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My new 2017 Superb 206TSI 4x4 fully optioned. previous owner installed Revo stage1. Done some work with the lighting and a debadge. Applied Gyeon Quartz coat.

Repainted whole car, stock Laser White(LF9F) replaced by Audi's Ibis White(LY9C) dead door "chrome" repainted to glare black new emblems 32D 853 621 A Ali — 90mm ABS Emblem for Škoda had huge count of reasons -> and the last drop came from my daughter, accident on driving lesson. i had option brake by handbrake, but i wrongly tried to move steering wheel, it were under strongest control

Got a shot on the front cover of a mag! Not quite Rankin yet, though I’m chuffed

i've been running the Start-stop memory module in my Superb for more than a year now - its been brilliant. it always remembers, on restart, the last state i left the start-stop in, and i can always hit the start-stop button to reactivate when i know i'll b stopped at the lights for a while. no need to "trick" the car by altering voltages with VCDS/OBDEleven.

Now had my Karoq for four months. No rattles, no squeaks and brilliant to drive. Had a stiff boot door when hot weather, Lithium spray on hinges, Silicone spray on the struts sorted. Juddering wipers, cleaned the windscreen treated with rain x, cleaned the wipers with bath cleaner treated with rain x, sorted. Dash cam, didn't want to use the 12v socket ( live all the time) bought a mini usb to usb cable and a usb to usb c adapter, works off the ignition perfect. Really pleased with my car, after ten Hondas the Skoda has impressed me! Minor niggles but easily sorted. As it stands no regrets buying my 21 plate Karoq.

I'd say it's more than just the pure book figure of of the KW output. I have zeros fears joing the Autobahn with "just" 90kw. Even when it's been fully loaded with 3 adults, a dog, a boot full and 3 bikes on the tow bar. But then a decent 200nm of torque between 1500 and 4000 rpm and a DSG gearbox helps get effortlessly and safely up to speed.

Got my freshly refurbished 17" spiders back, and had them fitted with some 225/45/17 Michelin PS4's. I'm really pleased with how they've turned out! Looks much more purposeful in my opinion, just needs a slight drop in ride height and maybe some spacers to get the stance perfect!

Our local club went over to Meguiars at Daventry a few years back and although they didn't charge for the visit or demo they obviously expected sales from it and weren't giving any products away, or offers IIRC. Autoglym many years back wanted an association or to sponsor our national club but it was never followed up. At the NEC international classic car shows for a few years our stand was next to first Autogly, and then Meguiars national concours completion stand and on set up day I saw a car being rolled off a trailer with bubble wrap. I was told you'd never start some of the cars as the fixings were all lined up for cosmetics so might weep fluids, I don't know if that was true but could imagine it as even at outdoor shows the inside of tyre treads were polished. This was all before "detailing" was big. Recently the club has been offered a few places with Xpert60 car cleaning products (I've never heard of them but I'm not into such) for some training and tour of their manufacturing place, usually not open to public but at a reasonable donation to charity, IIRC it must have been in the late 1980s as IIRC it was on my white Skoda Estelle 2 130 (5-speed) I once put four different polishes on the four doors to see if I could tell if there was any difference. IIRC Autoglym, something like a (£2 tin) Turtlewax and a couple of others one was Raindance IIRC. I couldn't see or feel any difference and I can't remember one lasting more than the others. So by that the cheapest (£2 tin) Turtlewax was best value, and easiest to use, of course there's more to it than my basic test.. I used to spend two days cleaning and polishing a car, not detailing then, or to even local-Sunday-village-show standards but wheels off, seats out sort of thing, on acquiring a used car or before selling - those days are long gone! I now use the carnauba wash 'n' wax type products, when I can be bothered which isn't often as the cars are outside 365/6.

.What @PetrolDave wrote is not entirely truth. The way described will not allow you to use any features that are not supported currently, e.g. SmartLink. To have new features enabled you must have MIB2 unit hacked. If you are intrested in getting such unit, in P&P version, pls contact me on PM.

