealership is a liar. Was it a Technician or someone else. I would call Skoda Assist and have that car collected and a courtesy car delivered, or just get it back to the Dealership and get a refund.

Start up and drive off immediately. Switch the MFD to the Oil Temperature setting. Drive the car progressively harder and once it hits an oil temperature of 90 deg C, drive it like you stole it.

Thank you so much Carlston, that's really helpful!

Long time lurker... just went through a similar process to the people above, thought to clarify a few points that might be useful to anyone with the same questions/issues The Mk3 Superb comes with 3 official options for "insuring mobility" or however Skoda marketing calls them Tire repair kit with compressor and goo - under the floor there is a moulded polystyrene piece with extra storage space - like in @newbie69's picture. It can be easily removed by pulling out the floor cover (lift and pull towards you) and then pushing the moulded piece up and away from you (towards the backseat). The floor is perfectly flush and level when it's installed but you are operating on the assumption that any issues you might face will be small and fixable with the goo... 4-6 mm max damage size, not too close to the tread edge and that the rim is still in good shape - good for fuel economy and some bonus storage space, bad for peace of mind Standard spare wheel - it's a 205/55 R16 (a plain-jane 91 load-index asymmetrical summer tire) mounted to a 16x6.5 ET41 VW-spec ( 5x112 CB 57.1) steel rim. It comes with the small-diameter tool kit moulding that you can see in the pictures above - if you want just the kit, the Skoda part no. is 3V0 093 860 B - should cost about 60-ish EUR. The kit INCLUDES the floor attachment/fastener so you have all you need in the package. The wheel is in one of the most frequent sizes in Europe so feel free to avoid the dealer markup and buy it from a tire shop or elsewhere online. The tool kit and the upper side of the wheel protrude a little above the horizontal, so you have a 2-3 mm tall "hump" in your load area that slowly becomes visible with usage. The wheel is SIGNIFICANTLY smaller than the standard fitment so it is a temporary fit and you are limited to 50 mph/80 kph. Because of the difference in diameter (671mm for the standard 19in vs 632mm for the 205/55R16) many functions will be unavailable (ACC and the like) and there will be some complaining from the car. For slightly better results, the spare should be fitted - if you've got the patience for it - to the rear (undriven) wheels. Most impacted are the people with a 4x4 transmission because the Haldex diff really doesn't like different tire sizes - so for its sake, please fix the proper wheel quickly and put it back on. This size is meant only for the <200HP cars (actually that would be all but the higher-powered 2.0 TSIs ) because it can't clear the front brake calipers on those - it will clear the rear ones though - so in theory you could still use this on the bigger TSIs but with the caveat that if you blow a front tire you need to mount the spare to the rear and then use the rear tire to replace the blown front tire. Narrow spare wheel - 125/70 R18 comes as standard/option - depending on the market - on the higher-powered 2.0 TSI versions of the Superb and can clear the front brakes on those. It comes with the larger-diameter moulding (the one that looks like it has petals) that you can see in @Ivan8192 's photo above. The petals are meant to fill the space above the narrow wheel ( just 125 mm wide) and support the load-bearing floor so that it doesn't bend/collapse with a heavier load. The wheel is pretty standard for the VAG group and Skoda sells it for a bit under 200 EUR - with the toolkit being another 60-ish on top - the toolkit includes the floor attachment plastic screw thing. The code for the wheel is 3V0 093 860 B and the one for the toolkit (if you only want that one) is 3V0 093 860 C - there is no point though in getting that kit for a non-narrow wheel . The wheel is smaller-diameter than the standard wheels, same as the one above (632 mm) so the same problems apply (no Cruise-control, not so great for the Haldex, etc) - and with it being so narrow, I would feel really uncomfortable with it as a front wheel at high speed - so the same idea with mounting the spare only on the rear and then putting a full-size rear tire on the front applies Unofficial options Full-size wheel - 215/60R16 or 215/55R17 or 235/45R18 or 235/40R19... the plastic trim at the back of the trunk must be partially cut to allow the wheel to fit - what @JR RS did and the load floor will be raised because of the wheel width (by 12-15 mm for the 215 wheels or by 30ish mm for the 235s ). You can then either raise the floor to keep it level - what @Tokebluff did or just ignore it if it's hidden under the variable load floor... OR... Alternate-size wheel - i went a bit weird for this one - 205/65R16 - it is the same diameter as the standard wheel (673mm vs 671mm for the 19in) so there should be no complaints from the car's systems (ACC works, Haldex is happy and all that) and with the 205 width it fits just as the 205/55R16 would under the trunk floor. The only issue is that it must be inserted from the the front back rather that dropped straight down - the side towards the bumper must go in first to clear the trim there. It DOESN'T clear the front brakes on the higher-powered 2.0 TSIs but it can be installed on the rear (same story as above) and the rear tire used on the front - and then you can drive with full speed. Typical install is on a 16x6.5 ET41 5x112 CB57.1 rim with a very slight (~1mm) lift of the load floor - BUT - if you want to have it absolutely flush, you can mount it to a slightly narrower rim (16x6 rim, ET anywhere between 33 and 48, same specs otherwise)

