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Meteor grey VRS with aftermarket wheels and painted callipers 😁😍

Years ago I got the "evaporator is leaking" story from a dealer. Good job I didn't go ahead with the horrendously expensive job, it was actually leaking from the compressor shaft seal, found eventually when, after the a few years regassing c/w UV dye, I spotted a stain under the compressor. I doubt they have actually detected a leak in the evaporator. Was there dye in the footwells? Did their probe go haywire when placed in a vent? Or was it a case of they couldn't find a leak in the usual places so it must be the evaporator? No doubt there is no guarantee that changing the evaporator will fix your AC properly. Try and find an AC specialist that has all the correct equipment and training for a second opinion.

Hello Skoda enthusiasts Here is my MY18 Octavia vRS on the day I first laid eyes on it 2 weeks ago 😊

There won't be a fuse for this. The oil pressure switch is connected to the ECU. You need a fault code scan to see what the actual problem is. The oil light being on indicates a problem with oil pressure. And the engine light being on could mean anything. Impossible to tell without diagnostics.

I would put my money on the water pump or housing. Just had mine done, same symptoms - pink water on garage floor, undertray was wet, and coolant needed to be topped up every 1500km's. Very common on the EA888 gen3's which I think is what is in the 245. Not cheap due to the amount of labour involved but can be done DIY with basic tools - plenty of good youtube videos but I didnt fancy it myself.

Due to high number of requests let me make some short summary of units that can be installed in Octavia III cars. I have focused only on MIB2 / MIB2.5 units, to indicate differences between them. Simplified Bolero MY15 unit 5Q0035819 (without DAB) or 5Q0035820 (with DAB) Simplified Bolero MY16 unit 5Q0035819A (without DAB) or 5Q0035820A (with DAB) Simplified Bolero MY17 unit 5Q0035819B (without DAB) or 5Q0035820B (with DAB) Simplified Bolero MY18 unit 5Q0035819C (without DAB) or 5Q0035820C (with DAB) Bolero MY15 unit 5Q0035840 (without DAB) or 5Q0035842 (with DAB) Bolero MY16 unit 5Q0035840A (without DAB) or 5Q0035842A (with DAB) Bolero MY17 unit 5Q0035840B (without DAB) or 5Q0035842B (with DAB) Bolero MY18 unit 5Q0035840C (without DAB) or 5Q0035842C (with DAB) Bolero MY19 unit 565035840 (without DAB) or 565035842 (with DAB) Amundsen MY16 unit 5Q0035864A (without DAB) or 5Q0035874A (with DAB) Amundsen MY17 unit 5Q0035864B (without DAB) or 5Q0035874B (with DAB) Amundsen MY18 unit 5Q0035864C (without DAB) or 5Q0035874C (with DAB) Amundsen MY19 unit 565035864 (without DAB) or 565035874 (with DAB) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035020x (with DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035021x (with DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035043x (without DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035044x (without DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035020x (with DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035021x (with DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035043x (without DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035044x (without DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) All MIB2 units (as well as Columbus MIB1 which is not listed here) work with 800x480 pixels screens, either 6.5 or 8 inch. MY15 unit support MirrorLink only (no support for SmartLink). SImplified Bolero units do not support rear view camera and voice command. Simplified Bolero, Bolero and Amundsen MY15 and MY16 have old style (rotating, monochrome) menu, with only 1 skin having 5 memory buttons in radio and phone menu. They don't support for APP key in 8 inch FL screens. Simplified Bolero, Bolero and Amundsen MY17 have old style (rotating, monochrome) menu, with 2 skins having 5 or 6 memory buttons in radio and phone menu. It may also support Media Command (depending on FEC.SWaP codes installed). Simplified Bolero, Bolero and Amundsen MY18 has both old style (rotating, monochrome) and new style (pictures, color) menu, with 2 skins having 5 or 6 memory buttons in radio and phone menu. It may also support Media Command (depending on FEC. SWaP codes installed). Columbus units have built-in DVD drive and HDD for maps and audio / video files. Only Columbus units can play video files from USB/CD/DVD/SD. Every MIB2 Columbus unit can be reworked into MIB2.5 unit if required. MIB2.5 Columbus requires new 9.2" screen 5E0919606D. Every Columbus unit can drive directly subwoofer and central speaker (although this setup is not officially supported by Skoda). "x" at the end of Columbus units model number is letter A/B/C/D. Can also be missing. It makes no difference, just indicates original SW release family. Every of listed above units can be reworked into Plug&Play version (no need to visit SKODA dealer).