I don't know if Autoglym make their own gel or not. It used to be green now it's clear and smells like peardrops(?). Decades back I got a 5 litres of Autoglym engine cleaner, ten times concentrate water it down so 50 litres, I gave loads away and now I'm just about running out. I used to know someone who bought a Autoglym wagon franchise, he made so much money on it he got a second wagon and two people to sell the stuff whilst he played golf. I don't know if that's still the case now but the prices are still very high. I went to a (free) demo a wagon seller was doing for a local car club (in the pub car park of course) and after he offered to sell at discount and boy were they good deals and he was still happy with the money he took. This was well before the hobby of polishing and detailing took off so much, shows the profit.

I also use the (Autoglym) bumper gel on rubber seals and the metal wiper arms with an inch (or so) cube of clean old sponge, it gives a better finish but doesn't last long enough.

Pretty much any remap is gonna invalidate your warranty! If you’re that desperate for more power maybe look at a removable tuning box? You would need to take it completely off before going anywhere near the dealers though but it’s probably less traceable for them than a remap which would be very obvious when they plug in to the diagnostic port.

^^^ Best plan. I usually give wipers arms a rub over with Back to Black or what ever product i am using when in full 'Kerbside Auto's' mode. (I was a professional Industrial then a car sprayer.) As to the wiper springs, they might get a little petroleum jelly touch on them while i am doing the same to the battery terminals. Harks back to what was a common practice when i served my time as a Motor vehicle engineer. PJ was always available for when bending customers over.

I wash mine weekly and keep a fresh coat of wax on it usually. I've used bumper gel on the rear wiper and it worked great as its plastic. Might just give the front wipers a go of meguiars ultimate compound tonight.

I don't know where @e-Roottoot get his dates from, but I can assure you cars were being built in Dec 2011 with the old engine block (3.6l oil capacity) and chain. As I got in an Octavia build date early Dec. 2011 Other dates I have seen for engine/chain production changeover have been Nov 2011. Cars will still have been fitted with the old engine until their production stock of engines was exhausted. My engine started rattling on cold starts at 2 years old. Needed the upgrade kit fitted before 4 years old. If the original factory fitted spark plug leads are plain and do not have the corrugated marten protection trunking, it is the old engine.

Yes as they're painted so you can use whatever polish you use on the painted body but if they're dull you could use something like a T-Cut style product that is a slightly more abrasive product (many liquid cream polishes are mildly abrasive). Take care with T-Cut style product not to over do it otherwise you're taking too much paint of and/or they might get duller. After you'd need to use your standard polish or wax. Always use the mildest cleaner or polish you can, certainly to start with and see what the result is before moving on to slightly more abrasive. Black always stands out more on the car, paint, seals, tyres, just cleaning them, and the lights and number plates, and perhaps the windows can make the whole car look cleaner and you've not touched the bodywork. I often clean only the safety items, the lights and reflective number plates, then sometimes also the windows and wiper elements and people think I've cleaned the car when the bodywork and wheels are still dirty. I clean the bodywork three or four times a year and then with great reluctance.

For all the years the issue has come up with the wipers on Mk2 Fabia it is only some, not all and it can be one wiper and not both. No idea about the actual alloy of the wipers that do have the aluminium type corrosion rather than rust. Test them with a magnet. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/369788-rusty-wiper-arms .

https://www.ctek.com/fr/chargeur-de-batteries-12v-24v

Up to date software and related stuff is reserved for genuine customers of Ross Tech. If you bought your software and cable from elsewhere you should ask the person who took your money for technical support.

It becomes a pre and post winter exercise if you want them looking nice.

It is, just reflow all the pads where the multiplug connectors attach to the board.

My mate that was an Autoglym rep swore by the Bug Off 'Active Insect remover' stuff as their best product to use for cleaning anything. But then he maybe had a shed full of it. For getting big dubs / road grime off without messing about this is the proper stuff. I have had years of expensive polishes and waxes and now i just have Careplan stuff in bulk.

Yes it's plug and play.

Perfect I will check polarity and switch them round. I will then see how they go and if they still play up I will then check what the difference between the incandescent and leds and possibly fit a resistor. I work with LEDS most days and as they are working in the door I automatically thought they polarity was correct. I think these Canbus LEDS have multi directional polarity but work better in the correct direction.