A quick update on this: SGS did come through with replacements in the end. I won't know if the rust plague was a one-off until next Spring.

@RakerObviously it can not affect every vehicle. But you want to find one that has had a 'fix / upgrade', or be prepared to pay to have the upgrade done for peace of mind. That means looking at invoices and maintenance record if there is one, or if you are looking at a noisy car then maybe expecting to have to have work carried out.

I forgot to add a link to the other thread I mentioned above so will just attachment it here - might be useful for someone else in the future.

Yes, there is a nice attachment describing the basic operation of the sensor in another thread from last year (). It does seem that both the oil temp and level are digitally coded into a pulse-width modulated signal sent over the one signal wire..... ...which makes the following very odd indeed... I got some live data from OBD11 of a few variables as the anomaly happened and put it on the graph below. However, this is data from the engine control unit (01) rather than the instrument panel (17) as I couldn't find engine speed as an output option on (17). I assume (01) gets it from (17) via CANBUS or something? Engine rpm scale on the left axis....all others on the right axis Both dropouts in reported oil temp coincide with me putting my foot down - the first drop goes down to a min reading of -35 deg. C , the second drop goes down to about 10 deg. C.....both physically unlikely ....BUT given that both the oil temp and level are coded on the same signal wire it's odd that the oil fill level remains pretty constant - maybe it's being averaged out or doesn't get sampled very often? Could it be the brand new sensor is also dodgy? Unlikely, surely? Ok...I do have an iron but am a bit nervous about destroying something if I try this. Fabia oil temp readings (1).pdf

Let me guess... 🤔 « Sko... what ? BMW, what else !?! » 🙄😂

Apologies! Yeah the Karoq is a manual. I liked the DSG on the yeti for ease but I just found it wouldn’t change gear when I would if I was driving a manual.

Funnily enough, I had the exact same rattle on my 2017 Superb L&K, i bet it was the switchpack then also.

Can't help you with your problem, but you may have helped me. For a few months I have had a slight rattle coming from around the drivers door area. Happens when going over slightly rough roads. Could not pin it down, but after your post I must try the window buttons. Hope we both solve the problem soon, as rattles are bloomin annoying.

"skoda eshop cz" shows a 205/40R17 on a 7Jx17 ET41 as a standard option on the Fabia MK2. https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/hlinikove-disky/c/alloyWheels?q=%3AscoreDesc%3AcarType%3AFabia%2BII%2B%282010-2014%29&text=# So fitting 205/40R17 on 8Jx17 ET30 is similar to adding 10mm wheel spacers to the standard rims as far as the positioning of the centre of the tyre in relation to the bodywork goes. 8J is stretching the 205/40 tyres to the max, so won't give the rims much protection from kerbing damage, and the stretched sidewalls will give quite a hard ride. ET30 does seem a bit extreme, but maybe that's the point. ET35 would be less likely to rub and/or have the tyres stick out past the edge of the bodywork.

Its an option for an Audi A6

Yep will fit perefect, No issue's there.