Last week I retrofitted a VC to my Superb 2.0 tdi MY18. Because the info on this subject is scattered all over this and other forums I decided to bundle it into a how-to. First of all a big thank you to RomanB, langers2k, Richie2019 and Camarao69 for the help with coding and with finding the correct parts. Before you start, make sure your car is able to do the retrofit. As I understand it, you will need a Mib 2.5 and also the correct gateway to be able to have a map display in the VC. If the part number of your gateway starts with 3Q0 it should work. Maybe also with other part numbers, but you will have to check. You can check the part number of your gateway with VCDS. What about Amundsen? I have read that with certain types of Amundsen it should also be able to show maps on VC. But coding is a bit different. And, as I don’t have Amundsen, I can’t really tell. I ordered the VC on ali: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001320853346.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 This VC comes with the optical MOST cable you will need for display of maps on the VC. Before you order, send the seller a message and ask for a discount. Also ask for him to declare a lower value (+/- 100 dollar) to customs. I paid around 60 euro import tax based on this value. If you have the CANTON sound system, you will need a Most splitter. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001590588805.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 Or https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33003652246.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dysj90l (about the MOST splitters: I ordered both, but you will only need one of them. The first link looked like the better quality item, but it had 2 male connectors and 1 female. What you need is 1 male and 2 female connectors. The VC came with a spare female connector, so I used this spare connector to convert the splitter into 1 male and 2 female. It’s easy, just mind the arrows on the connector. They depict the data stream direction. The item from the second link is ready to be installed and does not need to changed. However just eyeballing it, it did not look as good as the one in the first link.) Vag audio removal tools: You need 4 pieces. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001502327510.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.61f03aa8VhZ892&algo_pvid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254&algo_expid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254-0&btsid=0bb0624716157231348261767efc60&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ Trim removal tools: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32963954415.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.477d61553u3Dn4&algo_pvid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc&algo_expid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc-0&btsid=0bb0623d16157232258103800e5d6b&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ And a Vas5054a for pairing the keys to the cluster via remote coding. Links to a Vas5054a come and go. They don’t work for long. Look on ali and read the reviews. Disregard complaints about the software as you will not need to install it. Often there are choices in quality. Choose the best one available. Bluetooth is not necessary, I just used a usb cable. And you will also need a windows laptop. I also ordered a screen protector for the mib 2.5 and for the VC. Just to protect them while do the installation: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32931529165.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p and https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001805982326.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p And of course you will also need a VCDS-cable or a similar device. Wait until the parts arrive and, in the meantime, find an online coding service for pairing the keys to new cluster, remove component protection and to set the odometer to the correct setting. I used: Vag retrofit and Coding. Telegram: https://t.me/vagretrofit Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/vagretrofitcoding/ Cost: 75 euro for 2 keys and 100 euro for 3 keys. Maybe there are cheaper/better alternatives, but this worked for me. The VAS 5054a comes with software. You do not have to install this software for use with a online coding service. You will only need to install TeamViewer. Before you start tinkering: Make an autoscan with VCDS and save the log to your computer. This saved my ass, because after the online coding of the VC, my sunroof lost it’s coding. With the autoscan available it was easy to fix. I also made screenshots from every byte of my old cluster, using the long coding helper (example, of just one byte, below) With this, it’s easier to setup the VC. See the service manual how to unclip the various trim parts. There is a certain sequence in releasing the clips. Before I used the online coding service, I installed the MOST cable. It was a pain. The wires behind the Mib unit in the glovebox were too short. So I needed to dismount the entire glovebox to get access.I connected the MOST splitter to the existing MOST cable and the new MOST cable. Removed the Mib headunit and old cluster to pull the new MOST cable in place. If you don’t have CANTON there may be a protective cover over the MOST connector on the Mib. After you have pulled the MOST cable into position, reconnect your Mib headunit. It needs to be connected while the online coding is being done. This it to remove component protection. Also reconnect your old cluster. You will need it connected at the start of online coding. I also tested my audio, just to be sure it was working after the MOST splitter install. A video which gives an idea how to remove the cluster: (the screws are behind the left and right trim parts. Not under the center one) A picture from pulling the cable: After all this you can start with the online coding process. Have all you keys readily available. It took 2 full hours in my case. When you install the VC, make sure to remove the grey protector in the MOST connector on the VC: After the online coding you can start your car, but your dash will light up with faults because of the lack of coding. Coding the cluster: I now took all my screenshots of the long coding from my old cluster to code the VC. Just one note: Leave Byte 0 bit 1 unchecked. It will give an ‘’entry out of range” error message if you try to code it. After you coded everything in, the error messages will disappear. Just take caution with your fuel gauge and make sure it is accurate so you don’t run out of fuel. My fuel gauge tends to read fuller than with the old cluster so I don’t trust it yet and may change the coding on it. Coding 5F (mib): Long coding: Uncheck byte 22 bit 0: Make sure MOST is on (for non CANTON cars) Byte 19 bit 5 Adaptation (5F): For imaging through MOST: - ENG122230-ENG142097-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-ability_switch_nav_maps,OFF - ENG122230-ENG122343-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-call_picture,On - ENG122230-ENG122341-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-coverart,On - ENG122230-ENG122340-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122344-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127006-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG142153-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-dynamic_icon,0 - ENG122230-ENG127501-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-fastlist_most,On - ENG122230-ENG122338-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122339-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127005-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG122342-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-stationart,On For the Virtual Cockpit menu on the MIB: - IDE11524-ENG137043-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45, Activated - IDE11524-ENG137044-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45_msg_bus, Comfort data bus - ENG122227-ENG142087-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142088-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_clamp_15_off, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142089-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_over_threshold_high, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142090-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_standstill, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142091-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_after_disclaimer, Not Activated Now restart the MIB. (hold power button until it reboots) You now have the normal dial VC: If you want to have the carbon look: 17 – instrument, adaptation: - IDE12467-Tubes illustration, Variant 3 - IDE02489-Display depiction, Variant 1 or 3 (can’t remember which one) If you want to change the end value of your speedometer because of reasons: 17 – instrument, adaptation: IDE13094-Tachometer end value. I used setting Variant 1 for 280kmph. Might be different for MPH. Trim Piece I needed I new trim piece which is now on order. As I understood the partnumber you need can be easily obtained. Note the partnumber on the white label of your old trim piece. In my case 3V0 857 053 N77. N77 is the colour code for my trim piece. To obtain the part nr for the new trim piece just add an ‘A’ after 053. So in my case: 3V0 857 053A N77 is the part nr for the new trim piece. There is also the possibility to fit new MFSW buttons with a VIEW button. - 3V0 919 719 E (manual) - 3V0 919 719 F (DSG) - 3V0 919 719 G (manual + heated) - 3V0 919 719 H (DSG + heated) I've been told that DSG versions work in manual cars and that heated versions work without heated wheels. I did not fit these buttons yet so I do not know if these part numbers are fully correct. If there are any omissions or errors please do tell. Also feel free to add more adaptations.