@mrgf I never look at or touch terminals on new cars with covers and leave jump starting them to others. With my old cars or motorbikes they still get a little clean with a wire brush and smeared with the Vasoline i have on my finger after giving the wiper blades a bit of a moisturising, and the springs a fondle. (The wiper blades then get cleaned off before going back on the screen.)

e-Roottoot, as you mentioned being an (Ex) In the auto trade, where do you stand personally, on the battery terminal PJ issue? I have known of applying either that or proper branded terminal protecting substances, ever since starting off on my driving career, back in the late 70's but when I purchased the Skud, The instructions/service schedule says "NO"! Leave the terminals clean and bare, basically. I wondered why, as this seems to flow against the current, so to speak but obviously, when in warranty, one does as requested. That said, a good, clean, well charged and firmly connected battery perhaps does not need the attention.

Morning all, 1) Alex 2) Octavia VRS Challenge (Mk3) 3) White with black badges and a Maxton spoiler (was there when I purchased) 4) No engine Mods yet - but a retrofitted space saver and some Thule Bars with Kamei Delphin box for camping trips. Cheers

@sepulchrave Your error might be assuming all are the same everywhere. Not even all Main Dealerships are the same. There are owners and managers & Techs, Fitters, Mechanics around that do give a monkeys rather than just being cheeky money grabbing grease monkeys and do a proper job for fair money charged.

I had exactly the same problem with my 2016 model and was quoted £730 to repair. I decided not to go ahead as it seemed to have no effect on the car other than an annoying message. With more use of the car the messages started coming less often and now, according to my daughter who now has the car, the messages have gone away completely. Basically it is a microswitch that gets stuck and the less you use the car the more likely the message will appear. Move the gear stick as much as possible and I think the message will go away or alternatively simply ignore it.

My car lives, I must be the luckiest person. The chain jumped 3 teeth. No damage just put on new chain and running sweet as a nut.

Yep got it - I can see now where you mean - I was thinking too far north but it's ages since I've been up there.

The aforementioned garage, who stated it needed replacing, operated purely on sound. When I spoke to the other garages and Skoda UK, who took my car details, they confirmed it didn't need replacing on my car. But that little gem of a detail regarding 18JUN2011 is good to know.

That's helpful. I've had an airbag warning light on and off for a while too. I had it done a couple of times and the guy said it was water in a joint in the drivers side footwell. Weirdly though it was on for months then went out a week or so before this new problem started. Certainly worth taking a look. Thanks for the suggestion

At 46 minutes the car will start to smoke and catch fire

And in some markets, e.g. Australia, Travel Assist in not offered. My car has everything you can get but there is no Travel Assist. The Lane Assist stuff gives you a nudge of you stray across the lane markings but it won't automatically steer you down the middle of the lane. The button on the wheel brings up the menu for all assistance systems - not specifically Travel Assist.

Done well to find them, have yet to come across a set close to me from a 5 door to go in mine. 😁

Dyno'd the old girl post tune.. TVS Engineering Stage 2+ (aka Stage 1 ie no hardware upgrades)

Had my 67 Auto with DSG, Sportline for about 3 weeks now. Moon White, Glass Sunroof, Front and rear sensors, Canton Sound System.

Meteor grey VRS with aftermarket wheels and painted callipers 😁😍

New wheels for my steel grey superb, love these new wheels

It was a problem back early on with turbos, decades back now. As to pulling off a UK Motorway even if you were fully loaded and doing 30 MPH over the speed limit and your engine is super toasty, coolant and oil and you stop dead at a service area the engine will be taking care of its self. Coolant circulates, fans suck and blow and all is well with the world. No need to open the bonnet and blow cold air at it. eg F1.

Here's mine on the day I picked it up (last Monday), with the car it replaced in the background. The observant among you might be able to tell what colour I like...

Just need to cable tie wiring neat, bit its all there now. Heater plumbed in inside and through bulkhead. Just need to split a hose to allow it to flow through heater.

Good progress with the loom Phil, I must admit I hate wiring jobs, so fair play to you!

Started to put the wiring loom back in today. Fuse/relay panel back in, pedals and bulkhead wires connected. Steering rack back in.

Its from the newer Polo Matt. This beam was actually from a drum braked car, but still has the carrier on it. From a 2012ish Polo.

Some pics of the hubs. Fitted new bearings last night.

Spare set of hubs cleaned up and painted. cant find painted pics

Alot of chopping, adding, shortening etc

Decided to do a bit more weight saving at the begining of lockdown. Other than going to work i had nothing to do.. so i removed every wire i didnt need from the loom.