Now upgraded

I can drive mine all day on low and still not get cold my Cmax I could manage about 5 mins before I wa freezing mines back to the dealer again

Yes, but it's a bit of a faff folding up and down compared with that on my Octy, and it leaves the hole through to the boot, which to my sensitive eye isn't aesthetically pleasing.

Yeah, must be estate only, having replaced both my hatch boot lights with LED versions, they definitely don't double up as a torch

Yes - I would recommend that everyone enables Skoda Surround on their MIB system (enable Virtual Base and Skoda Surround). It can be enabled for Bolaro, Amunsden and Columbus systems. Offically supported on SOP3.x (0363 recommended) and SOP 4.x (0478 recommended). Go and find somebody who had VCDS locally to you or get ODBEleven Pro and get them to enable the following: Skoda Surround settings are: Module 5F, Byte 11 and change to Hex 04 Once enabled, go to Sound (via either Radio or Media), Settings and enable Virtual Base and Skoda Surround - and then stand-back and wonder why Skoda didn't enable it from the off!

Ahh the Japanese spec export cars, that were never sent. Worth a bob or two now.

Perfect thanks very much for the replies

Swap the wheels front to rear, see if that cures it.

you need your PR codes to ensure you get the correct parts as there is quite a lot of options and these would be geunine parts, is that what you want ? Out of interest, why not let the garage doing the work supply them, they would have (or should have) access to motor factors etc etc Or try here https://www.eurocarparts.com/brake-discs

'Normal for new car' sounds like typical dealership BS, though I don't speak from experience (and doubt I ever will). Are you doing a lot of very short journeys, with breaks between each? If not, I think there may be a fault with the crankcase breather system, if not something worse. Monitor coolant level in the expansion tank (mark it when cold and compare regularly when also cold).

I’m fitting it myself and then calibrating the ACC myself as well because I have the gear for it. It’s easy to bolt a bar on yourself if it has tow bar prep as all the wiring to the boot is there, you just need module and wiring to the bar. If you want the folding one, you need the handle and trim to match as well.

New Update, Longlife Cat-Back exhaust, Maxton Design Front Splitter V1, Side Skirts with custom mounting into front mud guards, rear bumper trim painted in Piano gloss black to get rid of that cheap textured plastic look. For more images see My Instagram

Very useful it is too.

Hi, I don't post very often but I thought this was a bit of a milestone, my Yeti just clicked over 100k miles this morning. Its a nearly 8 year old 140BHP diesel that I've owned since new & use for work. Its never let me down & the only parts I've had to fit apart from service items are a set of glowplugs, 2 cv joints & a wheel bearing (the last two in the last couple of weeks). Its not had the emissions fix, been run on supermarket diesel & mainly used on the Isle of Wight. I was thinking of replacing it but like others have said, can't seem to find anything that match's it.

What is it they say? "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". We will look forward to your next post at 200,000 miles.

And Another of my older almost a classic cars, My Mk1 'Sterling' TWR special, with the 2.7 V6 and TWR suspension and bodykit (Only 150 ever made). Got reversed into and written off by a total barsteward.

My not quite a classic yet 'Old Barge' (Gone but not forgotten) Vitesse model, tinkered up to 240bhp at the flywheel.

This is upsetting me......... Mine gets washed every Sunday morning, with a midweek wash of the wheels to clear the brake dust...! And if I'm on earlies in work and there is no one around, a quick swill over outside the office....!

Wee pic from tonight’s walk

Maybe the tyres are out of round from sitting still so long.

Or do what I do. Drive even slower

Which bit was badly corroded - the pressurised body , or the "piston rod"? I can't imagined the hardened, polished rod would corrode if the door was opened from time to time as the seals would fail and leak pressure. No gas strut I've ever had on a vehicle has shown the slightest trace of corrosion. The strut on the rear door of my 1985/86 Suzuki has seen much water, much action and still looks pretty good after 200008k miles. If the corrosion is on the body, why not wipe it down with some WD40 (avoiding the seals), or a touch of smoothrite for cosmetic appearance?