Hi everyone, Here's my first post for my first Skoda! I bought this today to be used as my daily/practical vehicle whilst I'm also on the hunt for something for the occasional track day. I was looking at all kinds of estates to fill this role, but none interested me with the budget I had, and I then came across this black mk1. I've always been a fan of the mk1 vrs my uncle owning a yellow saloon many years ago (probably brand new at the time) and I loved it! This one is a little older now and currently sitting at 114k with plenty of history and invoices, after a test drive and a thorough looking over it's mine! It's not mint, to be expected of the age of course but I have set aside some cash to work through some of its issues and improve things where possible. * Missing rear centre head rest * Slight damage to rear bumper * Slight rust under o/s/r door window rubber * Slight rust to o/s/f wheel arch * New Skoda badges front/rear and also alloys * Cracked in o/s/f indicator lens * Crack in o/s/r brake lamp * Centre console lower ash tray mechanism faulty * Glove box lid is marked and scratched * Cup holder by hand brake permanently open and won't close * Needs new floor mats urgently, to try and keep the grey carpet clean... * Due an interim service * Needs new wipers front and rear * Needs a set of decent halogen bulbs (nightbreakers) * Vibration through steering wheel under hard braking (discs and pads) * 16" wheels fitted thinking the 17" wheels would look better? * In urgent need of machine polishing and proper detailing session * Finally will look into some basic modifications to eek out a little more performance, sound and handling Any help or advice would be most appreciated, Cheers Rob.

Picking this up on Wednesday.. More tidying than a project, this would be a 1Z5, mk2 face-lift??

Have you checked the fuses? On my MY21 car, fuse 16 guards the USB ports, diagnostic connector and phone box, but it will probably be a different one on your car. But if you look in the manual to see if any other functions are linked to the same fuse and then check whether they are faulty too, I'd try replacing that fuse?? Chris

PM

After you change an adjustable component in the suspension, you need to check the suspension geometry. This is a specialist job to get right. Look for a garage or fast fit place near you that has a Hunter rig.

Thank you

It's a sensor, not a switch, but yes, there's a valve under it.

Lovely sunset this evening.........

I have also new wing bars and mounts, and i can say that is wonderful silence even when i have bike on. As i have sunroof still i can not belive how silent it is supose to my old Kia Sportage...

I was quoted £180 today which is why I just signed up to this forum

Hi guys. I have to say, I've had to say goodbye to my Mk1 L&K. After over 7 years of ownership, it was time to move on, especially after being tucked up by a national franchise which then tried to sue me after I left a 1 star review on Trustpilot.....Anywaaay, that's another story. I'll still be on the forum as my wife has her Mk2 which she spends no money on so there are problems to fix. You'll all be saddened to learn I replaced my Octy with a Volvo. My excuse was I needed a car but couldn't find an Octy with the spec I wanted at that time. It did take me a year of looking to find my Mk1 in the 1st place y'know. Anyway that's that. Take care chaps. Till we meet again

This is an interesting read about the cam chain on the 1.2. https://1200cctsiengine.wordpress.com/other-1-2-tsi-users-experience/

See if you can push your budget out to a ODBEleven Pro - it supports your car and you can get proper diagnostics instead of just a generic code reader.

I'll keep a look out for the scuttle panel, and pollen filter on my search for parts at the breakers Should be going for a trip soon. If I find some parts in very good condition, I'll pick them up for you.

Someone else owns it now, a guy called Jamie, just trying to find it... (edit: Found ) (Edit 2 - He's already sold it to someone else now) - Craig started to break it, and sold a fair bit of it. I took his Miltek Sportcat downpipe.

When you changed to battery, did you get recoding done. It'll probably be ok but it's recommended to tell the car a new battery has been installed in software so it can charge it appropriately.

Luckypants; I have discovered that by turning the left hand silver coloured wheel on the steering wheel, the volume can be increased and it then remembers that setting for the next call. Pity that information didn't make the Handbook !!!

Try turning the front roof lights to the off position (O) it may disable all roof lights including the rear as it does in my Superb iirc. A deeply discharged battery can often be rescued by recharging immediately with an external charger provided not too much time (days) have passed, and the battery was previously in fairly good condition.

There are few Lincolnshire folk on here. I'm in Gainsborough but often in Lincoln. I'll give you a wave if I spot you.

Take the bulbs out.

Chain: camshaft timing chain; timing case; D - 24.10.2011... - Yeti(YET) [EUROPA 2013 year] (7zap.com)

Here is one of the first threads on the subject with a members with the same vehicle as yours or later builds. Some got a sticker in the engine compartment and some did not. You have no GPF and no need to use VW 508 00 / 509 00. It is not back applicable / compatible. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/452892-oil-type-in-14-tsi-4x4 See @silver1011's posts. also @xmanwho explains. Loads of threads on VW 508 / 509 on Briskoda since 2018. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/448200-vw-508-00-oil 3 years on and there is still doubt over cars built 4 years ago.

@EnterName ^^^ That is because that is The Manufacturers Recommended Oil for your vehicle for Variable / Flexible Servicing, and because it is what they have for servicing. You have a 2019 vehicle with WLTP Certification.

At least I think it is. 3 years is the warranty on Octavia's isn't it?

It will be getting serviced every year, I dont believe in long life servicing, its purely a selling point for fleet customers, its no good for the engine

Congrats @Paulie-vRS and nice to see another Aussie here too.

purger (French) = to bleed, to purge a system of air. Replacing the brake fluid would be une vidange from the verb vider meaning to empty.

Ah that's a pain, in which case the likelihood of fitting an aftermarket stick in minimal

Interestingly, I just received my renewed courtesy rental agreement but this time, it is not for a full month again, so they must be confident that the fix will be released in the 2.5 weeks.

Thank you varaderoguy!

Have a look at this for compatability http://www.stilusosutazas.hu/custom/stilusosutazas/image/data/product/csomagtartok/Thule_Guide_2017.pdf I would probably guess that if Thule give another part number to fit the new car then the 753 won’t work. I certainly wouldn’t risk it for a few quid, might have insurance implications. Especially if you’re carrying expensive stuff on the top like bikes or boats. Any load flinging itself off at speed could be fatal though which doesn’t warrant the risk. There does seem to be an issue with stock levels at the moment with Thule stuff - brexit/coronavirus related as usual I would have thought. Normally I would say pick up the spares you need on eBay but it seems the prices are high at the moment on there probably because of limited new stock.

This is what I have on mine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383724471835

Not threaded. Its got a little clip on it that keeps it tight to the gearstick itself. Its also attached to the leather boot. Funny I think the one in my cars too high.

Good luck!

Not a lot of difference between the before (Top) and after (Bottom). However, its definately a lot nicer to drive. Its cornering much flatter and feels a lot more responsive to drive. I took it on some dirt too, and it definately seemed to handle itself better there also. As I said in the last post I'll have to get shorter droplinks. Otherwise i'm considering these coilovers a win.

That’s another years contract for mr Bottas😀

Does the Superb also include DCC? I wouldn’t have another without it. Had some PSA experience - would say that the Superb has a much more solid feel to it, plus the DSG far nicer than the PSA auto box (if you were wanting auto there). I find the Superb is fine in towns. It doesn’t feel like a massive car to drive, there are plenty of “executive” cars that are wider. Length isn’t excessive for normal parking spaces either. I don’t have a rear camera, just the all-round sensors. Never found it a problem, just make sure I look up the space to see what is there before reversing into it. But – from the posts on the 280/272 thread – are you bothered about the eye-watering consumption you’re going to get if all you are doing is town school runs? Is a VRS Octy just as fuel hungry? If not, you may want to factor that into your monthly cost. (p.s. I would love to change to a 280/272 if I had the opportunity!)

Another vote for the Superb having come from a mk4 Octy that I rejected. I have the TSI 190 SportLine, more than enough get up and go. Mine was an exe Skoda UK car with 1300 on the clock. After all the discounts various parties gave me, it came out as £9 more a month than the mk4 etec. Very recently went down West Country, great drive and returned in the mid 40’s. Wasn’t hanging around but not driving silly as the kid was in the car. Was very happy with how it got down the road.

Fortunately because I drive a lot for my job, I have a man shed (an old BMW) that takes the brunt of the miles (it will cross 225,000 miles today). It also means I don't have to rush and get a car right now, I can take a little time to find the car I want. The claim has been approved, we just have a difference of opinion on the value.

Applied sound deadening to the rear seat deck, boot floor and rear wheel arches. A lot of work but thankfully the results were worth the effort! The Scorpion resonated system sounds great, but when I went to stage 2 and added the downpipe (with sports cat) I started experiencing some resonance and sound pressure from the exhaust in the cabin at motorway speeds, around 2,500rpm. This has now been drastically reduced, as has general road noise and vibration. The downside is that I’ve added around 10kg of weight to the car, but I can now enjoy the exhaust tone and intake noise again - at one point I was considering returning to the stock system Some measurements I took with the Decibel X app show how effective the sound proofing’s been even at idle: Before Cold start 70dB Cold idle 67dB Warm idle 60dB After Cold start 64dB Cold idle 60dB Warm idle 55dB I used a layer of Noico 80mil sound deadening mats: https://www.ebay.co.uk/.../Noico-80-mil-36.../402289973761 Followed by a layer of Noico 150mil sound proofing sheets: https://www.ebay.co.uk/.../Noico-RED-150-mil.../402677036211

Hi, looks nice. What's the grip like in normal 10 to 2 hand position - do you need driving gloves for reasonable grip?

That is good news and basically what happened with my false claim. The insurance company (AA) sent a letter asking for more details to the claimant's insurance company. As they had not heard anything back after a set period they closed the claim with no impact on my NCD of claims record.

Sorted. Well hopefully. Great customer service from Aviva. The claim was still open but the claimant had apparently never come back with any evidence. So NCB will be reinstated and renewal go ahead.